Maximize your KDSS + extended travel shocks

Can't wait to hear some reviews from multiple rigs. I'll definitely be ordering this with my lift

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KDSS Lean?

I went down this path in 2016 after installing Icon Stage 6 and getting some major KDSS lean. I tried all the KDSS tricks like bleeding, calibrating, etc. Nothing helped, still leans. The next step was making extension blocks like these. I couldn't figure out the optimum block height so I settled on 50% of the lift height, 3" * 0.5=1.5" Then I lost access to my CNC and moved it to the back burner. I'm curious about your block height and underlying calculations. Do you think this would fix the KDSS lean? My research and understanding of the mechanism suggest it should help but I never completed my blocks to test it out. By the way, my Icon track bar still rubs. I'm so glad you made this work and are going to sell some. I'll buy a set!
 
I went down this path in 2016 after installing Icon Stage 6 and getting some major KDSS lean. I tried all the KDSS tricks like bleeding, calibrating, etc. Nothing helped, still leans. The next step was making extension blocks like these. I couldn't figure out the optimum block height so I settled on 50% of the lift height, 3" * 0.5=1.5" Then I lost access to my CNC and moved it to the back burner. I'm curious about your block height and underlying calculations. Do you think this would fix the KDSS lean? My research and understanding of the mechanism suggest it should help but I never completed my blocks to test it out. By the way, my Icon track bar still rubs. I'm so glad you made this work and are going to sell some. I'll buy a set!



The blocks don’t do anything for kdss lean. It simply lowers it 1.25” down.


Edit: dang I just woke up and figured something out about how I can fix the kdss lean. I’ll need to mind f’it a little more and make something.




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Last edited:
This is awesome, I have a sonoran steel bar already, do you think it would interfere if I added these as well? If not im in for a pair.
 
Of course ppl are going to say oh I could have or would have came up with that [emoji24][emoji24]. [emoji849]

115754fbd8f3f312db87297a1ffa9588.jpg

[emoji1432][emoji1432][emoji1432][emoji1432]
That’s full droop with extended travel king shocks that measure 25 3/4” from center of lower eye to frame at the top where the pin top lower bushing rest. That’s 1/4” more then what’s available. And if one wanted to, you can run even longer as there still room for the system to swing and doesn’t come close to inverting the kdss system which will basically pull the plunger out the kdss shock.

Ok this my version of how to maximize the kdss equipped 4runners that have a lift and extended travel shocks. I know there’s that Sonoran steel zigzag track bar. But it just wasn’t for me. Plus the tolerances are tight. If you don’t run stock length links or if your axle isn’t in same location as stock, things will crash into each other. I personally didn’t like that , and the look of it. It could also have better joints as well. Totally not taking anything away from it as it’s an awesome idea. It just wasn’t for me.

Originally I was going to do my own version of a bent track bar ( and did ) but when I was test fitting it, a light bulb went off in my head. I got together with a long time friend Don Thuren ( thuren fabrication ) and came up with this. It works like a charm.

Here’s a link to my instagram so you can see a video on it.

Dom R on Instagram: “Here we go.... prototype kdss drop!!! Posting for time stamp while lawyers put together and file the patents. .. This is my fix for the…”

You can now run a straight track bar. Even the stock one which I have on the truck now. With that said I’ll make a straight track bar that utilizes more superior joints then what factory comes with. If you know about factory style bushing / joints. You know that it’s not designed for anything longer stock suspension travel.

This post is for a time stamp!!! [emoji1420]

More pics

Full droop. Extended travel King shocks
9df8fb4f74a4a7dfdc8c6bd754745cb6.jpg


Full bump/
Compression. You can see that it’s still higher then the fuel cell.
0ddc5486ff9602c8242160a9abd819e3.jpg


Full articulation . Yes that’s a harbor freight floor jack. Don’t hate lol.
303f436a3787a0310188875ad0e78e9c.jpg



Edit
I forgot to post pic with the spare tire to show the amount of room there is. I’m not sure but can somewhat confirm if it looks like there’s more room now with the drop piece I made.

Ride height on 2” lift.
f2d530f96b79afd97675a444d4d77b22.jpg


Full droop.
60856cb1232f9111a90da1a0d32e2439.jpg


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Price range???????
 
I will have enough for 100 trucks In about 30 days. They will be 6061 t6 billet smooth glossy black powder coated. And I will have some raw version as well and might play around with some anodizing.

This was my question, I can see the prototypes look 3D printed. Do they require extended bolts?

Powdercoat is definitely more durable than plain anodize, though it will change the dimensions and tolerance slightly. Plus it's UV stable (though you won't really need to worry about anodize dye fading when it's under the truck, away from sunlight).
 
Will we need extended brake lines??



Nope. I will have instructions on how to bend the brake line brackets down ward as well as the abs lines. With that said I’ll make us a extended brake line kit for cool factor and of course function.


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This was my question, I can see the prototypes look 3D printed. Do they require extended bolts?



Powdercoat is definitely more durable than plain anodize, though it will change the dimensions and tolerance slightly. Plus it's UV stable (though you won't really need to worry about anodize dye fading when it's under the truck, away from sunlight).



It’s going to be anodized in black actually. Yeah I didn’t want to powder coat. Especially like you said it won’t fade under there. Yes they will come with longer bolts. I already sourced them.


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so like i said on IG, when's the front fix coming to put the sway bar in a neutral position on the LCA bushing bracket? :)



Totally will do something to fix that.

Oh dude what’s your gram again. I remember talking with you.


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The height won’t really matter. It’s your shocks that will be the limiting factor. So if they are 25 3/4” - 26” fully extended measured from center of lower eyelet or bolt up to the top of the lower bushing at the pin top mount on the frame. If you can get that spec before hand then you should be good. I’m pretty sure no one really makes anything longer then that anyway for the kdss because no one has been able to pull more then that prior to this part.

Sonoran steel zig zag bar is maxed out at 25 1/2”. And any more with that setup the kdss will invert itself. Mine still has more to go.


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Thanks for the info. The shocks I'm installing are the Fox 985-24-118
PERFORMANCE SERIES 2.0 SMOOTH BODY RESERVOIR SHOCK | Truck Shocks | FOX

And I already have the ICON adjustable track bar, but it doesn't rub or hit the KDSS bar with my current 2" set up and the 5100s. We'll see what happens with the extra travel, as folks have said on this thread that it can rub the more travel introduced in the system.

Great idea and product, can't wait to see what the results are. Excellent work.
 
Good stuff, Finally found someone has the same thought!
 

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I went down this path in 2016 after installing Icon Stage 6 and getting some major KDSS lean. I tried all the KDSS tricks like bleeding, calibrating, etc. Nothing helped, still leans. The next step was making extension blocks like these. I couldn't figure out the optimum block height so I settled on 50% of the lift height, 3" * 0.5=1.5" Then I lost access to my CNC and moved it to the back burner. I'm curious about your block height and underlying calculations. Do you think this would fix the KDSS lean? My research and understanding of the mechanism suggest it should help but I never completed my blocks to test it out. By the way, my Icon track bar still rubs. I'm so glad you made this work and are going to sell some. I'll buy a set!

No offense.
Just to share my experience.

I’ve done this in 2017, the lean in the front is about 10 mm only. I’ll say it definitely helps.

The way I think is, if you didn’t add the pad to the rear, there will be more pressure in the rear to pull down the KDSS cylinder, and since the front and rear KDSS path are connected, it may create opposite pressure in pushing up the front cylinder and then make the lean worse.

The pad actually helps releasing unexpected pressure to the KDSS cylinder caused by the lift.

My 2 cents.
 

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