infamousRNR
Senior Member
pics
pictures! we need pictures bro!
... sorry, jumped the gun
pictures! we need pictures bro!
... sorry, jumped the gun
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Nor_cal51501's build thread
- Thread starter nor_cal51501
- Start date
nor_cal51501
New member
Haha [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION], you beat me with the response before I could upload them. You know how it is with iPhone, can only load one via Safari. So I only use TapTalk to "edit" in pictures after I create my post. It's coming along, but takes FOREVER to get the old paint off. Tried my angle grinder with a wire wheel, wire brush, sanding discs and it's slow going. Got as far as the mounting brackets and said to myself, "that damn face bar can wait for another day". Side note, this is my first time using the coveted Hammered paint and I gotta say...it the best stuff I've ever used. 110% recomend people use it.
nor_cal51501
New member
I got tired of all the grinding and wire wheeling so I figured I'd try something new. Welcome Tuff-Strip aerosol paint stripper to my process.
More to follow...
It got dark quick, but here's a pic of it 99% stripped down
More to follow...
It got dark quick, but here's a pic of it 99% stripped down
nor_cal51501
New member
Haven't gotten there yet, but I will definitely be posting and letting you know. Only issue I forsee is the nuts welded inside the frame breaking loose or stripping. However I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's is a smooth process.
having fun
New member
Dayum, just read your build here. Great job, reminds me when I was young, hold on something else I can
do on it.
It does pay off to do the other stuff while your in there, if not,you'll kick yourself for not doing it.
Great job there.
do on it.
It does pay off to do the other stuff while your in there, if not,you'll kick yourself for not doing it.
Great job there.
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nor_cal51501
New member
Hey Ben, I finished doing my flip last weekend and thought id let you know how it went. All went back together really easily. The hardest part was grinding through the bumper and the bracket behind the bumper. The bracket behind the bumper is a BEAST to get through. But, all in all it wasn't too bad. Bolting up was a sinche after cleaning up the threads and bolts with a wire brush and some WD-40.
Attachments
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Brazilian_Serra
New member
Nor_cal51501
Are you using longfield birfield from Trail Gear? This fits perfect on 3rd gen or need some adaptation? Do you know how can I use this on mine?
Thanks!
Are you using longfield birfield from Trail Gear? This fits perfect on 3rd gen or need some adaptation? Do you know how can I use this on mine?
Thanks!
nor_cal51501
New member
I haven't done any axel work on mine. Im essentially all stock running gear, just swapped my factory non-locked 4:10's for 4:30's with a rear e-locker. However from what i looked up directly from their website, the Birfields only work for 1st or 2nd Gen runners. They do not make them for 3rd gen at all as far as I can tell. However I have little to no experience with them so I would suggest talking with someone who has a bit more knowledge on this. Sorry I couldn't be more help bud.
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nor_cal51501
New member
Toytec 1" Body Lift
First let me say, if this is redundant let me know and I'll remove it. The only writeup i could find was the 4crawler one and it seemed outdated with pictures that were still difficult for me to use. Anyways, heres my attempt on a How-To. Let me know what you all think guys. Its also on my thread, but figured it might get a bit more exposure here.
So I haven't seen anyone really do a good step by step on the body lifts so I thought I would give it a go at a simple write up. Let me preface this by saying the lift was very easy. The only part that was mind numbingly anger inducing was that Toytec doesn't tell you which length bolts you use to replace your factory ones with and they supply more bolts than needed. It would of made the process much faster and simpler if they simply added that info, and for the likes of me I can't fathom why they don't have that in the instructions. Some moron didn't do their job it seems. Anyway, rant over. Any input would be great and i'll amend the write-up if needed.
Starting Point:
Finished Product:
Tools Needed to complete the lift:
Jack with enough lift to reach the body and extend at least 2" higher or jack plus wood blocks.
Philips screw driver
27mm socket
17mm socket
14mm deep socket
13mm socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket
12mm socket
12mm box wrench
Step 1: Remove the front bumper
*Before unbolting the front bumper make sure to disconnect the turn signals and fog lights(if equipped).*
Drivers side
Passenger side
In order to remove the front bumper there are 4 bolts and 1 nut on each side of the vehicle; 4 bolts on each frame plate and 1 nut on each side in the inner wheel well mounting the bumper to the fender. The 8 bolts attaching the bumper to the frame are 14mm and the nuts attaching the bumper to the fender are 12mm.
Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Drivers Side
Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Passenger Side
The drivers side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)
The passenger side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)
Once you have all the bolts/nuts removed and the electrical disconnected you should be able to giggle the bumper a bit and pull it from the fender mounts. You now have access to both front body mounts and should look similar to this.
Front bumper removed - circled the body mount bolts
Step 2 - Interior panel removal
I started on the drivers side and worked my way around to the passenger side. First step is to remove the drivers side door sill plate. Remove the 4 screws then pull the plate up.
Drivers side door sill plate
Next grab the kick panel by your foot and pull back on it towards the seat and it will pop right off. Then pull back the carpet and you can see your first interior body mount cover.
First body mount cover - Drivers seat
Cover removed
Next, move to drivers sider passenger door and remove the door sill plate there as well, it's 2 screws.
Drivers side passenger sill plate
Next remove the drivers side interior B pillar panel. Its the panel that is in-between the drivers front and rear door. It has a few light duty clips and will just pull right off the body and lift out of place.
B pillar removed
Next slide the drivers seat as far forward as it can go, then pull up the rear carpet near the seat belt bolt on the floor and you will see the next body bolt cover.
Drivers seat rear body bolt
Next fold down your rear seat and remove the interior panel behind the passenger door next to the passenger backrest. It has a few light duty clips and should pull away and off the body fairly easy. Make sure all the clips came off with it or pull them out and put them back on the panel you removed.
Drivers side passenger backrest panel
Partially fold the backrest back up and pull the carpet back underneath the seat and you will see the next body bolt near the door sill.
Drivers side passenger body bolt #2
Move to the rear cargo area now and begin disassembly there by unscrewing the 5 screw on the sill plate and removing the plate.
Rear hatch sill plate - 5 screws
Next remove the rear cargo cover catch sleeves(no idea what they are really called). Remove the single philips screw and slide the plate out.
Drivers and passenger catch sleeves
First let me say, if this is redundant let me know and I'll remove it. The only writeup i could find was the 4crawler one and it seemed outdated with pictures that were still difficult for me to use. Anyways, heres my attempt on a How-To. Let me know what you all think guys. Its also on my thread, but figured it might get a bit more exposure here.
So I haven't seen anyone really do a good step by step on the body lifts so I thought I would give it a go at a simple write up. Let me preface this by saying the lift was very easy. The only part that was mind numbingly anger inducing was that Toytec doesn't tell you which length bolts you use to replace your factory ones with and they supply more bolts than needed. It would of made the process much faster and simpler if they simply added that info, and for the likes of me I can't fathom why they don't have that in the instructions. Some moron didn't do their job it seems. Anyway, rant over. Any input would be great and i'll amend the write-up if needed.
Starting Point:
Finished Product:
Tools Needed to complete the lift:
Jack with enough lift to reach the body and extend at least 2" higher or jack plus wood blocks.
Philips screw driver
27mm socket
17mm socket
14mm deep socket
13mm socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket
12mm socket
12mm box wrench
Step 1: Remove the front bumper
*Before unbolting the front bumper make sure to disconnect the turn signals and fog lights(if equipped).*
Drivers side
Passenger side
In order to remove the front bumper there are 4 bolts and 1 nut on each side of the vehicle; 4 bolts on each frame plate and 1 nut on each side in the inner wheel well mounting the bumper to the fender. The 8 bolts attaching the bumper to the frame are 14mm and the nuts attaching the bumper to the fender are 12mm.
Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Drivers Side
Inner wheel well opening to remove nut attaching bumper to fender - Passenger Side
The drivers side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)
The passenger side frame plate(looking from the front of vehicle)
Once you have all the bolts/nuts removed and the electrical disconnected you should be able to giggle the bumper a bit and pull it from the fender mounts. You now have access to both front body mounts and should look similar to this.
Front bumper removed - circled the body mount bolts
Step 2 - Interior panel removal
I started on the drivers side and worked my way around to the passenger side. First step is to remove the drivers side door sill plate. Remove the 4 screws then pull the plate up.
Drivers side door sill plate
Next grab the kick panel by your foot and pull back on it towards the seat and it will pop right off. Then pull back the carpet and you can see your first interior body mount cover.
First body mount cover - Drivers seat
Cover removed
Next, move to drivers sider passenger door and remove the door sill plate there as well, it's 2 screws.
Drivers side passenger sill plate
Next remove the drivers side interior B pillar panel. Its the panel that is in-between the drivers front and rear door. It has a few light duty clips and will just pull right off the body and lift out of place.
B pillar removed
Next slide the drivers seat as far forward as it can go, then pull up the rear carpet near the seat belt bolt on the floor and you will see the next body bolt cover.
Drivers seat rear body bolt
Next fold down your rear seat and remove the interior panel behind the passenger door next to the passenger backrest. It has a few light duty clips and should pull away and off the body fairly easy. Make sure all the clips came off with it or pull them out and put them back on the panel you removed.
Drivers side passenger backrest panel
Partially fold the backrest back up and pull the carpet back underneath the seat and you will see the next body bolt near the door sill.
Drivers side passenger body bolt #2
Move to the rear cargo area now and begin disassembly there by unscrewing the 5 screw on the sill plate and removing the plate.
Rear hatch sill plate - 5 screws
Next remove the rear cargo cover catch sleeves(no idea what they are really called). Remove the single philips screw and slide the plate out.
Drivers and passenger catch sleeves
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nor_cal51501
New member
Toytec 1" Body Lift Cont.
Removed
Now you should be able to gently pull the panels back far enough to access the rear body mounts on the floor of the cargo area.
Drivers side/Passenger side
Next move to the passenger side, and remove the door sill plates, panels, and carpet in the same order as the drivers side.
Passenger side interior disassembly
Step 3 - Steering rag joint disconnecting
If you crawl under the drivers side door and look up next to the front diff you will see the steering rag joint. You need to disconnect the two bolts that hold the steering shaft plates together. You will need two 12mm box wrenches or a combination of 12mm box wrench and socket to remove the rag joint bolts. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**
Steering rag joint bolts
Removed
Now you should be able to gently pull the panels back far enough to access the rear body mounts on the floor of the cargo area.
Drivers side/Passenger side
Next move to the passenger side, and remove the door sill plates, panels, and carpet in the same order as the drivers side.
Passenger side interior disassembly
Step 3 - Steering rag joint disconnecting
If you crawl under the drivers side door and look up next to the front diff you will see the steering rag joint. You need to disconnect the two bolts that hold the steering shaft plates together. You will need two 12mm box wrenches or a combination of 12mm box wrench and socket to remove the rag joint bolts. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**
Steering rag joint bolts
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nor_cal51501
New member
Toytec 1" Body Lift Cont. 2
For the time being you need to leave the rag joint disconnected so there is no stress on it while jacking the body up off the frame. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**
Step 4 - Installing spacers and new body bolts
This step is where I didn't really take as many pictures because the sun was going down, the instructions SUCKED, and I wanted to finish. I started with the drivers side front and worked my way to the back. All the body mount bolts are 17mm inside the car and 14mm outside the car with the exception being the front mount bolts. They are 14mm on the top and bottom. *Only take one side of the vehicle apart at a time! Make sure to remove all the body bolts for one side before attempting to jack the body up. *Make sure to not mix up the bolts and their locations or their assembly order.* I took one body mount off at a time and reassembled it off the car. Until I was ready to reinstall that particular one I left it directly beneath the mount location it belongs with. Once the 5 body mounts for the drivers side are removed, switch out the hardware to the new bolts of correct length.
-The front body mounts use the longest bolts supplied.
-The drivers and passenger kick panel bolts get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
-The body bolts behind the drivers/passenger seat and underneath the rear seat both get replaced with the middle length bolts supplied.
-The rear body mounts in the cargo area get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
I used a 27mm socket and a sand filled rubber mallet to remove the built on washers from the original bolts. I put the socket over the head of the bolt and gave it a few good smacks and the washer came right off each bolt.
Washer removal
After switching out the washers and hardware jack up the body in the middle of the side of the vehicle so it goes up evenly front to rear about an inch or slightly more to allow the pucks to be inserted in between the body mounts and the body. One at a time insert a puck and reassemble its body bolt and hand tighten them. *Important: There are two spacer pucks that are smaller in diameter, they are the front body mounts and shouldn't be confused and used elsewhere. After all 5 of the drivers side mounts have been switched and hand tightened lower the body back down.
Drivers side done
Repeat the same exact procedure for the passenger side.
-The new body bolts and nuts are 14mm for both the bolt and the nylon lock nut.
Once both sides are completed you can go around the vehicle and snug up all the nuts and bolts for the body mounts. Then reinstall the interior panels in reverse order.
Driver front body mount - Top
Bottom
Drivers kick panel mount
Mount behind drivers seat
Mount next to rear passenger seat - drivers side
Rear drivers side mount
Rear passenger mount
Mount next to rear passenger seat - passenger side
Mount behind passenger seat
Passenger kick panel mount
Both front mounts
Step 5A - Reinstall the bumper
Bumper installs in reverse order, but make sure to align the fender bolts on the bumper to go into the fender mounts. They need to be angled up a bit in order to make it to the raised body. *The body is now 1" higher than the front bumper, so the bumper will be angled slightly downward now. The bumper bolts to the frame should be torqued with a torque wrench to 32ft-lbs. The fender bolts can be hand tightened to snug fit.
*If you want to avoid the nose dive and gapped bumper skip to step 5B*
Gapped bumper with downward angle
For the time being you need to leave the rag joint disconnected so there is no stress on it while jacking the body up off the frame. **IMPORTANT: DO NOT ROTATE OR MOVE YOUR WHEEL ONCE YOU DISCONNECT THE RAG JOINT OR IT WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REPOSITION AND CONNECT!**
Step 4 - Installing spacers and new body bolts
This step is where I didn't really take as many pictures because the sun was going down, the instructions SUCKED, and I wanted to finish. I started with the drivers side front and worked my way to the back. All the body mount bolts are 17mm inside the car and 14mm outside the car with the exception being the front mount bolts. They are 14mm on the top and bottom. *Only take one side of the vehicle apart at a time! Make sure to remove all the body bolts for one side before attempting to jack the body up. *Make sure to not mix up the bolts and their locations or their assembly order.* I took one body mount off at a time and reassembled it off the car. Until I was ready to reinstall that particular one I left it directly beneath the mount location it belongs with. Once the 5 body mounts for the drivers side are removed, switch out the hardware to the new bolts of correct length.
-The front body mounts use the longest bolts supplied.
-The drivers and passenger kick panel bolts get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
-The body bolts behind the drivers/passenger seat and underneath the rear seat both get replaced with the middle length bolts supplied.
-The rear body mounts in the cargo area get replaced with the shortest bolts supplied.
I used a 27mm socket and a sand filled rubber mallet to remove the built on washers from the original bolts. I put the socket over the head of the bolt and gave it a few good smacks and the washer came right off each bolt.
Washer removal
After switching out the washers and hardware jack up the body in the middle of the side of the vehicle so it goes up evenly front to rear about an inch or slightly more to allow the pucks to be inserted in between the body mounts and the body. One at a time insert a puck and reassemble its body bolt and hand tighten them. *Important: There are two spacer pucks that are smaller in diameter, they are the front body mounts and shouldn't be confused and used elsewhere. After all 5 of the drivers side mounts have been switched and hand tightened lower the body back down.
Drivers side done
Repeat the same exact procedure for the passenger side.
-The new body bolts and nuts are 14mm for both the bolt and the nylon lock nut.
Once both sides are completed you can go around the vehicle and snug up all the nuts and bolts for the body mounts. Then reinstall the interior panels in reverse order.
Driver front body mount - Top
Bottom
Drivers kick panel mount
Mount behind drivers seat
Mount next to rear passenger seat - drivers side
Rear drivers side mount
Rear passenger mount
Mount next to rear passenger seat - passenger side
Mount behind passenger seat
Passenger kick panel mount
Both front mounts
Step 5A - Reinstall the bumper
Bumper installs in reverse order, but make sure to align the fender bolts on the bumper to go into the fender mounts. They need to be angled up a bit in order to make it to the raised body. *The body is now 1" higher than the front bumper, so the bumper will be angled slightly downward now. The bumper bolts to the frame should be torqued with a torque wrench to 32ft-lbs. The fender bolts can be hand tightened to snug fit.
*If you want to avoid the nose dive and gapped bumper skip to step 5B*
Gapped bumper with downward angle
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nor_cal51501
New member
Toytec 1" Body Lift Cont. 3
Step 5B(optional) - Bumper bracket mod for 1" Body lift
If you would like to eliminate your front bumper gap and bumper nose dive with a 1" body lift, its pretty easy.
Required extra tools/Hardware:
Hammer
Power Drill
5/16 metal drill bit
(2)M8-1.25 x 35 Hex Cap Screws
(2)M8-1.25 Nylon Lock Nuts
14mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket
Here is everything required for this mod.
This mod is very simple. All you do is drill one hole in the bumper bracket on each side and use a pre-existing hole in the bumper itself for the extra bolt.
Drivers side bumper bracket
Passenger side bracket
All you do is remove the brackets by removing these two nuts and the single bolt.
Once you do this, I placed the replacement bolt into the center hole in the bumper and made a mark on the bracket itself for the new lower bolt hole that I needed to drill. Circled is the new hole in the bumper you will be using as the Top bolt hole in the bracket. It is directly between the top and bottom bolt on the bumper mount and is predrilled from the factory.
Then drill the hole in the bracket(s) using the 5/16 drill bit.
Next you need to take the hammer and tap the factory Top bolt out of the way a tiny bit and you will be able to bolt the brackets back on with ease and BOOM, your bumper is now 1" higher to match your body lift. *The new M8 bolts and nuts are 13mm instead of the 12mm original nut. You will use one of the new M8-1.25 x 35 bolt and M8-1.25 nut combination per side and one of the original bolts and 12mm nut per side.
Finished product will look like this - Drivers side
Finished product will look like this - Passenger side
Differences in bumper spacing
Before bracket mod
After bracket mod - factory fit again
Step 6 - Installing the rag joint spacer and new hardware
Align the new spacer so the holes drilled completely through the spacer align with the bolt holes for the existing mount locations and the half drilled holed go over the extruding bolts.
Rag joint spacer in place
Rag joint bolted back into place
I wasn't clear why from the factory the bolt for the rag joint is positioned from the bottom up, but I figured that its lasted 200k on my car without issue, so I reinstalled the new bolts in the same direction. The new rag joint bolts and nuts are 13mm. Once those are snugged up you are done!!! Now is the time to pull it into the sun and take MANY MANY pictures and post up on curbs and become fascinated at your MASSIVE lift!!
:clap2:
:banana:
arty::first:
Finished pics
Step 5B(optional) - Bumper bracket mod for 1" Body lift
If you would like to eliminate your front bumper gap and bumper nose dive with a 1" body lift, its pretty easy.
Required extra tools/Hardware:
Hammer
Power Drill
5/16 metal drill bit
(2)M8-1.25 x 35 Hex Cap Screws
(2)M8-1.25 Nylon Lock Nuts
14mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
13mm box wrench
12mm deep socket
Here is everything required for this mod.
This mod is very simple. All you do is drill one hole in the bumper bracket on each side and use a pre-existing hole in the bumper itself for the extra bolt.
Drivers side bumper bracket
Passenger side bracket
All you do is remove the brackets by removing these two nuts and the single bolt.
Once you do this, I placed the replacement bolt into the center hole in the bumper and made a mark on the bracket itself for the new lower bolt hole that I needed to drill. Circled is the new hole in the bumper you will be using as the Top bolt hole in the bracket. It is directly between the top and bottom bolt on the bumper mount and is predrilled from the factory.
Then drill the hole in the bracket(s) using the 5/16 drill bit.
Next you need to take the hammer and tap the factory Top bolt out of the way a tiny bit and you will be able to bolt the brackets back on with ease and BOOM, your bumper is now 1" higher to match your body lift. *The new M8 bolts and nuts are 13mm instead of the 12mm original nut. You will use one of the new M8-1.25 x 35 bolt and M8-1.25 nut combination per side and one of the original bolts and 12mm nut per side.
Finished product will look like this - Drivers side
Finished product will look like this - Passenger side
Differences in bumper spacing
Before bracket mod
After bracket mod - factory fit again
Step 6 - Installing the rag joint spacer and new hardware
Align the new spacer so the holes drilled completely through the spacer align with the bolt holes for the existing mount locations and the half drilled holed go over the extruding bolts.
Rag joint spacer in place
Rag joint bolted back into place
I wasn't clear why from the factory the bolt for the rag joint is positioned from the bottom up, but I figured that its lasted 200k on my car without issue, so I reinstalled the new bolts in the same direction. The new rag joint bolts and nuts are 13mm. Once those are snugged up you are done!!! Now is the time to pull it into the sun and take MANY MANY pictures and post up on curbs and become fascinated at your MASSIVE lift!!
:clap2:
:banana:arty::first:Finished pics
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having fun
New member
Reserves
:worthless
EDIT.... Never mind you added them as I posted.
:worthless
EDIT.... Never mind you added them as I posted.
nor_cal51501
New member
I knew SOMEONE was going to try and get in-between my reserves so I was quick on the 20 second post time limit and getting them in on top of each other. Then edited the content in. lol.
nor_cal51501
New member
infamousRNR
Senior Member
NOR_CAL51501 is a BOSS
Dude. Why are you so flossy..?
Sick write up. Bumper adjustment after body lift is clutch!
You sir, are a BOSS
Dude. Why are you so flossy..?
Sick write up. Bumper adjustment after body lift is clutch!
You sir, are a BOSS
infamousRNR
Senior Member
nor_cal51501
New member
Lift and Break update
Ok guys, it has been a while since I've updated my thread so here are the goodies. I bought [MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] 's 5100's from him with his toytec coils and a set of 8 wraps from another user from here. At the same time I finally decided to buy the tundra rotors for my TBU I worked on a while back. After my suspension settled I measured it as follows:
Drivers front - 23.25"
Drivers rear - 24.5"
Passenger front - 23.25"
Passenger rear - 25.25"
Here's all the pics and all that goodness
Out with the old:
In with the new:
Ok guys, it has been a while since I've updated my thread so here are the goodies. I bought [MENTION=53337]SCRunner12[/MENTION] 's 5100's from him with his toytec coils and a set of 8 wraps from another user from here. At the same time I finally decided to buy the tundra rotors for my TBU I worked on a while back. After my suspension settled I measured it as follows:
Drivers front - 23.25"
Drivers rear - 24.5"
Passenger front - 23.25"
Passenger rear - 25.25"
Here's all the pics and all that goodness
Out with the old:
In with the new:
