Limited Edition Mod Thread

Finally pulled the trigger on a lift kit, back ordered but one step closer. Has anybody regretted getting rid of the xreas?

Had my limited for about a year and a half.

I'm very happy with my 6112/5160s. Others have had problems with their 5160s but mine have been fine for the last 4 years. Hopefully, the 5150s don't have the same issues. I have no regrets about switching from XREAS. The ride provides perfect dampening and rebound for both on and off-road.

I have mine set 2" on the front and 1.5" springs on the rear to give me a very slight forward rake (levels out when I'm loaded with camping gear). If I had to do it again, I would probably get heavier springs on the front and rear to accommodate metal bumpers and a winch. However, without those mods yet, it's perfect.

PS - There is a procedure for correctly moving the XREAS if you ever wanted to revert or sell your stock shocks. I don't have a link to my posts and the PDF, but I posted it to a couple of XREAS threads on this forum. I haven't had any luck selling mine but it's nice to know they can be reused since they were removed correctly.

I hope you enjoy your lift when it finally comes in.
 
Honestly all the options and opinions on them kind of made my head spin so I stuck with the kits I was able to drive personally, which were only a few, and these bilstein’s worked best for what I’d use them for and the price.

Are you going to install the non Xreas sway bars from a SR5?
 
I'm very happy with my 6112/5160s. Others have had problems with their 5160s but mine have been fine for the last 4 years. Hopefully, the 5150s don't have the same issues. I have no regrets about switching from XREAS. The ride provides perfect dampening and rebound for both on and off-road.

I have mine set 2" on the front and 1.5" springs on the rear to give me a very slight forward rake (levels out when I'm loaded with camping gear). If I had to do it again, I would probably get heavier springs on the front and rear to accommodate metal bumpers and a winch. However, without those mods yet, it's perfect.

PS - There is a procedure for correctly moving the XREAS if you ever wanted to revert or sell your stock shocks. I don't have a link to my posts and the PDF, but I posted it to a couple of XREAS threads on this forum. I haven't had any luck selling mine but it's nice to know they can be reused since they were removed correctly.

I hope you enjoy your lift when it finally comes in.

I removed mine with only one or two drips by disconnecting at the 6 check valves (3 per side). Only tricky part for me was bc I have sliders I had to finesse the lines out. Also, where it crosses under the front half I had to hand bend the lines just a bit, didn't kink the lines at all and could totally be reused. If I remember right it was a 1" open ended wrench I used, but could be wrong on the size. It was a trip, I removed the rear shocks and test drove it, the front shocks were essentially locked and stiff as a brick, didn't want to collapse when I went over some speedbumps. It's an interesting system for sure.

First and second pages show the 6 check valves (just behind front shocks, by the pumps in the middle, and in front of the rear shocks). You turn the biggest nut on the check valve junction. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/toyota-4runner-xreas-suspension-replacement-diy-instructions.pdf

I have the 6112/5160 setup with the 650lb springs up front and Ironman 4x4 HD rear springs. HD rears are too strong for the 5160's (will go Kings later on), so while smooth it's a little bouncy. I'm not running sway bars either, which unloaded is not very noticeable, but with my RTT I could prob 3 wheel lol (I come from the prerunner crowd so I like the body roll hehe).

Nightwing, did you pay to have your 6112's preassembled? If not, call back and do it, worth every penny.
 
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I'm very happy with my 6112/5160s. Others have had problems with their 5160s but mine have been fine for the last 4 years. Hopefully, the 5150s don't have the same issues. I have no regrets about switching from XREAS. The ride provides perfect dampening and rebound for both on and off-road.

I have mine set 2" on the front and 1.5" springs on the rear to give me a very slight forward rake (levels out when I'm loaded with camping gear). If I had to do it again, I would probably get heavier springs on the front and rear to accommodate metal bumpers and a winch. However, without those mods yet, it's perfect.

PS - There is a procedure for correctly moving the XREAS if you ever wanted to revert or sell your stock shocks. I don't have a link to my posts and the PDF, but I posted it to a couple of XREAS threads on this forum. I haven't had any luck selling mine but it's nice to know they can be reused since they were removed correctly.

I hope you enjoy your lift when it finally comes in.

Thank you!! I’m still looking around for the right way to install these so I’ll run a search for your posts and hopefully find them. At worst if I don’t think it’s something I can do I can take it down to one of the Toyota dealerships in the state that I know has installed lifts on limiteds.
 
I did order them preassembled. One of my friends suggested the same thing to make the install easier.

Good, not having to mess with spring compressors is always a good thing lol.

Will you be upgrading UCA's? If so, have a helper to start the long bolt front above. This was the only part I needed extra hands. Can be done solo, but the fender well/liner makes this a cumbersome task. Also, my 2010's UCA balljoints did not want to separate from the spindle even with hours of multiple PB Blaster soakings. Worst I've ever dealt with. Had to resort to using the balljoint separator fork rental tool which destroys the old balljoint boot and scratched off paint from the top of the spindle. The spindles are forged steel so they're super tough and can take the hits, but damn that thing did not want to come out and I pounded the crap out of it. Went with Dirt King's balljoint UCA's.
 
Good, not having to mess with spring compressors is always a good thing lol.

Will you be upgrading UCA's? If so, have a helper to start the long bolt front above. This was the only part I needed extra hands. Can be done solo, but the fender well/liner makes this a cumbersome task. Also, my 2010's UCA balljoints did not want to separate from the spindle even with hours of multiple PB Blaster soakings. Worst I've ever dealt with. Had to resort to using the balljoint separator fork rental tool which destroys the old balljoint boot and scratched off paint from the top of the spindle. The spindles are forged steel so they're super tough and can take the hits, but damn that thing did not want to come out and I pounded the crap out of it. Went with Dirt King's balljoint UCA's.

Not planning on upgrading the UCA’s right now but eventually
 
I'm very happy with my 6112/5160s. Others have had problems with their 5160s but mine have been fine for the last 4 years. Hopefully, the 5150s don't have the same issues. I have no regrets about switching from XREAS. The ride provides perfect dampening and rebound for both on and off-road.

I have mine set 2" on the front and 1.5" springs on the rear to give me a very slight forward rake (levels out when I'm loaded with camping gear). If I had to do it again, I would probably get heavier springs on the front and rear to accommodate metal bumpers and a winch. However, without those mods yet, it's perfect.

PS - There is a procedure for correctly moving the XREAS if you ever wanted to revert or sell your stock shocks. I don't have a link to my posts and the PDF, but I posted it to a couple of XREAS threads on this forum. I haven't had any luck selling mine but it's nice to know they can be reused since they were removed correctly.

I hope you enjoy your lift when it finally comes in.

Exactly what I want to do, what 1.5 inch spring brand/part number did you go with?
 
I have not. But I'm curious to know if one should. The Xreas links the corners of the cars together to help improve roll stiffness via damping using hydraulics. But... once you remove the Xreas you have significantly less roll stiffness. If I'm not mistaken I believe the limited trim models use a 17mm diameter sway bar. All other trims that are 4WD without KDSS use 31mm.
 
I have not. But I'm curious to know if one should. The Xreas links the corners of the cars together to help improve roll stiffness via damping using hydraulics. But... once you remove the Xreas you have significantly less roll stiffness. If I'm not mistaken I believe the limited trim models use a 17mm diameter sway bar. All other trims that are 4WD without KDSS use 31mm.


I removed the xreas completely and now running kings. When I compare it to my buddies trd pro with 31mm sway bars and kings, I believe his setup has less lean during turns compared to my 17mm setup.

I plan to do this upgrade one day. Anyone know the part number ?
 
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New to the group and T4R fam, just got a '20 nightshade LE back in September. So far all I've done is tint, clear bra, and now a leveling kit but I'm in love with it! Waiting on my Gobi stealth rack that will come in next year... now thinking about TRD pro rims and swapping out the grille for a TRD pro grille. I can't find anywhere to buy the TRD pro grille that fits my LE.

Leveling kit: Rough Country 2" Lift Kit for X-reas
 

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Exactly what I want to do, what 1.5 inch spring brand/part number did you go with?

I used the Sway Away (SAW) 1.5" spring which I think is no longer made. It's been a while but I think the equivalent was the Eibach T12 (please do your research before purchasing). I forget the spring rate, but it was 30% stiffer than the stock OEM spring. It paired nicely with my 5150s and I had no troubles with heavy gear in the back or even towing a 17' Winni.
 
Starting an overland build on 2016 LE

Newbie here. Would like some advice. What lift will give me the best option? Xreas will go. I will be replacing both front and rear bumpers with either steel or aluminum (haven’t decided on which). Changing from 20” wheels to 17”, Adding a winch, rooftop tent, side awning, Basically everything needed to make it into an overlander. It will be my daily driver. Roads during the week and off-road on the weekends. I would like not to loose the stance when loaded for trips and unloaded for every day use.
Thanks


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Starting an overland build on 2016 LE

Newbie here. Would like some advice. What lift will give me the best option? Xreas will go. I will be replacing both front and rear bumpers with either steel or aluminum (haven’t decided on which). Changing from 20” wheels to 17”, Adding a winch, rooftop tent, side awning, Basically everything needed to make it into an overlander. It will be my daily driver. Roads during the week and off-road on the weekends. I would like not to loose the stance when loaded for trips and unloaded for every day use.
Thanks

Hard to go wrong with Bilstein 6112/5160 and UCA setup. There's also Ironman 4x4 for another one stop shop, as well as Icon.

I recommend using a balljoint UCA like Dirt King's for availability of finding a replacement part at more stores across the country.

If you are going to push the truck hard, consider going to higher performance shocks like Kings, etc. Also, DuroBumps or similar progressive bump stops are a must.
 
I ordered a 21 Blizzard/Redwood and it should be arriving end of this month, i plan on just adding a 1/2" spacer in the front to get a 1" lift to level it out a little, and i'm looking to run FN FX wheels with 255/75/17 do you guys know anyone with this setup. Wonder if it'll look weird, i hope not since the stock wheels are 245mm wide.
 
The current state of things. I think I’m going to slow down with the tinkering for a while now.
 

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Hard to go wrong with Bilstein 6112/5160 and UCA setup. There's also Ironman 4x4 for another one stop shop, as well as Icon.

I recommend using a balljoint UCA like Dirt King's for availability of finding a replacement part at more stores across the country.

If you are going to push the truck hard, consider going to higher performance shocks like Kings, etc. Also, DuroBumps or similar progressive bump stops are a must.


Thanks for the information. What are the thoughts on ICON 0-3.5″ LIFT KIT STAGE 2 TUBULAR UCAS? Is that to much for what I’m looking for?


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