Lmfao probably because I got them from Home Depot. So it's more of a home owner store rather than auto. Know what I mean ? $20 so I like it. The rack was $500. And consider the OEM inner that's a steal
koltlt 97 sr5 build thread
- Thread starter kolelt
- Start date
Lmfao probably because I got them from Home Depot. So it's more of a home owner store rather than auto. Know what I mean ? $20 so I like it. The rack was $500. And consider the OEM inner that's a steal
I got it so it will be easier to remove the lines from rack and pinion. Plus, a man can never have enough tools.
MStudt
official vendor
Flare nut wrenches are meant to be used line fittings. Since most fitting are softer material you use a flare wrench since it technically grabs on 5 of the 6 sides to reduce rounding.
infamousRNR
Senior Member
Cool stuff going on here dude! Keep up the sick mods!!
Thanks bud
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Yes! That's what I wanted to hear. Cool; that makes great sense [emoji1360] Maybe more useful on brake line and bleeder valves than anything else! I need to get a set of those.
Yup. It's basically a wrench used on a line.
took another trip to PA. Even though it wasn't off roading. It was still relaxing and awesome day. So why not share it?
Entering PA, i snapped a photo of Delaware River.
So after going to New Hope Rices Flea Market, which was big disappointment. We went to Peddler's Village. About 10 mins away. Beautiful village, cool little shops. And some awesome restaurants. We ate at the Titos Handmade Vodka. Some good ass burgers!
Got some beer at the village.
Then we went onto New Hope & Ivyland Railroad. Which was relaxing and some nice landscape to look at.
Entering PA, i snapped a photo of Delaware River.
So after going to New Hope Rices Flea Market, which was big disappointment. We went to Peddler's Village. About 10 mins away. Beautiful village, cool little shops. And some awesome restaurants. We ate at the Titos Handmade Vodka. Some good ass burgers!
Got some beer at the village.
Then we went onto New Hope & Ivyland Railroad. Which was relaxing and some nice landscape to look at.
So I started tearing the front end. Replacing the rack and pinion and front LCA bushings along with outer tie rods. So, lets start from the begging. Everything went smoothly, till the last fitting would not budge. Of course, last nut and it caused me problems. The pressure fitting was rusted to the line and when i went to loosen it. The whole rubber line would twist and the fitting stayed in place. After a lot of cursing I finally made it happen.
Holding the line with pipe wrench.
Then I got the LCA out. First one was the driver side. The front driver side cam bolt out easily. The back one i had to hammer it out. I used a socket with extension on it to hammer the sleeve out of the bushing.
First bushing came out perfectly, with the metal sleeve. I wish i could say the same about the other bushing lol!! FML
I used heat, and a bottle jack.
Had to cut the sleeve, and i re used the old bushing to push out the old sleeve. Got to work with what you have
Now, the passenger side. The passenger front cam bolts came out easily. But of course, the the rear cam bolt. The LAST THING THAT WAS HOLDING THE LCA IN would not budge. I ended up cutting of the cam sleeve. The metal is super strong and i went through few blades.
How ever, i ended up removing the bolt, and it was so badly seized that i broke the sleeve.
So, i had bought 2 used cam bolts. For like $20. Which are OEM but were used. I couldn't justify paying a arm and leg for some bolts from the dealer.
Tomorrow ill be installing my OEM rack and pinion, and hopefully everything will good and ready for wheel alignment
Holding the line with pipe wrench.
Then I got the LCA out. First one was the driver side. The front driver side cam bolt out easily. The back one i had to hammer it out. I used a socket with extension on it to hammer the sleeve out of the bushing.
First bushing came out perfectly, with the metal sleeve. I wish i could say the same about the other bushing lol!! FML
I used heat, and a bottle jack.
Had to cut the sleeve, and i re used the old bushing to push out the old sleeve. Got to work with what you have
Now, the passenger side. The passenger front cam bolts came out easily. But of course, the the rear cam bolt. The LAST THING THAT WAS HOLDING THE LCA IN would not budge. I ended up cutting of the cam sleeve. The metal is super strong and i went through few blades.
How ever, i ended up removing the bolt, and it was so badly seized that i broke the sleeve.
So, i had bought 2 used cam bolts. For like $20. Which are OEM but were used. I couldn't justify paying a arm and leg for some bolts from the dealer.
Tomorrow ill be installing my OEM rack and pinion, and hopefully everything will good and ready for wheel alignment
So i had to order one new oem lbj, because silly me. When i was strapping the front suspension I pinched the LBJ and a lot of the grease came out. The lbj is oem and had less then 10k on it ):. I'll end up saving it, and keeping it as a spare lbj. In case i need one on the trail, ill have a oem lbj that will get me home.
Another thing, is I could not get the rag joint of the old rack and pinion. It was so badly seized! Should of known. The rack and pinion seems to be original toyota, which is 200k plus!!!. So I went to the dealer and order the "rag join" or whatever you call it, and the piece that slides onto the steering column for $100
I know its hard to see, but the I ordered everything in the little box with the part numbers #45219 and #45230. So everything in that square box for $100.
Another thing, is I could not get the rag joint of the old rack and pinion. It was so badly seized! Should of known. The rack and pinion seems to be original toyota, which is 200k plus!!!. So I went to the dealer and order the "rag join" or whatever you call it, and the piece that slides onto the steering column for $100
I know its hard to see, but the I ordered everything in the little box with the part numbers #45219 and #45230. So everything in that square box for $100.
picked up a set of TRED recovery pads from ebay for $140 shipped!!!! every where else they go $180. To me thats a steal! Only down side was i could not choose my own color. no big deal.
Thus completing my 4 set!
Picked up this 5 gallon water tank at dicks. for ... $20. If you ask em, way cheaper then rotopax!! fill it up with clean drinkable water and you have enough to brush your teeth, rinse your hands/face and drink water!
Then i bot a weber grill for $60
next thing will be a cooler, and tent
fourfive
Senior Member
exactly what would you like to see ?
Over the weekend i installed the 167 hilux snorkel. There are a lot of photos people with cbi ditch brackets and the snorkel installed. I dont know how, but form my experience the snorkel hits the light brackets! There is no way it doesn't make contact for others. My only understanding is that when they rivet the window pillar, they push the snorkel, kinda like bending it a little. Also, it did not clear my antenna. It could be that my antenna mount is different from others. I did measure everything carefully, and i did it with the antenna installed. I have not used my radio antenna for years so its not a big deal. Ill just need to find a grommet to plug it.
There are few things that were little frustrating about the info on installing the hilux snorkel. There were no photos of how people laid their template on the fender to clear the ditch lights and antenna. There are multiple ways of laying the template and to your eye, it looking good. Comparing my holes to others, they seem dead on.
I feel like, i made the snorkel fit "to good" and thats why its having clearing issues.By issues i mean, the snorkel hitting the cbi brackets and not fully clearing the antenna. Otherwise it sits and fits flush! When i drilled my big hole. I put the snorkel in with the top black bracket attached. Then i made sure the snorkel was flush as possible, and that the bracket was flush to the window pillar and that there was no extra force needed to push on the top of the snorkel.
So these are my holes
From this view it looks like its blocking it, but its really not.
I dont know if this is mentioned in the hilux thread. But you need to remove the 2 bolts from inside the engine bay that hold the L plastic tube so you can twist it up and line it up with the snorkel one. Otherwise its impossible to attach the rubber hose because the difference in height is insane.
So what i did was. I cut the plastic intake tube that attaches to the L one that is coming from the engine bay into the fender. I made it few inches shorter from the 167 snorkel, and then cut down the rubber hose they supply and slid everything over. The gap between the 167 and the original tube is probably a inch. Which i highly down it will make the rubber hose collapse.
im pointing at those nuts that are welded. Thats the bolt that holds the elbow from engine bay. Takes those bolts out and you can spin it around.
So this is where i got really pissed because it kinda looks like dog shit. I heated the part that touches the cbi ditch brackets thinking i could push down on the hot plastic and reshape it. Well this is how it came out lol. But, it did give me little more clearance!!
The bracket is touching
This bracket... well NO WAY IN HELL AM I DRILLING INTO MY WINDOW PILLAR! I used 3m double sticky tape to attach this bracket to my window pillar. I dont care if it doesn't hold up. Replacing tape is safer, cheaper then new window pillar.
I used a bike tube to make rubber washers and some grease on the holes to prevent rust on the fender
So even with the snorkel touching. Which the issue is that it pushes your top part of the snorkel away from the window pillar which in theory makes it hard for you to attach to the window pillar. But i was about 1/8 inch shy from the window pillar with the black bracket attached to the snorkel.
I think it came out good though. There arent really any big gaps honestly.
There are few things that were little frustrating about the info on installing the hilux snorkel. There were no photos of how people laid their template on the fender to clear the ditch lights and antenna. There are multiple ways of laying the template and to your eye, it looking good. Comparing my holes to others, they seem dead on.
I feel like, i made the snorkel fit "to good" and thats why its having clearing issues.By issues i mean, the snorkel hitting the cbi brackets and not fully clearing the antenna. Otherwise it sits and fits flush! When i drilled my big hole. I put the snorkel in with the top black bracket attached. Then i made sure the snorkel was flush as possible, and that the bracket was flush to the window pillar and that there was no extra force needed to push on the top of the snorkel.
So these are my holes
From this view it looks like its blocking it, but its really not.
I dont know if this is mentioned in the hilux thread. But you need to remove the 2 bolts from inside the engine bay that hold the L plastic tube so you can twist it up and line it up with the snorkel one. Otherwise its impossible to attach the rubber hose because the difference in height is insane.
So what i did was. I cut the plastic intake tube that attaches to the L one that is coming from the engine bay into the fender. I made it few inches shorter from the 167 snorkel, and then cut down the rubber hose they supply and slid everything over. The gap between the 167 and the original tube is probably a inch. Which i highly down it will make the rubber hose collapse.
im pointing at those nuts that are welded. Thats the bolt that holds the elbow from engine bay. Takes those bolts out and you can spin it around.
So this is where i got really pissed because it kinda looks like dog shit. I heated the part that touches the cbi ditch brackets thinking i could push down on the hot plastic and reshape it. Well this is how it came out lol. But, it did give me little more clearance!!
The bracket is touching
This bracket... well NO WAY IN HELL AM I DRILLING INTO MY WINDOW PILLAR! I used 3m double sticky tape to attach this bracket to my window pillar. I dont care if it doesn't hold up. Replacing tape is safer, cheaper then new window pillar.
I used a bike tube to make rubber washers and some grease on the holes to prevent rust on the fender
So even with the snorkel touching. Which the issue is that it pushes your top part of the snorkel away from the window pillar which in theory makes it hard for you to attach to the window pillar. But i was about 1/8 inch shy from the window pillar with the black bracket attached to the snorkel.
I think it came out good though. There arent really any big gaps honestly.
thenightman
New member
I finally caught up on this thread, let me say sir that this is a badass 4runner! The places you go wheeling look like a lot of fun to explore, way different then our west coast scenery. Hopefully this will not be the end of the thread or build!
