Lazy mans BMC.
- Thread starter Mutant138
- Start date
I needed a very small one with mine.
comtn4x4
Senior Member
So it's rubbing just turning the wheels? How about when fully compressed? You really don't want to go in there and do the job twice. It might require more cutting to eliminate the rubbing when compressed. I'd be worried beating it back would just make the problem worse. Just cut out as much as you possibly can and have someone weld it. That way when you go to bigger tires it won't be a problem.
Mutant138
Banned
Idk just doesn't seem like much to "do wrong". Just a hunk of metal to keep the knuckle and wheel from coming into the cab. I get what your saying tho... Been a lot of spending going on lately.
That seems reasonable like a reasonable price. Sierra said 630 for BMC, cam tab gussets, and an alignment... So if I go down the "do it right" route i'll kill a few birds with one stone once the springs settle.
Mutant138
Banned
Ahhhh christ on a cross... good point.
EddieV4runnin
New member
If you’re gonna do a BMC do it right. I think I payed $275 for mine from Outgear Solutions in Costa Mesa,CA. He did an awesome job, it’s super clean. I’ve parked next to other Tacomas, and 4Runners occasionally curiously gets the better of me and I’ll take a peak at their suspension. You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve seen the ugliest DIY BMCs ever under those trucks. Looked like a Decepticon chewed it off.
I was gonna JB weld mine but ended up having it welded.
ayeyothisiskyle
Member
If money is tight right now, don't do it yet. Save for a bit then get it done right. As others have said, beating it back can cause more problems later on. Shop around. Make the shops compete with eachother. Don't pay them to fix something thats broken later on.
83Mule
New member
Don't beat it.....it is made of ultra HS steel and likely will deform the frame rail before bending enough. Just cut it and you don't need to weld a cap on the cut as that HS steel is not there to support the body mount but for the wheel intrusion. The mount is not compromised by a well done cut. Hit it with Rustoleum and you are done. Fold the pinch weld flap too and you can likely keep the mudflap with some trimming in the wheelwell......I did and I run spacers too!
Angelo
Member
I agree with the earlier post that it's probably asking a little much to pound it straight back with regard to the thickness / strength of the material at that spot. If it's supposed to protect in an accident, I'm thinking it's too stout. Maybe you could if up on a lift, tire off and suspension as out of the way as you could get it... AND you're a sledge wizard. Even then I still think it'd be a bit dependent on the strike and how that thick ass metal wanted to bend.
However, as a possible alternative, I could've sworn I've heard of people taking a very thin "pie slice" cut out proximal and distal to the mount and then pounding it back, then welding the seams closed again. To my way of thinking (if it's possible) this makes for a clean solution AND leaves the original material in place, just pushed back slightly. Even if you can't weld it immediately, it's still somewhat protected. I can't remember the thread I saw this in, but it might've even been on a different forum.
With the availability of the tools and sledge skills you already have, maybe you could make this happen until you find someone willing to weld the seams. Let us know what you go with and post pics!
However, as a possible alternative, I could've sworn I've heard of people taking a very thin "pie slice" cut out proximal and distal to the mount and then pounding it back, then welding the seams closed again. To my way of thinking (if it's possible) this makes for a clean solution AND leaves the original material in place, just pushed back slightly. Even if you can't weld it immediately, it's still somewhat protected. I can't remember the thread I saw this in, but it might've even been on a different forum.
With the availability of the tools and sledge skills you already have, maybe you could make this happen until you find someone willing to weld the seams. Let us know what you go with and post pics!
Big Daddy K
New member
I did my own and used the SDHQ fillers. Personally, I would do it different if I were to do it again. I still get some rubbing if I turn at all under full compression, a bump stop may cure that but...idk.
I wouldn't try to bfh it out of the way either. Those are your body mounts and if it moved at the chassis instead of out past the bushing you might end up with something misaligned. Not too mention they are pretty stout.
If you cut the mount and had the filler plates all ready to go and take it to a weld shop instead of an off-road shop it would be a lot cheaper. It did take me some time to get the plates and the cuts to fit well. I'll bet someone on the AZ4Runner fb page would do it for a 12 pack, or at least pretty cheap.
I wouldn't try to bfh it out of the way either. Those are your body mounts and if it moved at the chassis instead of out past the bushing you might end up with something misaligned. Not too mention they are pretty stout.
If you cut the mount and had the filler plates all ready to go and take it to a weld shop instead of an off-road shop it would be a lot cheaper. It did take me some time to get the plates and the cuts to fit well. I'll bet someone on the AZ4Runner fb page would do it for a 12 pack, or at least pretty cheap.
Toffees
Member
Weren't you just moaning about your back after installing some shocks and know you want to swing a hammer at your new setup in a confined space, which is sure to ruin your back and something you just installed, so you can save a few bucks?
Mutant138
Banned
Pretty much the dominate answer.
I would like to DIY. I would love to have another welder especially since I'm getting into a home. Maybe I can just wait... I need to take a closer look. Maybe after work I'll find a loading dock too lift a well on at full lock to see what contact I make.
Mutant138
Banned
Look motherfu**er I can have my cake and eat it if I want!
Jokes aside I can swing a sledge without hurting myself (at least for a a few hits ha). But it's sounding like I'm not going to do it. We'll seeeee.
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honda250xtitan
New member
cordless sawzall cut it like BUTTER, and no sparks. i'm surprised you need bmc with stock offset wheels. I didn't need it stock height stock trail wheels on 285/70-17 k02's...spidertrax spacers caused a lotta rubbing which i was anticipating
i cut mine a year ago and never welded a plate on. I have flap disks, plate, welder, and beer, but motivation is all time low. Instead of welding the plates on i built a camping trailer lololol
compete? lol for 200$? they'll say "cool story bro go to the other shop" especially if we're referring to a shop like SDHQ.
i cut mine a year ago and never welded a plate on. I have flap disks, plate, welder, and beer, but motivation is all time low. Instead of welding the plates on i built a camping trailer lololol
compete? lol for 200$? they'll say "cool story bro go to the other shop" especially if we're referring to a shop like SDHQ.
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Mutant138
Banned
What UCA's are you running? It really did not look like they would clear my JBA's so I threw the spacers on when I did the lift.
Hahah it's been ****ing hot brother I don't blame you. Also no snow and salt here so it's not like it's a big rush to cap it off. Could sit another 20 and still be fine ha.
Yeah SDHQ it top quality they ain't haggling shit. Now if go to joe schmo muffler shops haggle for some booger welds i'm sure I could get a sweet deal.
I think you're onto something. What if we made a 285/70/17 grinding wheel :0
ayeyothisiskyle
Member
I said $200? Just shop around.
I don't have a BMC because I don't need it. I rarely rub and that is only if I'm in a specific position. During every-day driving, its fine. 285 MTs on Ray 10s Caster set to max around 3.9-4.
