Lift?

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Nerofiend

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Lift? *Updated*

****Updated on next page****

Im thinking about getting rid of the cheap body lift on my 87 runner and getting a good suspension lift instead. Im new to 4runners and im hoping to get some advise on what would be a good lift kit to get.

Specs:

87 4Runner
4 cyl
IFS
34" Swampers
3" Body Lift
4.88 Gears
F/R Spartan Lockers
5 Speed Manual
4x4

Im no fabricator and i dont have the tools or ability to do a SAS swap, id like to but i think its out of my comfort zone and ability. So what im looking for is a good IFS lift kit that i can do in my garage. Something thats a little more on the bolt on easy to do side lol.

I take my runner to an ORV area here in Kansas that has a lot of decent sized rocks so i need the travel. Ya i know SAS would be MUUUUUCH better but im just not able to do that and im sure having someone else do it for me at a shop would cost me about 4k or more.

I was looking into the Blazeland IFS long travel kit, anyone know much about that one? Really dont want to spend more than $1500 on this cause my wife said she would cut me deep if i go much more than that.

Or any other suggestions?

Posted some pics of my runner on the first gen gallery area if your intrested in looking.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...a-4runner-picture-gallery-64.html#post1208482

****Updated on next page****
 
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you pretty much have 2 options. a 2" lift (preferrably OME, runs about 600-700) or a 4" bracket lift that puts the whole front suspension down with drop brackets. those will run you over 1k. not sure if the 34" swampers will fit under a 2" lift though, so some sheet metal work may be needed. anyone can correct me if im wrong:boxer:


is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
 
First to Runnercam--I think it's safe to say he has 4WD, as he mentioned having a front locker.
I'm not familiar with the Blazeland kit, but the leading long-travel system (Total Chaos, if I remember right) is a bit pricey, and any similar design may create clearance issues with the front fenders because of the extended A-arms. A simpler bracket-drop kit is typically around $1200 or so, but it won't increase your travel much (if any)--they're just for overall ground clearance. You could do a lot better with some new gears, too--those 4.11's must feel pretty anemic with 34's. Something around 4.88 would bring your engine back into its powerband. What's the 6-speed out of? You could always split the difference and get the OME 2" lift and a small body lift (4Crawler makes a good one). You are correct about the SAS conversion--it is not for anyone who isn't sure about their fabrication skills, and it would likely cost a lot to have it done by a pro.
 
Opps, sorry guys had some brain farts posting that apparently.

Its a 5 speed manual. Started as an automatic but was swapped for a manual. And I got the gears confused, I think it started with 4.11 or even taller and i changed it to 4.88.

I edited the original post to fix my blunder lol.
 
Nope I take full credit for that lol. My first post simply made you look that way but only because I had obviously had twice what you did when i posted it lol.
 
Blazeland is a good option if you wheel, but that starts at $1000 or so and doesn't include shocks and doesn't do anything to lift the rear. A drop-bracket like Superlift will give you lift to fit tires, but you won't get any more travel out of it.

All I had to do to fit 33s was a ball joint spacer in front and stuff a few more leaves into the rear pack and add a 6" shackle. I think if you did the same, with maybe a little torsion bar adjustment (not too much!) or a little pounding and trimming on the inner fenders, you could clear those 34s. $100 for ball joint spacers, $100 or so for 6 inch shackles, and you can normally get castoff spring packs for free, or at least cheap, from wheeling buddies. That's what I'd do if I were you, you lower your COG, gain wheel travel, and come in well under your budget.

If you felt like spending more money, look into an OME/Dakar suspension - you'd push your $1000 budget, but get around 2" of suspension/travel lift and gain a plush ride to boot.
 
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Get a good suspension lift like the Old Man Emu and keep the body lift (you can always remove if later). You can add some BJ spacers up front and longer shackles in the rear to make more room for the 34's if needed.
 
BucknutBob said:
A simpler bracket-drop kit is typically around $1200
Click to expand...

Rough country makes a 4-5" suspension lift that includes drop brackets for everything, blocks(which can be eliminated with new leaf springs), and 4 shocks for $600. Thats exactly what I got and I am very pleased with the lift so far. It will keep your ride and travel the same as it was before the lift, it'll just make more room for tires and improve clearance.

Here's the link Toyota Suspension Lift Kit
 
So there really isnt much out there that will give me more suspension travel then, other than a SAS?

Thats kinda depressing lol.

I use it as a to and from work truck then go to Tuttle Creek ORV here in Kansas to wheel. It has some pretty steep hills and a nasty little rock garden and some trails with shelves that can be pretty nasty in places. The stock IFS just cant get me there lol.
 
Nerofiend said:
So there really isnt much out there that will give me more suspension travel then, other than a SAS?

Thats kinda depressing lol.

I use it as a to and from work truck then go to Tuttle Creek ORV here in Kansas to wheel. It has some pretty steep hills and a nasty little rock garden and some trails with shelves that can be pretty nasty in places. The stock IFS just cant get me there lol.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say that--long travel kits do just that, give longer travel than stock. But you are correct in that they can't compete with the travel possible with a solid axle, and no matter how good the design, an IFS will ALWAYS get closer to the ground as the tire goes over obstacles--unlike the solid axle, which lifts with the tire. Still, you CAN accomplish a lot with the IFS--with extra clearance, good tires, and a locker or two, you can go make it through pretty outrageous trails with good driving. Many of the members here can confirm that through personal experience, so I wouldn't throw in the towel just yet.
 
BucknutBob said:
no matter how good the design, an IFS will ALWAYS get closer to the ground as the tire goes over obstacles--unlike the solid axle, which lifts with the tire.
Click to expand...

On the flip side of that, the IFS will stay lower to the ground as you go over the obstacle, and if your rear travel is good that may be better than raising the whole front of the truck in an off-camber situation.

To the OP, properly set up ball joint spacers will increase your travel a little, and not cost very danged much at all. A long-travel system like Blazeland or Total Chaos will increase your travel a lot, and cost a lot. Then there's fine tuning - bump stop height, properly configured steering, and the correct shocks all make a difference. Your rear travel makes a difference, too. You can compensate for poor IFS travel by making sure your rear is nice and flexy.

You don't need a solid axle to hang with the big boys - if IFS rigs can run KOH, they can probably tackle anything in your park. If your buddies are leaving you behind, invest in a locker. A locked IFS rig will asolutely clobber an open-diffed straight axle, all other things being equal.
 
OK so how bad is the pitman and or idler arm wear that I see mentioned damn near everywhere someone mentions a spacer lift?
 
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mikebontoft said:
OK so how bad is the pitman and or idler arm wear that I see mentioned damn near everywhere someone mentions a spacer lift?
Click to expand...

Que? I don't know that I've ever seen that. I see idler trouble associated with large (and wide) tires, but I don't think I've ever seen it blamed on a spacer lift. I ran skinny tires and a spacer lift for three years and my idler is still solid.
 
perhaps that's because every single person that said they had problems had big tires? I would have thought they had figured it out by now. well maybe that's my next thing then.
 
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