MetalTech long travel rear
- Thread starter Qjake
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Alex T4R
New member
I got simple answer for you, installing the parts are straight forward, but alignment is not. I got defective UCA so SPC send me new ones, I asked them to find a shop closer to me because I had no time to drive back to High Tech not that I didn't want it is just hard with two jobs and school, so they found a shop that specialized in modifying jeeps and work on some toyotas. So I went over there and they couldn't get the specs correct and I had to come back again and they still couldn't get it right. It is not that it is hard, but not a lot of shop deals with truck like ours around east coast so it is just not knowing how compare to someone who is an expert like Scott
Ducmonsta
New member
It is a very straight forward installations. Most things are. If you have the tools, know how, and common sense. It's also about value. Is it worth taking your weekend to install a lift kit? Do you already have the tools or know someone that does? Are you confident enough to drive it somewhere that can align it properly? It's all about convenience and service.
I just recently had to pay *gasp* Jiffy Lube to change my oil. I was in a hotel for 2 weeks and I didn't want to wait until I moved into our home (just completed a 3300 mile cross country trek). So for me, that kinda hurt knowing that I have the skills and tools to do it. I even had my drain pan in my truck during the trip. So, I could have easily done my own oil service in the parking lot of the hotel before anyone could complain about it. So, it was worth the money for me to not have to dispose of the oil, buy and replace the filter, lube the chassis, and even vacuum the interior.
High Tech is located in Northern Va. This is a very expensive part of town. It blows my mind when people compare what they pay in places like Kentucky or the middle of Kansas to metropolitan areas. Of course it's more expensive! So is your house, your taxes, your pay grade...
I'm kind of going through something similar with my home. I know I can run electrical lines in the drywall for my garage. I know I have the tools and the know how. I did it in my old home. I'm not sure if I have the time or patience to do it. I'm going to get a couple of estimates to have it done and THEN weigh the pros and cons. A couple hundred dollars to me to have wiring for 2 more lighting fixtures and more outlets on the walls may be worth it.
harper7
Senior Member
Not that hard for any decent mechanic or shop that is tech savvy to look it up to do it the right way and is not too arrogant/stubborn to ask questions and not just guess at it .
There are about a dozen write-ups and a few videos on how to do it on the internet ,not to mention SPC's own tech support or simply go to their website. Here is the right way and it should be set to the 0 with the SPC logo(they mention that) out as they already have 2 degrees of caster built in to the design at that setting . We use the EXACT same ones as the Tacomas and exact install and they made a video on the install.....25470 - Toyota Tacoma Upper Control Arms
IMO with SPC you get what you pay for.Their quality and quality control of the Chinese made UCA's might be a little off on some ,like mine were, but I give SPC an "A" for their continuing effort for trying to fix things and tech support! Mine lasted about 2 years due to defective bushings and are a real PITA to rebuild.
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jbstrd
New member
Oh man Duc, my garage is always open to T4R'ers. Hope everything is going well with your new home.
Alex T4R
New member
I totally agree with you Gary that there are dozen write up on the forum and the SPC support tech line, but the tech and the service manager who are all highly trained were to stubborn to call SPC or even look at the instructions, so even setting the bolt joint at 0 and then adjusting it with camber bolts on the lower control arm, my driver side caster is only 3.6 and passenger is 4.2. They also try to tell me that my 33" tires will rub no matter what, when i told them when i went to High Tech everything was perfect, but they were trying to say to me that my UCA were defective and that why, but it was only moving when i stopped or go and then stay in the same position and it wasn't much of the play anyway. Well the bottom line i totally agree with you that any incline mechanic should be able to do it, unfortunately i met some that prove otherwise and the shop was recommended by SPC.
st8rocks
New member
[MENTION=77684]WarnerD9[/MENTION]
I'm in the market for a long travel rear with my KDSS. I understand you have recommended taking out the rear sway bar and ditching KDSS entirely. My plan is to long travel the rear for now and take out KDSS when I long travel the front. Do you see any issues with long travel rear and retaining KDSS? It seems it has been done https://www.facebook.com/autocraft.au/posts/679221005445161 I have reached out to AutoCraft to see if they made any modifications for their long travel rear with KDSS.
Swarty
New member
The KDSS sway bar on the passenger side contacts the track bar when the drivers side is fully extended. LT at metal tech showed me the issue when I wanted to go long travel with them.
st8rocks
New member
Damnit... That's good to know.
Swarty
New member
Something I'm considering...
I really want to modify the diff housing to accept a watts linkage like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOSsaimwBkk#t=32
It would get the track bar out of the way but it would be a serious project with some careful measuring and welding on both the dif and the frame. Plus I'm debating whether the complexity hit would be worth it. I think the KDSS would still be the limiting factor but I'm pretty sure it would allow quite a bit of movement.
Obviously has some cons but I think overall it would be an improvement if I was going to long travel.
I really want to modify the diff housing to accept a watts linkage like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOSsaimwBkk#t=32
It would get the track bar out of the way but it would be a serious project with some careful measuring and welding on both the dif and the frame. Plus I'm debating whether the complexity hit would be worth it. I think the KDSS would still be the limiting factor but I'm pretty sure it would allow quite a bit of movement.
Obviously has some cons but I think overall it would be an improvement if I was going to long travel.
st8rocks
New member
Wow, that's both impressive and complex. I'll rip out KDSS when I go LT front and rear.
Orlyg1521
New member
Why yes, yes they did... until I acquired it:naughty::naughty:. It works great, no problems on the highway or around town and it worked flawlessly in Moab.
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WarnerD9
New member
Well... Not sure why you would want to do that. The sway bars will limit the travel to essentially stock. My KDSS continually tried to correct the ride height which caused uneven tire wear and articulated the suspension on flat ground. Also, when cornering the sensors would think that you were about to crash and actually almost make you crash by taking control of the brakes and influencing the steering while you tried to figure out what was happening.
My recommendation would be to wait and do it all at once or do a non long travel set up. You do lose inches of upward travel with the extended bump stops. Really it's only an issue when you want to go faster then you should.
The long travel will be much more effective without it. It's an either or situation in my mind. What's more important? Ride quality on road or traction and articulation off road.
I plan on converting to the expedition suspension. MT is more qualified than I am. I'm simply relaying my experience. The LT is awesome if it's what you want. But if you're keeping your sway bars I'm guessing that ride quality is priority número uno so I'd go with a non LT and retain baja-ability. Hope that helps!
