Lubrication for underneath

I do the same.

I do my 4wd V8 on the ground. Just drive back and forth until the zerks are in an accessible location. (A hose adapter helps)

I pump the U joints until all the old grease is out and the new grease starts to come out. You will hear a crackling noise, that's the grease coming out.

Mobil 1 Grease is good stuff.

I follow what is said in this post. The hardest part is pulling the end off the nipple! I'm not sure why it's so difficult... I use Mobile 1 syth. It's good stuff as said.

On a side note, the clunk that I heard mentioned in another post is normal per toyota. It's designed to do that when coming to a stop. You don't want to fill front w/too much grease because this will cause issues from what I was told.
 
I follow what is said in this post. The hardest part is pulling the end off the nipple! I'm not sure why it's so difficult... I use Mobile 1 syth. It's good stuff as said.

On a side note, the clunk that I heard mentioned in another post is normal per toyota. It's designed to do that when coming to a stop. You don't want to fill front w/too much grease because this will cause issues from what I was told.

Overfilling REAR slip-yoke may cause issues. The front isn't critical for this issue.
:cheers:
 
I thought...

Overfilling REAR slip-yoke may cause issues. The front isn't critical for this issue.
:cheers:

The clunk from I was told (I thought) comes from the drive shaft going back into the transfer case and that's where you were not supposed to fill it full of grease.

Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm due to do mine again.
 
You guys sure do put a lot of though into lube. :banana:

I've got some super-duper purple Amsoil synthetic grease that I bought a case of to do the front axle rebuild on my Land Cruiser. Figure I'll use the same stuff on every zirk I can find under my 4runner.
 
Ok, I finally got this completed, thanks to everyone's help. I have a 2008 Sport Edition V6 4Runner, and I used the 2007 Repair Manual PDF from the Toyota website.

If anyone is inept at propeller shaft lubrication as I am (was), here is a quick break down.

What you need:
14oz Grease Gun w/ Flexible Hose (sometimes you have to buy flexible hose separately) and Nipple Attachment for application to Zerks
14oz tube of Mobile 1 Synthetic (or equivalent)
Something to prop your vehicle up with like a heavy duty floor jack
Some blocks or jack stands
rag or towel
-------------------

The biggest thing I was concerned about, with this operation:

1. accessibility to the underside of the vehicle
2. not overfilling the Sliding Yoke type of zerks

Be aware there are 3 types of Zerks. What the hell is a zerk you ask? Well, I didn't know either, but looked it up: A zerk fitting is used to lubricate mechanical parts that require grease. A zerk fitting is also called a grease fitting.

The 2 types of zerks on the 4runner are:

Propeller Shaft Slider
Propeller Shaft Sliding Yoke

Total amount of zerks that need lubricating: 6 (3 zerks per shaft)

[Please Note: the PDF from the 2007 Repair Manual is a bit confusing, as it shows a diagram for some other type of vehicle which doesn't match what I was seeing under my 4Runner. You might only have to refer to the top diagram, which shows only 2 zerks.]

Link to PDF from Repair Manual


The particular type of zerk that you need to be extra cautious with is the 'Sliding Yoke'. As others have stated above, it can be a bad thing if you shoot to much grease into this zerk.

Now that you're informed, you'll need to lift the vehicle, to create some room underneath. You can lift the vehicle however you are comfortable. Be aware that on the 4WD model, you can freely rotate (by hand) the front propeller shaft, but the back propeller shaft will not rotate, unless the rear wheels are off the ground.

I used the curb and one ramp (see image below) for this operation. It worked for me (i'm 6'2" about 175) but I can slide/fit into the most tiny areas without a problem. Probably not the most efficient way, but this method of ramp+curb was certainly the cheapest that I could find at the house. I don't have a jack, nor do I have jack-stands.

This meant that I would not be able to hand turn the rear propeller shaft but that turned out to be ok. There is plenty of room above the end of the shaft (where the zerks are located), that I could reach up and around to the top of the shaft without a problem.

As I mentioned earlier, there are 3 zerks on each propeller shaft. On the front propeller shaft, there is 1 (one) zerk on the front of the shaft that faces towards front of vehcile and 2 (two) zerks on the rear.

On the rear propeller shaft, there are 2 (two) zerks on the front of the shaft that faces towards front of vehicle and 1 (one) zerk on the rear.

That makes for a total of 6 (six) zerks that need lubrication. Again, be careful with the zerks that are identified as the 'Sliding Yoke' types. You do not want to overfill these, as they can cause problems with your vehicle operation.

For me, I performed this operation at 23,000 miles. I should have performed it at 10,000 miles as indicated by the scheduled maintenance guide that came with my vehicle. But I am comfortable that no damage has been caused.

1. I started with the rear propeller shaft and slid under my vehicle from the rear, under the bumper. I placed some towels on the ground to keep my shirt clean and just crawled under there with the grease gun. Because I could not rotate the rear shaft (rear wheels were on the ground) I had to reach up and locate the zerks, as they happened to be turned facing upward (towards sky) and away from me. They were easy to locate with my hand. I cleaned each nozzle with a rag, then pressed the grease gun nozzle onto the zerk. Then I pumped the grease gun several times (see blow for exact amounts).

2. For the front propeller shaft, I moved the towels and accessed the underside from the driver side of the vehicle. The shaft is easier to reach from the drivers side. I did the same thing here. Located the zerks, cleaned them off with a rag, then applied some grease.

Rear of the Rear Shaft:
zerk 1 - (slider) - 3 squeezes of trigger

Front of the Rear Shaft
zerk 2 - (slider) - 3 squeezes of trigger
zerk 3 - (sliding yoke) - 2 squeezes of trigger

Rear of the Front Shaft:
zerk 4 - (slider) - 3 squeezes of trigger
zerk 5 - (sliding yoke) - 3 squeezes of trigger

Front of Front Shaft:
zerk 6 - (slider) 2.5 squeezes of trigger

[Please Note: The squeeze amounts are what was required for my vehicle. The amount of lubrication your vehicle requires may vary quite a bit, and it depends on the type of grease gun you are using as well.]

prop.jpg
 
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Thanks for the details and write-up r32.

[Please Note: the PDF from the 2007 Repair Manual is a bit confusing, as it shows a diagram for some other type of vehicle which doesn't match what I was seeing under my 4Runner. You might only have to refer to the top diagram, which shows only 2 zerks.]

Link to PDF from Repair Manual

Don't know why Toyota shows the double cardan joint in the repair manual. The 4th gen does not have a double cardan joint.
 
Thanks for the details and write-up r32.

Don't know why Toyota shows the double cardan joint in the repair manual. The 4th gen does not have a double cardan joint.

That is what confused me so much at first, since I had not ever done this procedure before. The lower diagram shows 3 zerks on a joint that is clearly some other vehicle. But I keep trying to find it under my 4th Gen. Felt like a fool not being able to locate it. lol.
 
Why do we do this? Well, the driveshaft and u-joints do move, and lubrication/grease is going to make the parts last longer.

But mostly if you don't, there's a tendency for a drive line "clunk" in Toyota's. Maybe the splines are too tight, maybe there was not enough lubrication, maybe it was a defect in design.

But when you "stop" you may feel the clunk, or when you let your foot off the brake a half-second before the transmission engages you'll feel it.
 
Is this only required on the 4wd models? I looks for zert fittings on the driveshaft of my 06 Sport 2wd and couldn't find any.
 
Is this only required on the 4wd models? I looks for zert fittings on the driveshaft of my 06 Sport 2wd and couldn't find any.

For whatever unknown reason, the 2WD doesn't have zerks on the driveshaft. My '05 Taco PreRunner doesn't have them either.
 
I use the AmsOil synthec grease. If you have a flexible tube on your grease gun, you should be able to access all the zerk fittings without have to rotate the rear shaft.
 
I follow what is said in this post. The hardest part is pulling the end off the nipple! I'm not sure why it's so difficult... I use Mobile 1 syth. It's good stuff as said.

Just did this last night and can confirm this. Why in the world is it so hard to get the grease gun off the zerk? I thought for sure I was going to break something!

While I was under there I found I also have a torn CV boot. Hitting 90,000 miles on this car has not been a good experience so far!
 
Just did this last night and can confirm this. Why in the world is it so hard to get the grease gun off the zerk? I thought for sure I was going to break something!

While I was under there I found I also have a torn CV boot. Hitting 90,000 miles on this car has not been a good experience so far!

Thanks R32 for the writeup!

Honestly this is very easy, the hardest part i had was getting the grease fitting on the zerk.
Just have to push real hard.
 
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No problem. Indeed it is a pain the ass to get the grease gun OFF the zerk. I had to pull super hard and of course I scraped my hand in the process when it finally released. Ouch.
 
I just did my driveshaft/chassis lubrication last night at 27,500 miles on the ODO. I used the Lithium / Moly Lithium Valvoline. Everything went well and thank you to everyone that posted links and pic's it made it easy for me. I did notice that when i started up my vehicle afterwards a little white smoke and a burning smell came from the exhaust. Has anyone else had this happen to them? i wonder if a little lub got on the exhaust pipe and it is just burning off. Not sure though. The same thing this morning when i started up for work and pulling in to the parking deck the burning smell.


Edit: smell and smoke resolved. A little grease must of flung off on to the exhaust and burned off.__________________
 
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Thanks R32!

Had my laptop in the garage and re-read your post just before ducking under the truck. Everything worked out perfectly! (Which says a lot considering my natural talent for screwing things up).
 
A Little Light

I realize this thread is growing grey hair, but I may be able to shed some light on the reason for two different greases listed for drive shaft lubrication.

Moly augmented lithium greases are much more "slippery" than the base lithium greases and in roller bearings can allow the rollers to slide instead of rolling and wear a flat spot on the roller(s) and make the bearing noisy and cause it to wear prematurely. Sliding splines benefit from the increased slickness and (I assume) the double cardan joint is some form of needle bearing which also benefit more than they suffer.

This being said, I am in agreement with the general consensus and use the moly augmented #2 high speed grease in my gun and only use one gun for all the chassis joints. I am far more concerned about wear from water contamination, rust and lack of lubrication than bearing roller slide wear. I suspect we do far more damage to the U-joints off-roading than using moly lubes.

Bear
 

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