Nelsonmd's Build Thread

[topdown4runner]

I finally installed my Energy Suspension Steering Rack bushing yesterday, and it appears to have made a pretty big difference. The wheel wobbles alot less going over bumps now. It took me way too long to install though. The kit came with the bushings on the wrong metal collar, and me being an idiot, I didn't check to make sure it was the right one. Turns out it was the right length, but the inner hole diameter was too small, so I spent a long time trying to force the bolt through it to no avail. Eventually I figured it out and got the right one in there and got it in. It took an embarrassingly long time.

Awesome improvement for about $20. Probably the most bang for your buck I have spent so far.

Where did you get your kit, part # ?
I think I need to do the same thing to my '99 as it has severe steering wheel shake while driving.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Where did you get your kit, part # ?
I think I need to do the same thing to my '99 as it has severe steering wheel shake while driving.

Right Here:
4Runner Steering Rack Bushing Kit - Wheeler's Off-Road, Inc

It has helped alot with the wobble I had. Just be sure you put the right metal collar in it. My kit came with the bushings on the wrong one. The right one in my kit had been turned on one side to shorten it, so look for that.

 

[topdown4runner]

I guess I won't really know what you mean until I take it apart, but I will look for it.
Thanks

 

[topdown4runner]

O.K., just ordered the kit. Thanks!

 

[Nelsonmd]

ScanGauge Mount

Mounted the scangauge in place of the ashtray. It took a bit of sanding of the plastic on the sides to allow the scangauge to fit in there. I attached it on the top by some 3M industrial adhesive. It is pretty firm in there, hopefully it will stay there.

I originally had it inset further in, but I found that in normal driving position, I couldn't see the top line of the display, so I pulled it out a bit.

I think it looks great, and opens up the bottom DIN slot back up for storage.

 

[Satter]

Before pictures attached.
Couple notes on the pictures.
The wood around the radio and ignition still has the factory clear coating on the wood so its a pretty good match by just looking at it. The polyurethane isn't has thick though.
You can see where it pooled up some at the bottom of the wood under the vents, sanding would help which I did not do.
The close up of the yota system on the wood shows its not completely smooth and has some texture to it.

Wow! Now, that's real wood. If you check out the photos in my profile, they're low standard def, it looks like plastic. Maybe some Limited has fake and some had wood. Like you said, you have the gold package. So, that could be the reason why you have wood. It looks great btw.


Nelsonmd, great installation job. Looks real clean.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Duratrac's

Just updating the build thread...

Got a set of new Duratrac's, 265/75-16. They look awesome, and drive great. Unfortunately the dumb tire shop ignored my request for white letters in.

I am surprised how much they fill the wheel well.

I just bought the Ironman 1.8" lift from CJ80

I found generally good reviews of the Ironman products, figured I'd try it since it was relatively cheap. Always good to explore other alternatives outside of Toytec/OME/Stock

Now need to find some rears to match, thinking I'll just get OME 906 or 890's, and run front and back without spacers. I might try the RC nitro shocks from Wheelers' as they are cheap.

Any reason I shouldn't do that? Is there an OEM LC or taco shock that would work better, or something like that?

This should give me about a 2" lift which is what I wanted in the first place. I think all in all it should come to around $500 with all new stuff (I am getting wary of used stuff)

Hopefully I will have all this in within about 2 weeks, and can install it before I decide it isn't going to snow again and take the duratrac's off and store them till next winter, or a wheeling outing.

 

[durrell]

I bought the RC struts from Rocky Mountain Suspension here in NC (may be better for you since they drop ship from Tennessee) and they have been great. They are a bit stiffer than stock, and long enough for the extended travel.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Also, I have found that I still have some major steering wobble gremlins. The steering rack bushing replacement didn't solve all of them. Here is my list of stuff to check:

Steering Rack Guide
Upper and Lower Ball Joints - Any tips on how to check?
Steering column slip joint play

Any others I have missed?

 

[HuntNFish]

Congrats on the lift. Let me know when you want to install the bugger.

 

[durrell]

To fix my steering wobble:

-Rack bushings
-Inner and outer tie rod ends
-New tires/balance/alignment

My steering doesn't wobble at all now. I still have a slight driveline vibration but it is vastly improved over when I bought it.

 

[Nelsonmd]

To fix my steering wobble:

-Rack bushings
-Inner and outer tie rod ends
-New tires/balance/alignment

My steering doesn't wobble at all now. I still have a slight driveline vibration but it is vastly improved over when I bought it.

Good call, I forgot the tie rod ends...

 

[SkidPalace]

Congrats on the lift. Let me know when you want to install the bugger.

Hell yeah, count me in on that install party.

 

[Avarice]

Also, I have found that I still have some major steering wobble gremlins. The steering rack bushing replacement didn't solve all of them. Here is my list of stuff to check:

Steering Rack Guide
Upper and Lower Ball Joints - Any tips on how to check?
Steering column slip joint play

Any others I have missed?

To check the ball joints just look up a tutorial online. It essentially involves jacking up part of the car and sticking a pry bar or 2x4 under a wheel and reefing on it to see how much play it has. It's sort of hard to tell on your own so I had a mechanic friend check em for me.

If you plan on replacing the lower ball joints though, you may as well replace the uppers and definitely the tie rods. Seperating the LBJ from the tie rod is a major pain if your car is nicely rusted like mine. It's definitely faster to just unbolt the LBJ and then take off the tie rod with both still together.

If you decide to do it, please for the love of god start spraying the jam nut on the tie rod end with some Aerokroil or PB blaster days prior. That honestly took me as long to get off as it did to take apart and replace the LBJ and TRE.

 

[JohnsD90]

Nice looking build thread, it would seem you truck has surpassed mine on axle housing rust, atleast you found a non rusty 1. Can't wait to see the lift.

 

[Hepar]

Looking good! And we just replaced Izz's tie rods and he says it's an epic difference in driving.

 

[Nelsonmd]

So my steering has seemed to get a bit worse, and it scares me a little bit when I hit bumps on the highway. I jacked it up last night and pulled the boot on the TRE's and found that I have the play shown here:

How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures - YotaTech Forums

So last night I ordered all the parts to replace the steering rack guide. I shook the wheel as hard as I could and didn't feel any play in the LBJ's or TRE's. I don't feel any play in the steering when turning it at a standstill with my head out the window watching the wheel. The LBJ boots look good, but I am considering replacing the LBJ's and TRE's anyway when I do the lift. I keep going back and forth because it is another $400 for the parts. If the rack guide doesn't solve it though, then I will definitely spend the dough. I don't like feeling unsafe.

Lots of stuff coming soon, possibly all at once. Glad a couple of you have already volunteered for the party.

 

[Nelsonmd]

All right, I am thinking lift install party this saturday (4/5), starting about 9AM.

Anyone in the Boston area is invited (just PM me). I will order a couple pizzas for lunch. Bring your favorite beer.

PM me if you need the address.

The plan is to install front and rear lift (ironman 1.8 in front, OME 906 and procomp shocks in rear), possibly LBJ's/TRE's, and possibly a new steering rack guide (or at least adjust my current one).

It will be cold, and my driveway's covered in snow and ice, but that will just keep our beers cold.:cheers:

 

[SkidPalace]

All right, I am thinking lift install party this saturday (4/5), starting about 9AM.

Anyone in the Boston area is invited (just PM me). I will order a couple pizzas for lunch. Bring your favorite beer.

PM me if you need the address.

The plan is to install front and rear lift (ironman 1.8 in front, OME 906 and procomp shocks in rear), possibly LBJ's/TRE's, and possibly a new steering rack guide (or at least adjust my current one).

It will be cold, and my driveway's covered in snow and ice, but that will just keep our beers cold.:cheers:

I should be around this weekend. I'll let you know later on this week.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Well, I got the new steering rack guide in, and it turns out I got the wrong one. I got the old design, which is the same as is already on there. I installed it anyway because the wobble is scaring me on the highway and I am desperate to fix it. I overtightened the guide a bit, so my steering is stiff right now, but there is a huge difference in the wobble. I still have wobble, but I don't have any play anymore. I get what I would call "feedback wobble" instead of "looseness wobble". I am no longer scared going over potholes on the highway (which there are alot of now that the snow and ice have melted away)

So anyway, I will loosen it a bit this weekend to get rid of the steering resistance, but even with a guide of the old design, big improvement.

Suspension going in tomorrow...