Some random thoughts on my double-clutch experience, primarily for people like me who are not great mechanics, have the 3.4 4WD, do not have an awesome tool box, are doing it solo, may be hesitant about doing it at all, and are using the 2024 version of the Harbor Freight tranny jack, which has a v-shaped platform with a heavy ratchet strap attached.
Why did it take me so long, and will it take you that long? I was in no hurry. I had another vehicle to drive. But most importantly I know myself, I know I often make a lot of mistakes, often have to break several things to fix the first thing, and this job was too important to break things. I always give myself 10 times more time than it should take to fix something. Plus when I started I didn't have money for anything except the clutch kit, so there was no rush.
In the end, it worked. I only broke 2 things, 1 harness clip (the same one that was already broken in Timmy's video) and the backup light switch. More on that later.
And with that let me blame/thank Timmy, because if not for his videos I would not have attempted this.
-like he says, you need wobble extensions. You will hate yourself if you don't. I bought the set of 3 impact extensions at HF, but only used the short and medium, primarily on bell housing and driveshaft.
-stubby flex ratchets! stubbies and wobblers are my new best friends!!
-I suggest removing the backup light switch, it will get in the way of the HF strap and if you don't have eyes on both sides of the tranny it can easily get broken off. You don't need to drain it.
-The jack platform is v-shaped, but the only v-shaped part of the TM/TC is far forward or far back of the center of gravity. The sweet spot is near or at the junction of TM/TC, where there happens to be a flat spot on the bottom. I just placed a small piece of plywood across the platform and it sat nice and flat. You need to remove the cross-member mount to make use of that flat spot. I also found a small trolley jack useful under the TC.
-The HF jack is great, but the platform is the weakest part. Taking TM out with TC attached stretches the limits of the jack platform. Both times I took it out one of the track wheels under the platform popped out of its track because the weight pulled on the strap which pulled the platform wings apart slightly. It still worked but caused me some anxiety. Drilling a couple holes and placing a long bolt at either end might work to hold those wings together and prevent it from happening. Or you could remove the TC, but that seemed like a lot of hassle.
-the sway bar does not need to be removed
-as other have mentioned, lowering the tail end just a little makes it easier to get at the top bell housing bolts and wiring clips/connector.
-I used a loop of bungee around the TC to hold my long extensions in place while I finagled the other end onto the top bolts. Unless you have fat huge meat paws you should be able to reach up from the side and get to those bolt heads to get the socket on. I didn't say it would be easy though.
-I removed the top bolts the first time through the shifter hole, but there is no advantage to doing it that way and it might even be harder. The 2nd time I just used long extensions
-I got the starter out and back in completely from below. It was on ramps so going through the wheel well wasn't an option and it did not look any easier to me. The only thing required to do it from below is being able to hold a stomach crunch long enough to hold the starter in place while you start the lower bolt with your left hand. If you have RWD its probably easy-peasy from below.
-I clearly didn't have the TC up high enough each time I reinstalled, but it was at the maximum height of my trolley jack, with 3-4" of wood blocks on it. It looked plenty high, but wasn't. That's why I only got it in when I lifted it with my knee while pushing forward on the bell housing. Maybe someone has figured out a way to know when its at the proper height. You might measure it before you remove it so you know when it will be a nice straight shot into the crank shaft. Or see the next comment
-if I had used the suggestion given early in this thread about making alignment pins out of headless bolts, I think it would have saved me HOURS of trouble. The only reason I didn't is because I don't have good steel cutting/grinding tools. It is a great idea.
-I goofed by installing my rear driveshaft without making sure the front shaft flanges were aligned first, because I had moved the flanges when it was out so now the front wouldn't line up. Since it was on ramps with no parking brake I didn't want to risk jacking up the rear end and have it possibly roll, so I just haven't installed the front shaft yet.
-This video was a huge help for getting the TC shifter in. I just used the rubber washer that was in there, btw. I used new OEM for the tranny shifter seal/bushing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nTfcHxDK-8
Last but not least I used the Aisin CKT-040 clutch kit. The clutch disc is marked T/M for the tranny side. THIS IS WRONG FOR the 3.4l!!!! That side goes toward the flywheel on the 3.4, as I found out the hard way.
I won't lie, this was not a fun job. This is the kind of job I would gladly pay someone to do, if I had the money, but I didn't lol. But after doing it twice, I think I could probably do it in a few days if I had to do it again. I sorely hope that the oil leak I currently have is coming from the crank seal or oil pan and not my brand new rear main, because I'd rather not do it again!
Pay attention and take photos of things so if it ends up being a few weeks or years. You can put it back together. Thats how I do things.
