LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R

Thank you Saker for the thorough and quick response.

We are going to use your solution to frame my light bar to give it a perfect fit and finish. I sure hope it turns out as good as yours did. Mine is a little wider so we'll see how it works out with the curve of the grill. My light bar is straight, not curved. Had we realized the grill had a curve to it first, we would of purchased curved bar! We got a great deal on it, so we'll make it work.

I will make sure and add my install to your very informative thread. It may take some time, but it'll get done. Between work, kids, life and the fact that it is horribly humid and hot here right now.....it will take time.

No worries!

My bar is straight as well, just move your brackets as far back as possible to keep you bar from contacting the grill.
I centered my bolts so they would line up with the widest parts in the grill diamonds. Since mine was only 22" wide, I didn't need any on the sides. That may be an option for your install.
Also, I used a metal roller at work to put a slight arc to the faceplate so it would "hug" the grill, also another option if you make have any sheet metal companies in your area!
They should do that for min amount since it only takes about 1 minute to do!
oh, the bolts can be purchased at homersdepot or Fastenal!

Looking forward to your finished project.
 
I am in the middle of making a home made grill out of steel shaker screen i bought at home depot, pulled out the stock grill section to cut it to size, then a couple cans of plasti-dip to coat it. If the Plasti-dip ends up not holding up to the heat of the light, i'll just peel it off and coat it in heat-resistant engine enamel. I saw someone else do this setup elsewhere, and thought it would be the best route after seeing other options for a similar looking grill selling for around $500. And the $500 grill was just an overlay that mounted on top of the stock grill (huge waste of money IMHO).
 
Since Saker's excellent write-up has been brought back to the top I'm hoping to jump on board and see if anyone who's wired up their bars this way has run into any problems come inspection time by having the ability to have their lightbar and their highbeams on together? For instance our factory fogs automatically go off when the highbeams are triggered.

Years ago I had some cheapy lights on my YJ and needed to add a relay to prevent them from coming on with the highs. This was in Fairfax county, VA and I did try more than just the one station thinking the inspector was just being anal but no dice. Anyone else encounter this?

- Jeff
 
Since Saker's excellent write-up has been brought back to the top I'm hoping to jump on board and see if anyone who's wired up their bars this way has run into any problems come inspection time by having the ability to have their lightbar and their highbeams on together? For instance our factory fogs automatically go off when the highbeams are triggered.

Years ago I had some cheapy lights on my YJ and needed to add a relay to prevent them from coming on with the highs. This was in Fairfax county, VA and I did try more than just the one station thinking the inspector was just being anal but no dice. Anyone else encounter this?

- Jeff

[MENTION=102748]Jeff614[/MENTION] :thanks:

I've had aux driving and fogs on many vehicles, and never had any issues as you describe.

As long as they don't come on every time you go to high beam, I don't see any issue.
They are on only when your switch is depressed and then hit the highs.

These are auxiliary driving lights, so to speak, and will only function in the high beam setting as it is wired in my write-up.
I don't know why they would even ask if they only come on when the switch is set for them to function with the highs.....
 
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[MENTION=102748]Jeff614[/MENTION] :thanks:

I've had aux driving and fogs on many vehicles, and never had any issues as you describe.

As long as they don't come on every time you go to high beam, I don't see any issue.
They are on only when your switch is depressed and then hit the highs.

These are auxiliary driving lights, so to speak, and will only function in the high beam setting as it is wired in my write-up.
I don't know why they would even ask if they only come on when the switch is set for them to function with the highs.....


Thanks Saker! Ill no doubt be using your write-up to install my bar as I much prefer your setup as it seems like the most useful way to wire up auxiliary lighting. Not to mention the excellent step by step directions!

Wiring is my nemesis and I just wanted to poll the forum to see if anyone else has dealt with an over eager safety inspector before wiring everything up. (Perhaps it was just me with the cobbled together YJ caked in mud that set him off).

Thanks again,
- Jeff
 
Thanks Saker! Ill no doubt be using your write-up to install my bar as I much prefer your setup as it seems like the most useful way to wire up auxiliary lighting. Not to mention the excellent step by step directions!

Wiring is my nemesis and I just wanted to poll the forum to see if anyone else has dealt with an over eager safety inspector before wiring everything up. (Perhaps it was just me with the cobbled together YJ caked in mud that set him off).

Thanks again,
- Jeff

I know a shop in nova that'll get you through inspection :gossip:
 
I know a shop in nova that'll get you through inspection :gossip:

lol, they'll be my first stop.

Had hoped to be down there before Thanksgiving to get my shocks on until I got another email pushing their "expected" ship date back to the 28th. Oh well, seems like a common problem with the Bilsteins.

Have my bumper and all its goodies ready to go but a little wary to put it on until the front shocks are at least in the mail.


- Jeff
 
[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] sorry but do you remeber the dimensions for the brackets you made? It's a real clean set up and I would like to mount my bar the same way.
 
[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] sorry but do you remeber the dimensions for the brackets you made? It's a real clean set up and I would like to mount my bar the same way.

[MENTION=48186]cougar428[/MENTION] ,
I actually checked the size of the aluminum channel I used.
CORRECTION: It is 6" raw stock
The easiest way to see what you need is measure from the top of the aluminum bumper to the LED Light Mounting bolts once you have positioned the light at your desired height.
You may require something different than mine depending on your LED Light.
 
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Just wanted to thank Saker again for this write up. I wired up my LED bar in my bumper this past week and mainly used this as my guide. Especially the interior switch portion.

I did end up wiring mine to come on solely by the switch. After a few nights use though I'm debating going to the "triggered by high beam switch" setup for many of the reasons already discussed in this thread.

Question for those, if any, that have purhased the aironboard Toyota switches for a '14, did you find the switch to not fit flush in the switch blank? Mine was clearly to large and no way was going to fit. End up removing the tabs and it then slid it most of the way in and its essentially secured via pressure.

Purchased from their site and the selected switch was stated to fit. Perhaps I got the wrong PN# by mistake or are the '14 blanks a different size (seems unlikely). Going to contact AironBoard but just curious as to others experience. It doesn't look near as good as the one shown in this thread but I decided to just use it verses wait for a new one or use some ugly auto parts store switch.

Regardless. Great write up and couldn't believe, or be happier with how bright the bar is.

- Jeff
 
Thanks for the nice words [MENTION=102748]Jeff614[/MENTION]!

The 14 switches are all one size....
Could have just rec'd a dud! <- (Does any one use that word anymore?)

Give them a call.
Slee also carries the switches as well.

Glad the write-up helped!
 
Thanks for the nice words [MENTION=102748]Jeff614[/MENTION]!

The 14 switches are all one size....
Could have just rec'd a dud! <- (Does any one use that word anymore?)

Give them a call.
Slee also carries the switches as well.

Glad the write-up helped!


I think your right and I accidentally got the wrong PN#. Will tryn get in touch with them and see but the switch works and even sticking out a bit looks better than your run of the mill rocker switch. Can always remedy later. Write-up was great though and really didn't think I'd be this impressed with an LED bar.

Thanks again,
- Jeff
 
Sorry to necro this, but for those of us less machining-able, is there anyone here that sells fab'd brackets for standard led bar sizes to be able to mount like this install? Thanks.
 
I'm pretty happy with mine behind the grill, plenty bright.
 

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I'm pretty happy with mine behind the grill, plenty bright.

Which light bar did you use? I would also like to see how it patterns at this height. I do like how this looks with the pro grill.

I am also, concerned about the longetevity of this setup with the heat of the lights affecting the grill. I dont think that it is that great but it is a concern. Does the mounting place also affect the longevity of the unit?
 
Which light bar did you use? I would also like to see how it patterns at this height. I do like how this looks with the pro grill.

I am also, concerned about the longetevity of this setup with the heat of the lights affecting the grill. I dont think that it is that great but it is a concern. Does the mounting place also affect the longevity of the unit?

LED's don't produce heat themselves but the heat may come from the back of the light bar which should get plenty of dissipation due to where it's mounted...
 
I'm pretty happy with mine behind the grill, plenty bright.

[MENTION=118266]joe_trdpro88[/MENTION],

You would be very surprised as to how much light your grill is actually blocking.
If you open it up, you would be amazed!

Look @ my first post and see before and after pics.....


just sayin'
 
[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]

I'm sure with the light bar in front of the grill it would be a huge difference, but I was a bit surprised myself on how bright it was behind the grill. One of the main reasons I did it behind the grill was so it would be harder for a thief to get their hands on it.
 
LED's don't produce heat themselves but the heat may come from the back of the light bar which should get plenty of dissipation due to where it's mounted...

Well even with my high powered flashlights IE surefire or fenix with 800-90 Lpumens it gets quite hot in front of the light. Also, very worried about engine temps affecting the light. I know some are withon milspec and the hat would not affect them... But they are expensive.
 

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