T4RNightHawk
New member
I got some Morimoto XSB Led switchbacks from TRS(great living 20 mins from their store). A 80mm fits the inner low beam ring and a 120mm fits the high beam.
The first step is to get your headlight apart. Other's have written it up so I won't waste time on that.
Once opened take a thumb tack and make indentations in three spots corresponding to the mounting holes on the halo. Once marked drill holes on both the inside and outside of the shroud with a very small drill bit.
Once these are drilled attach the halo with hanging wire feeding it through the in and outside of the shroud.
Then drill one bigger hole corresponding with the wires and feed those trough after removing the connector. I used my knife for this(which has a melted tip due to a mishap with my car battery).
Then put the casing back in the lens and get your wires situated.
And cook it all back together.
I don't currently have pictures of the wiring because it has yet to be finalized. Pictures of them on amber are on my build thread (page 3).
The wiring is complicated because amber power takes priority over white; I'm still figuring it out. If you want it to run white with amber blinker run your white power where you want (I did an add-a-circuit) then run your amber to the rear tail lights since the front DRL is sometimes the blinker.
If you want it amber run it to your DRL so when the DRL is on you get the blinker and amber. I like this best for my car but its amber during the day and white at night due to the auto headlights.
Ideally I want to figure out a way to choose between amber with a working blinker and white with an amber blinker but I can't think how to get the DRL always on. All I can think of is using some kind of crazy selector switch with paired selections to allow different white and amber wiring selections and even then you can't always get power to the DRL with auto headlights. Someone did mention that Toyota can reprogram your headlight functions so I might look into that.
The first step is to get your headlight apart. Other's have written it up so I won't waste time on that.
Once opened take a thumb tack and make indentations in three spots corresponding to the mounting holes on the halo. Once marked drill holes on both the inside and outside of the shroud with a very small drill bit.
Once these are drilled attach the halo with hanging wire feeding it through the in and outside of the shroud.
Then drill one bigger hole corresponding with the wires and feed those trough after removing the connector. I used my knife for this(which has a melted tip due to a mishap with my car battery).
Then put the casing back in the lens and get your wires situated.
And cook it all back together.
I don't currently have pictures of the wiring because it has yet to be finalized. Pictures of them on amber are on my build thread (page 3).
The wiring is complicated because amber power takes priority over white; I'm still figuring it out. If you want it to run white with amber blinker run your white power where you want (I did an add-a-circuit) then run your amber to the rear tail lights since the front DRL is sometimes the blinker.
If you want it amber run it to your DRL so when the DRL is on you get the blinker and amber. I like this best for my car but its amber during the day and white at night due to the auto headlights.
Ideally I want to figure out a way to choose between amber with a working blinker and white with an amber blinker but I can't think how to get the DRL always on. All I can think of is using some kind of crazy selector switch with paired selections to allow different white and amber wiring selections and even then you can't always get power to the DRL with auto headlights. Someone did mention that Toyota can reprogram your headlight functions so I might look into that.
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