nglayton's Mod Thread

[nglayton]

Not a build thread because I'm not really building anything. But lots of mods.

**Please Note** At one time all the links below were correct, then t4r.org went thru some hell'ish growth spurt, where the admins f'd up the whole thing. I corrected the links, then a forum software was hacked, then upgraded and it f'd them all up again. So I gave up trying to police them. Just know if you scroll through all the pages you'll find the write ups from the headers eventually.

**Second Note**Let's not forget the mods/owners of this site also f'd up the pictures. All of my write-ups at one time had pics. They were ether uploaded directly or hosted on my personal server. I was never a photobucket user so that debacle didn't affect me. Looking back at my hard work taking pics and writing up everything in my thread I see it has now gone all to shit. Again, thank the mods/owners for a job poorly done and not preserving years of history and info. Oddly enough if I use firefox the pics all show up, but the links are jacked up even worse. The links to the pics are correct so it's not that.


ARB Drawer install – 2011 TE with Sliding tray - Keep reading, Scroll down.........

Adding More Tie Downs
ARB Compressor Install Click here
DC Power XP-270 Install pics & Notes
Bud Built Hidden Winch Mount install
Hidden Winch install
Revtek 432 Lift Install Pics
Sleeping Deck mod
Lift Gate Strut Replacement
Brake Info
Ordering My 4Runner
Techstream
Key Programming
Dual Battery install/upgrade
TRD CAI install
Custom Group 65m Battery Tie Down
Warn ZEON 10-S Platinum Control pack relocation
Toyota OEM LED fog lights install pics
Roam Adventure Boxes!!
LED Headlight install fail - cheap products
Arc Light interior LED UPGRADE
Custom Made Engine Bay Storage Tray
Remote Start via iPhone - Accessorides
Power Folding Mirror Install
Beat-Sonic TVK-10 Video in Motion and NAVI Control Bypass
Low Profile XM Antenna
Updated Tail End Lighting
Midland MXT400 Install
S-Tech Switch System
Heated steering wheel
Dasaita G13 head unit




ARB Drawer install – 2011 TE with Sliding tray

After stealing everyones ideas for about 5-6 years on this forum I decided it was finally time to make a write up of my own. Don’t get me wrong, I still stole plenty of ideas (like all of them) for this write up from [MENTION=138641]ArrArr[/MENTION] and his write up here →http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/231647-arb-drawer-install-overview.html#post2582276

Having a sliding tray made it a bit different and hopefully this can help someone in the future with a similar setup.

Having participated in the last group buy → http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group-buys/232373-**group-buy-arb-drawers**.html#post2595272 , I now had the exciting task of getting these babies installed. I also want to thank [MENTION=122940]ramonortiz55[/MENTION] for all of these awesome group buys he keeps putting together. He has either saved or cost me $1000’s depending on how you look at it….


I opted for the low profile drawers with the roller top. (RF945US) I was kind of hoping that this would be a plug-n-play install, but as my wife ever so kindly reminded me it was more like hope-n-pray. The only thing I really did differently than ArrArr is I used carpet over the painted board and I choose to stick with the factory OEM mounting holes rather than make my own holes.

First step is to remove the existing slide out tray and the little hidden compartment behind it. [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] has a most excellent how to here → http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-sliding-tray-5th-gen-limited.html#post497691


Before……….

Almost there…….

Finished tray removal. I’m still on the fence about keeping this piece of carpet in or not. It’s not the sturdiest thing I’ve seen from Toyota. I don’t think it will hold up over time. All of those raised ridges you see have hard Styrofoam under them, except the ones on the left and right near the wheel well humps. Odd design for under the sliding tray when no one can see it most of the time.

Overall this only took about 15-20 minutes to remove the whole sliding tray. Using harper7’s instruction it was really easy to do.

I also pulled the carpet up but in the end I ended putting it back in, because even though it would ultimately be covered, I wanted the more finished look. I think the carpeting will also help deaden the sound. Plus the built in foam ridges will help me keep the whole setup level. I think if I did this again or have to take it out for any reason that I will leave the carpet out and see if I can get the whole setup to sit down farther into the hole. I’m not sure how well the Styrofoam will hold up to the added weight, but I’m going to find out.

I cut the board 38” x 41.25” . I know that ArrArr cut his to 38x41, but in measuring mine it was easily 41.25” I almost cut it to 41.5” wide, but then decided to play it safe and go with only 41.25”. I used ¾” plywood, or well as close to ¾’s as I can buy these days, I believe it was actually 23/32” but the board was stamped with .6xxx thickness, so whatever, it's plenty thick enough.

Then I painted the board black…

Then installed the board, it still fits perfect, but I wasn’t happy with the look………It also sits up higher than I wanted because of the oem carpet and the foam bracing under it. For now this is as good as it gets, I just needed to do something, anything and this is where I landed. if I redo this at any point I think I will take the carpeted foam humps out so this can sit lower in the bed.

So since I didn’t like the painted look, I decided as ArrArr suggested to go with some cheap black carpet. Lowes didn’t have anything but light gray, weak charcoal or jet black, so I went with the black. I bought a 6’ x 6’ piece for $27.xx but it was easily at least 2 feet too much. I purposely bought extra since it’s been awhile since I carpeted anything. I think I could have easily spent about $9 less and just bought a 4’ x 6’ piece.

I hate corners……next time I will pay a shop to do this. But that is why I bought extra. By the time I got to the 4th corner I almost had it down pat.

Finish product installed in the bed, fits perfect. I’m glad I didn’t go with 41.5” wide cut on the board, The added width of the carpet made this just about right. Because the board sits up so high you could almost go about an inch wider and have it fill the space completely. But at the same time it’s just low enough that it would need so tapered cuts to drop in

If I had unlimited plywood and could afford several trial and error cuts, I might do it differently. This will work out fine for round one of this project.

I bought some M10-1.25x100 bolts ($3.64 ea) and fix the board down by screwing down thru the factory holes that the slide out tray was attached to. I will do the same in the front with some M6 bolts, but I haven’t found any even close to long enough yet to reach down to the factory holes. Looking for M6 fine thread about 125mm long or maybe more. Lowes near me only had M6 about 20mm long. I might have to resort to Amazon to find something that will work. I will also probably install these bolts by just removing the rear seats to get in and drill the holes. Taking the whole assembly out to do this would be painful. The included ARB install/spacer kit also has some spacers that I will probably use to help keep the front leveled.

Bad picture of the M10-1.25x100 bolt and washer holding the board down. But it’s covered by the drawers, so I can’t snap a better one.

Originally I was looking for some rounded pan head style screws to fasten the board down with, but I had no luck finding them. As you can see in the next several photos the drawers completely cover up both bolts so they are hidden and it really doesn’t matter.

Then after following the ARB instructions for fastening the drawers together I screwed the frames down to the board.

Here’s the finished install.

This is a couple of shots of the clearance with the rear seats folded up. Just a couple inches to spare, but it allows the rear seats to recline as normal.

Rear seat reclined all the way to the factory stops. No problem for me, but some inquiring minds might want to know this.

Here a shot of the clearance with hatch shut. Looking straight down from the open rear window. There is about 3 inches of clearance between the drawers and the hatch. Depending on where you screw down the drawer frames this can easily be adjusted forward or backward for your preference. I was getting tired and just wanted to finish this up so I just eyeballed it. I wanted the front edge of the drawer to line up with the front edge of the board/carpet. But that was just my preference. I could have run it forward about another inch before it hit the reclined rear seats.

Overall this took me about 6-7 hours, but that is mostly because I had no clue what I wanted and I had to go to Lowes to buy all the supplies once I figured out what I was going to do. If I had been prepared and didn’t stop to eat lunch I could have easily been done in half the time.

First I must say these ARB drawers are rock solid quality, hands down awesome. Expensive, but excellent.

I was disappointed with 2 things in the ARB Drawers.

The first issue is reinstalling of the roller tops after you have them installed the drawers in your rig. It requires 4 Phillips screws getting lined up through the slide and tightened into the stop blocks inside. The outside ones on each side are rough but easy to get in since you have room behind the wheel wells to get a screwdriver on them. The ones in between the two drawers are a major pain in @$$ to line up and almost impossible to tighten. ARB should have drilled a couple of access holes in the rail on each side so you can get a driver on these screws. To top it off you are tightening them into nylon lock nuts inside so they are hard to turn even if you had straight angles. In ArrArr’s write up it appears that his drawers have these holes, but the RF945US’s don’t appear to have them. I will double check them, but if I ever take them out and off the board again, I will drill the holes myself to make disassembly and reassembly a lot easier.

Second is shown below in the picture. It’s a small piece of plastic trim on the bottom of the drawer frame that arrived broken. It just flops around, flexing the whole time you are working with the drawers. It should have been taped down or something. I’m not really sure what its purpose is or why it’s there. I guess it’s just for looks and will eventually break off. I mounted the drawers so it hangs down in front of the board/carpet, it would just be nice if it wasn’t half broken before I got it.

One other disappointment is no 4runner specific install instructions or side panel kit. It would be nice considering everyone that buys these for the t4r.

 

[ArrArr]

Well done. Seeing the end result with it carpeted, I may pull mine out and carpet the board. That looks a whole lot cleaner.

In ArrArr’s write up it appears that his drawers have these holes, but the RF945US’s don’t appear to have them. I will double check them, but if I ever take them out and off the board again, I will drill the holes myself to make disassembly and reassembly a lot easier.

That's correct. For the full-height drawers there are 2 access holes in one drawer to access the slide bolts in the other drawer and vice versa. I'm surprised yours doesn't have this, because, as you mentioned, without the access holes it would be a major PITA to access.

Second is shown below in the picture. It’s a small piece of plastic trim on the bottom of the drawer frame that arrived broken. It just flops around, flexing the whole time you are working with the drawers. It should have been taped down or something. I’m not really sure what its purpose is or why it’s there. I guess it’s just for looks and will eventually break off. I mounted the drawers so it hangs down in front of the board/carpet, it would just be nice if it wasn’t half broken before I got it.

Ditto. The plastic trim covers 3/4 of the edge of the plywood for me, so I like it being there. I happened to read DirtRoadTrip's blog where he complained about it breaking off, so I knew to pay some attention to it. I wish it was just a simple bolt-on/click-on trim, rather than being fixed to the drawers. But, I'm glad it's there nonetheless.

 

[nglayton]

Well done. Seeing the end result with it carpeted, I may pull mine out and carpet the board. That looks a whole lot cleaner.

Yes, I was really pleased with how it turned out. I might even just make a second carpeted board to swap in an out if the drawers need to come out for extended periods of time. It was a whole lot better than the sliding cargo tray.

That's correct. For the full-height drawers there are 2 access holes in one drawer to access the slide bolts in the other drawer and vice versa. I'm surprised yours doesn't have this, because, as you mentioned, without the access holes it would be a major PITA to access.

Yes a major pita!, It took my about 20 minutes to get them all in and tight. With holes it would have taken about 30 seconds!

Ditto. The plastic trim covers 3/4 of the edge of the plywood for me, so I like it being there. I happened to read DirtRoadTrip's blog where he complained about it breaking off, so I knew to pay some attention to it. I wish it was just a simple bolt-on/click-on trim, rather than being fixed to the drawers. But, I'm glad it's there nonetheless.

Well, I wish I had seen that thread first as well. I might just screw it down to the front of the board. I'll probably wait until it breaks off and then decide if I like the looks with or with out it. I should just probably cut it off and get over it.

 

[ramonortiz55]

I really like those low profile drawers.

What are the INSIDE dimensions of them?

I don't recall seeing what kind of storage space where INSIDE of them.

 

[nglayton]

I really like those low profile drawers.

What are the INSIDE dimensions of them?

I don't recall seeing what kind of storage space where INSIDE of them.

They are not very big......the inside dimensions of the tray are

33 1/2" L x 16 3/8" W x 2 5/8" H

But there is a 5/8" lip all the way around for strength, effectively reducing the size of any object that you might want to just drop in by 1 1/4". It's great for small stuff (tools) you can tuck in underneath the lip. There is also about 1/8"- 1/4" room above the top lip that allows something just a little bit taller to still slide under.

 

[ramonortiz55]

They are not very big......the inside dimensions of the tray are

33 1/2" L x 16 3/8" W x 2 5/8" H

But there is a 5/8" lip all the way around for strength, effectively reducing the size of any object that you might want to just drop in by 1 1/4". It's great for small stuff (tools) you can tuck in underneath the lip. There is also about 1/8"- 1/4" room above the top lip that allows something just a little bit taller to still slide under.

so the usable height, drawers closed is about 2-5/8
minus 1-1/4??

 

[nglayton]

Here's a few more misc pics. I purposely mounted them as far to the left side (passenger) as possible, while still keeping them fully on the board. This left me with 2-3 inches on the right side, that I figured would be more useful than 1 inch or so on each side. I could probably gain another 1/2" on the left if I wanted to mount if partially off the board on the right side.

Hopefully the OCD won't set in and drive me nuts having it off center.:crazy:

This is what it looks like from the back fully reclined, about 1/2" clearance.

 

[nglayton]

so the usable height, drawers closed is about 2-5/8 minus 1-1/4??

Well, not quite, sorry for the confusion.

On the height, the drawer is 2-5/8" unless you are on the edges, then subtract 5/8" as the lip extends down.

So it really depends on how wide(or long) of an object you are trying to put in. If the items are centered in the drawer 2-5/8" is not a problem, even maybe 2-3/4" because of the small gap above the drawer, at the edges of the tray, tucked under the lip is 2" usable height.

 

[nglayton]

A few More things

I just wanted to wrap a few things up with this and have everything in one place.
A couple more posts and I’m done.

These are the bolts I ended up using to fasten the front end of the board down to the bed. M6 x 120mm Stainless Bolts

They were a bit long but still not a problem. I did end up just drilling and attaching these from the back seat area. I did not remove the rear seats, just folded them down enough to get my hands underneath and line things up. I used 3 of the round spacers from the kit under the board to help keep it level and from being pushed down. I also attached the OEM tie down D rings to the corners to give me a couple tie down points, without drilling the drawer tops. With the seats up you can't even see any of the bolts or tie downs.

Next up is I wanted to protect the carpet on top of the drawers, but I didn’t want to have anything custom made so I went back to Amazon and found a few things that were pre-made , that were close in size. I originally just tried using the OEM 4runner branded carpet that came with the rig, but then it was so wide every time I tried to slide one side out or the other it was a pain.

After a bit of trial and error I settled on these. Thin rubber mouse pad like product.

Black XXL Extended Gaming Mouse Mat / Pad - Large, Wide (Long)

They had several different sizes including some oversized ones that you could cut to the exact size if you prefer. For me this was close enough

I have 2-3 more items ordered for the back to finish it all up. They are on the way, I’ll post again when they arrive and I get them installed.

 

[nglayton]

Drip trays

I ordered 2 of these. They fit perfectly side by side on top of the drawers. I will use these when I’m hauling messy things or the cooler or anything that can leak out onto the carpet. I’ll probably fasten them down to the sliding tops.

Dog Crate Replacement Pan

They had several different sizes. These are the 36"
I guess there are also metal ones available if you really want to protect the top. I liked the black, it blends in better when peeping in thru the windows. It's not so obvious that there's something underneath.

 

[nglayton]

Tie Downs

Next on my list was to improve the cargo tie down situation. Basically it sucks in the back of this rig. (until now!)

I didn't like any of the D-ring options available at Lowes so I just ordered the OEM version. These are getting mounted in 2 places.

First place is the almost useless hooks.

I took the hook off, but the footprint is so huge the new D-ring exposes a hole in the head liner, so I just ripped off the cover and mounted them both together.

I don't know about you, but these are completely useless, I've never been able to successfully tie or hook anything to them, so I decided they needed to go.

I set out to figure out how to remove them. Turns out you can just pull them straight out with almost zero effort. It was so easy I'm surprised that I hadn't pulled them loose already. Just a pair of pliers and they yanked right out.

Inside is just an M6 Phillips head screw. I wanted to use this as my mount point. It's recessed in about 3/4". It holds the trim to the inside of the body.

The OEM screw in't long enough to mount the new D-rings, so I got some about 1/2" longer. You could get longer ones if you wanted, there nothing behind there except about another inch of open space. I had these already left over from another project so I just used them.

Then I found some 5/8" diameter bushing spacers 3/"4 inch long. I wanted the bushing/spacers so that I didn't crush the plastic trim when I tightened down the new bolts and the D-ring.

I put one washer behind the D-ring and one in front and tightened them all down. Repeated the whole process on the other side of the truck and I'm good to go.

Now I've got plenty of tie down options all over the back. :zoom:

Edit: I guess I was wrong, I added more....

 

[nglayton]

Tray Organizers

I found a low profile tray organizer for my wrenches on Amazon.
Tool Sorter Wrench Organizer - Red

Now I just need to find a solution for the sockets sets I carry around.
Has anyone found a good way to keep sockets in the toolbox drawers?

 

[nglayton]

After using this for the last 3 weeks or so, oddly enough, not enough tie down locations to do exactly what I want. I've ordered some more of the OEM tie downs and I will update this with a few pics when I get them installed.

 

[nglayton]

More Tie Downs Added

After waiting a couple weeks for more of the OEM tie downs to arrive, they finally showed up.

I added a couple more tie downs across the back in the gap between the drawers and the back seats. I have 5 of them across the back now, that should give me plenty of options. That's not counting the 3 on the back seats that I totally forgot about until now.

I wanted some more options on the front of the drawers, so I bought some 5/16" bolts 3/4" inch long as well as some washers and nylon lock nuts.

I Drilled some holes in the corners of the drawers and mounted the tie down using the nuts and bolts. 3/4" long bolts with a washer on each side turned out to be the perfect length for mounting. The bolts just finishes flush with the nylon lock nut on the inside of the drawers.

Now the only place that's left for tie downs is the top, but if I mount any there, I will use the screws that are holding the top to the slide. I don't really want to drill into the top. I don't see my self needing to tie anything down to the top that way, but you never know.

 

[nglayton]

FS: 2011 TE Sliding cargo tray.

My old sliding tray is for sale if anyone is interested.....

5th Gen For Sale/Wanted Thread - Page 272 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

**SOLD**

 

[nglayton]

 

[Cr4zy4runner]

Personally I just got tool foam and traced out my tools and cut it to them. Same with sockets, wrenches, etc. it's. low profile and no rattling. I've seen others use crown royal bags to keep their sockets


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nglayton]

ARB Compressor Install

Again, another great group buy came and went and I was the lucky owner of an ARB single compressor (CKMA12). I had to find a place to mount my new compressor. In my 2011 there’s a great spot up against the firewall on the passenger side.

Being a cheap b@st@rd, I didn’t want to pay $100+ for a Bandi mount. Besides that some of the mount points he uses have long been used up for my dual battery system components. I also didn’t want to pay to have a pro install it so I just made my own mounts. Using just scraps I had laying around the shop, I did some measurements and came up with a quick little set of brackets, that I welded together. This bracket cost me $0!!! Just about an hour fab time. Perfect!

I made two ibeam shaped legs, one of the 4” high and the other 5” high and bolted then to existing studs in this area. I had a mess of metric nuts and found 2 that fit and tightened them down. This created 2 legs for the base of my platform that were just about level.

Then for the 3rd support I decide to come straight off the firewall where this cable bracket is installed.

I made a brace that comes forward about 10 inches or so to be level with the forward most ibeam bracket from the picture above., Then I welded the end of that down to the base of the forward ibeam bracket for added stability.

Then I took a flat sheet of steel and attached the compressor bracket to it. Made a couple of marks where I wanted to bend it all and got the torch out and started heating it u for the bend.

Once I had it bent, I mounted the compressor for a test fit.

Then I painted the bracket and screwed it to my fabbed up mounts. Over all it pretty flat and solid once I had it all screwed into place.

The wiring is a whole different story. I decided that I didn’t need to be able to turn it on from the cab. No lockers for me, probably never will, I just don’t use my rig that way. So, I just bought a 40a toggle switch and wired it up directly to my aux battery system.

The wiring harness that came with the compressor looked like it was hand made by a small captive child. That thing, while I am sure it was totally functional for it's intended purpose, was a total mess. I unwrapped every wire and stole the inline fuse and connectors out of it to wire it to my aux battery connection block. I also didn’t use the pressure shut off switch or the relay. Instead I opted for a pressure release valve on a T connection. When you flip the compressor on it builds up 100lbs then pops the release valve. Since I will only be using this for tires and air mattresses it will work fine this way. If I ever decide to add a air tank, I’ll go back to the wiring harness with the relay and pressure switch.


Then I added an official ARB dust cover (accessory bag, cut to fit) and I’m all set!

I probably could have made this lower or higher to the body. I could have easily made the legs 1" and 2" high and ran the firewall bracket down low and over for more room on top.

Or made the legs 6" and 7" high and ran the firewall bracket up high and over for room underneath the platform.

This would give me room for a tank or to store the air hose and fittings. For now we will see how this holds up.

Note: After a year I made an update --> ARB Compressor Install Update

 

[2chains]

Great pics and info...I have a similar mounting location for my compressor... are they recommending to keep covered when not in use?

 

[nglayton]

are they recommending to keep covered when not in use?

I'm not sure if they recommend it or not, I doubt it. But in looking at how dusty everything has gotten under my hood, I just thought I might as well do something to try and protect it.

I bought this bag from amazon ARB ARB504 Recovery Gear and General Accessories

I cut the zipper panel out of it, which is just enough space to flip it upside down and pop it over the whole setup.