Need advice Which Mobil One oil are you running?

You do not have to convince me that Mobil 1 is no good. Use whatever you want.

Not trying to convince you of anything. Mobil 1 would likely be my go to if I didn't have genuine Toyota oil as an option.

Just saying Toyota oil is completely different formula made specifically for Toyota to their spec by Mobil. Its not the normal Mobil 1 you find on the shelves.
 
I’ve stuck with the brand too but just get whichever blend they have on sale, last time it was their SUV one. Probably all the same at the end of the day…
42d006aa792f0de7347382db60e7508e.png
 
Far less than 1% of us will ever own our truck long enough to see a motor oil related issue, besides leaks.
Seems like I’m seeing pushback again on extended intervals. The Car Car Nut recently got a scope and has been showing cylinder wear he attributes to extended OCIs.
Just for the record, my 2010 5th Gen maintenance guide requires 5k oil changes. They reprinted these in January 2010 to show 10k.
Toyota is considered a very good oil by many, I’d like to know where [MENTION=111516]Forgetful[/MENTION] gets it cheap.

I’m team M1 Extended Protection and I moved up in viscosity (5W-30) and down in my OCI (4K-7.5k miles depending on use). I tend to use my truck in hot places like Mojave.
YMMV
 
The only consideration for oil is if it meets specs and what additives are in it. It’s totally subjective and most people change those oil to often. Now that I said it I’ll tell you I’m stuck on ams since my motocross days and even after having oil analyzed professionally still change too often just to make myself feel better.


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I’ve stuck with the brand too but just get whichever blend they have on sale, last time it was their SUV one. Probably all the same at the end of the day…
42d006aa792f0de7347382db60e7508e.png

was just checking to see if anyone else has used this, on sale at $11.65 for 5qt jug
 
As stated above, the correct answer, of course, is that it doesn't matter.

However, you should feel free to join the official "oil OCD" thread, where you can discuss the phantom benefits of one type of oil over another to your heart's content. 400 posts and they still haven't reached a consensus: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...oil-recommendation-new-owner.html#post3370853

370K miles on our 2014 SR5 and she has seen more different brands of 0w20 oil than Diddy abused women. Currently running Valvoline Restore and Protect 0w20 and the oil color is still clear at 5K miles (to be changed shortly).

There are Toyota oil fans here saying the OEM oil formulation is different, pointing to its high Molybdenun content. Well apparently Moly is not all that great in high levels:

Molybdenum additives have been replacing ZDDP in European oils for several years now as the high contact pressure alternative.
It is now being reported that in higher concentrations the "moly" compounds are conductive and causing galvanic corrosion of copper.

Since Europe has many more diesels, this is showing up in engine bearing failure here were higher pressure loads require higher concentrations of the additive. A 2017 report also sights new "petrol" cars having the same problems - bearings with copper bonding layers separating and failing. "Moly" additives are now showing up in North America more.

So, if replacing your engine bearings going forward I think aluminum would be the way to go.”
 
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In the US, Toyota Care provides free scheduled maintenance for the first two years or 25,000 miles at your Toyota dealer. Thus you don't need to worry about what oil you should use for two years.

We passed on their free oil changes. They gave us free replacement wipers instead. I would spend as much time (25 minutes) driving one way to the
dealer than it takes me to do the oil change. My time is too valuable to sit and wait at a dealership for an oil change.
 
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We passed on their free oil changes. They gave us free replacement wipers instead. I would spend as much time (25 minutes) driving one way to the
dealer then it takes me to do the oil change. My time is too valuable to sit and wait at a dealership for an oil change.

175 miles to the nearest Toyota dealer for me! Besides, doing the oil change myself allows me to do a careful check of the engine bay and underneath of the rig to make sure there's no developing problems. And I give the zerks on the driveshafts a tiny shot of grease while I'm down there.
 
175 miles to the nearest Toyota dealer for me! Besides, doing the oil change myself allows me to do a careful check of the engine bay and underneath of the rig to make sure there's no developing problems. And I give the zerks on the driveshafts a tiny shot of grease while I'm down there.

Amazing how you can catch things early when you do your own maintenance. I caught the transfer case input seal leak at 340K and the rear main engine seal at 360K. Both have been addressed with me pulling the transfer case and replacing seals and our mechanic replacing the transmission and replacing rear main seal at the same time.
 

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