Need new rack and pinion. And recommendations?

kolelt

New member
So my rack and pinion is bad. Can still drive it but it's shot. Any recommendations? I just looked at topic about Safari LTD. and people said it's nothing special. My friend is a mechanic and can get parts for a lot cheaper then regular through the shop. Should I just go high end aftermarket ?
 
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I'm pretty sure the Safari rack was a rebranded A1 Cardone steering rack. I'd look into those or whatever RockAuto lists. Keep an eye on the warranties for them too.
 
So my rack and pinion is bad. Can still drive it but it's shot. Any recommendations? I just looked at topic about Safari LTD. and people said it's nothing special. My friend is a mechanic and can get parts for a lot cheaper then regular through the shop. Should I just go high end aftermarket ?

Safari LTD would not give me crap for info. I believe it was rebranded. They are not in business anymore I dont believe.

IMO OEM OEM OEM. Its expensive but just the tie rods are $125 each that are included.

I went with a new $300 unit back in the day from a company thats out of business. Both tie rod ends failed, it leaks and is starting to loosen up.

If you wheel (and I know you do) OEM is the way to go. If you are going to keep this rig for another 100+ miles its worth it.
 
Safari LTD would not give me crap for info. I believe it was rebranded. They are not in business anymore I dont believe.

IMO OEM OEM OEM. Its expensive but just the tie rods are $125 each that are included.

I went with a new $300 unit back in the day from a company thats out of business. Both tie rod ends failed, it leaks and is starting to loosen up.

If you wheel (and I know you do) OEM is the way to go. If you are going to keep this rig for another 100+ miles its worth it.

What's the price range for OEM? The rack and pinion comes with inner tie rods ?
 
I've seen people get them got about 500. It does come with brand new itre's
 
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I've seen people get them got about 500. It does chime with brand new itre's

Nice. That's actually not bad. Considering it's OEM, with new inner tie rods and how important it is to the vehicle.

Hopefully my friend can get it cheaper through his shop.
 
If mine ever needs replacing I will only go OEM. I HATE doing things twice because of cheap parts. I've replaced my alternator 3 times, and finally got a Denso in it. I should have never bought the cheap non OE alternator in the first place...
 
If mine ever needs replacing I will only go OEM. I HATE doing things twice because of cheap parts. I've replaced my alternator 3 times, and finally got a Denso in it. I should have never bought the cheap non OE alternator in the first place...

Im starting to believe my loose front end is my $300 new rack I bought. Im kicking myself in the ass because I had to buy OEM tie rod ends later one. So I paid OEM price for mine but didnt get OEM. Ohh well. Live and learn.
 
If mine ever needs replacing I will only go OEM. I HATE doing things twice because of cheap parts. I've replaced my alternator 3 times, and finally got a Denso in it. I should have never bought the cheap non OE alternator in the first place...

Lucky me. I have a spare alternator, 2 OEM starters, AC compressor, power steering pump. All from Jdm motor. When I did swaP
 
Im starting to believe my loose front end is my $300 new rack I bought. Im kicking myself in the ass because I had to buy OEM tie rod ends later one. So I paid OEM price for mine but didnt get OEM. Ohh well. Live and learn.

In going to go OEM. I agree 100%. Tired of replacing something and it goes to shit month later. Not to mention you get OEM ITR. This also explains why I have a loose front end when off roading. I knew something was wrong a while back. Just lately it started to go to shit. Probably original steering rack from 97 lol
 
I recently replaced the rack assy. on my 98. I originally bought a new rack from Napa. Installed it myself then had it aligned. There was a rattle from inside of the rack and it would make noise like it was low on fluid or not bleed well.

Luckily a friend of mine works at Napa and I was able to return the rack for a complete refund.

I have since replaced the rack with a Toyota rack and have not had any issues.

I'm still out a few hundred since I had to get the alignment done twice.

I definitely recommend replacing it with nothing but an OEM Toyota part!
 
I know it's not regarding the rack directly, but have you replaced your LCA cams and bushings? If the rack is out and you have to get an alignment anyway... it would pay in the long run to do it now.
 
I know it's not regarding the rack directly, but have you replaced your LCA cams and bushings? If the rack is out and you have to get an alignment anyway... it would pay in the long run to do it now.

The bushings are in good shape. It's such a pain in the ass to do LCA bushing.
 
And Hey, use the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made doing a steering rack swap for Sean's friend Dave.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wZoRP5ogrK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
And Hey, use the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made doing a steering rack swap for Sean's friend Dave.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wZoRP5ogrK0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thank you sir.

Got me thinking about the LCA bushings. What would you guys recommend? Replace bushings with OEM or replace new OEM LCA.

I remember there was a good write up to replacing LCA bushings. With all part numbers. Includin new bolts, all new hardware for adjusting the wheel alignment
 
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Thank you sir.

Got me thinking about the LCA bushings. What would you guys recommend? Replace bushings with OEM or replace new OEM LCA.

I remember there was a good write up to replacing LCA bushings. With all part numbers. Includin new bolts, all new hardware for adjusting the wheel alignment

You save money by replacing the bushings instead of paying for a whole new LCA. If you go the bushing replacement route, I'd recommend either using OEM or aftermarket Whiteline poly bushings.

And, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video for this as well. There is a chance your cam adjusters will be rusted into the sleeve of the bushing. It this happens, you have to use a reciprocating saw and cut on both sides of the bushing to free the arm from the frame. I recommend Diablo Demon Carbide Tipped Blades. I've heard they are awesome and will lessen your cutting time dramatically.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kmaZNBp1gZM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
These guys are in MI, good prices & Life warranty.
https://detroitaxle.com/product-category/steering/rack-pinion/

--------------------------------------------------------------

Our Rack and Pinions, Axles, and Driveshafts are remanufactured in Ferndale, MI.

Dearborn Axle and Detroit Axle names are interchangeable, we operate under both names. We have been selling to the local market as Dearborn Axle for over 20 years and began transitioning to the Detroit Axle brand about 4 years ago as we went to a larger scale and began our eCommerce division. We plan to drop the Dearborn name over the next year or so and just be Detroit Axle all the way.

In regards to our website, we are building a better one! I have a team of 3 that is putting together the database of parts so that everything will be properly searchable and with the correct, clean looking picture. We took to many shortcuts with displaying our products in the past and now we are going to make sure we do it right!
 
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I'm a firm believe in all things OEM. However, this is one of those parts I can't bring myself to buy. This is mainly due to the 2-3ish year lifespan of every rack I've had since bumping up to 35's (I also do a generous amount of hard wheeling).

If you don't have 35's or wheel a bunch then I think OEM is the way to go, if you can afford it.

If you're like me though, and tend to go through racks rather quickly I've found a great rack for the price and it's a brand new unit. The AAE 3273N is what I believe to be a great alternative for those that can't dish out the $$$ for a new OEM or feel as if an OEM is too costly to go through in such a short period of time. It can be found for around $250 without a core charge. RockAuto usually has the lowest price on it and you can also use the forum's discount.

This is my first time trying this rack and I have high hopes for it! I've had it for roughly 3 months now.

AAE 3273N Info
 

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