Light Racing UCA's

[brockeverly]

May I ask, how do you lube them after they are installed? I really hope you don't mean pulling the darn thing off and spreading the poly pushing lube inside each bushing and reinstalling...that would truly be a pain! You guys are making me not want to install my LRs anymore :sadwave:

The Light Racing do not have that issue, so you should want to install them. Mine are pretty quiet all the time, it is still your factory ball joint. :rockon:

As stated above, there is a zerk and you can also spray the uniball with a lithium spray (I believe that is what he uses) and let it soak in for a few minutes. This is for the uniball Camburg's only, you do not need to worry about this with your LR.

 

[eddiebx]

The camburgs have grease zerks on the bushing area. And the uniball can be drip lubed.

I've had a 4wheeler w/ uniball on upper/lower A-arms that didnt make near as much noise as you guys describe. We'd lube them with non-sling chain lube w/ bel-ray brand. It creates a dry sticky wax type lube much like the discription of the tri lube that wheelers sells for them.

The Light Racing do not have that issue, so you should want to install them. Mine are pretty quiet all the time, it is still your factory ball joint. :rockon:

As stated above, there is a zerk and you can also spray the uniball with a lithium spray (I believe that is what he uses) and let it soak in for a few minutes. This is for the uniball Camburg's only, you do not need to worry about this with your LR.

Thanks for the clarification guys! Back to mentally planning my install for the next 6 months like I do with every other mod. My lift parts have been sitting in my living room for a month already, so according to my calculations I'll have this stuff installed by October :dammit:

 

[Stu-Runner]

Yeah that makes sense, so I'm kind back to my original thoughts that the LR UCAs are no good. Sounds like from reading the previous posts some are and some aren't.

Like you said it's tear down time...fun!

Stu

I wanted to provide and update. After a couple thouand miles, the LR UCA and Icon coil overs up front have gotten very quiet which I am glad about. I have lubed the extra zerks only once since the install. I also had noise issues with the rear Icon extended travel shocks. The rubber seals were shot and squeaking like hell. Since the Icon's do not have a rubber boot on the rear shock shaft, they are not protected from dirt and grime so I think that may have led to their demise. Tried lubing them and it only helped for a day or two max... I installed some Bilstein's and all the noise went away from the rear. I need to reach out to Icon and see if they would give me any money for the rear shocks, since they are rebuildable. I am not personally interested in running them again because without a protective boot, I feel the rubber seals will go to shit quickly.

So for now my setup is totally quiet!

Stu

 

[Snowdogyyz]

Wierd. I had Icons and LR UCA's on my FJC for 3 years and never had a noise issue or an issue of any kind! Maybe I was just lucky! In any case, I'm going with Bilsteins on my TE.

 

[Tailsonthetrail]

Old post resurrection but would anyone know the size or where to get the zerk fitting for the LR UCA. One of mine must have popped off somehow.

 

[BigredTEX]

It should be a standard zerc that can be purchased at any auto parts store. I've got the older version without the zerc fitting, including a spare.

Are you sure it wasn't sheared off, leaving the threaded portion still in the hole? That's gonna be a whole other problem.

 

[Tailsonthetrail]

It should be a standard zerc that can be purchased at any auto parts store. I've got the older version without the zerc fitting, including a spare.

Are you sure it wasn't sheared off, leaving the threaded portion still in the hole? That's gonna be a whole other problem.

That's what I was worried about too. I'll have to double check that in the morning. What would I need to do if that's the case? (I went into autozone today and they had no idea about the getting a zerk.) I'll check somewhere else.

 

[heron163]

That's what I was worried about too. I'll have to double check that in the morning. What would I need to do if that's the case? (I went into autozone today and they had no idea about the getting a zerk.) I'll check somewhere else.

most zerks are not torqued to extreme values (they can break pretty easily if over tightened which has led to my experience in extracting broken ones:madgrin and a broken one is pretty easy to remove with an extractor tool. In a worst case, once it cas been removed, run a tap through to clean up the threads and you should be good to go

 

[Tailsonthetrail]

most zerks are not torqued to extreme values (they can break pretty easily if over tightened which has led to my experience in extracting broken ones:madgrin and a broken one is pretty easy to remove with an extractor tool. In a worst case, once it cas been removed, run a tap through to clean up the threads and you should be good to go

Awesome thanks for the information. Looks as it must not have been in tight or (taken off) when getting alignment. I was easily able to screw the new one in just the length of threads is longer than the original but it works for now.

 

[heron163]

Awesome thanks for the information. Looks as it must not have been in tight or (taken off) when getting alignment. I was easily able to screw the new one in just the length of threads is longer than the original but it works for now.

dont worry about some thread showing - as long as it is secure and at the right orientation to add grease when you need to, everything is good