Lift?

KidVermicious said:
On the flip side of that, the IFS will stay lower to the ground as you go over the obstacle, and if your rear travel is good that may be better than raising the whole front of the truck in an off-camber situation.
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Afraid I'm going to have to disagree with you there, Kevin--the IFS will only stay low until the little bit of travel is used up, and then it starts tipping the entire vehicle over. The solid axle, on the other hand, will stay low overall much longer, because the suspension will continue to flex with much less tipping. I have experienced this time and again with my own vehicles--where I thought my overly-tall SAS rig would be incredibly tippy, it is instead very stable because after the obstacle side is fully stuffed, the opposite side will continue to droop, keeping the rig much more level than my IFS rigs ever did.
 
BucknutBob said:
Afraid I'm going to have to disagree with you there, Kevin--the IFS will only stay low until the little bit of travel is used up, and then it starts tipping the entire vehicle over. The solid axle, on the other hand, will stay low overall much longer, because the suspension will continue to flex with much less tipping. I have experienced this time and again with my own vehicles--where I thought my overly-tall SAS rig would be incredibly tippy, it is instead very stable because after the obstacle side is fully stuffed, the opposite side will continue to droop, keeping the rig much more level than my IFS rigs ever did.
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Must be a difference in setup - this is why I say a flexy rear complements the IFS well, because when that front travel is used up, the rear takes over and the rig can tip, but still stay low when compared to a big lifted straight axle rig. I distinctly remember a specific obstacle that the Jeep in front of me had to back off because he came too close to tipping when the tall rock on the left raised him too high. I cleaned the same obstacle my '86 because my left front stuffed and the rig pivoted on the rear springs without raising my COG too much. I was all sorts of sideways and lifted the front right WAY in the air, but I never was in danger of flopping.

But that's just my experience. There's lots of ways to build and drive a truck. :cheers:
 
No doubt about it the rear end plays a key role in how either front suspension reacts, and I totally agree that having a great deal of flexibility there will help keep the overall balance of the rig longer, while having a stiffer rear suspension will contribute to tipping the rig much sooner. Someone like that Jeep probably had a fairly stiff rear set-up.
 
I know this thread is old but i decided to go for broke and spend the money on my rig. I also decided i wanna see just how far the IFS system can take me.

I still need some advise and input on if i did the right thing so PLEASE tell me what you think and if you think its going to turn out right.

Here is what i have.

I went with the Blazeland Long Travel IFS system for the front.

http://blazeland.us/long-arm-kits/

Then got the stuff needed to finish it.

Torsion Bar: Camel 4x4: Torsion Bars

New front shocks:5100 Series - Lifted Light Truck/SUV

And a pair of Toyota T-100 Axles to finish the front with. I am also replacing all the ball joints and tie rod ends while im under there.

Thats the front, I read everyones replies on here and took it to heart and decided to get the rear suspension done up to match or surpass the front and make it nice and flexible.

Here is what i did for the rear....

All Pro Off Road 4" rear suspension kit: https://www.allprooffroad.com/8489suspension/8689rearkits

I am adding 3" wheel spacers in the rear to match the extended width the Blazeland IFS kit give in the front. I am also removing the 3" body lift the truck currently has and replacing it with a 2" body lift just for extra clearance.

Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated, I already have all the parts at home i just gotta get them installed and remember to test my welder to make sure its still working to install the rear springs lol. I hope that its all going to work out right and that the rear dont end up taller than the front. Thats my main worry right now cause i dont want to have to alter the kits.

What you all think?
 
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Three inch wheel spacers are huge. I'd skip that and just stick a wider axle under there. Other than that I think you've got a good plan. I'm jealous, I always wanted a long travel IFS suspension.
 
I thought about a wider axle but I just changed out the gears in this one as well as added the spartan locker and i would hate to get rid of that and have to do it all again on another axle. Plus I kinda looked around and didnt quite figure out what one would work for me very well.

My other thought was to add only a 2" wheel spacer since i dont think i or anyone else would really notice an inch difference between the front and rear width.

I do wonder if i will need a ball joint spacer on the front to help match the rear since I think the Blazeland kit only lifts the front about 3" and the rear will be closer to 4"+.
 
Nerofiend said:
I will read up more about this and see if its something i can pull off.
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You would need to grind off the old spring perches and weld new ones on, because your frame width is narrower. You'd also need to extend your brake lines and ebrake cable. I think you should do it, 3" wheel spacers are an awful lot of leverage on those little wheel studs.
 
There's nothing wrong with having a wider wheel track in front. Look at the older solid axle full size Chevy's... they are 3" wider in front from the factory.
I wouldn't even worry about it.
 
The kit I'm installing in the rear makes me cut the perches as it is I believe, since the new leaf springs it comes with are like 54" leafs so I'm going to have to do some cutting and grinding anyways lol.
 
Well after some time and some other mods this little guy is done (For now). Thought i would update and post some pics. Thanks for all the advise and help, it got me this far :)

IMAG0054.jpg

Along with my other kids.

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Now that i post this I see why im always so damn busy. I also installed the LCE power package with the big bore throttle body, LCE cam, header, air intake system, injectors, and added a new cat and flowmaster 44 muffler, and some Micky MTZ 35's. Loving it so far !!!

Next item on the way will be the Marlin crawler 4:70 T-Case to slow things down a bit for the big rocks. The Blazeland kit has been holding up very well so far and so have the OEM balls joints on it. Had it out at the ORV areas here about 6 times so far and has been over some rather nasty rocks and waterfalls with great results.
 

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