rigtec
New member
Forgot to mention, those subs' are no longer, permanently mounted; no screws, brackets, or mounting hardware of any kind (the "L" brackets in the 1'st photo was an experiment, but have since been forever removed).
The subs are now held down securely by 2,10" mini bungee cords. I installed a 1/2"
threaded eyelet on the back of each of the boxes. there is also a "car seat anchor", on the back of both of the folding rear seat-backs.
The bungee cords get hooked between the "eyelets", and the "seat anchors". The cord tension can be adjusted by looping the cord between the two affixments, until there is enough tension to hold down the enclosure securely. Then just hitch the bungee hook to one of the 2 anchors.
The subs can be moved around in the truck very easily, or removed all together. The amp is a "mono-block", meaning a single amp, whose purpose is to drive ONLY the sub, or subs; I'm using 2, but one can be used very effectively.
Incidently, I'm still only using the stock head-unit; didn't want to change the way the dash-board looks, plus, it sounds great.
Cheers, Greg (rigtec).
The subs are now held down securely by 2,10" mini bungee cords. I installed a 1/2"
threaded eyelet on the back of each of the boxes. there is also a "car seat anchor", on the back of both of the folding rear seat-backs.
The bungee cords get hooked between the "eyelets", and the "seat anchors". The cord tension can be adjusted by looping the cord between the two affixments, until there is enough tension to hold down the enclosure securely. Then just hitch the bungee hook to one of the 2 anchors.
The subs can be moved around in the truck very easily, or removed all together. The amp is a "mono-block", meaning a single amp, whose purpose is to drive ONLY the sub, or subs; I'm using 2, but one can be used very effectively.
Incidently, I'm still only using the stock head-unit; didn't want to change the way the dash-board looks, plus, it sounds great.
Cheers, Greg (rigtec).
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