Maybe about to purchase, need advice

[twomonkeysayoyo]

So I went and looked at this 4runner that was local and cheap. It is a 1999 4x4 Limited, 197,000 miles. Took some pictures and was wondering if you see anything alarming. All the electronics seemed to work including the rear locker, antenna, rear window, seats, a/c etc... Thanks for helping. There should be 12 pictures in that gallery, but they may still be trying to upload.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103547341307721024703/albums/5915380123609535025

 

[txbonds]

I'd guess around $2,500 to $3,500 range given condition, mileage and location. Front bumper is rusted, and the underside looks like its maybe seeing some leaking or seeping. Check my build thread for the one i bought a few months back for a comparison. Looks about par for the course and as long as your not afraid to roll up the sleeves and fix what needs it, looks like a decent truck to me.

 

[TRDteen]

So I went and looked at this 4runner that was local and cheap. It is a 1999 4x4 Limited, 197,000 miles. Took some pictures and was wondering if you see anything alarming. All the electronics seemed to work including the rear locker, antenna, rear window, seats, a/c etc... Thanks for helping. There should be 12 pictures in that gallery, but they may still be trying to upload.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103547341307721024703/albums/5915380123609535025

ask for the maintenance records. before you think about buying it.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

I'd guess around $2,500 to $3,500 range given condition, mileage and location. Front bumper is rusted, and the underside looks like its maybe seeing some leaking or seeping. Check my build thread for the one i bought a few months back for a comparison. Looks about par for the course and as long as your not afraid to roll up the sleeves and fix what needs it, looks like a decent truck to me.

Ok, this is the first thing I'll have owned with a driveshaft that I wouldn't take to someone else to fix (I come from the Aircooled VW world). Those leaking things down there, namely forward of the transfer case, what's that mean? I plan on using this thing to go camping and get me to work on a daily basis (I live 2 miles from work) so I don't have to rely on my 5th gen so much. The motor had a lot of life in it, the tranny shifted strong. The only rust I can find on it was that front bumper. Sills looked good, channels, etc... granted this was the first 3rd gen I've ever driven. Just need a reliable toy.

 

[BrianSD_42]

195,000 miles ... take it to a mechanic for a compression test - be sure to write down the #s. It should only cost $75 max.

My 4Runner (and I'm far from alone) suffered a cracked head failure at 199,800 miles. Even if it comes back clean that doesn't predict the next several years but if you can catch it before you buy it that would be ideal.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

195,000 miles ... take it to a mechanic for a compression test - be sure to write down the #s. It should only cost $75 max.

My 4Runner (and I'm far from alone) suffered a cracked head failure at 199,800 miles. Even if it comes back clean that doesn't predict the next several years but if you can catch it before you buy it that would be ideal.

Why would I take it to someone to do the compression test? Are they hard to do on this motor? It's just screw the gauge into a spark plug hole and crank it with the battery disconnected, right?

 

[txbonds]

Ok, this is the first thing I'll have owned with a driveshaft that I wouldn't take to someone else to fix (I come from the Aircooled VW world). Those leaking things down there, namely forward of the transfer case, what's that mean? I plan on using this thing to go camping and get me to work on a daily basis (I live 2 miles from work) so I don't have to rely on my 5th gen so much. The motor had a lot of life in it, the tranny shifted strong. The only rust I can find on it was that front bumper. Sills looked good, channels, etc... granted this was the first 3rd gen I've ever driven. Just need a reliable toy.

Not sure. Mine looks like that on bottom but best I can tell much of it was from sloppy servicing and refills. That said, I had a leaking gasket in my upper end. Replaced them and I'm still not sure that I don't have other leaks. I need to degrease, scrub the bottom and engine on mine so I can rule out any additional problems.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

TXBonds, I love your responses and your build. Thanks for the advice, motivation and inspiration.

 

[A.Wilson013]

My first question is WTF are those bolts going into the tops of the manifold?! Edit** I cannot stop looking at them. Please ask him what they are... I am VERY curious.

Also, check out the body panels. Each and every one should have a sticker with the VIN number on it. IF it doesn't, or the VIN doesn't match, it has been replaced.

Make an account on www.Toyota.Com/Owners and register the VIN of the 4Runner. Any maintenance done by the dealer will be listed on that site.

Why would I take it to someone to do the compression test? Are they hard to do on this motor? It's just screw the gauge into a spark plug hole and crank it with the battery disconnected, right?

No need to take it to the mechanic for the test, if you're capable of running it. ( Which apparently you are.)

Most newcomers to the forum would be asking what a compression test was... I imagine that's why Brian approached it as he did.

 

[BrianSD_42]

No need to take it to the mechanic for the test, if you're capable of running it. ( Which apparently you are.)

Most newcomers to the forum would be asking what a compression test was... I imagine that's why Brian approached it as he did.

Yes exactly. Plus I assumed the seller would not be ok with you messing under the hood. I know if someone told me they wanted to do that on my "for sale" rig I would prefer they just took it somewhere.

I didn't think that even the average T4R.org member has a properly calibrated gauge for doing this type of thing. I've never done it and don't own the gauges but YES I understand that it isn't very difficult if you have the gear.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

Yes exactly. Plus I assumed the seller would not be ok with you messing under the hood. I know if someone told me they wanted to do that on my "for sale" rig I would prefer they just took it somewhere.

I didn't think that even the average T4R.org member has a properly calibrated gauge for doing this type of thing. I've never done it and don't own the gauges but YES I understand that it isn't very difficult if you have the gear.

Seller has encouraged me to take it to a mechanic to look over it. And what about those bolts! I didn't even see them. I'll have to ask. Big thanks for the toyota owners link, too. And the reason I ask about the compression check is that I would just go down to autozone and rent their tool. I've never done it on a motor that didn't have carbs. Also, I guess I'm just used to a more combative, "DIY" forum.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Seller has encouraged me to take it to a mechanic to look over it. And what about those bolts! I didn't even see them. I'll have to ask. Big thanks for the toyota owners link, too. And the reason I ask about the compression check is that I would just go down to autozone and rent their tool. I've never done it on a motor that didn't have carbs. Also, I guess I'm just used to a more combative, "DIY" forum.

Most of us here prefer the DIY approach, but also respect those that are less inclined to DIY, and have enough expendable income to pay someone with a bit more knowledge to do things for them. I don't care how things get done, so long as they're done correctly.

 

[02SE]

My first question is WTF are those bolts going into the tops of the manifold?! Edit** I cannot stop looking at them. Please ask him what they are... I am VERY curious.

When I worked on consumer cars for a living, I saw some amazingly ridiculous mickey mouse repairs.

Enlarging the pic, it looks to me that someone that has no business using tools, apparently stripped the holes for the bolts that hold the upper and lower intake manifold together.

Instead of fixing it properly, with a Time-sert, Helicoil, etc. they got carried away and drilled right through the upper and lower intake manifold ports, and installed bolts to hold the two halves together.

Based on their level of expertise, there is probably a stack of flat washers on the bolt shanks, to space the upper and lower manifold apart when those bolts were tightened.

I'd be very surprised if they managed to seal all of the holes drilled through the intake ports, successfully. So there is likely unfiltered air being sucked into the engine, past the bolt shanks.

We won't even talk about the fact that the airflow to the engine is now greatly reduced, by the bolt shanks that are effectively blocking a large percentage of the intake ports.

All-in-all an amazingly half-assed 'repair'.

My advice is to run away from this vehicle.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

When I worked on consumer cars for a living, I saw some amazingly ridiculous mickey mouse repairs.

Enlarging the pic, it looks to me that someone that has no business using tools, apparently stripped the holes for the bolts that hold the upper and lower intake manifold together.

Instead of fixing it properly, with a Time-sert, Helicoil, etc. they got carried away and drilled right through the upper and lower intake manifold ports, and installed bolts to hold the two halves together.

Based on their level of expertise, there is probably a stack of flat washers on the bolt shanks, to space the upper and lower manifold apart when those bolts were tightened.

I'd be very surprised if they managed to seal all of the holes drilled through the intake ports, successfully. So there is likely unfiltered air being sucked into the engine, past the bolt shanks.

We won't even talk about the fact that the airflow to the engine is now greatly reduced, by the bolt shanks that are effectively blocking a large percentage of the intake ports.

All-in-all an amazingly half-assed 'repair'.

My advice is to run away from this vehicle.

My first thought when it was pointed out was "Nitrous". Anyway, I posted a more zoomed in pic of the 'repair' in question. Clearly not a good sign. If they aren't glued on, I'm gone.

 

[02SE]

My first thought when it was pointed out was "Nitrous". Anyway, I posted a more zoomed in pic of the 'repair' in question. Clearly not a good sign. If they aren't glued on, I'm gone.

That it might be an attempt to plug holes used for the nozzles of an N2O system, also occurred to me.

But, a stock 5VZ-FE would never handle the amount of N2O that would be supplied by a system necessitating a nozzle in each individual intake runner. If the engine were built to handle such a system, it would be a major selling point, and any self respecting engine builder would mention that fact. Also, If that were the case, they wouldn't use such large, low-grade bolts to plug the holes.

Then I noticed that the bolts that would normally be holding the halves together, appear to be missing.

That's when their ineptitude became more clear.

If I were looking at that engine bay, I'd laugh in the sellers face, and then. :bolt:

There are decent 4Runners out there. Keep looking.

 

[twomonkeysayoyo]

I will (walk away), thanks. Feedback like this is what makes forums like these so helpful. I never would have seen those and don't have enough experience with these motors to even know they are out of place. Of course once they are pointed out they kind of scream 'wtf', but I definitely needed that pointed out. Funny, I thought that would be the most useless of the pics. Thanks everyone. I'm sure it won't be long before I've got something else to point and laugh at.