my slow build/wheeling/everything thread.

[nevada]

my wheels did finally show up a few weeks ago. ive been hunting/busy, but still managed to get a couple tires mounted.

shiny!

32 bolts is a LOT lol. due to not having an anti-coning ring, Allied wants you to torque them 3 times!

apparently 42's and 17s don't play so well together, even with bead locks, the tires tend to burp air on the inner bead. mostly i think its because the safety bead on the wheel is set too close. i think standard is 3/4", but the bead on most larger tires is about 1", so they sit ON the safety bead, instead of in front of it. to help prevent them from burping, i put a couple wraps of Gorilla tape.

this puts a bit more pressure on the bead, and should keep it from moving. it also makes seating the bead a bit harder also.

i used a torque wrench, set to 17ft/lbs. but, apparently it had issues. i ended up snapping 3 bolts, WTF. i stopped using it, and got a different one. much better. i had to go back and redo the first one, it was severely over tightened. damnit. what a PITA.

but they sure do look sweet!

if you look close, there is a tiny 38.5 hiding back there.

with 15psi, these 42's measured right at 41". when the advertised size is 41.9". whatever...

 

[Hyde802]

Yeah, youll have that. Haha. Whats the height on that 38.5? My 38s with 10ish psi in them come in right at 36.5. We normally expect that what ever the tire says, its about 2" below that. Got a weight on the tire rim combo?

Man those look good. When do you plan on getting them on? Must almost be snow wheelin season out that way..

 

[nevada]

Yeah, youll have that. Haha. Whats the height on that 38.5? My 38s with 10ish psi in them come in right at 36.5. We normally expect that what ever the tire says, its about 2" below that. Got a weight on the tire rim combo?

Man those look good. When do you plan on getting them on? Must almost be snow wheelin season out that way..

they measure somewhere in the 36-36.5 range. I haven't aired them up and gotten a good measurement yet.

these wheels are HEAVY. id guess they are 35lbs or so. the tires are 115...
so 150lbs per corner.

not sure when they will get put on, im still hunting for 2 more weeks. I will try to get the other 2 tires mounted in between the next 2 weekend. i'll bolt the rears on, to see how much I need to rework the flat bed.

yes, we are starting to get snow on the higher mtns the last couple days. its on the way.

 

[nevada]

Yeah, youll have that. Haha. Whats the height on that 38.5? My 38s with 10ish psi in them come in right at 36.5. We normally expect that what ever the tire says, its about 2" below that. Got a weight on the tire rim combo?

Man those look good. When do you plan on getting them on? Must almost be snow wheelin season out that way..

coming back to this. I aired the 38.5's up the other day. they were all going flat...

I set them at 20psi, then measured. one was 35.5", the others were right at 36" I didn't use a level or straight edge or anything, just eyeballed it. also, these still have the weight of the truck on them.

 

[nevada]

a couple pics from my hunting trip.

a nice little 3 point(legal) buck that walked into camp, during ELK season...

another deer, a doe this time, that decided to bed down right behind my tent. shes 30-35 yards away. she laid there and watched me break camp for an hour, before getting up to eat some more...

a couple of the 4unner, in the first snow storm of the year.

oh, I ended up getting a puncture in the same tire again. right smack in the center of the tread. it was a slow leak, but I had the plug kit, so I dealt with it

they are getting old, I expect this to start happening a lot more from here on out. they have lived a long life, well beyond what they are rated at. im more than happy with how they have worked over the years.

 

[Hyde802]

Nice pics man! See, those plug kits come in handy!

 

[nevada]

ive got 3 of the tires mounted, but starting to run out of room at work to store them. so what better place to put them, than on the truck?

its much easier to find a place to stuff the old 38's. haha.

ive got a bit of metal work to do on the flatbed, to regain some of that space.

overall, I gained 3" under the diffs! that's HUGE!


that also means my truck will be 3" taller, that's also huge. I don't like that so much. I think im going to look into lowering it a bit. so hopefully the overall height will be very close to what it was before 42's.

 

[nevada]

Ive been busy, and haven't gotten anything done on the truck. however I DID get it down here to the shop, and got it parked in the corner. that's something...


Im just going to post some tech here, measurements and such, so I have a record of things.


im currently using an 87 rear housing,

WMS: 58.5" according to Erik's Toyota Differential info

bulge to bulge 78"
that's with 38.5x14.50 SX's.
10" wheel with I think 3" BS(i'll have to measure when I pull the tires), with weld on bead locks. the bead locks add about 1" per side to the overall width.


the D60 im building will be at 63" WMS

I plan to use a 9.75" wheel, with a 4.5 BS.
this wheel will be a regular bead lock, so no added width for that.
this combo should put me about 77.5" bulge to bulge.

I could easily go with a 4", or 4.25" BS wheel to get just a bit more width, back to where I am now, or just slightly wider. perfect!

just to add my info here so I can find it.

with the 42's and raceline beadlocks, my bulge to bulge measurement is now 77".
the new wheels have 3.25 backspacing and are only 9"wide. despite being advertised as 9.5"

the old wheels are also 3.25 backspaced. but are a 10" wheel, with weld on beadlocks.

with the new tires, wheels, and spacers, the rear width is right at 80".

also, I got a scale, and weighed the old and new.


42's/raceline wheels: 152.2 lbs.
38.5/weld on wheels: 126.4 lbs.

 

[nevada]

I worked on the truck a bit over the weekend. I got the steering box, and front end moved forward. also lowered it about an inch.
i didn't get any pics of the after work, but i still have to finish up the steering box mount, i will get some when i do that. until then...
a before pic, with the new tires/wheels.

 

[Hyde802]

Man thats a big tire. :thumb3:

 

[nevada]

I got the front end moved forward. I just moved the spring back on the perch. I had it mounted there previously, so the holes were already drilled. this happened quickly, I didn't stop to get any pics...

then I got the steering box moved forward also, to prevent my steering linkage from scissoring across itself.

after a bit of trial and error, I found this to be the best way.weld the sleeves to the outer plate FIRST. I bolted the sleeves to the plate, this ensures they are square and true.

of course this necessitates larger frame holes. at least 1". I had originally drilled 3/4" holes, which is the exact size of the sleeves. but with the bit of weld at the base, the plate doesn't sit flat against the frame. I suggest starting with a 1" hole.

I also failed to get pics of this next part. but I used some C clamps to pinch both plates together, and tightly against the frame, then welded everything in.

and finally, with the box installed, in the new forward position.

I did have to clearance the body slightly to get it to go that far forward. I also trimmed the outer mount plate, to allow it to move further forward.



I may end up building new spring hangers, and dropping in a new shackled hanger, to get the front end moved even further forward. I didn't get nearly the clearance I was hoping for.

turned all the way to the left, the left front, and right rear jacked up. its very close. my jacks don't go high enough, so there is still a lot of suspension up travel to be had. I will have to just measure for some bump stops to keep from slicing the tires.

 

[nevada]

I got started on the rear. removed some of the flat bed to make clearance.

this is what I started with.

off with the wing,

then i started working on the 63 swap.

my dodge caravan bolt on spring hangers. they are a bit taller than the ones they sell for this conversion, but i already had them, and they are easy to get at the wrecking yards. since they just bolt on. of course i welded in place.

i still have to figure out what im doing with the rear hanger.

im thinking about just running 2 plates off the ends of that bracket, and bolting it straight to the shackle. we'll see how it goes.

 

[nevada]

ive been pretty busy on the truck...


the bed removed to install new bars, where I cut the sides off. also pictured is my 4 gallon air tank, it tucks nicely under there.

let a buddy weld for a bit. burning in the diamond plate side panels.

using the harbor freight 12t PIPE bender. it works great.

got one side done.

I use a hole saw, and drill press to fish mouth the PIPE.

a perfect fit, for nice strong welds.

then added a couple braces,

the style/design is very close to what I had before. it worked well, I didn't want to change it too much.


what I ended up doing for shackle hangers. not great, or pretty, but should work well, and be very strong.

that is 1/2" plate steel. I just reused the OEM gm shackle, and needed to make up one inch over the Toyota frame. so I plated each side with 1/2", then used another piece of 1/2" to mount the shackle.

I did finished bending up the passenger side yesterday, I will get it welded on, and the braces added today. then it all just needs plated.

 

[Hyde802]

Good looking notches!

 

[nevada]

Good looking notches!

thanks.

I have done it that way a few times. as long as the hole saw is the same(or very close) to the pipe diameter, it works very well.








just a short clip from last year. having a little fun passing a locked up jeep on a snow hill.

 

[nevada]

ok, so I did get the truck done. its on the trailer at home now.


I still need to flex it out, and measure for bump stops. im doing that on Saturday. the front tires are very close to the fenders at full lock. im going to have to limit up travel quite a bit...


but other than that, and a bit of paint, its ready to run.


sadly...I did not get any pics of it finished, and its dark when I get home. I will try to get some on Saturday.

 

[nevada]

oh, I did end up having to use wheel spacers. 1 1/4". for steering/frame clearance.

with the new tires, wheels, and spacers, the rear width is right at 80". its WIDE. which is good, because its also 3" taller due to the tires.:tsk: hopefully it will be just as stable as before.

it just BARELY fits on my new trailer. the tire touching on the drivers side, and has about 1/2" space on the right. but its fits, so that's good.

 

[nevada]

I took the truck out for a mini-shakedown run. mostly to compress the suspension a bit, and measure for bump stops.


first, that stance!

tight fit on the trailer, this side is just touching..

about 1/2" on this side..

oh yeh, that little tire fills that fender.

but, I use virtually all my up travel.

once I have bump stops in place, it will use just a teeny bit less, but at least I wont be trashing the tires against the fender. they actually don't rub too bad right now. I have a bit more I can cut out. it should work well.

 

[nevada]

im just going to leave this right here...

 

[nevada]

im curious to see how it compares this year, with the new tires.






although, actually my old tires still had like 40% tread. they weren't quite as worn as I thought.