How many of you have removed rear shocks to find damaged bushings (upper)? I removed mine yesterday and found that the bushings on my radflo shocks were completely destroyed. I took a look at the stock bushings and they look a lot more durable because they have a metal 'plate' between the upper and lower rubber bushing. Have you just gone back to the manufacturer for replacement parts or did you come up with a better solution? The stock ones won't work since the 'pin' on the radflo is shorter and smaller diameter.
Need rear shock bushing advice
- Thread starter dahorst
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SouthernSS
New member
Those look like they've had plenty of wear. How old are they? I'd contact Radflo for some addtional bushings. I'm sure they're inexpensive and they'll be correct.
Yea, they sell them. Just wondering if there is something better. I feel like these failed prematurely.
Jono.ful
New member
did you have them torqued correctly? I've had my radflos on for 30,000km or so, my bushings look perfect still. the top nut should be tightened to the point where the bushings just start to bulge. as for the shaft "corrosion", from what I have read this is fairly normal for Radflo unfortunately. perhaps one our resident engineers can comment, but from what I know of it, this kind of surface discolouration is inconsequential
Hard to know, I didnt install them. It's more then just discoloration, there is some pitting. Maybe I'll use some jb weld or something to smooth it out. I took the shocks completely apart last night, and like the front, there was fluid in the nitrogen chamber - which means the fluid bypassed the ifp seals. I guess I'm disappointed that I haven't gotten much life out of these. I'll rebuild them and use synthetic fluid instead of the stock stuff. I have a suspicion that when it gets to -40 degrees Celsius here the stock fluid is like peanut butter consistency. When that stuff gets forced through the valve, I'm guessing the pressure builds up too much causing it to blow past the seals.
Oh, to top it off, the stupid 'allan bolt' they use to prevent the cover from loosening was seized...i had to drill it out. Now I have to fill that hole, drill and tape a new one and get a new bolt. It just keeps getting better!
Your shocks are trashed!
Buy new shafts, seal heads, and retainers with the allen set screw in it, and new spherical bearings for the lower rod ends.
DO not try and JB weld the pitting on the shaft, you will not get it fixed and cause way more damage to the seals when the shocks fully compresses.
FYI a synthetic fluid with the same weight as the "stock" radflo fluid will still be "peanut butter consistency" at -40C. You will probably not find a hydraulic fluid that will be the same weight at the temp ranges you see up there.
These might work S2 Racing Shock Oil
AMSOIL Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #5 Light
IMO scrap the shocks and buy something with less maintenance for the winter conditions you see in O'Canada. Bilsteins would work just fine.
Buy new shafts, seal heads, and retainers with the allen set screw in it, and new spherical bearings for the lower rod ends.
DO not try and JB weld the pitting on the shaft, you will not get it fixed and cause way more damage to the seals when the shocks fully compresses.
FYI a synthetic fluid with the same weight as the "stock" radflo fluid will still be "peanut butter consistency" at -40C. You will probably not find a hydraulic fluid that will be the same weight at the temp ranges you see up there.
These might work S2 Racing Shock Oil
AMSOIL Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #5 Light
IMO scrap the shocks and buy something with less maintenance for the winter conditions you see in O'Canada. Bilsteins would work just fine.
Jono.ful
New member
I'm having similar problems with my Radflos. waiting for a seal kit and the needle style nitrogen tool to come in from metaltech right now actually.
Engineer
New member
If you get a full rebuild cost from Radflo /local shop/ compare to buying parts/tools and doing it yourself I would be interested to hear what it is. When the time comes I hope to have a garage but I find it unlikely and most Apartment complex's in the area DO NOT like car work on the property which means my truck will sit at a friends house and I will have to find alternate means of transportation.....when the time comes I may end up buying a set of Bilsteins/OME and running those while I either take my time to rebuild the shocks or have them sent off. If nothing else it would allow me to not have to worry about transportation costs and to do a direct comaprison.....then I have store the Bilsteins till the next rebuild......1st world problems
A great example of why the "high end, blingy" shocks are not for everyone. Nothing against the OP or saying the wrong choice was made! But myself, like many new 4runner owners think/thought that kings/radflo/icon/fox are the cats a$$ and the best way to go. I realize not everyone has issues like these but having a high performance shock like those mentioned increases the maintenance needs and risk of performance degration. I will admit that mine look much much better at 20,000 miles the those but our winters are not as harsh.
A great example of why the "high end, blingy" shocks are not for everyone. Nothing against the OP or saying the wrong choice was made! But myself, like many new 4runner owners think/thought that kings/radflo/icon/fox are the cats a$$ and the best way to go. I realize not everyone has issues like these but having a high performance shock like those mentioned increases the maintenance needs and risk of performance degration. I will admit that mine look much much better at 20,000 miles the those but our winters are not as harsh.
I rebuild shocks on the side and 95% of the shocks I see here in CO are corroded from the O-ring on the seal head to the edge of the body. There never is any coating inside the body and add some water/Mag chloride/salt, dissimilar metals and they usually weld themselves together.
That's a little rash IMO. The product I bought is Lucas oil. I think ill give them one more shot.
I'm rebuilding them myself. I spoke to radflo today, they were quite helpful. I ordered new bushings (I already have the seal kits and nitrogen ports). I'll buff the shafts and decide then if filling the pits is a viable option.
Who's going to fill your shocks? I got a friend of a friend to refill mine with argon. Nobody in town will do nitrogen. I ordered the needle and the gauge from powertank. Awesome quality, $400 later once UPS was done charging me $73 in brokerage and after the 25% exchange rate. Almost had a heart attack.
Take it how you want but you will spend more in parts and shipping than a set of sealed off the shelf shocks. And you will have the same issues in 12-18 months because of the environment you operate in.
DO NOT try and fill and fix the shafts. The reason they pitted is they never go inside the shocks for the wiper seals to clean off the shaft so the road grime/mud/dirt stays and starts rust.
I've rebuilt 100's of shocks and IMO you need new shocks shafts at least, They aren't that expensive.
If you still want a rebuildable race shock go with Fox, they have Stainless shafts.
I appreciate the feedback.I know what your saying, I agree with what your saying but it's past the point of no return. I ordered the parts prior to discovering all the damage. So I'll give it a shot and hope for the best (but expect the worst) and replace with a sealed non rebuildable shock in the future or go with fox or some other brand that uses stainless shafts.
Try very fine emery cloth and a lathe to knock down the rust that you have. But it will return with out the coating there. It will keep the shaft seals from getting cut as soon.
Jono.ful
New member
I have a buddy that works for finning, they have nitrogen in their shop. any motorcycle or sled dealer should have been able to do it for you. Got my loss less nitrogen tool right from Radflo for $110. everything shipped on USPS, so no ridiculous brokerage, but yeah, the exchange hurt a little bit
Hey, what exactly did you get from radflo? Is it just the needle adapter or an entire gauge and needle?
Jono.ful
New member
I ordered the loss less needle tool with gauge. depending on your regulator set up, you may not need the gauge
