Did you reconnect the rheostat that controls the dash illumination? Without that rheostat plugged in no dash or console back lighting will function.
LED Dash lights FAQs
- Thread starter MStudt
- Start date
Did you reconnect the rheostat that controls the dash illumination? Without that rheostat plugged in no dash or console back lighting will function.
I feel like it’s something simple like that I’m missing but I believe everything has gone back together. Can you tell me where I might have missed the rheostat? If this were not plugged back properly, would I still have all of the other dash lights when the ACC is turned on? I have everything but those three instrument panel lights.
You can see the rheostat in the image below next to the RR DIFF LOCK button. It's easy enough to skip while checking things because you can check thinks without putting that trim back on. Without that connected the dash lights will all work, but all of the backlighting of gauges and things on your center console won't work without it. I think the auto climate control backlighting still functions since that is on all the time rather than being switched.
Last edited:
Ahhh, I see. I was hoping it was something simple like that but if I’m understanding right, it wouldn’t be the rheostat. I’ve never had to unplug it. I’ve only pulled the cap and taken the nut off to be able to remove the trim. It stays plugged in and hanging loosely.
Even while testing lights, I turn the pin back and forth and all the center console lights dim and brighten.
I appreciate you responding with ideas. I’m stumped.
Even while testing lights, I turn the pin back and forth and all the center console lights dim and brighten.
I appreciate you responding with ideas. I’m stumped.
I just reread your post and realized you said you are using 24's for the backlighting. I know the chart at the beginning of this thread says that the gauge backlighting needs 24's but that is wrong. The gauge backlighting needs 74's. If you compare the 24's you are trying to put in to the old bulbs you pulled, you should see that the old bulbs have a slightly larger base. Check out this thread for a more accurate list of bulb sizes.
Wow, very interesting! I definitely went by the diagram on this thread and that’s why I’m two purchases deep on #24s for these. They felt a little loose, so I just loosened the prongs inside the green bulb housing a bit. I’ll definitely get some more 74s and give them a try!
Interesting thing is, I hooked these up to the 9v battery and they burn no problem (all while in those green housings). Can’t imagine why they aren’t working once plugged into their respective spots.
Thanks again.
Interesting thing is, I hooked these up to the 9v battery and they burn no problem (all while in those green housings). Can’t imagine why they aren’t working once plugged into their respective spots.
Thanks again.
I don't know where you have been buying your LED's from, but I definitely recommend the VLED 74's over the SuperbrightLED 74's. The SuperbrightLED's hotspot pretty bad, and the VLED's do a much better job of filling in the light everywhere.
Well shoot.
Went back to #74 incandescents from auto zone just to eliminate any variables with good or bad LED's or polarities. Still nothing.
Rheostat is secure. All other lights on the dash are bright and fine. Center console all good and dimming. These 3 instrument panel lights are just not burning. No corrosion or issues visible on the housings or circuit board. No way that these 3 are on a different fuse or something I'm not seeing?
Thoughts???
Went back to #74 incandescents from auto zone just to eliminate any variables with good or bad LED's or polarities. Still nothing.
Rheostat is secure. All other lights on the dash are bright and fine. Center console all good and dimming. These 3 instrument panel lights are just not burning. No corrosion or issues visible on the housings or circuit board. No way that these 3 are on a different fuse or something I'm not seeing?
Thoughts???
Devbot
New member
I'm gonna assume you did try flipping the LEDs around, right?
When you say "still nothing" on your last post, do you mean you're having the same issue with brand new incandescent bulbs? My guess would be one of the ribbon wires is maybe unplugged or not fully secure
Smog-guy707
New member
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, unfortunately I’ve tried flipping every which way. I’ve flipped the bulbs, I’ve flipped the twist locks, and now I’ve gone all the way back to incandescent.
I’ll double check the ribbon wires but they’ve all been unplugged and re plugged a few times in the process. Unless I’ve somehow missed one, I don’t know what it could be.
Thunderbear
New member
Is there a link to a Toyota test procedure to check all the bulbs on the bench before installing the cluster somewhere?
Devbot
New member
Nope.
Theoretically you could check the wiring diagrams and figure out where to apply power to for each individual light or set of lights on the cluster, and test that way using a 12v power source. In practice, that is way too much work so just plug it in and turn the car on, make note of anything that isn't working, disconnect and flip those around, reconnect and retest, and if everything is good, fully reinstall.
chriscooper.t4r
New member
I have a 99 and use my Amazon prime to the fullest well they didn’t have a 24 bulb but the 74’s i ordered fit soooooo i guess **** it?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Zoom-a-Loom
New member
Superbright LEDS.com is an excellent source
martiansniper
New member
I know this thread is old, but I can't find anywhere what type of bulbs that whole row of CEL lights is. Any chance you may know since you were in the cluster before?
I have a 1999 so I imagine the bulbs couldn't be too different...
MStudt
official vendor
Similar threads
