New UCA's or not?
- Thread starter deedst4r
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bensanders
New member
Are you keeping the same size tires as listed in your sig? If so, I don't think they would be necessary.
bensanders
New member
This brings up a good point that I've been thinking about. Are there any negatives to not upgrading the UCA's when adding a lift? From what I understand, adding a lift makes it more difficult to bring the alignment/camber/caster back into proper spec. Plenty of people add lifts in the 0"-3" range and get by without upgrading the UCAs, but I'm sure a lot of this has to do with tire size.
Long story short...what additional wear is incurred when keeping stock UCAs after adding a lift? Unless it's impossible to bring the vehicle back into spec after adding a significant lift w/ large tires, why would one need new UCAs?
Sorry to hijack, just seems relevant
Long story short...what additional wear is incurred when keeping stock UCAs after adding a lift? Unless it's impossible to bring the vehicle back into spec after adding a significant lift w/ large tires, why would one need new UCAs?
Sorry to hijack, just seems relevant
alex56
New member
I think you should instead of putting 400+ dollars into UCA's, Invest in a set of bigger tires and spidertrax, Those 265's (even with spacers added) are not gunna be a good look with a full 3" lift, and your handeling is gunna lack. + your rig is gunna feel pretty top heavy like driving a UPS truck, and your gunna have such a narrow stance with 265's w/out spacers regardless, its gunna make you feel like your gunna roll when turning lol
With every vehicle ive owned, and have lifted, they have to have bigger tires just for saftey and proper handeling. Theres a reason why monster trucks have regulations now on tires no less then 66" in height 43" in diameter.
Just my 2cents
Just keep that in mind for your new lift
Hope it goes well :hatsoff:
With every vehicle ive owned, and have lifted, they have to have bigger tires just for saftey and proper handeling. Theres a reason why monster trucks have regulations now on tires no less then 66" in height 43" in diameter.
Just my 2cents
Just keep that in mind for your new lift
Hope it goes well :hatsoff:
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ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
I have the ome lift with 32s and don't have any of the issues mentioned above. It feels way more solid and stable that stock. I'm also running a narrow tire, and have tried it with and without wheel spacers. So, I completely disagree with the above statements.
As for new ucas, they aren't needed if you stay at or under 3"lift. They factory ones have enough adjustment to get everything back in spec at that height.
As for new ucas, they aren't needed if you stay at or under 3"lift. They factory ones have enough adjustment to get everything back in spec at that height.
sonerick
New member
I just installed SPC/Light Racing UCA's about a week after installing my lift. Here are my thoughts:
The tech that did my alignment couldn't get the caster in spec after the new lift. Camber and toe were perfect, but not caster. As a result, the truck had a slightly twitchy feel to it, especially at highway speeds. Some have claimed that they can get the caster pretty close to spec after a 3" lift, but you probably have to personally know the alignment tech to get him to spend the time to get it right. Honestly, you're NOT going to be able to get a PERFECT alignment without new UCA's, but you can probably get it close enough that you won't have any issues. As long as camber and toe are in spec, you will not have any strange tire wear or anything.
That being said, I do recommend new UCA's. They definitely allow you to get your alignment PERFECT. After I installed the UCA's, the tech got the alignment to the exact specs I gave him (and this was the same on both sides):
Toe-0.04
Camber-0.00
Caster-3.0
As a result, handling is now the same as it was stock. The new UCA's definitely made a difference, and really aren't very hard to install.
I suggest that you do the lift, get your truck aligned, and see where the numbers fall. Then if you're not 100% happy, install the new UCA's and get it re-aligned. I managed to have the shop perform the re-alignment at no charge since it was less than 30 days since the previous alignment that I had paid them for.
Hope this helps, and look forward to seeing some before/after pics!
The tech that did my alignment couldn't get the caster in spec after the new lift. Camber and toe were perfect, but not caster. As a result, the truck had a slightly twitchy feel to it, especially at highway speeds. Some have claimed that they can get the caster pretty close to spec after a 3" lift, but you probably have to personally know the alignment tech to get him to spend the time to get it right. Honestly, you're NOT going to be able to get a PERFECT alignment without new UCA's, but you can probably get it close enough that you won't have any issues. As long as camber and toe are in spec, you will not have any strange tire wear or anything.
That being said, I do recommend new UCA's. They definitely allow you to get your alignment PERFECT. After I installed the UCA's, the tech got the alignment to the exact specs I gave him (and this was the same on both sides):
Toe-0.04
Camber-0.00
Caster-3.0
As a result, handling is now the same as it was stock. The new UCA's definitely made a difference, and really aren't very hard to install.
I suggest that you do the lift, get your truck aligned, and see where the numbers fall. Then if you're not 100% happy, install the new UCA's and get it re-aligned. I managed to have the shop perform the re-alignment at no charge since it was less than 30 days since the previous alignment that I had paid them for.
Hope this helps, and look forward to seeing some before/after pics!
deedst4r
New member
Thanks for the detailed responces guys.
I will not be up sizing my tires because these are brand new. I have seen 265/70's with the OME lift and liked the look. So i am not worried about the smaller size tires.
I am going to do what sonerick advised. I will hold off on the UCA's until i am pretty unhappy with my alignment. I will be sure to post pics though! Thanks for the help y'all!
I will not be up sizing my tires because these are brand new. I have seen 265/70's with the OME lift and liked the look. So i am not worried about the smaller size tires.
I am going to do what sonerick advised. I will hold off on the UCA's until i am pretty unhappy with my alignment. I will be sure to post pics though! Thanks for the help y'all!
I did exactly what sonerick said. I have the ds 2.5/1.5 spacer kit. At highway speeds it is twitchy. That bugs me, I just ordered the spc ucas from amazon. My caster is off even after a two hour attempt by the tech. Toe and camber in spec. I have a thread on this if you want the details.
alex56
New member
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sonerick
New member
alex56 said:
I don't mean to nit-pick, but OME springs (884/885) with ANY shocks will yield approx. 3" up front. Remember, it's the springs that provide the lift, not the shocks.
**Caveat: Coilovers & Bilstein 5100s do allow you adjust the spring perch for additional preload/lift, but when installing OME springs, the 5100 spring perches are typically left on the 0"/stock setting.**
But I digress. This thread is about UCA's. Deeds, good luck with your install!
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teampwr2
New member
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
First off, nowhere in that comment I made about switching to 33's did I mention doing so because of the handling. I'm planning on a 1.5" body lift, at that time bigger tires will be needed. It's most definitely not because I'm not happy with the way it handles currently. Every day I take the interstate on ramps that loop around. I'm able to take these faster than I could in stock form, with less body roll (and the feeling of tipping over).
I find it funny that you question my setup, yet your only experience is riding in your buddies for a "short while". There are plenty of people here running the full OME setup, some with 32's and 33's, very few if any have mentioned feeling unsafe during turns.
Let's compare the 265/70/17 that the OP has to my 255/75/17's. Mine are .4" taller and .4" narrower than his, that's pretty close. You must realize that each tire measures differently, just because they have the same numbers on the side doesn't mean they're an exact match. It'd be pretty easy to find two 265/70/17 tires that vary in height or width by 1/2". Mine are still a 32" tire, which is what you're comments are directed towards. The wider the tire is, the more it'll help you feel more stable. Mine being narrower, the issue you speak of should be worse.
Now, I'm running the stock rear now, I previously ran the Bilstein rear shocks. I switched because the OEM shocks are softer, I needed that with the rear air system. This is irrelevant because you're saying that with a 3/2 lift 265's aren't enough to make it feel stable. With OME 885's, I'm at 3" front, and I have my rear air bags adjusted for 1.75" lift (not less than 1" as you state). So, I know it feels like to drive on this setup, I do it every day. Next time you may want to do a little research before spitting out numbers.
I suggest you do less posting and more reading. Shocks, with the exception of the Bilstein's that use the adjustable perch, do not provide lift. Coils provide lift. OME coils with OME shocks or 5100's, doesn't matter. Lift will be the same. The OME 885's will provide 3" lift on a v8 4runner, regardless of the shock used. Read up on how coil spring suspensions work and you'll see that the coils provide the support, shocks provide the dampening. So you saying that using Bilsteins with the OME's means I have only 2" lift is way off.
While you're reading, why don't you read up on tire sizes as well. Yes, a wider tire will help you feel more stable. However, a taller tire will also raise the center of gravity, thus having a negative affect on the stability. A 32x12.50 will be more stable than a 32x10.50. However, when you compare that to a 33x12.50, you loose the benefits of the wider tire. A 285/70/17 is 1.1" taller and .8" wider than a 265/70/17. The added height will kill any benefit that the added width will provide. The reason I said in the comment you quoted that I want a wider 33 is for exactly this reason. In order to keep the handling similar to what I have now, when I go taller (because of the body lift), I'm going wider as well. Same reason I ran a 35x12.50 on my GMC with offset wheels. Since I increased the height of the tire, I also wanted to increase the width. How many tires have you seen that are tall and narrow? There's a reason tire manufacturers only offer the taller sizes in a wide tire.
I'm not saying that it's not possible to make a 4runner top heavy so that it feels like it'll roll during turns. However, I am saying that that with a 3/2 lift, especially with coils that are stiffer than stock, this isn't an issue, even with 265's. With a 3/2 spacer lift, body roll is a small issue, not nearly as bad as you make it out to be. With the OME's, which are ~40% stiffer than stock, this isn't an issue at all.
I've said my piece. We can agree to disagree if you so choose. I'm done here, this thread isn't even about the lift setup the OP has chosen. If you refuse to acknowledge the facts, then so be it. There are plenty of folks here that'll support what is said in this post, I don't need you're approval to make a point.
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TheTuckerTaxi
Member
Good decision, it's worked for some and hasn't worked for others. I got the UCA's because I found them used at a great price. I bet once you get the lift you will be itching for bigger meats! Pics!!
jason04
New member
ARK SWAMP RIDER, I'm surprised you'd even dignify his comment with a response... regardless, you're spot on and the sad reality is it most likely fell on deaf ears. He's said the like in other threads.... OME & 32's looks and rides wonderfully... BTW, WTF do you care!
Back on track...
OP, I've been on 33's and about a 2 1/2 - 3 inch lift for over 3 years with the stock upper control arms and I'm happy with how it rides and tire wear is normal. You'll feel the truck "wonder" a bit at higher speeds. For $400 + bucks I'm just fine with it... If it drives ya bonkers after a few weeks/months get the aftermarkets ones. Chances are if money is a little tight for ya, you'll be just fine with the OME kit & stock UCA's.
Best of luck with the install!
Back on track...
OP, I've been on 33's and about a 2 1/2 - 3 inch lift for over 3 years with the stock upper control arms and I'm happy with how it rides and tire wear is normal. You'll feel the truck "wonder" a bit at higher speeds. For $400 + bucks I'm just fine with it... If it drives ya bonkers after a few weeks/months get the aftermarkets ones. Chances are if money is a little tight for ya, you'll be just fine with the OME kit & stock UCA's.
Best of luck with the install!
ARK_SWAMP_RIDER
New member
Honestly, I don't care what alex56 says. However, I do care that there's inaccurate info being given. The OP got an answer to his question. I wanted to take the time to respond so that anyone reading this in the future isn't mislead by that information.
Fact is, lifting a vehicle raises the center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. Adding taller tires only lifts it more, and makes this problem even worse, not better. That said, I'm done here. You all can read this for yourself and decide which is right.
Casper421
New member
I have the same setup except with a TO spacer and 285's and the shop had no problems getting my alignment back to spec. I was gonna buy some LR uca's to fix the alignment issues but there were none. I would see how it drives after the alignment and then make a decision. Good luck! You'll love the lift you got!
deedst4r
New member
I have waited to buy for two reasons. I am worried about my CV boots but more importantly, i do a lot of highway driving and i am worried about that without perfect alignment. So here are my options, 1) wait till i get enough money for UCA's and the lift or 2) just buy the daystar 2.5/1.5 lift. Opinions? comments? thanks guys.
