No A/C

[AntleredRuin]

Ok, so I know I'm slightly getting ahead of myself here, but I figured a few more opinions couldn't hurt before hand.

Simply put, my A/C stopped working on Thanksgiving. I know it's either the compressor or clutch, as the air still blows great, and can heat great, but it's just not cold. I have a 99 with the 3.4.

I've had a very slight knock coming from the front end of my truck for the past 20k that I narrowed down to the A/C (removed the belt and the knock went away. Even replacing the belt did not fix it). Now the knock no longer happens; it's very smooth.

I'm assuming that the clutch just stop 'grabbing' the compressor, and it's just free spinning with the belt now. I don't hear the clutch click on any more. I've not tested the pressure of the system, but based on the symptoms, I don't think it's that. It was also very immediate. Bam, no AC.
I found a thread on how to test the clutch, which I'll do soon.

I guess my biggest question is this:
How often do 3rd Gen 4Runners A/C Clutches/compressors go out?

I see new aftermarket clutches only online for $60+, when my local junkyard will sell me an OEM compressor AND clutch for around $50 with a 30 day warranty. I know if I replace the compressor, I'll have to recover/flush/recharge the system, etc.
I just don't want to spend $60+ on a clutch only to find that the compressor has an issue as well. I saw someone mention that the bad clutch wore down on the compressor so he had to replace that as well.

Would a used system be worth it? I'll try to aim for 96-98 so I can see the analog odometer and get an idea of the life of the system. That is, if a 96-98 system is compatible with a 99.

 

[TheDurk]

It's really easy to tell if a clutch is not engaging. The hard part is knowing why it won't engage.

The front of the pulley remains stationary when the clutch is out. When in, it turns.

You need to check if the clutch is receiving 12V+ before you condemn it. The system will not power the clutch if refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. You can jump in the 12V+ to be absolutely sure. Just don't run it for more than a few seconds with no refrigerant.

With any A/C system, the first thing is to slap a set of gauges on it to see if you have a system leak. Far more common than a clutch failure. And they can happen all at once.

Clutches do fail (I have a dead one on my '97 right now), compressors also fail. There is no substitute for good diagnosis with A/C. Any diagnosis needs gauges. Get a set. They pay for themselves.

 

[amalik]

roll window down? it's freezing.

 

[AntleredRuin]

It's really easy to tell if a clutch is not engaging. The hard part is knowing why it won't engage.

The front of the pulley remains stationary when the clutch is out. When in, it turns.

You need to check if the clutch is receiving 12V+ before you condemn it. The system will not power the clutch if refrigerant pressure is too low or too high. You can jump in the 12V+ to be absolutely sure. Just don't run it for more than a few seconds with no refrigerant.

With any A/C system, the first thing is to slap a set of gauges on it to see if you have a system leak. Far more common than a clutch failure. And they can happen all at once.

Clutches do fail (I have a dead one on my '97 right now), compressors also fail. There is no substitute for good diagnosis with A/C. Any diagnosis needs gauges. Get a set. They pay for themselves.

I'm assuming the gauges on one of those R134 refill cans aren't good enough? (otherwise pro gauges wouldn't cost $50+) I have an old can from my wife's Rav4 that still has a bit left.
I did not know that the clutch could disengage from lack of pressure.
I'll jump the clutch to at least see if that works.
I know there is still a problem at least, due to the knocking (or now, the lack of).

roll window down? it's freezing.

I wish. I'm in Houston. It's 82 with 60% humidity right now. Could be worse, but definitely not cold.

 

[JohnMc]

The gauge on a refill kit will only tell you half of the story - what the 'low side' pressure is doing. Which can still be informative.

Gather some info with that gauge:
- pressure after it has been sitting for a long while
- pressure after the A/C is first engaged
- pressure after the A/C has run for a bit
- pressure after it has been shut off again for a few minutes

If the low side pressure is too low, the A/C won't run.
- if the pressure is low after it has been sitting for a long time, then the R134a is too low, and if you suddenly lost A/C it probably has a good leak somewhere
- if the pressure is good after sitting, double check that the low pressure switch is 'on'
If the high side pressure is too high, the A/C won't run.
- you can't directly check that with just the low side 'refill' gauge, but if the compressor kicks on, and the low side pressure goes from normal to too low, and stays that way, then the compressor has pumped almost all of the R134 to the high side, and it's not coming back - which means a stuck expansion valve or a clogged filter. The expansion valve on my wife's 96 4Runner failed once, fairly suddenly, over the course of an hour long drive it went from sort of cool to not cool at all.
- not likely that the resting pressure is too high to run the system, the high side kick off psi is really high. But double check that that switch has continuity too

 

[AntleredRuin]

Ok guys well thank you for all your help, but....This was on me.
I'm an idiot. Or, rather, I have a faulty Auto Climate Control panel and an apparent lack of understanding concerning it.

As many other people have experienced, my Auto Climate Control is finicky. Sometimes the buttons don't work at all, and other times they do. Mine actually worked great since I bought it, up till about 2 weeks ago when it pretty quickly starting crapping.

There is a button called A/C on the far right that apparently must be pressed for A/C to work. I can have the fan speed on super high and the temp on super cold, but if that button is not pressed, no cold air. Stupid and redundant? I think so.
I know I went on a button pushing craze Wednesday night out of irritation at the panel not responding, and I must have hit the A/C button and turned it off. Luck of the draw, it turned back on again today and now my cold air is back.

So now I'm going to touch up the solder points on the board and see if I can fix the damn thing.

 

[bararonson]

My '99 climate control is wacky, too! Google it online and a guy fixes them in 24 hrs for $60. It's quite common with these.

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[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

My '99 climate control is wacky, too! Google it online and a guy fixes them in 24 hrs for $60. It's quite common with these.

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$60 ?? Me thinks you'll find it cheaper if you look. Unless you want LEDs. Ask me how I know :wink2:

 

[bararonson]

Yes, this includes leds, but I'm into OEM green. You....know something I dont?

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[Toyotayoda]

Ok guys well thank you for all your help, but....This was on me.
I'm an idiot. Or, rather, I have a faulty Auto Climate Control panel and an apparent lack of understanding concerning it.

As many other people have experienced, my Auto Climate Control is finicky. Sometimes the buttons don't work at all, and other times they do. Mine actually worked great since I bought it, up till about 2 weeks ago when it pretty quickly starting crapping.

There is a button called A/C on the far right that apparently must be pressed for A/C to work. I can have the fan speed on super high and the temp on super cold, but if that button is not pressed, no cold air. Stupid and redundant? I think so.
I know I went on a button pushing craze Wednesday night out of irritation at the panel not responding, and I must have hit the A/C button and turned it off. Luck of the draw, it turned back on again today and now my cold air is back.

So now I'm going to touch up the solder points on the board and see if I can fix the damn thing.

was going to say I would have no hesitation buying a whole used compressor for a 3rd gen, I've seen very few actually fail. Those controllers going bad is definitely a common problem across the manufactures, those cold solder joints aint worth a darn.

 

[TheDurk]

was going to say I would have no hesitation buying a whole used compressor for a 3rd gen, I've seen very few actually fail. Those controllers going bad is definitely a common problem across the manufactures, those cold solder joints aint worth a darn.

I remember when the dealer explained that if I bought the 5-speed, I could not get the automatic digital control. I said: "You just made my day."

I still have the last microwave oven with an analog control and no stinkin' clock. I will always buy a washer or dryer with knobs instead of membrane switches and digital readouts. They just die faster than the machines they are part of.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Yes, this includes leds, but I'm into OEM green. You....know something I dont?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

That's my listing for $59. I do the OEM green too.

 

[bararonson]

Hahaha, JRZEE. l'm getting my wife to send you the PayPal amount to get this done. My symptoms are as you describe in your ad. I would like a heads up on getting trim off. It's a '99 Ltd. What about the clock? I got some output when I first got it, but nothing now.

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[fourfive]

I remember when the dealer explained that if I bought the 5-speed, I could not get the automatic digital control. I said: "You just made my day."

I still have the last microwave oven with an analog control and no stinkin' clock. I will always buy a washer or dryer with knobs instead of membrane switches and digital readouts. They just die faster than the machines they are part of.

You just summarized my thoughts exactly.

 

[fourfive]

I wish. I'm in Houston. It's 82 with 60% humidity right now. Could be worse, but definitely not cold.

I'm with you. I use my ac year round. Obviously more in the summer because the Georgia heat will make even the most mellow guy go crazy & start breaking shi* & the rest of the year I'll use it as needed to defrost my windows. If I have an ac breakdown, I'd much rather have it happen in the fall or winter since it won't be used as much and it'll give me more time to fix it correctly.

*Kind of off topic but I've had formula one ceramic heat reducing tint in my last car and current 4runner & I noticed I don't blast the ac as high in the summer...I also have my front windshield tinted with the lightest ceramic tint film formula one offers (don't remember the %) & that makes a noticeable difference too. I'm pretty sure it's illegal in many states including Georgia (I think) but it's light enough that nobody has been able to notice it's even there. Once the tint settled after the first week of having it, I forget it's even there until tint conversations come up.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I don't know, I actually like the digital readout. I understand that they are 'weaker' than a basic knob setup, but they offer a lot more flexibility with the actual temp vs just 'high, medium, low' and just look cool.
Also, soldering isn't hard to do, so if that fixes the issue, then neat.

Edit: I guess the Temp Knobs have more flexibility that 'Low, medium' High', but you still can't tell what temp it is. Is low 35f? Is it 40f? Is high 105f? Any variant in between?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I don't know, I actually like the digital readout. I understand that they are 'weaker' than a basic knob setup, but they offer a lot more flexibility with the actual temp vs just 'high, medium, low' and just look cool.
Also, soldering isn't hard to do, so if that fixes the issue, then neat.

Edit: I guess the Temp Knobs have more flexibility that 'Low, medium' High', but you still can't tell what temp it is. Is low 35f? Is it 40f? Is high 105f? Any variant in between?

Plus, they don't have the AUTO control which adjusts the blend doors and fan speed to acquire the set cabin temperature.

The issue isn't cold solder joints only. A lot more than that. Also, soldering and desoldering SMD as well as through-hole components can be very tedious.

 

[TheDurk]

I don't know, I actually like the digital readout. I understand that they are 'weaker' than a basic knob setup, but they offer a lot more flexibility with the actual temp vs just 'high, medium, low' and just look cool.
Also, soldering isn't hard to do, so if that fixes the issue, then neat.

Edit: I guess the Temp Knobs have more flexibility that 'Low, medium' High', but you still can't tell what temp it is. Is low 35f? Is it 40f? Is high 105f? Any variant in between?

What, you need to look at a thermometer to know if you are hot or cold? The manual is infinitely variable--as opposed to one-degree steps--and does what you tell it to. Blast it full hot (or cold) when you get in and then turn it down when you are comfortable. That's almost never at the same temperature. It depends on what you are wearing and how cold (or hot) the glass is, and how cold or hot you were when you got in the car. Autos are never as good at full blast as a manual. It's always wimpy. I hate my GF's Audi with the Auto. It has a mind of its own.