Need a cheap catalytc converter replacement.
- Thread starter Perrone
- Start date
Anyone know if there's a way I could run a straight pipe for now and still be able to put in a new front o2 sensor without cutting and welding? I can't seem to find a piece of pipe with the cutout for the sensor already in it. I know clamps are not a great idea, but that would be the easiest/cheapest until I can get it somewhere to get welded.
BTO
Member
Someone just got my GFs 4runner last Sat night. $400 later she has a replacement cat and an O2 sensor. Not bad for Calif. I was expecting worse.
Can't believe the nerve of some thieves. This guy did the dirty deed in a pooring down (dare I say CATS and dogs) rain storm. I swear, if these guys worked as hard at a legit job they'd be rich.
Can't believe the nerve of some thieves. This guy did the dirty deed in a pooring down (dare I say CATS and dogs) rain storm. I swear, if these guys worked as hard at a legit job they'd be rich.
Snowy21
New member
They are really going to have to want mine to get it. It will take forever to cut through enough to get to the cat even with an angle grinder.
There is a bar across the back between the cat and the transfer case as well to keep them out of the back side. And there is a piece of tube welded between the pipe and crossmember on the downstream side just behind the cat so that even if then do cut the very ends out it still wont budge without serious work.
Overkill? Probably, but there isn't much to work on in that area so I figured what the hell. I got the tube and a welder so I wasn't out anything but a couple hours for peace of mind.
Nelsonmd
New member
You are guarding a cat that has no platinum in it...
I think the OEM's are the only ones with the platinum that is so valuable. Maybe the thieves are too stupid to know the difference, but a good one i would think would know some OEM marking to look for so he doesn't' risk his neck for a worthless CAT.
I think the OEM's are the only ones with the platinum that is so valuable. Maybe the thieves are too stupid to know the difference, but a good one i would think would know some OEM marking to look for so he doesn't' risk his neck for a worthless CAT.
Snowy21
New member
I don't give them that much credit to know the difference. I imagine them just chopping whatever off since the odds of being caught are minimal honestly. It's not as much about the money (my OEM cat was throwing a P0420 anyway) as it is the hassle of driving straight piped for a few days while new parts come in and then installing them.
But hey, cheers to knowing that there is another member on this forum that knows what Cpk means :cheers:
BTO
Member
Yeah. I was thinking about getting a bumper sticker that says,
"ATTN: THIEVES. THIS CAT HAS ALREADY BEEN STOLEN AND REPLACED WITH A NEW NON-PRECIOUS METAL TYPE. DO YOURSELF (AND US) A FAVOR AND PASS THIS ONE BY".
mikebontoft
New member
what do you want to know about the straight pipe?
I still need to do my exhaust. I was planning on a crossover elimination and a dual inlet to the cat and single out. 2.25" tubing. the magnaflow cat was $60. you can sell the oem online for about $90
I still need to do my exhaust. I was planning on a crossover elimination and a dual inlet to the cat and single out. 2.25" tubing. the magnaflow cat was $60. you can sell the oem online for about $90
1) Will it work without issues?
2) Since my front o2 sensor is gone now should I figure out a way to move the rear one to the front and if so do you know of any easy ways to do so?
3) Will clamps hold up until I can get it welded without breaking anything else?
Those are my basic concerns before I spend what little I have to try for a fix to last a few months at the most until I can afford to get a new cat if I even need it. The muffler is still there so I just want to run a straight pipe from the downpipe to the muffler. If it's going to be as loud as it is now I see many tickets in the near future, which I also can't afford.
mikebontoft
New member
sorry I had a nice big thing typed up and my phone force-quitted the browser again. Took me awhile to come back here on my pc to do it over again.
here's your best bet: call around... a few independent shops and maybe even a couple muffler shops. I would charge $35 to weld in a pipe and an 02 bung. Hopefully someone in your area would be willing to do that.
If not, your next best bet is to get an ROL exhaust tube from oreillys or some place similar. Measure the outer diameter of your exhaust tubing and the inner diameter of the replacement tube. You want the inner to be slightly bigger than the outer (of the other pipe of course. That way it can slip on and clamp down without much gap). Grab some clamps and make sure they're tight so they can't leak. Yes, it is possible.
OK, now here's where it gets a bit fun. As I understand it, your 02 sensors are the same. Since they chopped out the front part, you're gonna have to use the rear 02S bung. This means you'll have to extend the wiring for the sensor. I'll probably have to grab a diagram for you to make sure the wires are the same. Just cut one at a time and solder them. butt connectors I don't like down there but if you don't have the equipment they will do.
Again, make sure the exhaust seals the best that you can get it. Since the front 02 sensor is THE sensor that tells the computer how the engine is running, you need it. The rear 02 is just a report. Until you have both sensors, the CEL will be on. And actually, if you choose not to replace the cat there's one more thing you will have to do to keep the light off.
here's your best bet: call around... a few independent shops and maybe even a couple muffler shops. I would charge $35 to weld in a pipe and an 02 bung. Hopefully someone in your area would be willing to do that.
If not, your next best bet is to get an ROL exhaust tube from oreillys or some place similar. Measure the outer diameter of your exhaust tubing and the inner diameter of the replacement tube. You want the inner to be slightly bigger than the outer (of the other pipe of course. That way it can slip on and clamp down without much gap). Grab some clamps and make sure they're tight so they can't leak. Yes, it is possible.
OK, now here's where it gets a bit fun. As I understand it, your 02 sensors are the same. Since they chopped out the front part, you're gonna have to use the rear 02S bung. This means you'll have to extend the wiring for the sensor. I'll probably have to grab a diagram for you to make sure the wires are the same. Just cut one at a time and solder them. butt connectors I don't like down there but if you don't have the equipment they will do.
Again, make sure the exhaust seals the best that you can get it. Since the front 02 sensor is THE sensor that tells the computer how the engine is running, you need it. The rear 02 is just a report. Until you have both sensors, the CEL will be on. And actually, if you choose not to replace the cat there's one more thing you will have to do to keep the light off.
I can't seem to find anywhere that has the size and length I need. The OD of the pipe is 2-1/4 and I've seen some that are 2-1/2, but I can't find one long enough. I have 27inchs of pipe missing so I need at least 30inches or so to be safe. I'm looking for flexible ones, but nobody seems to have one long enough. Any ideas?
Whitson Metalworks
New member
dont want to highjack but i am super interested to here more about the crossover elimination! that thing had me wanting to set my truck on fire while trying to repair a cracked manifold. how would one eliminate this without some custom headers?
Ah it's fine. I finally found one and just ordered it. Just need to wait until it gets here and I'll pop it on and try soldering the o2 sensor to a longer cable.
Johnate0
New member
Ugh. Stolen CATs. This happened to one of my shop vehicles recently. Over a long weekend someone got into my fenced-off lot (auto body shop) and stole the CAT out of the only vehicle that was left outside the building. It's infuriating, I know. Good luck with whatever you end up doing. Back in 2010 my CEL came on and of course it was P0420 so I replaced the CAT with a new OEM one. My cost on that puppy was $700 even with my shop discount.
mikebontoft
New member
For the crossover mod, it looks easier on the 5vze than on the 3.0. you don't need two passenger manifolds. just cut on the crossover ITSELF about 2" past the mating flange to each manifold (just basing this on a pic I saw of the 3.4's). that should allow you enough tube to be able to add more tube to route the rest of the way.
The dual in single out cat I've chosen to use as there is one front and one rear 02. the 02 bung is at the inlet of the cat, so it will still read both banks. note that I was going to use a dual 2" in/ single 2.5" out cat. May have to make a write up on this.
sorry, Didnt see this til just now. I'm guessing the 02 sensor wiring has a thick insulator with 12-14 gauge core. soldering is pretty simple, just leave about half an inch to 3/4 stripped insulation on each end. before you put the ends together, twist the wires around each other so they can't fray. slide some heat shrink down one side and now wrap the two ends together. with the solder, use rosin core and hold the iron/gun on the bottom of the joint. it should get the wires hot enough that when you touch the solder to the top, it will melt and get sucked down around every strand. Dont try to just melt and drip the solder onto the connection. slide your heatshrink into place and use a heat gun/lighter/maybe hairdryer to shrink it.
The dual in single out cat I've chosen to use as there is one front and one rear 02. the 02 bung is at the inlet of the cat, so it will still read both banks. note that I was going to use a dual 2" in/ single 2.5" out cat. May have to make a write up on this.
sorry, Didnt see this til just now. I'm guessing the 02 sensor wiring has a thick insulator with 12-14 gauge core. soldering is pretty simple, just leave about half an inch to 3/4 stripped insulation on each end. before you put the ends together, twist the wires around each other so they can't fray. slide some heat shrink down one side and now wrap the two ends together. with the solder, use rosin core and hold the iron/gun on the bottom of the joint. it should get the wires hot enough that when you touch the solder to the top, it will melt and get sucked down around every strand. Dont try to just melt and drip the solder onto the connection. slide your heatshrink into place and use a heat gun/lighter/maybe hairdryer to shrink it.
