Kurtis T4R Build Thread

I see, makes perfect sense. Seeing your build thread makes me more and more anxious to get back to the states haha. As far as the body lift goes, I have a bumper that I neglected to order to be compatable with the body lift, I guess I'm going to have to weld it on?

Body lifts are not required for 35s but they do help. Jon runs Pitbull Rockers without a body lift. He just had to do a lot of cutting and hammering. Check out that Official 35s on 3rd Gen Thread. There is a lot of awesome information on there about what folks did to clear their tires.
 
Well, my bumper has been messed up for some time. The left bracket is pretty well destroyed, not even attached to the bumper anymore. It's been halfway detached since I got that big rock stuck under it, detached the rest of the way when I tapped half of a tree that was too low to see.
9427104678_ac3301619d_b.jpg


That's how it looks right now. And since I'll have to weld to fix it anyways, I figure maybe fix it for now, and begin working on a new bumper. I always liked the looks of yours, so I borrowed from one of your pictures, I hope you don't mind, to mock up what it could look like. This was a quick 5 minute job, just for a rough idea.
9427104626_1595bc34a0_b.jpg


I like the looks of it, I hope you don't mind if I sponge off your design if I do go through with this.
 
Well, my bumper has been messed up for some time. The left bracket is pretty well destroyed, not even attached to the bumper anymore. It's been halfway detached since I got that big rock stuck under it, detached the rest of the way when I tapped half of a tree that was too low to see.
9427104678_ac3301619d_b.jpg


That's how it looks right now. And since I'll have to weld to fix it anyways, I figure maybe fix it for now, and begin working on a new bumper. I always liked the looks of yours, so I borrowed from one of your pictures, I hope you don't mind, to mock up what it could look like. This was a quick 5 minute job, just for a rough idea.
9427104626_1595bc34a0_b.jpg


I like the looks of it, I hope you don't mind if I sponge off your design if I do go through with this.

Haha! Better photoshop skills than me. I don't mind you using my bumper. When you build it make sure to leave clearance for larger tires so you don't have to do it later. Good luck with your bumper build!
 
Just doing some preventative maintenance on the truck this week. I started with replacement of the Valve Cover Gaskets, Camshaft Plugs and resealing the 1/2 moons and then decided to clean the MAF and throttle body. Finished today.

I've been getting lots of PMs about the wiring on the roof rack lights and how I did it. I over complicated the lights a little and used some extra things like diodes to have a few of the creature comforts on my switches. Here's the basic diagram of how my system should be set up. I still need to make some corrections to my circuits to make them more current with the changes I have made in the last 8 months (Different bulb wattage, etc.). I'm not an artist in paint so if you don't like it, you can eat my ass.



I recommend that you get familiar with electricity before you start a wiring project like this. Learn what watts, volts, ohms, and amps are and how the relate to each other. Learn what AC and DC is and what the difference. (No, not the band) There is a bunch of websites out there that will give you a basic understanding of electricity. I also recommend getting familiar with soldering. It's not difficult and relatively cheap. You will get a better connection with soldering than using butt connectors and they won't fall apart. Don't forget heat shrink tubing at the connection too.

Lets set some base rules for the diagram first.
  • Everything that is colored red is 12V DC.
  • Everything color black (except the boxes) is ground.
  • The upside down pyramid looks doohickies with 4 lines are ground points.
  • Intersecting lines that have a curve/hump in them are not connected.

I left out the dash lighting portion on purpose. I would deal with it separately. Just get a good understanding of what the difference between dependent and independently wired LEDs. This website will help. OTRATTW If you go back a few pages on my build thread you will see a terminal board in the mess of wiring. I have also left out the terminal board as it is not required for the install. I just made it more organized for me.

There are 5 circuits here for 5 sets of lights. Only follow one to familiarize your self with it. They all operate on the same principles. For the switched ignition you can use an "add-a-circuit" or "add-a-fuse" and tap off the fuse block under the dash.
1408-2028-51119.jpg~original


Right now I have 30 amp fuses in there but it's a little much. I will be probably be taking them down to 20 or even 15 amps. With a 2x 55watt bulbs on 1 circuit it's still only 9.1amps with a normal load. (110watts/12volts=amps) The master switch is used to turn on all 3 sets of rear, left, and right facing lights at once. Diodes must be used here to avoid turning on all 3 if you only want 1 at a time. I also wired my back up lights to the my rear facing lights so when I put it in reverse the lights automatically turn on. You don't have to do the master switch and automatic reverse lights. It's a creature comfort thing.
 
Thanks for taking the time out to write all that up and make that diagram for us! Your paint skills are surprisingly good haha.
 
Thanks for taking the time out to write all that up and make that diagram for us! Your paint skills are surprisingly good haha.

I hope it helps. The best advice I can give is to do it right the first time with out any short cuts. You won't do it over again and it's less likely you will burn your beloved 4Runner to the ground.
 
Well, it's my birthday today and if you have read my build you know that I love to snow wheel. While I knew I was not going to find snow I can wheel in I still wanted to see the powdery stuff and maybe throw a snow ball at my wife... Well, we found it. At the end of Highway 542, Mount Baker Highway at about 5200'. I was also able to scope out some new snow wheeling spots! I also notice a significant increase in MPG today. I haven't filled up to check numbers but it is obvious it has improved. I am giving credit to the MAF and throttle body cleaning that I did last week.

At the end of HWY 542 you will find this:

Mount Baker. Around 10,000' elevation. No way I was getting to it. I wish.

Packed with tourist.


A couple photos of the truck: (Mount Shuksan in the background)









As a birthday present from me to me I ordered an Ultragauge. It should be here sometime this week.
 
Happy Birthday man! Looks nice up there. Almost makes me miss the PNW lol, which I suppose I sort of do. So did you get to do any snow wheeling?
 
Happy Birthday man! Looks nice up there. Almost makes me miss the PNW lol, which I suppose I sort of do. So did you get to do any snow wheeling?

Unfortunately, no. They cleared the snow off the road and there was just a little bit on the side of the road. I was tempted to drive on it anyway but every no leg shaving, Subaru driving, saddle wearing hippie would have shit bricks if I did. No offense to anyone. Just sarcasm...
 
Unfortunately, no. They cleared the snow off the road and there was just a little bit on the side of the road. I was tempted to drive on it anyway but every no leg shaving, Subaru driving, saddle wearing hippie would have shit bricks if I did. No offense to anyone. Just sarcasm...

:lmao: believe me, I know exactly what you mean.

 
I got my Birthday present mounted today. Sorry for the shitty cell phone pictures. I chose Ultragauge because I really liked the display and how customizable the gauges are. The display was larger than the Scangauge display. I know people argue back forth about Scangauge or Ultragauge. I'll just say that the Ultragauge works for me. I've had this random mount laying around the shop for a few years now and finally found a use for it. Here's how I mounted it.







 
Gave the truck a hair cut this weekend. Or so it looks like I did....

The bar the went on top of the front lights has always bugged me. 99.99% of the time I go function over cosmetic but the bar had to go.

Before:


After:




I also cut some chain link in half and welded it on the rack for securing points. I didn't have them before and it seriously sucked when I went to secure something on the rack.




It looks kind of funny to me because I am so used to the bar that goes across the top. But I think I am happy with it. Time will tell.

Future plans for the roof rack include:

Replacing all rear and side lights with some thing a little more low profile:
6lz9.jpg~original

Roof Rack Lighting

And a 30" Light in the front. This will all happen after I get around to doing a projector retro fit. So, it's going to be a while. While I would like to do a projector retro-fit, there are other things that are higher up on the list. Like a full suspension overhaul...<---Next big purchase.

I think it bothers my wife that I already have the next $10,000 spent in my head...
 
Well, I've been holding out on you guys. I've been building a rear bumper for almost a week now. A couple 8-12 hr days and a couple hours here and there during the week. I wanted something custom for the rear and I wanted to be the one to build it. Of course I was going go plate since the front is also plate. I also wanted to weld it to the frame, not bolt it. It had to be build like a brick shit house because our rear bumpers take a beating when coming off obstacles due to the departure angle. I also wanted the bumper to suck to the body as much as possible. I wanted to decrease my departure angle, not increase it. I liked the idea of a tire carrier because lets be honest here, it would be embarrassing to have to call a buddy to come help me out because I got a flat tire but we are prepared for almost anything else. And running double beadlocks makes using an inter tube for a flat impractical.

I am building this with nothing but a welder and grinder. I don't have a plasma cutter or any special tools. I hope you like geometry. It's all 3/16" steel plate except for a couple parts. I have gone through more than 55x 4.5" metal cut off wheels for my angle grinder... So far...

I started with a 2x3" 3/16 wall rectangle tube I had laying around from when I put the bumper on the '02. I didn't have a full length piece because my band saw broke and started cutting retarded when I did the front bumper. So I sleeved the 2 pieces.

I am running double shield on my welder because it's what it came with and I just haven't used it all. (It's a 33lbs spool) I still get a little splatter.


I also plated it on the back side.


I cut the frame back a little to fit the new cross member there just right.


Got it tucked into the frame.


Then I took some measurements and started cutting this. At this point the cross member is tac welded in place. I will cut it out later to grind and paint everything.


Aaaannnnnddd here's about where I went full retard. The supports I have here are probably a little overkill but like I said, "brick shit house". You can see the gap between the new cross member and the frame. It will be filled in with some 3/16" plate and welded.


I also wanted some beefy recovery points in the rear. The 2" receiver is plenty strong enough for recovery duties but I wanted a couple more just in case we had to use a pulley or 2 for a recovery. I also wanted something I would NEVER wonder if it would hold up or not. So I welder 3x 3/16" pieced together and went to town with a 1" hole saw so I could run 7/8" shackles. These were a pain in the ass to make. Mainly because of the hole saw. What is really funny is I found a 1 1/2' x 2 1/2' 5/8" steel plate in my back yard the day after I finished these. :gun5: Would have been perfect...


Right at the frame rail:


I had a battle with myself about how I wanted to do the access to the receiver pin. I thought about making an access on the top but behind the rear hatch. I thought about just having to access it from the back side of the bumper. Or, cutting 2 holes in the main face of the bumper. I did the last because it breaks up the main plate. It gives it a touch of character I think. I used a 1 1/2" hole saw on all 4 corners then used a grind and a cut off wheel to connect the dots.


All cleaned up and test fitted on the truck.


I am lacking a little on pictures in the next section but I will share what I have. I also have the bumper tied into the old bumper mounts on the body.


In the last 2 pictures you can see the square below the tail light is almost at a 90 degree angle to the body/bumper mounts. I didn't like that so I gave it more angle as you will see in the later pictures. More measurements and more cutting. Not all my cuts are the straightest but it's better than nothing. Really wish I had a plasma cutter right about now.


I got the top side piece measured and cut and the lower sides. Card board is a life saver here. Soda can or beer can boxes work the best. Had to make sure it would clear.


I also found some 1" .120 wall square tube in my backyard. Awesome... I can put that to use. Cleaned it up and made supports for the sides. I will be making 1/4" frame plates for this as well.


Found some use for the lawn chairs. I cut the tac welds and pulled the bumper off to burn everything in.


I also wanted some sort of protection for the tail light. I figured the 1" square tube to do nicely. Just for gits and shiggles I matched the angle of rub rails to the front bumper's grill guard.


After grinding and welding ALL EFFING day




 
Stupid 20 picture limit.....

I am also using 1/2" rebar on the back side of where the rub rail mounts to prevent bumper from pushing into the body. I'll get some pictures of that later this week.


Made sure the tail light clears.:thumb:




I also sleeved over the 2" receiver with some 3" 1/4 wall square tube and welded it solid. A lot of manufactures do a 1/2" piece around the end of it but I just did the whole thing so I know it will take a beating.






I still have lots of grind and welding to do but it's coming along nicely. It's pretty low profile for a plate bumper. It's pretty heavy but it's only dropping the rear suspension by 1/4" compared to no bumper, tire, or hidden hitch. It sits about where it did with all that crap on it. It think it's about 100/110 lbs right now. Not too worried about weight. MPG kinda went out the window with the 35s and beadlocks. I am happy to report that the MAF and throttle body cleaning did miracles for my gas mileage. I get about 15.5MPG around town and 16 on the highway. I still have to order the parts for the swing out. The wife kinda grounded me. Got my first speeding ticket last week. Normally I behave myself but I was cruising on a back road and what can I say, he got me. It will be an extremely low profile swing out. I will be using a double sheer hinge and a 90 degree latch. And that's where it sits as of right now.
dual-shear-face-mount-tire-carrier-hinge-thumbnail-no-logo.jpg~original


de-sta-co-344-r.jpg~original
 
Wow. Built like a brick house is right! Can't wait to see how this ends up! Your truck is definitely one of my favorites on the forum.

55 cutoff wheels :wow:? I hope you get a discount when you start ordering in bulk!
 
Looking good but and nice job on taking the initative to build your own bumper. How you liking them Pitbulls????
 
Wow. Built like a brick house is right! Can't wait to see how this ends up! Your truck is definitely one of my favorites on the forum.

55 cutoff wheels :wow:? I hope you get a discount when you start ordering in bulk!

Thanks. I dig your new sticker and the skids you made for the rear control arms. I think that may be on my list in the next couple months. If you you buy 15 or more cut off wheels you get about a .25 cent discount on each one. They are normally about $1.85. I had to start buying 4" wheel because I bought Home Depot out.

Looking good but and nice job on taking the initative to build your own bumper. How you liking them Pitbulls????

So far I really like them. I can't wait to try them in the snow. That will make it or break it for me. I've tried them out a couple times off road. They are awesome in the rocks. It rained a couple weeks ago for the first time in a couple months and it made driving in the rain very interesting. No traction on pavement in the rain. It probably has a lot to do with oil being on the road. Makes for a fun ride but I will definitely be slowing down in the rain.
 

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