my boring clutch rebuild thread

[Previologist]

As threatened, I will begin this unwelcome chore shortly. I will arrive home to my waiting garage and 4runner and HF tranny jack on Wednesday. I ordered the Aisin CKT40 clutch kit and it should arrive Thursday. The job begins shortly thereafter. Yay. This won't be one of those super helpful picture threads, but I will post about any troubles and travails I encounter.

 

[Previologist]

Clutch arrived, clutch box opened, shifter boots removed, sanity for attempting this solo checked, and found wanting. Nevertheless, boring clutch replacement has begun. My boss, asshat that he is, said he replaced the clutch in one of his trucks in one night. I'll be happy if I finish within a month without causing any major new problems or breaking bell housing bolts. I did spray them with p-oil as best as I could 2 months ago, will do that again now. I probably won't even try them this weekend, will just aim for get externals disconnected and cleared and let the oil do its thing.

 

[Previologist]

Is it worth it to raise the front end or both front and rear? More space sounds desirable, but if I wonder if it could force me into a bent, half prone position that could be even more uncomfortable than just lying flat. Also wonder if it will cause problems with the HF tranny jack, which I haven't even taken out of the box yet. But I will take it out right now, and maybe that will answer my question

 

[JohnMc]

I didn't need to lift mine at all, but it's got 3" of suspension lift.

If you can fit under comfortably, I'd proceed with pulling the trans. You'll probably need to lift the truck up if you can't to get it out from under there, and want to.

Other than that, get sandwich bags and a permanent marker, and baggy up all the nuts and bolts. Makes it easier to reassemble, especially if it's a while later.

 

[BuffaloBass]

The HF trans jack sits pretty high. Yet, you do not need to roll the transmission out from under the car, so you should not need to lift all four corners and set 4 stands underneath. You only need to roll the trans back a bit to R&R the clutch. lift it only enough to give yourself room to work 'comfortably'. 2 stands forward should be fine.

PS my 4rnr is auto, but on my old chevy i like to use threaded studs to help locate the trans back in. The HF trans jack makes pitch and yaw easy to adjust as well, to help orient the transmission properly.

How are you going to dress the flywheel, or are you pulling it to get properly ground> ?

 

[Previologist]

I saw where someone else put it on ramps and was able to leave the tranny underneath the whole time,

Clutch Replacement Writeup

so I did put it on ramps. Unfortunately my hand brake is toast (its on the long list) so I'm going to do a lot of careful blocking and will place stands and a floor jack strategically in the unlikely event it wants to move. The ramps get it higher than stands alone can, and make getting at the clutch area look pretty easy and comfortable. I should be able to sit up fully when I work on the disc and bearing.

I'm expecting to have to pull the flywheel, unless it looks mint at 310,000 miles. :lmao:

 

[BuffaloBass]

Ramps are fine. Have the wheel blanchard ground so your new clutch mates well. Last time I had it done it was only $50.

 

[Previologist]

I have been neglecting my poor 4runner the last few years while occupied by other concerns like food and shelter. Plus I had sort of given it up for lost due to rust. Then I learned about fluid film, and that renewed hope that I can squeeze a few more years out of it.

Spending some time underneath it has me noticing things, and not good things. While my frame looks ok rust-wise, I discovered both of my front sway bar links have rusted apart completely. Surely other front suspension parts are in need of replacement too, but I haven't checked. Based on the way it chews up tires I am confident of that. I also noticed what may be rear axle seal leaks, as evidenced by a damp-looking buildup of crud in back of each wheel

I haven't checked the diff breather, but I will.

Then I noticed this flange seemed bent on the steering linkage, but when I reached up and photographed it the image suggests that maybe that is normal, since both sides are the same. Either that or both sides are abnormal, lol. (its oily because my valve cover gaskets are in need of replacement...that was already on my list for this year before the clutch started dying).

I have questioned the wisdom of proceeding any further, as opposed to cutting my losses and unloading this 4runner. But since I don't have the money to replace it, I will plunge forward even as the list of needed repairs grows ever longer.

The driveshafts are off, and I will continue to pick away at it an hour or two per day.

I'm also going to look for another forum that doesn't take 2-3 minutes to load every time I try to read or post. Is there a problem with the forum? Slow, broken links, failure to load

 

[JohnMc]

Yeah, this forum must be running on a computer built in 1993. It's slow.

Rear axle leaking: Often it's a stuck breather that is causing the axle housing to build up pressure and push oil past seals. It's pretty easy to make sure the breather is open and free and not stuck and clogged. Might help, might not.

Valve covers: The bolts clamp the cover on with rubber washers. Which shrink and flatten over the decades, and end up loose. And when loose, the cover can't seal. You might try GENTLY tightening the 10mm bolts that hold the cover on. Too tight and the cover can break, and this should be considered a temp fix, seems like the oil will start leaking again at some point if it's not all redone, but it's quick and easy and might help.

 

[BuffaloBass]

HEY don't crawl around too long under there, you'll never get out! And maybe facing a complete restoration!

The steering joint is that way, wonky looking.

The rear axle dampness i do not think can come from seals. Seal would leak on the INSIDE of the drum. The vent more near the center section. Maybe someone bled the rear brakes sloppily? Either way, if YOU haven't changed the diff fluid lately, now's your chance. "Bof a dem" if its 4X.

Sway bar end links are pretty cheap and easy to R&R. Best done with the wheels on the ground BTW.

 

[JohnMc]

Sway bar end links are pretty cheap and easy to R&R. Best done with the wheels on the ground BTW.

Agreed. When both wheels are level (front pair, or rear pair) the sway links are not under very little tension. If you have it jacked up on one side, it's going to be under a lot.

 

[Previologist]

.

Valve covers: The bolts clamp the cover on with rubber washers.

Thanks but I've already tried tightening them a tad, and I started collecting parts for the eventual gasket replacement last fall. Still have a ways to go on that collection, and the one for timing belt job. Although frankly I think the need for that is overstated, having driven more than twice the recommended mileage since the last time it was changed. But I'll still do it. Assuming we both survive the clutch job.

The rear axle dampness i do not think can come from seals. Seal would leak on the INSIDE of the drum. The vent more near the center section. Maybe someone bled the rear brakes sloppily? Either way, if YOU haven't changed the diff fluid lately, now's your chance. "Bof a dem" if its 4X.

Yep fluid change is on the list for this year, especially since the front has never been changed since I've owned it.

I don't think its brake fluid. There's a very thick layer of grit stick to the backing plate and the inside of the rim too. They use a nasty silica-slop compound (as I understand it) on the dirt road by my house to help maintain it, and its possible that's what it is but I don't see it anywhere else. I can always hope. I certainly don't want to do rear seals with everything else on the list for this year.

I've got all the connectors disconnected except one, and I haven't broken one yet. I think someone somewhere might have said you can disconnect this one easier after you lower the tranny a little but I'll have to go back and reread some threads to make sure.

Sway bar end links are pretty cheap and easy to R&R. Best done with the wheels on the ground BTW.

that's good to know. I've done them before but only on a Sienna.

 

[Previologist]

BTW, is it necessary to take out the sway bar for the clutch job? Timmy does in his video but it doesn't look necessary to me...but I don't know what I'm doing, so there's that...

 

[brillo_76]

Did you happen to fluid film those brake plates? When the axle seals leak you know. the grease will come out the the bottom and fly around in the axle area.
So if you seeing in on your rims though.. You may have a seep.

You can watch the oil level until you have the time and $ to do the valve covers as well as your diff if it leaking significantly too.

The forum is diffidently slowing down as of late.

What I have noticed on the 3rd gens in the rust belt is that they will need attention from time to time. The cleaner you keep the underneath and the better you keep the inside of the frame coated the longer it will last. Just plating buys you 5 to 10 years max on rust holes. I kinda learned to live with the rust issues on my area. Its not worth having new vehicles that just rust away too. You can slow the oxidation down and almost stop it.. Now with the pricing of new vehicle replacements.. I probably be patching my work beaters for ever... lol..

 

[Previologist]

No, I wouldn't have sprayed the fluid film anywhere near the brakes. Plus there's no substantial build up of grit anywhere else under the vehicle where I DID spray it.

I've got all the connectors undone and the slave off, but there are 2 spots where the harnesses are mounted to posts that I can't get off. One is near the cat, and might be baked on. The other is on top of the tranny and you need to be rubber man to reach it through the shifter hole. I should be able to reach that once the tranny is lowered an inch or two. I may need to break the other one and wire it back up.

I'm down to the most worrysome part I've faced yet: the last rusty bolt on the exhaust bracket looks like a fine candidate for breaking off and its the last thing standing between me and the starter. Please don't let that break.

Heading to HF today to get some 1/2" ratchet extensions.

 

[phattyduck]

Heading to HF today to get some 1/2" ratchet extensions.

Yeah, getting to the bellhousing bolts from behind the trans/t-case is no joke.

-Charlie

 

[Previologist]

The bad news is my rear diff is definitely low. The other bad news is my assessment of that exhaust bracket bolt being frozen was correct. It will not budge. I put some cotton balls on the bolt end above the bracket and soaked them in PB. I'm willing to be verrrrrrrry patient on it. I'm not sure if heating the bracket will help, or just make the threaded hole tighter. I will wait a day or 2 before I find out.

The good news is my diff breather is definitely not breathing...so maybe..MAYBE? I won't need new seals.

 

[Previologist]

Good news, I realized I would never get that freakin bolt out without an impact driver so I bought one. Bad news-it still won't budge. More bad news-it threads into the exhaust flange, so I can't just cut it off. More bad news: I forgot that I don't even have a propane/map torch anymore, and its a 60 mile round trip to get one. I suppose I could start the engine and let that heat it up, but then I'd probably scald myself on the pipe so no thanks. Good news: I got my diff breather breathing again, so a minor yay! for that.

I'll just keep soaking and trying I guess.

 

[Previologist]

Got that mofo exhaust bolt out with propane torch and impact wrench. I would have bet 100 to 1 against me getting it out in one piece, but I did. It only took me 15 days to get this far, but I haven't broken anything yet so that's good. I'm a starter away from the tranny bolts now.

 

[BuffaloBass]

I had to buy a 20" extension from Harbor Freight as well as use a socket "knuckle" to get to those tranny bolts. Oh and maybe a magnetic base light to peer over that transmission to see the bolts! Neck stretching excersize for sure!

I am NOT looking forward to the reverse of that procedure soon.

PS I realized that HEAT is nice for removing stuck bolts. I broke one of those long adjusting bolts on the AC, used heat n the PS and ALT ones and got them free. I think the heating/cooling cycle breaks rust free.