MetalTech long travel rear

[Scott@Hightech]

While i cant comment on how it actually performs, I have installed the long travel rear suspension and the Shocks and springs are MUCH longer than the standard 3" springs. Id say the shocks were about 8" longer.The springs were much longer but compressed to achieve about the normal lift. Do note that there seems to be a lack of "uptravel" there were 4-5 coils that were all touching.


It would be interesting to see how KDSS interacted with the long travel suspension as the swa bar was the limiting factor in that setup, rather than the rear shocks

 

[Intruder]

EasilyConfused that has wheeled with Intruder has them on his TE with Icon Extended Travel. I wonder if Intruder has any insight if he runs them. Intruder?? I'm thinking about jumping on them as I'm going to go with the Icon Extended Travel suspension with Light Racing UCAs in the very near future.

I have a little jingle in my pockets at the moment. After September 30 maybe not so much.

I think both [MENTION=77842]EasylyConfused[/MENTION] and I are running the Icon Extended Travel front coils but not the MetalTech rear long travel kit, which is a night and day comparison.

 

[EasylyConfused]

Here are some reasons why you might want to dot he long travel kit.

CruiserFest 2013

Oh how I love everything about that truck! Especially that rear bumper. Is that the shrockworks front, or is that also from CBI?

EasilyConfused that has wheeled with Intruder has them on his TE with Icon Extended Travel. I wonder if Intruder has any insight if he runs them. Intruder?? I'm thinking about jumping on them as I'm going to go with the Icon Extended Travel suspension with Light Racing UCAs in the very near future.

I have a little jingle in my pockets at the moment. After September 30 maybe not so much.

Yeah, as Intruder said, we both run extended travel, not the long travel. I think the extended travel is less then an extra inch of travel over stock, from what I understand the long travel is substantially more. I'm not ready to lose my sway bars just yet, but when I am, it is very likely I'll be going with the metaltech/icon kit. I am extremely happy with both the Icon shocks, and the metaltech lower arms that are in the group buy right now. They seem really well built.

 

[WarnerD9]

While i cant comment on how it actually performs, I have installed the long travel rear suspension and the Shocks and springs are MUCH longer than the standard 3" springs. Id say the shocks were about 8" longer.The springs were much longer but compressed to achieve about the normal lift. Do note that there seems to be a lack of "uptravel" there were 4-5 coils that were all touching.


It would be interesting to see how KDSS interacted with the long travel suspension as the swa bar was the limiting factor in that setup, rather than the rear shocks

Plan on ditching your rear sway bar. Keeping it on would completely defeat the purpose of having a LT rear suspension. KDSS is a great theory but terrible if you plan on significant modifications or extreme performance. Just saying. I bought it on mine and I wish I hadn't. It would have saved me a ton of money and headache.

 

[Intruder]

Plan on ditching your rear sway bar. Keeping it on would completely defeat the purpose of having a LT rear suspension. KDSS is a great theory but terrible if you plan on significant modifications or extreme performance. Just saying. I bought it on mine and I wish I hadn't. It would have saved me a ton of money and headache.

Did you just yank the sway bar or did you have to pull the entire KDSS system out? Now that I'm out of warranty if something goes wrong with it I won't pay to fix the KDSS since going LT will probably not be much more expensive.

 

[WarnerD9]

Did you just yank the sway bar or did you have to pull the entire KDSS system out? Now that I'm out of warranty if something goes wrong with it I won't pay to fix the KDSS since going LT will probably not be much more expensive.

Haha, I actually stuffed it up next to the frame. I'm working on a solution to run just the front or I'll do the full long travel in front as well.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Haha, I actually stuffed it up next to the frame. I'm working on a solution to run just the front or I'll do the full long travel in front as well.

By long travel are you talking about Icon's "extended travel" front coilovers? I believe they give an extra 7/8" of droop travel, unless I'm mixing that up with the rear specs.

I have front and rear ext travels from MT/Icon that SHOULD be going on this week. I'm moving a few miles away this weekend so we'll see if I find the time.

 

[WarnerD9]

I already have the extended travel in front, it works pretty well, no real complaints but I wish I would ave gone with the resivors. I was referring to switching to the full long travel front setup similar to what the MetalTech 4Runner is running.

Good luck with the move and the install.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

I already have the extended travel in front, it works pretty well, no real complaints but I wish I would ave gone with the resivors. I was referring to switching to the full long travel front setup similar to what the MetalTech 4Runner is running.

Good luck with the move and the install.

Thanks man!

I went with the reservoirs all around so I could get that CDC. Really looking forward to seeing how it performs. I really need to update my "build" thread (if you can even call it that at this point). I got some decent pics at a local trail from this past weekend.

After talking with joneseyyy, he said strive for +4 caster but he was only able to get +2 with his, and also have the alignment guy go neutral toe and camber. What alignment specs are you running? I went with the Icon tubular UCAs which apparently have less adjustability in alignment than the billets, so we'll see.

Secondly, did you install the MT ext travel kit in the rear by yourself? Anything special you/the shop did during it (besides disconnecting ABS line temporarily and putting on the new extended brake lines)? I just want to make 150% sure that my dash isn't going to be lighting up like a Christmas tree post-install.

 

[SOcalTRAIL]

Plan on ditching your rear sway bar. Keeping it on would completely defeat the purpose of having a LT rear suspension. KDSS is a great theory but terrible if you plan on significant modifications or extreme performance. Just saying. I bought it on mine and I wish I hadn't. It would have saved me a ton of money and headache.

Man. isn't this the truth.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Thanks man!

I went with the reservoirs all around so I could get that CDC. Really looking forward to seeing how it performs. I really need to update my "build" thread (if you can even call it that at this point). I got some decent pics at a local trail from this past weekend.

After talking with joneseyyy, he said strive for +4 caster but he was only able to get +2 with his, and also have the alignment guy go neutral toe and camber. What alignment specs are you running? I went with the Icon tubular UCAs which apparently have less adjustability in alignment than the billets, so we'll see.

Secondly, did you install the MT ext travel kit in the rear by yourself? Anything special you/the shop did during it (besides disconnecting ABS line temporarily and putting on the new extended brake lines)? I just want to make 150% sure that my dash isn't going to be lighting up like a Christmas tree post-install.

Joneseyyy's UCAs are not adjustable, The tubular (total chaos like) arms are not. Both are uniball though. The light racing is more adjustable than both yet doesnt Flex as well due to the ball joint design.

In the rear yes disconnect all the ABS wires and unbolt the brake line brackets( Or install the brake lines first). You shouldnt have to disconnect the Driveshaft, but loosening the Rear control arm bolts(all 4 at the axle) will make it easier to get the springs in.

 

[DannyLlama]

Regarding the installation, aside from a proper alignment a good brake bleed, you should be able to do it yourself.

That's what I was referring to when I asked what major modification is involved...I just couldn't remember what it was... The sway bar..

Excuse my ignorance here but there are 2? Front and back? To achieve maximum travel, wouldn't both have to be disconnected?

How would that impact on road performance? More chance of a roll at high speeds or more of just a bumpy ride?

Plan on ditching your rear sway bar. Keeping it on would completely defeat the purpose of having a LT rear suspension. KDSS is a great theory but terrible if you plan on significant modifications or extreme performance. Just saying. I bought it on mine and I wish I hadn't. It would have saved me a ton of money and headache.

 

[phillyd2]

To achieve maximum travel, wouldn't both have to be disconnected?

Depends on how you want to use the truck. The only point to all this is traction by maintaining tire / ground contact. I would think for 80-90% of us having at least one rear tire in contact would be enough. Doubley true with rear lockers. While I too have some interest in LT rears I would be lying if I said I really needed them.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

Joneseyyy's UCAs are not adjustable, The tubular (total chaos like) arms are not. Both are uniball though. The light racing is more adjustable than both yet doesnt Flex as well due to the ball joint design.

In the rear yes disconnect all the ABS wires and unbolt the brake line brackets( Or install the brake lines first). You shouldnt have to disconnect the Driveshaft, but loosening the Rear control arm bolts(all 4 at the axle) will make it easier to get the springs in.

With that being said, since I'm going to be running Icon tubular UCAs, what alignment specs should I give the tech?

Thanks a lot for chiming in by the way! It's always helpful when guys that know WAY more than me have something to say.

 

[KVA]

With Icon Tubular UCA's I was able to get +3.9 on both sides, all within factory recommended specs.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

With that being said, since I'm going to be running Icon tubular UCAs, what alignment specs should I give the tech?

Thanks a lot for chiming in by the way! It's always helpful when guys that know WAY more than me have something to say.

The Ideal settings are still the same, Results may vary though. I couldnt get Joneseyyy's up that high with out excessive camber.

 

[SOcalTRAIL]

That's what I was referring to when I asked what major modification is involved...I just couldn't remember what it was... The sway bar..

Excuse my ignorance here but there are 2? Front and back? To achieve maximum travel, wouldn't both have to be disconnected?

How would that impact on road performance? More chance of a roll at high speeds or more of just a bumpy ride?

I havn't had a front or rear sway bar for almost a year and have never had any issues with stability. Mind you, I don't drive my 6,000 lb 4x4 like a sports car :biggrin1:

Also, I have the ability to turn the compression bypass tubes on my front and rear shocks and make the ride pretty darn stiff, so that does indeed help.

 

[Alex T4R]

With that being said, since I'm going to be running Icon tubular UCAs, what alignment specs should I give the tech?

Thanks a lot for chiming in by the way! It's always helpful when guys that know WAY more than me have something to say.

You want the best advice from me and my experience, especially when you spent a buck for quality parts, spend some time and a little bit of money on gas and go to High Tech Auto and Truck Center and let Scott install your parts, you will never have a headache after that, I was in couple other shops and still dealing with issues.

 

[swimmerdude1127]

You want the best advice from me and my experience, especially when you spent a buck for quality parts, spend some time and a little bit of money on gas and go to High Tech Auto and Truck Center and let Scott install your parts, you will never have a headache after that, I was in couple other shops and still dealing with issues.

First of all, thanks much for your input and advice.

With all due respect to High Tech, I don't understand why so many people are recommending them so strongly. Every single person I have talked to regarding this lift tells me it's a VERY straightforward install and someone who is mechanically inclined, can follow directions, and observe common sense caution could install this lift. I've even thought about doing it myself (but I'm not).

So my big question is if it's so straightforward, how are there so many issues with other places? I'm not trying to be rhetorical, and again no offense to High Tech. I'm sure they do amazing work, but I don't quite comprehend how something that's so "straightforward" also needs the best of the best to install it.

Without mentioning specific prices out of respect, MetalTech charges a HUGE amount less for the exact same install (but that's in Oregon).

You guys all recommending High Tech so strongly is really pushing me to go up there, but I'm still trying to learn WHY.

 

[KVA]

I think it simply a question of "risk".

High Tech is a known entity that has consistently delivered quality work. If your proposed outcome is to ensure everything is done right the first time then they would be a good choice based on the collective experience of others. Any other choice is an "unknown" so the outcome could be great or it could be a disaster.

Living on the West cost and having gone through the experience of using a somewhat reputable installer who ended up botching the job and not being able to align my truck - wasting a lot of my time and effort - something we usually don't equate to $$$ - makes it easy to justify the cost. If I could go back and re-do everything, I would drive 60 miles and sit in the heat knowing my install was done correct vs. the BS I had to go through AND drive 60 miles one way to fix it all.

There are lots of places that are cheaper at doing an install and unfortunately those places aren't where we happen to live.