LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R

[fargo4x4]

I did provide the link to the switch, from AirOnBoard USA
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board.
Seems they don't have any Blue On/Off in stock, at all. Lots of times it is just the time of year. Oh, I paid $27.00ea.

You could try this:Toyota OEM Switch | eBay

or

Slee has some, but not the LED bar illustration.

Aftermarket Toyota Light Switch
Part: STF1056 - $27.50
Switch Face Dimensions; 23mm x 33mm

Aftermarket Style Toyota OE Switch which is compatible with all the newer style dash knock-outs. Supplied with the plug and wiring pigtail. Only available with green illumination.

Gotcha, well i sucked it up and just ordered them lol it sucks cuz for most people 28 bucks on a switch is hard to swallow but they only need 1 or 2 lol... I need 2 locker switches, a compressor switch, front lights, back lights, side lights, lol it adds up =/ but its done now so my switch game will be on point like yours =p

 

[wild_turkey]

Still Hanging?

[MENTION=108915]F1scher[/MENTION] What did you end up doing here?

I am planning to mount my 20" from the same place you did, but bolting up each side using 3" box extrusion mounted with 2 bolts to the top bumper support. I don't think I will get any movement side to side, but I am concerned that it may deflect front to back a little with the weight of the light bar.

Did you ultimately move yours to the bumper or bolster up the install hanging from the support?

Thanks.

You guys spaced/drilled the bumper beam for this; are you able to fish a bolt up through the bottom of the bumper and then put the nut on from the top?

I just put in 20" bar on my '14, by running two 4" stainless bolts down from the top, and "hanging" my bar upside down. No cutting/drilling, and works fine on the road. But off-road it vibrates more than I would like.

 

[Saker]

Gotcha, well i sucked it up and just ordered them lol it sucks cuz for most people 28 bucks on a switch is hard to swallow but they only need 1 or 2 lol... I need 2 locker switches, a compressor switch, front lights, back lights, side lights, lol it adds up =/ but its done now so my switch game will be on point like yours =p

[MENTION=123371]fargo4x4[/MENTION],

Looks what's back in stock and in the color you need!
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switch LED blue -Air On Board

 

[pokits]

For the cleanest install, I'd recommend a full relay harness. TRS makes a nice one, and it's actually got two relays which might be nice if you want to add another light in the future.
HD Relay: H1/H3 - Wire Harnesses - Components
To make things easy, I'd also get these and I'll explain why later:
9006 Extension Cords - Accessories from The Retrofit Source

love that ish! i'm wayyyy to chicken to cut and open my grill tho lol..

i just ordered a 20" bar and a switch form Slee offroads... only thing im missing is a relay and wire harness. Don't have the slightest idea where to start with those and your links just route me to the homepage. Would a local shop have what i need or a radio shock?

 

[Saker]

love that ish! i'm wayyyy to chicken to cut and open my grill tho lol..

i just ordered a 20" bar and a switch form Slee offroads... only thing im missing is a relay and wire harness. Don't have the slightest idea where to start with those and your links just route me to the homepage. Would a local shop have what i need or a radio shock?

[MENTION=122077]pokits[/MENTION],
I wouldn't try to source this stuff locally, especially from RS.

Get quality shrouded harnesses from TRS and you will be very happy you did...
When done, it will look like it came from the factory, if you route them well!
Otherwise it will look ghetto, and who the hell wants that on their T4R?

Try these two links (updated)

HD Relay: H1/H3 - Wire Harnesses - Components

9006 Extension Cords - Accessories from The Retrofit Source

 

[pokits]

LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL



Things you'll need:

The switch. Mine came from AirOnBoard USA
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board
The relay harness I linked to, or something like it.
A length of wire as discussed. I used 18-2 gauge stranded speaker wire.
At least three 18-22 gauge t-taps (one at headlight, one at illumination wire on existing switch in dash) A few extra won't hurt since those things are temperamental at best.
Butt connectors, at least 5 for the new switch ( (1)ground, (2)power and (2)trigger wire (solder and heat shrink tubing is preferred if you're capable)
Mini Waterproof Amp In Line Standard Blade Type Fuse Holder (comes with a 10 or 20 amp fuse change to a 3 or 5 amp) This goes on the trigger circuit!

<br>how about these? lol sorry if these questions have been answered by you or anyone else on this forum... i haven't wired anything since 7th grade woodshop! i've been spoiled with plug n play setups from my ole '98 integ. I appreciate it the info though!!!

 

[Saker]

<br>how about these? lol sorry if these questions have been answered by you or anyone else on this forum... i haven't wired anything since 7th grade woodshop! i've been spoiled with plug n play setups from my ole '98 integ. I appreciate it the info though!!!

Here is the updated link for the LED LIGHT BAR SWITCH

TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board

You can try to source the small other parts locally, I source all mine from the interwebz...

 

[BradBrad619]

Here is the updated link for the LED LIGHT BAR SWITCH

TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board

You can try to source the small other parts locally, I source all mine from the interwebz...

Thanks! I've been looking around for these!

 

[Ride5C2]

I'm pretty happy with mine behind the grill, plenty bright.

Joe,
I like the upper mount location you went with. Where did you mount the bar too, did you fab the brackets for that location?

Thanks!

 

[mbumpus11]

[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] what size t-tap did you use? From the looks of your pic it looks like the 22-18 gauge t-tap, but wanted to confirm since that OEM wire is TINY

 

[Saker]

[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION] what size t-tap did you use? From the looks of your pic it looks like the 22-18 gauge t-tap, but wanted to confirm since that OEM wire is TINY

I think you are correct.
BTW, they are color coded, so whatever the red ones are.
Sorry, not where I can check ATM.

 

[tral]

finally done!

Some takeaways...
- take your time
- pull the grill and the filler panel and the top shroud as you're going to need all the room you can get especially if you are putting in a 30"
- read about the wiring harness you get (i hooked mine up straight to to the battery with. issue is that there is a little red light that is always on... )
- have beer ready too

Overall very happy with the install, it is solid. I'm still stumped on the wiring and what my options are though. I'd prefer not to have to buy the AOB switch but will if needed.

Question - what can I do to get the switch to not draw all the time? I'm no wiring guru so try to explain in the simplest terms (pics are awesome too) there are three wires going to the switch but the eBay harness didn't come with details of what they are.

 

[Saker]

@tral,

There should not be a light on all the time. Best to disconnect and figure it out!
Do yourself a favor and buy a AOB switch and eliminate your issues.

 

[barryhiram]

finally done!
- read about the wiring harness you get (i hooked mine up straight to to the battery with. issue is that there is a little red light that is always on... )

Sounds like you wired the switch wrong, power wire is connected to output side of switch thus led light stays on. Switch power & relay trigger wires on back of switch and all will be good in the world!

Install looks great btw! :cheers:

 

[Leesburgcapsfan]

Can somebody please tell me which wire on the winshield warmer button to splice to light up,my led button?

Had no luck with the search

 

[barryhiram]

Can somebody please tell me which wire on the winshield warmer button to splice to light up,my led button?

Had no luck with the search

It's covered in Saker's thread...................but if you need additional info, here ya go

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192198-switch-not-switch.html

Green - Positive (+)
Gray - Ground (-)

 

[tral]

Sounds like you wired the switch wrong, power wire is connected to output side of switch thus led light stays on. Switch power & relay trigger wires on back of switch and all will be good in the world!

Install looks great btw! :cheers:

There is no wiring of the switch. I'm not saying i have the best harness but it is one where you just plug the switch into the lead from the relay (eBay). The switch itself has the lights in it.

May end up going with a fused spade connector into the fuse box once I find a 12v source and see if that works instead of going straight to the battery.

 

[Saker]

There is no wiring of the switch. I'm not saying i have the best harness but it is one where you just plug the switch into the lead from the relay (eBay). The switch itself has the lights in it.

May end up going with a fused spade connector into the fuse box once I find a 12v source and see if that works instead of going straight to the battery.

[MENTION=96665]tral[/MENTION],

So, let me see if I have this correct.
The switch is pre wired into the harness or you connected it to the harness?
Can you give us a link to the ebay harness? We need more info to help you with this issue of the switch light staying on!

This is not something you want to trust a $35,000+ valued T4R by using a cheap harness wiring setup.
The connection to the battery is fine, you don't want to get on a connection you are unaware of in the fuse panel for you lights' amperage draw.

My suggestion:
Disconnect until you get it figured out without a doubt.

Follow the links in my write-up and get quality parts for your LED Light Bars' harness and switch.

If you don't want to purchase the parts I suggest, at least get good parts from someplace you can trust!

Follow a known working wiring setup!

We don't want to hear the worst!

 

[barryhiram]

There is no wiring of the switch. I'm not saying i have the best harness but it is one where you just plug the switch into the lead from the relay (eBay). The switch itself has the lights in it.

May end up going with a fused spade connector into the fuse box once I find a 12v source and see if that works instead of going straight to the battery.

I understand switch has an LED light built in, it's purpose is to let you know that switch is turned on, LED indicator off, means switch is off. Changing power source won't change issue other than having the LED shut off when you turn the truck off. Is it possible the manufacture reversed wires during assembly, certainly.

You should have three wires running from relay to switch, correct? One wire will be constant power (+), one wire is ground (-), one wire is trigger wire to activate relay. Here is a schematic of a standard on/off switch for reference.



Pin #2 is power, when turning on switch, contact is made between pin 2 & 3 thus sending power to relay turning on LED light bar, but you will notice it also sends power to internal switch LED. If pins 2 & 3 are reversed, internal LED would remain on all the time despite switch position. I would definitely test wires to verify they're correct.

A simple way to turn off switch LED without rewiring to fuse box, simply disconnect ground wire on pin #7. Light will remain off no matter what switch position is.

 

[tral]

definitly appreciate the help here.

Here is the harness i got.

Probably totally blowing this out of proportions but like you said [MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION], don't want to find out the hard way. I'm going to try to cut the one wire once I figure it out which wire is what as the indicator light is pointless to me.