nevada
Senior Member
change of plans. I am now looking to swap in a 3rz. a much easier swap. hopefully getting a complete wrecked Tacoma soon...
my slow build/wheeling/everything thread.
- Thread starter nevada
- Start date
nevada
Senior Member
in the meantime, I am enjoying my truck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=598ocbS4sgU&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=598ocbS4sgU&feature=youtu.be
nevada
Senior Member
thanks.
we are finally getting snow worth wheeling in. that trip was 2 feet of fresh from the night before. they are expecting another 20 or so by this weekend. should be good!
nevada
Senior Member
I don't think I ever updated the transmission situation. the old c4 lasted about 2 trips with the new engine.
it was still working fine/the same. but with the cam I was running, and the tight stock converter, we were fighting a dying issue. every time it went into gear. it SUCKED. also, I was getting some UGLY sounds out of the t-cases.
so I swapped in the corresponding 98 explorer trans, and a dana 300 t-case.
4r70W, computer controlled. I got that all wired in, and threw in a new LARGE cooler. its been working GREAT.
the new trans has a lower first gear, overdrive, and a lock up converter.
I would like to eventually wire in a switch to manual lock the converter. that, along with the AC idle up should be a good feature for wheeling. very similar to a manual trans and thumb throttle. cool stuff.
it was still working fine/the same. but with the cam I was running, and the tight stock converter, we were fighting a dying issue. every time it went into gear. it SUCKED. also, I was getting some UGLY sounds out of the t-cases.
so I swapped in the corresponding 98 explorer trans, and a dana 300 t-case.
4r70W, computer controlled. I got that all wired in, and threw in a new LARGE cooler. its been working GREAT.
the new trans has a lower first gear, overdrive, and a lock up converter.
I would like to eventually wire in a switch to manual lock the converter. that, along with the AC idle up should be a good feature for wheeling. very similar to a manual trans and thumb throttle. cool stuff.
JBurt
Senior Member
Sounds good to me!
nevada
Senior Member
thanks.
my reason for saying that, I recently did a new engine. very similar to my old one, but a bunch more power. I had been thinking the old one sounded better. it had a nice deep throaty rumble. but...having finally heard some video of this one from outside the truck...yeah, it sounds good. lol.
nevada
Senior Member
Work was slow a few weeks ago, so i pulled the 4runner into the shop and stared working on the Elocker.
i had to do a bit of grinding on the housing to clear the leaf spring. plenty of meat there, so no issue.
the trickiest part was drilling the holes. i made a little bushing out of some 3/8" brake line. worked perfectly to get centered holes exactly where i needed.
oh, and drilling into a weld...not as much fun as it sounds. lol.
i ended up looping a ratchet strap around the end of the drill to get enough pressure to drill. doing it all by hand would have been ridiculous. i see why a lot of guys pull the housing and use a drill press.
i had to do a bit of grinding on the housing to clear the leaf spring. plenty of meat there, so no issue.
the trickiest part was drilling the holes. i made a little bushing out of some 3/8" brake line. worked perfectly to get centered holes exactly where i needed.
oh, and drilling into a weld...not as much fun as it sounds. lol.
i ended up looping a ratchet strap around the end of the drill to get enough pressure to drill. doing it all by hand would have been ridiculous. i see why a lot of guys pull the housing and use a drill press.
Attachments
bump530
New member
Nice, looks good. Im about the start the same process front and rear. Maybe I missed it, but did you buy a harness or build your own?
nevada
Senior Member
thanks. its been a long time coming. lol.
I ended up buying one. I didn't want to mess with building it.
this is the one I got, and its on sale right now. great price.
Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)
thespwilson
New member
I would die if I had to navigate that much snow
nevada
Senior Member
i just finished a 3rz swap into my dads 87 pickup. I wasn't in a position to spend the money to get the engine in my 85 runner, but he was...so we did.
of course, as to my usual I did not get a single picture. mostly I just put my head down and worked. but..it was much easier than I had expected.
working on it in my free time at work, and dad helped with some stuff while I was busy with customer cars. it was 2 weeks. drove his truck in with 22r, and 2 weeks later drove it out with the 3rz. very cool.
87 carb'd truck, 5 speed trans 4wd.
2003 Tacoma 3rz.
I used the w59 bellhousing, and a 2003 manual trans ecu.
chilkat engine mounts and rear sump oil pan.
I opted to NOT purchase a pre-built harness. im glad I did. the wiring really wasn't all that tough, certainly not $750 worth.
the truck drives NICE! so much more power than the old worn 22r. it didn't have an actual check engine light in the dash, so I wired in the unused LOW FUEL light. its orange, and works well.
now I am on the search for another one for my 85 4runner.
of course, as to my usual I did not get a single picture. mostly I just put my head down and worked. but..it was much easier than I had expected.
working on it in my free time at work, and dad helped with some stuff while I was busy with customer cars. it was 2 weeks. drove his truck in with 22r, and 2 weeks later drove it out with the 3rz. very cool.
87 carb'd truck, 5 speed trans 4wd.
2003 Tacoma 3rz.
I used the w59 bellhousing, and a 2003 manual trans ecu.
chilkat engine mounts and rear sump oil pan.
I opted to NOT purchase a pre-built harness. im glad I did. the wiring really wasn't all that tough, certainly not $750 worth.
the truck drives NICE! so much more power than the old worn 22r. it didn't have an actual check engine light in the dash, so I wired in the unused LOW FUEL light. its orange, and works well.
now I am on the search for another one for my 85 4runner.
nevada
Senior Member
adding more notes to this,
one major issue I had was getting the factory dash temp gauge to work. the 87 uses a temp sender with 3/8" BSPP threads.
unfortunately the 3rz uses 1/8" BSPT. I was unable to find a way to get them connected. I had to end up using an electric after market gauge. equus 6262. it comes with a 1/8" NPT sender that goes in just fine to the bspt hole.
for my own notes, im going to lay out the pins I used..
E5 CONNECTOR
#1 black/yellow: constant 12v.
#6 violet/red: ground side of CEL.
#16 white/red: switched 12v
#20 green/red constant 12v
E6 CONNECTOR
#13 green/black: tach
#6 white/blue ground for fuel pump relay
DASH CONNECTOR
10G black/red: switched 12v.
white/red: switched 12v.
OBD CONNECTOR
#7 SIL white to #12 on E5
#13 TC yellow/black to #7 on E6
#4 CG white/black: ground
#9 LT green/black: tach
#5 SG: ground
#16 violet: constant 12v
one major issue I had was getting the factory dash temp gauge to work. the 87 uses a temp sender with 3/8" BSPP threads.
unfortunately the 3rz uses 1/8" BSPT. I was unable to find a way to get them connected. I had to end up using an electric after market gauge. equus 6262. it comes with a 1/8" NPT sender that goes in just fine to the bspt hole.
for my own notes, im going to lay out the pins I used..
E5 CONNECTOR
#1 black/yellow: constant 12v.
#6 violet/red: ground side of CEL.
#16 white/red: switched 12v
#20 green/red constant 12v
E6 CONNECTOR
#13 green/black: tach
#6 white/blue ground for fuel pump relay
DASH CONNECTOR
10G black/red: switched 12v.
white/red: switched 12v.
OBD CONNECTOR
#7 SIL white to #12 on E5
#13 TC yellow/black to #7 on E6
#4 CG white/black: ground
#9 LT green/black: tach
#5 SG: ground
#16 violet: constant 12v
nevada
Senior Member
ive had the 4runner up and running for a couple weeks now. I love it!
though, while playing around with my new E-locker I ended up breaking the stock J arm steering! oops.
luckily I already had all the bits to convert it over to high steer. so got that taken care of too. its been quite the productive time for that rig.
ive been in the mtns with it already, so much more power! I can run a gear higher than before in nearly every situation.
though, while playing around with my new E-locker I ended up breaking the stock J arm steering! oops.
luckily I already had all the bits to convert it over to high steer. so got that taken care of too. its been quite the productive time for that rig.
ive been in the mtns with it already, so much more power! I can run a gear higher than before in nearly every situation.
nevada
Senior Member
woohoo! now my black 3rz swapped 85 4runner has functioning AC again.
it always worked with the 22re, and worked WELL, so I knew I WOULD have it again.
it took a bit of figuring, but I finally got it.
obviously I had to have custom AC hoses made, but I found a part from a different car made that job easier.
I used the highside(small) hose from a 99 Subaru legacy. lol. they are the same connection at the compressor, but the Subaru hose has the charge port very near the compressor. the Tacoma hose does NOT have a charge port in the line anywhere, it is elsewhere in the system, still on the Tacoma.
so using that end of the Subaru hose, I was able to have a custom line built with the other end of the stock 4runner hose.
for the low side I used the Tacoma hose, grafted onto the stock 4runner hose. which works out nicely, because that one DOES have the charge port in place.
the wiring got a little tricky, but mostly because my 4runner did not match ANY of the wiring diagrams I found. the wire colors were wrong. the wires coming out of the AC amplifier didn't match, and the diagram did NOT show a pinout location. the amplifier is necessary for the system to function properly, with the temperature and safety switches.
also, I discovered that the amplifier MUST see a tach signal, or it will not release the clutch output.
so, for my reference,
out of the amplifier,
black/yellow is the clutch output, it traces down into the kick panel as a black/white. this is the ac clutch wire.
the black wire gets the tach signal, pin#13 on E6 of the 3rz ecu.
then, to get the system to idle up properly, you need to connect pin #13 of the E5 connector to the blue wire(idle up VSV) in the amplifier, it also comes down into the kick panel, in the same connector with the black/white clutch wire.
sorry...again, not a single pic was taken. im so bad at this...
it always worked with the 22re, and worked WELL, so I knew I WOULD have it again.
it took a bit of figuring, but I finally got it.
obviously I had to have custom AC hoses made, but I found a part from a different car made that job easier.
I used the highside(small) hose from a 99 Subaru legacy. lol. they are the same connection at the compressor, but the Subaru hose has the charge port very near the compressor. the Tacoma hose does NOT have a charge port in the line anywhere, it is elsewhere in the system, still on the Tacoma.
so using that end of the Subaru hose, I was able to have a custom line built with the other end of the stock 4runner hose.
for the low side I used the Tacoma hose, grafted onto the stock 4runner hose. which works out nicely, because that one DOES have the charge port in place.
the wiring got a little tricky, but mostly because my 4runner did not match ANY of the wiring diagrams I found. the wire colors were wrong. the wires coming out of the AC amplifier didn't match, and the diagram did NOT show a pinout location. the amplifier is necessary for the system to function properly, with the temperature and safety switches.
also, I discovered that the amplifier MUST see a tach signal, or it will not release the clutch output.
so, for my reference,
out of the amplifier,
black/yellow is the clutch output, it traces down into the kick panel as a black/white. this is the ac clutch wire.
the black wire gets the tach signal, pin#13 on E6 of the 3rz ecu.
then, to get the system to idle up properly, you need to connect pin #13 of the E5 connector to the blue wire(idle up VSV) in the amplifier, it also comes down into the kick panel, in the same connector with the black/white clutch wire.
sorry...again, not a single pic was taken. im so bad at this...
