LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL
The purpose of this write-up is to help people that are interested in installing a light bar behind the grill of their 2014 Toyota 4Runner. I will list the parts used as well as pictures.
For the cleanest install, I'd recommend a full relay harness. TRS makes a nice one, and it's actually got two relays which might be nice if you want to add another light in the future.
HD Relay: H1/H3 - Wire Harnesses - Components
To make things easy, I'd also get these and I'll explain why later:
9006 Extension Cords - Accessories from The Retrofit Source
If you go with a relay harness like the one above, you'll simply connect the power connector to the battery, connect the ground connector to a ground, run the light plugs towards the light in the grill and connect the switch wire to the signal wire in the relay harness. The first three are very easy, the last one takes a bit more work.
In this case, the relay harness has an H1/H3 and you won't need that, so you can cut that connector off. When you cut that connector off, the wire left (orange insulated wire) is where you'll connect the switch wire to. Of course, you'll need to extend that wire from the switch to wherever you mount the relay harness. The other wire (black insulated wire) is a ground wire that will need a terminal.
Now, you'll need to connect a wire from the high beam or fuse to the trigger wire on the switch to provide it with power. This is the questionable part. By connecting to a fuse, you'll have to hit the switch every time you want to turn the lights on. Honestly, it's a pain in the butt if you plan on using your lights on back roads at night. Connecting to the high beam is much more convenient since you can leave the switch on and every time you turn the high beams on, the eBay bar will light up without having to hit the switch. Very handy. If you choose to connect the eBay bar to a fuse and not the high beams, you have two choices. One, you connect it to a fuse that's always hot. Two, you connect to a fuse that is only on when the ignition is on. The advantage of the first option is that you can turn the light on any time, whether the truck is on or off. That's also the disadvantage because it's easy to accidentally leave on. I'm going to suggest you run the trigger wire on the switch to the driver's side headlight and connect it to the high beam wire. (Don't forget to install a Mini Waterproof 3 or 5 Amp In Line Standard Blade Type Fuse Holder on this circuit!) This should work whether you have the DRL or not.
This should give you an operational switch, an operation harness and the only thing left is to connect the light to the relay harness. This is where those 9006 extension cords come in. Plug those extensions into the end of the relay harness at the light, cutoff the part you don't need and splice your light's wires into that extension cord. Basically, it'll leave you with a nice clean plug so it's easy to remove the light in the future.
I'd do all of this in a few stages. You'll need two provide two wires of your own, so you can simply use a speaker wire or something like that that already has two wires in it. They're both going to the switch on one end, and close to the headlight on the other. Run that wire first, through an existing rubber grommet on the firewall near the master cylinder. Do the switch next. Relay harness after that. Attach the lights. Fire it up and make sure everything works. Finally, clean up the wiring, make it pretty, attach the relay where you want it and enjoy the lighting.
Things you'll need:
The switch. Mine came from AirOnBoard USA
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board
The relay harness I linked to, or something like it.
A length of wire as discussed. I used 18-2 gauge stranded speaker wire.
At least three 18-22 gauge t-taps (one at headlight, one at illumination wire on existing switch in dash) A few extra won't hurt since those things are temperamental at best.
Butt connectors, at least 5 for the new switch ( (1)ground, (2)power and (2)trigger wire (solder and heat shrink tubing is preferred if you're capable)
Mini Waterproof Amp In Line Standard Blade Type Fuse Holder (comes with a 10 or 20 amp fuse change to a 3 or 5 amp) This goes on the trigger circuit!
I hope this help someone wanting to install something similar!
Simple Aux Light Wiring Dia
Upper Access Cover - Removed
Lower Access Cover - Removed
Aluminum Brackets Fabricated
eBay 22inch 120 Watt LED Light Bar
Positioning Brackets
Bumper Drilled and Tapped for Brackets
LED Light Bar Mounted
LED Light Bar Mounted Underside View
LED Light Bar Mounted Grill View
Wiring Harness and Relays Installed
LED Light Bar Trigger Wire Connected to High Beam Wire
LED Light Bar Switch Wired Up
(Obviously, the blue/white wire will be run thru the switch hole and connected back to the T-tap)
LED Light Bar Switch
LED Light Bar_1
LED Light Bar_2
As requested, Light Output Pics Added
Low Beams
Low and High Beams
Full Beams with LED Light Bar
(Keep in mind, output is partially blocked by grill, haven't decided whether to cut it or not!)
Picture after the grill opened up!
Huge Difference!
