Nitto Ridge Grappler?

No BMC for me, just the front bumper plastic trim. Just in bolt the liner, move it as far forward as possible, bolt it back into the bottom of the bumper, and trim the bumper flush with the liner.

Thanks alot! Im a little confused though as to what you mean by “move it as far forward as possible”? If you can elaborate or direct me to a link to this process, that would be very much appreciated. Thanks again!
 
For anyone wondering what 285/70/17 looks like on an unlifted TRD Pro, here's some pictures. There's only a 1/8" gap between the tire and the modded fender liner at full lock on a level surface, so I'm going to be lifting it this week.

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These look great. any rubbing on your UCA's?
 
How are these tires holding up for y'all? A lot of pages to look through. My shop will match Toyota's price for K02s at 1050+tax. He offered up these Nitto's as well, can't remember the price.
 
How are these tires holding up for y'all? A lot of pages to look through. My shop will match Toyota's price for K02s at 1050+tax. He offered up these Nitto's as well, can't remember the price.

Love mine so far, have about 10k miles on them currently. No complaints, will purchase them again when they wear out, probably go a up size tho.. :bigok:
 
How are these tires holding up for y'all? A lot of pages to look through. My shop will match Toyota's price for K02s at 1050+tax. He offered up these Nitto's as well, can't remember the price.

25,000 on mine and estimate half tread left (considering the fact that I buy tires before I get to the wear bars). I will be getting another set when needed.
 
Thanks alot! Im a little confused though as to what you mean by “move it as far forward as possible”? If you can elaborate or direct me to a link to this process, that would be very much appreciated. Thanks again!

Take a look under the front bumper on each corner. You will see (2) 10mm bolts that hold the fender liner to the bumper. Remove those bolts, push the liner forward so it's further from the tire, and bolt it back into the bumper. You'll have to make new holes in the liner but you will not need to drill new holes in the bumper. Once you do that, there will be a big plastic lip exposed in the fender well which is the area of the bumper that the tire rubs on. Get a nice sharp blade and slowly cut the plastic bumper skin away so it's flush with the newly placed fender liner. I slice sections at a time as to not go too far by accident. It'll all make sense when you look at it lol.
 
Take a look under the front bumper on each corner. You will see (2) 10mm bolts that hold the fender liner to the bumper. Remove those bolts, push the liner forward so it's further from the tire, and bolt it back into the bumper. You'll have to make new holes in the liner but you will not need to drill new holes in the bumper. Once you do that, there will be a big plastic lip exposed in the fender well which is the area of the bumper that the tire rubs on. Get a nice sharp blade and slowly cut the plastic bumper skin away so it's flush with the newly placed fender liner. I slice sections at a time as to not go too far by accident. It'll all make sense when you look at it lol.

Got it. I snapped some photos of multiple angles of all four wheel wells while the wheels are off and its up on the lift. Is there a quick and easy way to post photos in this thread? Also, my installer recommended some longer travel shocks for the rear, so I am getting a pair of Bilstein 5100s that are rated for 0-2” lift and should work well with the 1.5” spacer. Any potential concerns with running 5100s on rear and stock up front? I would consider doing 5100s up front, but then the (already istalled today) spacers would be moot since the front 5100s are adjustable up to 2.5”, right? I hate to have my guy turn around and take those two spacers back out he installed today. Or I guess I could install the front 5100s but keep them adjusted down to stock (0) level? Id sure appreciate anyone’s thoughts as this is a “live action” situation and decisions are having to be made sort of on the fly. Thanks!
 
Got it. I snapped some photos of multiple angles of all four wheel wells while the wheels are off and its up on the lift. Is there a quick and easy way to post photos in this thread? Also, my installer recommended some longer travel shocks for the rear, so I am getting a pair of Bilstein 5100s that are rated for 0-2” lift and should work well with the 1.5” spacer. Any potential concerns with running 5100s on rear and stock up front? I would consider doing 5100s up front, but then the (already istalled today) spacers would be moot since the front 5100s are adjustable up to 2.5”, right? I hate to have my guy turn around and take those two spacers back out he installed today. Or I guess I could install the front 5100s but keep them adjusted down to stock (0) level? Id sure appreciate anyone’s thoughts as this is a “live action” situation and decisions are having to be made sort of on the fly. Thanks!

You can mix and match all day. The longer rear shocks may not be required with only 1.5" but they certainly won't hurt to have. IMO, spacers are not the best but I have run them. The top had spacer is one thing but a 2.5" spacer up front is a different animal. If you have the money, upgrade the front shocks. You'll get better ride quality, better handling, and just a much higher quality and more durable lift. At 2.5" you should really look at replacement upper control arms up front also. I'm at 3" on stock arms and it's not good lol. Only got 1* caster where you really want to be around 4* Pulls all over the place on a crowned road which is mostly due to the poor caster. I will upgrade, just not sure what I want to run. I know I will NEVER run a uniball arm though, stick with a ball joint arm. Plenty of high quality options out there and some of them actually offer a greater range of motion than uniball arms do.


As for the bumper trim, i'll try and get some pictures of mine tomorrow and post them up tomorrow night.
 

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Hopefully, these photos made it. The last two are where I believe you are saying to unbolt and move the fender liner forward. Correct? Also, from what I can tell, I do not have either KDSS or XREAS on this vehicle - can anyone confirm from these photos? I have pics from diff angles if needed. Thanks alot.
 

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Hopefully, these photos made it. The last two are where I believe you are saying to unbolt and move the fender liner forward. Correct? Also, from what I can tell, I do not have either KDSS or XREAS on this vehicle - can anyone confirm from these photos? I have pics from diff angles if needed. Thanks alot.

Nope just standard suspension which is just fine. Yes, those last 2 pictures are exactly what I'm talking about. Take out those 2 bolts, push the black liner and far forward as possible, then trim! Excuse my art, don't be jealous! Cut as much out of that area as possible AFTER the liner is moved forward to expose as much as possible.
 

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You can mix and match all day. The longer rear shocks may not be required with only 1.5" but they certainly won't hurt to have. IMO, spacers are not the best but I have run them. The top had spacer is one thing but a 2.5" spacer up front is a different animal. If you have the money, upgrade the front shocks. You'll get better ride quality, better handling, and just a much higher quality and more durable lift. At 2.5" you should really look at replacement upper control arms up front also. I'm at 3" on stock arms and it's not good lol. Only got 1* caster where you really want to be around 4* Pulls all over the place on a crowned road which is mostly due to the poor caster. I will upgrade, just not sure what I want to run. I know I will NEVER run a uniball arm though, stick with a ball joint arm. Plenty of high quality options out there and some of them actually offer a greater range of motion than uniball arms do.


As for the bumper trim, i'll try and get some pictures of mine tomorrow and post them up tomorrow night.

Thanks a million. Would you upgrade to the front adjustable 5100s and just keep them at stock (0) level until the day I pull off the front spacers? Also, what UCAs can you recommend? Im up for doing them while the truck is apart now, but may be limited to amazon unless I can find a pair locally here in DFW area. Thanks again - tons of great advice here. Will post pics daily of my progress.
 
Nope just standard suspension which is just fine. Yes, those last 2 pictures are exactly what I'm talking about. Take out those 2 bolts, push the black liner and far forward as possible, then trim! Excuse my art, don't be jealous! Cut as much out of that area as possible AFTER the liner is moved forward to expose as much as possible.

Got it - thanks!
 
Got it - thanks!

Dobinson, JBA, ICON Delta joint, Dirt King, Camburg, all make ball joint arms at all different prices.

You can run the 5100 shock set at I believe .85 with the stock coils and get 2.5" of lift and you would do that without the spacers up front. You can also go with the ToyTec assembled set which is adjustable with a spanner wrench so you can fine tune to what you want without removing or disassembling them. Spacers in the rear are no issue at all. That's what I put on mine. There are better, there are worse, i'm happy with them overall.
 
Dobinson, JBA, ICON Delta joint, Dirt King, Camburg, all make ball joint arms at all different prices.

You can run the 5100 shock set at I believe .85 with the stock coils and get 2.5" of lift and you would do that without the spacers up front. You can also go with the ToyTec assembled set which is adjustable with a spanner wrench so you can fine tune to what you want without removing or disassembling them. Spacers in the rear are no issue at all. That's what I put on mine. There are better, there are worse, i'm happy with them overall.

Gotcha and thanks again. On the UCAs, Im happy to follow advice to upgrade, but I should probably mention that I am not a rock crawler or planning any trips to Moab. I am a city driver who spends alot of my weekends at our property located in a rocky/hilly/sometimes muddy part of Texas - so looking for a nice aggressive look that will also function in the offroad situations I find myself in every other weekend. Thanks to all!
 
Daily update: Daystar Kit Installed

Gotcha and thanks again. On the UCAs, Im happy to follow advice to upgrade, but I should probably mention that I am not a rock crawler or planning any trips to Moab. I am a city driver who spends alot of my weekends at our property located in a rocky/hilly/sometimes muddy part of Texas - so looking for a nice aggressive look that will also function in the offroad situations I find myself in every other weekend. Thanks to all!

Photos from this morning. Daystar kit has been installed. The 265 Hankook ATMs are still on the truck, but the 285 Nitto RGs are due for delivery later today. You can see that both front and rear mudflaps are removed. Rears will be trimmed per advice above and re-installed. From the photos with the 265s still on the truck, it appears to have plenty of clearance for the 285s. Also, 5100s going on the rear and still hoping for someone to answer my above question on the UCAs from Amazon. More pics to come soon..
 

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One more photo..

Again, these are the 265s, but I am hoping for a wider stance with the 285 RGs - without the need for spacers, but we shall see...
 

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DO NOT buy the cheap junk uniball control arms from Amazon or Ebay. Search around for the failure rate on them and what happens when they fail and they will. Replacement arms are not just for guys that wheel, they make a huge difference on road also. An incorrect alignment is no fun on the road, trust me, I know. at 3" and 1* of caster, it sucks, Going back to 4* makes a huge difference in ride quality and handling.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/227005-ebay-uniball-ucas-warning-w-pics.html
 

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