Lift Installed, Alignment help please.

[Qjake]

Hi Guys,

I did search but it's been a long day and I'm tired so no search police please :wink2:

Finally installed my lift today (couple of pics) and need some help with the alignment.

Went with Icon c/o's LR uca's with 18x9 -12 wheel and 295/65-18 Duratracs. As you know these are a tight fit and need positive caster to avoid the body mount. With this in mind I set the balljoint in the arm at +4 caster or as seen as "A" in the pic.

The ball joints were also set nearly all the way in on the uca camber adjustment slide. This still required that we set both lca cam's to almost max out on to get the correct camber. Toe was within spec (no I don't have the align spec sheet :redbrick As it rides now it feels "floaty" and seems to favor going to the left, also it wants to follow every crack, groove or low spot in the road.

I hope some of this makes sense to you guys, as you can tell I'm no alignment specialist and neither is my mechanic though he has done many he says he ain't either :lmao: So if I made sense to anyone your input is welcome

TIA :thumb3:

Q

PS. caster on the spec sheet was... Right @ .07 and Left @ .09, this confused me also as it was at +4 (see above comment about specialist)

 

[harper7]

Hi Guys,

I did search but it's been a long day and I'm tired so no search police please :wink2:

Finally installed my lift today (couple of pics) and need some help with the alignment.

Went with Icon c/o's LR uca's with 18x9 -12 wheel and 295/65-18 Duratracs. As you know these are a tight fit and need positive caster to avoid the body mount. With this in mind I set the balljoint in the arm at +4 caster or as seen as "A" in the pic.

The ball joints were also set nearly all the way in on the uca camber adjustment slide. This still required that we set both lca cam's to almost max out on to get the correct camber. Toe was within spec (no I don't have the align spec sheet :redbrick As it rides now it feels "floaty" and seems to favor going to the left, also it wants to follow every crack, groove or low spot in the road.

I hope some of this makes sense to you guys, as you can tell I'm no alignment specialist and neither is my mechanic though he has done many he says he ain't either :lmao: So if I made sense to anyone your input is welcome

TIA :thumb3:

Q

PS. caster on the spec sheet was... Right @ .07 and Left @ .09, this confused me also as it was at +4 (see above comment about specialist)

You need to set up the LR UCA's to zero as your starting point,which is already a +2 from the stock caster setting. Then you get the other +2 easily to make +4.0 by adjusting the 2 cam bolts (rear cam first for caster and then the front cam to bring in the camber) on the LCA .Tie rods last for toe. I got +5.6 caster settings the last alignment by doing it like this and that was max.

 

[Qjake]

You need to set up the LR UCA's to zero as your starting point,which is already a +2 from the stock caster setting. Then you get the other +2 easily to make +4.0 by adjusting the 2 cam bolts (rear cam first for caster and then the front cam to bring in the camber) on the LCA .Tie rods last for toe. I got +5.6 caster settings the last alignment by doing it like this and that was max.

Thanks Harper, I do understand this, set upper at zero (the LR arms are already +2) using the rear cam on the lca adjust out (which moves the lower balljoint forward) to gain more +caster Then front cam for camber.

So why the other uca settings if you just leave it @ 0 and gain the rest of your caster from the lca? When would one use these other settings on the uca?

 

[Qjake]

You need to set up the LR UCA's to zero as your starting point,which is already a +2 from the stock caster setting. Then you get the other +2 easily to make +4.0 by adjusting the 2 cam bolts (rear cam first for caster and then the front cam to bring in the camber) on the LCA .Tie rods last for toe. I got +5.6 caster settings the last alignment by doing it like this and that was max.

I also found your post with your spec sheet on this Here. I will bring this info back to my mechanic in the morning. Just looking at the pics of how the cam adjustments affect where the wheel sits on the spec sheet explained alot.

If your 32.8x12's have room in the rear then i should def be able to save my mud flaps with my 33x11.5's :thumb3:

Thanks again!!

 

[harper7]

T
So why the other uca settings if you just leave it @ 0 and gain the rest of your caster from the lca? When would one use these other settings on the uca?

When you adjust the rear cam bolt to get say +4.0 caster and then adjust the front one for camber to approx 0 ,it affects the caster so you have to sort of fine tune. For example. set caster to 4.5 and then when you adjust the front it will come down some. If your there adjusting you see what I mean.

My guess for the other initial settings is so that they can be used on other applications, like baja set-ups or rock crawlers where they could use it and don't have fenders and short A arms to deal with.????
With it set at the -2 setting you might be able to get it to work but to bring camber in you would probably have to adjust that top bolt inward and then it could rub on the CO springs. On the LR's,it's just easier to set it a initial setting of zero as you can still get plenty of caster and perfect camber and toe.
Here's limamikes thread that I ddownloaded some pics to,to see where they should be set ..... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/111733-icon-stage-1-installed-but-2.html#post1024966

 

[Qjake]

Here's limamikes thread that I ddownloaded some pics to,to see where they should be set

That setting according to my directions is "C" which is +1?

Better yet which setting in my pic should I use as the initial setting B,C,D??

 

[harper7]

That setting according to my directions is "C" which is +1?

Better yet which setting in my pic should I use as the initial setting B,C,D??

Hard to see your pic as it's small. It's the Zero setting though and the SPC logo needs to be pointed outward and angled forward just a little. Those pics I took are angled forward a little misleading to where the SPC label is positioned.

 

[Qjake]

very good I got it! I'll post how i make out

Thanks again bud, much appreciated :hatsoff:

 

[harper7]

very good I got it! I'll post how i make out

Thanks again bud, much appreciated :hatsoff:

No problem.You'll feel like you have a whole new truck once you get the alignment straightened out!

 

[Qjake]

To harper,

Thanks again for taking the time to once again help out with alignment issues and LR uca's!! (and everything else ya help with) It would be so easy to just shout out SEARCH but instead you once again take the time to type it, so :hatsoff: to you!!

Got my alignment figured out today so thought I'd post my spec sheet and see what you guys think. Bear in mind that I did this align myself and this was the first time I've ever done one or ever used an alignment machine for that matter though my bro in law was keeping an eye on me :wink2: The truck now drives great, no pulling, drifting, shakes or shimmy's. I've only gotten it up to about 60 so tomorrow I'll take it for a ride down the highway and see how it does.

Please input is not only welcome but requested, thx

First I fixed my newb mistake of installing the ball joints wrong, here is the left side correctly installed:



And the spec sheet:



Thoughts?

Thanks

Q

 

[harper7]

To harper,

Thanks again for taking the time to once again help out with alignment issues and LR uca's!! (and everything else ya help with) It would be so easy to just shout out SEARCH but instead you once again take the time to type it, so :hatsoff: to you!!

Got my alignment figured out today so thought I'd post my spec sheet and see what you guys think. Bear in mind that I did this align myself and this was the first time I've ever done one or ever used an alignment machine for that matter though my bro in law was keeping an eye on me :wink2: The truck now drives great, no pulling, drifting, shakes or shimmy's. I've only gotten it up to about 60 so tomorrow I'll take it for a ride down the highway and see how it does.

Please input is not only welcome but requested, thx

First I fixed my newb mistake of installing the ball joints wrong, here is the left side correctly installed:



And the spec sheet:



Thoughts?

Thanks

Q

You did great! You got more caster then me!
Mine were:
5.7/5.6 caster
.4/-.1 camber
.05/.05 toe

The alignment guy had some reason he had the toe set at .05 and the camber differences but I forget what his reason was. He's at a little mom and pop repair shop and he's been aligning for 15+ years so I wasn't going to argue.Something about the toe will pull to zero when driving and the crown in the road!I'm about to have another alignment check done here before my VC travels back and forth across the country. He's great in that he lets you watch right along side as he does it. Just have to listen to a couple of his stories.
Here was my spec sheet. .......... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...ion-all-you-alignment-experts.html#post818058

 

[Qjake]

Ya I had the toe at .05 both sides then while locking down the nuts they both went to zero so I took it as an omen and left it. On the camber you mentioned road crown for drainage as the reason for the dif. If Texas roads are anything like Florida then I can see why but up here most of our roads are decades old so they are pretty flat. As I said, overall it rides real nice, My brother in law suggested we recheck it in a few weeks when things are all settled so if need be we can tweak it then.

PS> All that caster and still rub just a bit on the plastic body mount cover but just barely :biggrin2:

 

[jnance50]

Hey, I'm cheaping out in a few weeks and going with a 2" spacer lift and keeping the stock UCAs for now, any chance I can get your brother in law to align mine after? I would pay obviously, but it would be nice to find a shop that would actually try and help me get it into spec rather than just trying to set it to factory defaults.

 

[Qjake]

Hey, I'm cheaping out in a few weeks and going with a 2" spacer lift and keeping the stock UCAs for now, any chance I can get your brother in law to align mine after? I would pay obviously, but it would be nice to find a shop that would actually try and help me get it into spec rather than just trying to set it to factory defaults.

Sure! He's in Rockland though, a bit far from salem for an align. Maybe on one of your trips to the cape would work let me know when your ready and I'll set it up for ya

 

[Snooperstyle]

OK, so my Icon Stage 2 with LRUCAs lift and new 285/70/17 DuraTracs on TE rims are all getting installed today by a local LC specialist, but I have to get it aligned at a separate shop afterwards.

Just double checking here...Can the installing tech set any of this to get it at least CLOSE prior to formal alignment? Should I just tell him to set it like you guys describe in this thread, and then essentially let the alignment guy tweak it afterwards? I am nervous that the alignment shop will insist on using factory specs.

Thanks for all the awesome info that is already here guys...and apologies if I am asking already answered questions...

I will post pics of the finished product tomorrow hopefully...even though my SW sliders won't be here for eons...

 

[Qjake]

OK, so my Icon Stage 2 with LRUCAs lift and new 285/70/17 DuraTracs on TE rims are all getting installed today by a local LC specialist, but I have to get it aligned at a separate shop afterwards.

Just double checking here...Can the installing tech set any of this to get it at least CLOSE prior to formal alignment? Should I just tell him to set it like you guys describe in this thread, and then essentially let the alignment guy tweak it afterwards? I am nervous that the alignment shop will insist on using factory specs.

Thanks for all the awesome info that is already here guys...and apologies if I am asking already answered questions...

I will post pics of the finished product tomorrow hopefully...even though my SW sliders won't be here for eons...

Snoop,

Make sure your installer sets the balljoints as described above. The LR uca's when set to zero (the "D" position in the destructions) is +2 caster on the uppers. If your installer doesn't have an alignment machine then the best he can do is eyeball the rest.

When you go for your align ask to speak with the tech before he starts and tell him you want as much positive caster as possible. He should be able to get at least 4.5 but probably alot more, then he can dial in the camber and toe to spec. If he balks (dunno why he would) take it somewere that will do it.

Also print out my spec sheet above and Harpers Here (i'm sure he'll chime in soon) and bring them with you for the tech.

Good luck

 

[Snooperstyle]

Talked to the tech a bit ago, and I think he said he put it on setting "B" as per Metal Tech's (or maybe it was Icon's) instruction sheet. He might have said "D". Dang cell phones! He said everything else went really well, but that I might rub on the back of my front tires. He said he would get wheel spacers before he would readjust alignment to prevent rubbing. Is it unsafe in any way to push the wheel forward using alignment tweeking, as you and everyone else has done? It seems as if I am not going to get a good feeling ride until I move that wheel forward anyways...

Anyways, I think I have everything I need thanks to you guys...I just wanted to be dead sure on what to tell the alignment guy. I will be taking this printed out thread with me for sure. That might not happen until next week anyways. Thanks! --Dan

 

[Qjake]

Make sure it's "D" and not "B", thats the mistake I made. I believe wheel spacers will only make the rub in the rear worse. More positive caster from the lca's will move the wheel forward and is safe to do. I'm running 295/65x18 and barely rubbed on the rear with my settings, if you can achieve the same you should have no rub.

 

[Snooperstyle]

ok. Noted. Thanks!

 

[harper7]

Make sure it's "D" and not "B", thats the mistake I made. I believe wheel spacers will only make the rub in the rear worse. More positive caster from the lca's will move the wheel forward and is safe to do. I'm running 295/65x18 and barely rubbed on the rear with my settings, if you can achieve the same you should have no rub.

^What he said!

ok. Noted. Thanks!

Red flag.......that he is clueless "He said he would get wheel spacers before he would readjust alignment to prevent rubbing. Is it unsafe in any way to push the wheel forward using alignment tweeking, as you and everyone else has done?"