I am ordering the front and rear 5100's with rear springs, but this is not a kit so I am assuming it will not come with any sort of instructions. I feel confident I can take this on, I put a lift on my old Jeep before but I had instructions to point me in the right direction. Is there any step by step instructions/build ups for a lift install on a 5th gen?
Lift install instructions
- Thread starter Brad2064
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Thanks All-Pro, the following link is a pretty decent step-by-step lift install for an FJ.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/stories/Instructions/fjcompletesuspension.pdf
http://www.allprooffroad.com/images/stories/Instructions/fjcompletesuspension.pdf
Yeah I have the 3.5" on mine. But I found they were much better than the Toytecs I was running prior. I think you will find you are going to be very happy with them. They are great springs!
Cant wait to see some pics when its all done. Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!!!
harper7
Senior Member
That's a really good DIY!
Here is another great write-up by Photog that leaves the top plate in place. Good if you have to use your old top plate and not replacing your whole CO assembly . OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Here is another great write-up by Photog that leaves the top plate in place. Good if you have to use your old top plate and not replacing your whole CO assembly . OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Oh I see. Thats will be an awful lot of preload on that front spring.
Nice choice on the shocks .
anyone have an idea how long it should take to install front and rear 5100's? im trying to make some time for it, but not sure when i can fit it in. Im not a mechanic by any means, but know my way around cars pretty well. Did a lift on a jeep once. Also, will the srew down type spring compressors work to get this done or should i pay the $80 for a shop to do it? Thanks
gm350reratliff
New member
I would reserve a whole day to get the job done. It probably won't take you a whole day but that way you won't have to rush (Thats when $#!T hits the fan). When you finish early you can clean up your tools and yourself, grab a cold one and sit back and admire what you just accomplished. I actually reserved two days, one for installing the 5100s and FJ springs, and the next day for alignment and new tires. I didn't need both full days but it made everything go smoother. I would recommend the no spring commpressor method posted by harper7.
Spraying the bolts the day before with PB Blaster should make the job quicker and easier on your knuckles.
harper7
Senior Member
The problem with the hand spring compressors is the winding on the drivers side spring is very tight. It's hard to get the arms of the compressor in them to get a grip. I have a good set of Snap On ones that I had to modify a little bit to get them to work.
Antman and Sp8ball also did a very good write -up on removing them without a spring compressor. I used my hand spring compressor but it was a royal pain and wouldn't advise that method as truck springs are strong.
By far the safest way is to use a wall spring compressor which usually shops only invest in. Pep boys and places like that usually charge around $30-$40 if you just bring them your CO's once they are out of the truck
Thanks Harper, I've called a few local shops and they wanna charge me $80 for the two front shocks. So that is why I was looking at cheaper alternatives. I think that is ridiculous for something that shouldn't take very long. They also said it would take 1.5hrs to do, so I would have to add that time onto my lift install.
I installed new Bilsteins two weeks ago and it took me 2.5 hours. I have done it before on a Tundra and FJ plus I have all the tools I need. I have to agree with Harper on letting a shop change the springs. I have two sets of coil spring compressors and the bolts are bent on both now. I used an impact wrench to compress the coils, otherwise you have to have a way to stabilize the assembly. Just my $.02.
gm350reratliff
New member
Yeah, they could be. However, at home, it is much easier to do it without a spring compressor- read the link that harper7 posted. I have done it both ways. I wouldn't touch those old style spring compressors anymore. The only safe way to compress a spring on a strut while it is out of the vehicle is with one of the professional, dedicated HD strut compressors that most auto shops have. Even then not all professional strut compressors are the same. Truck springs have a lot stiffer spring rates that can bend and even break lighter duty strut compressors. At my former job we went through 3 strut compressors until we found one that could hold up. At the shop, taking the strut out of the vehicle and using the strut compressor machine will save some time vs. doing it with no spring compressor. At home, however, I would bet I could do a strut swap faster without any spring compressor vs. taking the whole strut assembly to a shop to let them swap struts.
TKO88- Not to be preaching here but, be carefull when using spring compressors (especially the old school type that sit outside of the spring on each side) while driving them with an impact wrench. They are not designed for the "impact" part of it. That is part of the reason the studs are bent. If they let go any part of the strut assembly can become a projectile. I have seen a couple of mechanics hurt this way(separate incidents-one was almost killed) and would hate for this to happen to anyone else.
I'm not sure if imnot putting all the pieces together or what, but I'm not seeing how to change the strut spring without a spring compressor. I understand how to take the old strut out and replace with the new strut and spring, but just not sure how to put the old spring on the new strut at home w/o a spring compressor. I am missing something. Can someone outline briefly just the old spring on new strut part of the install w/o the spring compressor? Thanks
