I've searched and read several articles but hoping I can get a little help here. I have a LED set in my 2000 Runner for the dual filament bulbs that has worked for the past year. I go in to drive the truck this morning and No Low Beams, the high beams only work with the Flash To pass option at which time the High Beam indicator will turn on. I rarely drive this truck so the bulbs have minimum hours on them but I was going to replace the HID kit in my Acura with the same LED kit I have in the runner since its a lot less wiring. I haven't had time to do any troubleshooting as I had to come to work this morning using only my fog lights to see. Any ideas of where to start. I will try putting stock bulbs back in this evening when I get home but what else should I check. Electrical is not my cup of tea but is the switch a possible issues since the HB work on flashing.
Low Beam issue on 2000 4Runner
- Thread starter GRNT4R00
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. Something easy to check. It did happen on my previous 1st gen Tacoma. Thank, im definitely going to check bulbs and fuses when I get home. Just hoping its simple and not the light switch itself. Would be great if there is a Yota tech on here from the Triad NC. I'd love to have a reliable mechanic in the area to help with some other things. Anyone from the Winston Salem area on board that is a Yota Tech?
IBallEngineer
New member
Does your truck have Day Time Running lights? If so the diagnosis is different. With DRL there are 4 fuses to the bulbs, plus others for the DRL relay. Without there are only two, don't forget the auto shut off is controlled by the instrument cluster. Before anything confirm the fuses are good using a test light or volt meter. Then try a good bulb.
Yes, it has the DRL lights. I unplugged the box for those last September when I installed the LED bulbs
For reference, this is the kit I went with. Of course in the correct bulb configuration. Im just linking the one for my Acura which is the same brand
https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Elite-Headlight-Bulbs-Conversion/dp/B01ITVCA68
For reference, this is the kit I went with. Of course in the correct bulb configuration. Im just linking the one for my Acura which is the same brand
https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Elite-Headlight-Bulbs-Conversion/dp/B01ITVCA68
Troubleshooting done.
All fuses are good.
Installed Stock bulb and same issue. Only works on Flash to pass
Reconnected the DRL module and the lights come on for DRL when the truck is running and the eBrake is down. If i turn on low beams or push the stalk forward for High beams, No luck.
I know its not the bulbs or fuses, so any idea of what is next. i have removed the Stalk and I'm sitting here now trying to determine if that may be the issue.
All fuses are good.
Installed Stock bulb and same issue. Only works on Flash to pass
Reconnected the DRL module and the lights come on for DRL when the truck is running and the eBrake is down. If i turn on low beams or push the stalk forward for High beams, No luck.
I know its not the bulbs or fuses, so any idea of what is next. i have removed the Stalk and I'm sitting here now trying to determine if that may be the issue.
So i just removed the stalk and took it apart. It was not dirty at all and all the contacts look great. I still took Q-tip and some alcohol and went over it just to be sure. reinstalled it and still no low/high beam. DRL's work and high only when flashing.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Here is your 2000 DRL EWD (98 in file name is page number).
First thing to do is get a test light or meter on those bulb contacts and see if you are missing ground or missing 12V+. That makes all the difference as to what comes next. Post back if you don't know how to do that.
First thing to do is get a test light or meter on those bulb contacts and see if you are missing ground or missing 12V+. That makes all the difference as to what comes next. Post back if you don't know how to do that.
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Should i put the test light inside the individual bulb connectors to see if it lights up when the stalk is turned to on? Just clarifying as electrical is not my cup of tea. I did verify that the bulbs work with DRL's on and flash but not in the normal light position. I can check this tomorrow after work for confirmation if the above is what you want me to test. At least reconnecting the DRL module will give me lights to get to work in the morning.
Also i do not have the auto light feature that i have read about. Thanks
IBallEngineer
New member
Using a test light or voltmeter, attach one lead to a known good ground and probe the connector to see if you have power when the switch is on. If there is power at either blue or green wire, depending on which side, connect your test lead to a good power source and probe the connector at the white with green stripe wire looking for a ground.
The system switches both power and ground, so El Durko is wanting to know which part is not working.
You say you don't have the auto off feature? So if you have the lights on and turn off the motor, then open the door, your lights stay on?
Yes correct, I have always had to manually turn my lights off when getting out of my truck. But I also was un aware that 4Runner's had that feature and have always manually turned off lights and if I looked back and noticed I left them on, i would open the door and turn them off. I cant say I have ever left them on longer than 10-30 secs to see if they would turn off on their own since owning it the past 15 years. Also my stalk doesn't have the fog light option on it. I will run those test this evening and maybe during lunch if I can get home. Luckily I was able to get to work with my DRL's this morning. I appreciate your time and El Durko's help with this.
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I turned the switch on and the headlights to the ON position( I did not start the truck) and tested the Green wire and the Blue wire while grounding the test light to the negative battery terminal and the light did not come on the light tester.
I put the light tester to the positive battery terminal and tested the White wire and the test light came on.
I performed these on the plug on the drivers side headlight. I switched high beams on and tested with same results.
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If there are any other test you can think of for me to perform, please let me know as I will be off Friday and hoping to work on this more along with another car. I will also be able to look at it later tonight. Tanks for your help so far. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
IBallEngineer
New member
Just to clarify what you tested, the blue wire was on the passenger side and the green wire was on the driver's side? When you switched the high beams on, you tested the red wires?
TheDurk
Elite Member
Also to clarify, when you said "white" wire, did you mean the white wire with green stripe that is the common ground?
Can you explain a little more how you disbled the DRLs? Is it possible the auto off worked before this was done?
I think the next thing to check is if the headlight relay is operating. I'm pretty sure it is not. Can you put a probe on Pin 3 hole of the Headlight Relay with the clip on battery positive with the lights on? Pull the relay to do this. I'd like to know if that relay coil is getting ground. If we're lucky, it's just a bad relay. If not, we move on.
Can you explain a little more how you disbled the DRLs? Is it possible the auto off worked before this was done?
I think the next thing to check is if the headlight relay is operating. I'm pretty sure it is not. Can you put a probe on Pin 3 hole of the Headlight Relay with the clip on battery positive with the lights on? Pull the relay to do this. I'd like to know if that relay coil is getting ground. If we're lucky, it's just a bad relay. If not, we move on.
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I may have misunderstood what you were asking. I testing the light socket on the driver side. The 3 prong brown connector. It had 3 wires going into it and I tested each one.
Yes, white wire with green stripe. I think the others were a Green wire with a stripe and a Blue wire with a red stripe if I remember correctly. I only tested the plug on the Drivers side. If I misunderstood the instructions, I apologize.
The DRL's were disabled by me unplugging the connector under the hood on the driver side right behind the battery. Its connected to a small box and the plug is gray. I just unplugged it and taped it up.
I never noticed an auto-off function but I never have had my lights on during the day time. I don't have a switch that states Auo-Off as on other vehicles unless there is no switch for it. I could be wrong as I have never been in the habit of getting out the truck and leaving lights on even in other vehicles with the auto off. ( my 1st car was a 67 mustang so after a dead battery and Dad talking to me years ago, I turn my lights on/off by myself : ) )
I can check the headlight relay as I am hoping its as simple as that being bad especially since the truck only had 117k on it and has been garaged all its life with no Off-roading. Should I be able to remove the replay and touch the light tester to prong 3 while the lights are on to test this? With Tester clip on the Positive Batt terminal.
Thanks guys. If I missed a question or clarification, let me know and im at work and going from memory of yesterday.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
Great, I will try to run that test later this evening. I can also take a pic of the plug and DRL box for reference. Also I only unplugged the DRL plug several months ago. Maybe early Feb or March. It may have an auto off feature I never knew about.
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Test Results.
Removed the HEAD relay and attached clip of test light to the positive battery terminal and stuck the other end to prong 3 where the relay would go and nothing.(No light on the Test Light). I did this with the truck off and running and the light stalk turned to lights on as well as with the stalked pushed forward for High Beams and both returned no light on the test light
I do have to run to a kids football game this evening so i may not be able to test anything else until later. if you think its the Head relay, i can look to pick up one from somewhere tomorrow? Do you think the dealer is the best bet as i don't think they have one in stock or would somewhere else be an option?
Or does that mean the light switch is not sending power to trigger the relay? Bad Light Switch?
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Twan
Senior Member
Oh man, I had fun trying to fix this on my truck. I ended up getting too frustrated and took it to a shop. Shop traced it back to the gauge cluster, but in doing so they created a problem where my highs got stuck on. Swapped out the cluster and a module under the dash on the drivers side, and my lights were back to functioning normally.
