Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

I only had to remove the pump for the rear window sprayer, but I was able to keep the fluid reservoir and the front pump and I don't have any rubbing there anymore. I just plugged the hole for the rear pump with a wine cork.

I have the 315 Cooper STTs (they run 34.5" tall and 11.75" wide at 30 psi - as J-money$$$ mentioned earlier). I also have a 1" BL, stock 5 star wheels, and 1" wheel spacers. I do rub on the frame when fully turned, but it isn't that bad. There isn't much I can do about it anyways. I also rub the UCAs when it's fully drooped and turning, but it just wipes the dirt off, no big deal either. But... that's all after I cut my fenders back ~1" and pounded the firewall back about 1.5". That's my 315 MTR spare in this pic BTW. The old MTRs run the same size as my Cooper STTs. The new MTR Kevlars (like J-money$$$ and Dirtco have) are about .5" taller and .5" wider..
image-43.jpg~original

35firewall2.jpg~original


After trimming about 2" off the back of the inner lip on each rear fender, the only thing I rubbed in the rear was the gas filler tube cover (in the D/S wheel well). That is until it got torn off during the last wheelin trip. No rubbing anymore. I also extended my rear bump stops 1.5". I cut a 3" rubber mallet in 1/2 and used the 2 halves as spacers..
image-53.jpg~original


Here's some more pics...
image-49.jpg~original

odessa5.jpg~original

35s2-1.jpg~original

35S7.jpg~original


u gotta love stock rims man..i love the look. rock the stock rims over anythign anyday
 
Any of u guys having problems keeping cv joints together? I broke a few with my 34 inch micky thompsons..broke a few more with my 35 inch ssr's and broke even more when I went with 38" boggers! About 30 all together. Now I have RCV shafts and can play as hard as I want with no breaking!!!
 
About $1800...well worth it. U will not break them. I was breaking axles every time I went out. I would always carry 2 spare cv joints with me and usually beak them.
 
About $1800...well worth it. U will not break them. I was breaking axles every time I went out. I would always carry 2 spare cv joints with me and usually beak them.

By the time i cut off the ifs and sold the good parts I could afford to throw a d44 or d60 under my truck for $1800.

Plus didnt RCV quit making these. If they were $900 a pair I probably would have all ready bought a set. But so far wheeling every week on 35's I have managed to keep my cv breaking at a descent rate. You have to be real careful with the front locked
 
SAS on a 3rd gen is not cheap ; plus..ifs works pretty good..just can't lift it much. Already had 5.29 and locked frt and rear..I can do black and red trails at rausch creek all day long with no breakage.
 
I was looking for them recently because i was curious of how much they ran and I heard the tacoma ones the claimed were unbreakable were no longer available. I just checked again and couldnt find them. Who knows maybe Im not looking in the right place. They are a great idea. Its a major PITA fixing them all the time. Iv been there my self. Break one, then next weekend break another....

I know SAS is expensive on a taco. But doing it all yourself, running leafs, building your diffs can all cut the costs. And its like a gold mine when you start taking parts off. People want used coilovers, front diffs, rack, a arms, skids bla bla.

Hey I like ifs too. It does good IMO. I have really beat the heck of of mine and its hanging on. I gotta see this truck. Btw if you Pm me a link to a picture ill post if up for ya
 
$1800 for 2 front axles?!?! OR is that for rear axle shafts as well? That is crazy.

I'd really like to upgrade the front half shafts but... that is some $$.
 
I was looking for them recently because i was curious of how much they ran and I heard the tacoma ones the claimed were unbreakable were no longer available. I just checked again and couldnt find them. Who knows maybe Im not looking in the right place. They are a great idea. Its a major PITA fixing them all the time. Iv been there my self. Break one, then next weekend break another....

I know SAS is expensive on a taco. But doing it all yourself, running leafs, building your diffs can all cut the costs. And its like a gold mine when you start taking parts off. People want used coilovers, front diffs, rack, a arms, skids bla bla.

Hey I like ifs too. It does good IMO. I have really beat the heck of of mine and its hanging on. I gotta see this truck. Btw if you Pm me a link to a picture ill post if up for ya

I don't see them too. I read before many Toyota owners bashing RCV axles only just from the high prices, nothing else. Maybe RCV got tired of it and removed from the list.

Some time ago, I did some good reading to investigate about those axles. I only read some good things about RCV axles most of all in in FJ Cruisers. No breakage in hard wheeling and no diff break.

Are expensive yes, but, maybe worth making an effort and buy those if you gonna keep ifs and wheeling hard.

My humble opinion!
 
Got it all chopped now and the only place I rub now is the frame at full lock. Stupid frame! So here's a few before n afters.

Front
15609117_large.jpg

15609123_large.jpg

No where near touching, might have another inch of compression in this pic
15648159_large.jpg


Rear (the fun part)
The outer nobs were bending the pinch weld real bad.
15609112_large.jpg

I cut out about 1" then of course was left with a wide open seem at the inner fender and outer skin. Gobbed some sealant in there and riveted it all back together.
15631233_large.jpg

It's pretty close
15648164_large.jpg

15648169_large.jpg

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RCV didn't list these axles on their website but I called them and ordered them. I'll try and put some pics up.
 
The RCV axles bind and make an awful clicking sound in 4WD. Big PIA. They may claim that they are "un-breakable", but Jason at high country 4x4 is running them on his taco and he as broken one.

You'll find that with stronger cv's like the RCV's or others that they will just cause the next weak link to break (Front Diff). Not saying stronger cv's are bad, I'm running lotus axles, but unfortunately they were so strong they caused my diff to blow. Hoping that a stronger ARB in the front will help out with that.

From my experience I would say stay away from the RCV's.
 
The RCV axles bind and make an awful clicking sound in 4WD. Big PIA. They may claim that they are "un-breakable", but Jason at high country 4x4 is running them on his taco and he as broken one.

You'll find that with stronger cv's like the RCV's or others that they will just cause the next weak link to break (Front Diff). Not saying stronger cv's are bad, I'm running lotus axles, but unfortunately they were so strong they caused my diff to blow. Hoping that a stronger ARB in the front will help out with that.

From my experience I would say stay away from the RCV's.

Where can I find more info on using Lotus axles? I already have the ARB locker as a fraged my front diff before I broke an axle.

Ben
 
We definitely need to see pics of your truck, and a detailed list of mods too.

:boink:

1996 4runner-38.5x11.00 boggers. Shrockworks front bumper and warn xp9.5. Bilstein struts with tundra coils in the front. Arb in the front..Toyota e-locker out back.5.29 gears.All-pro upper control arms and rock sliders. Custom rear bumper. Custom crossmembers underneath-transfer case is not below frame and is skidplated. Auto tranny is skidplated. Longer coils and 2inch spaced in the rear with 12inch stroke shocks. 2inch body-lift. 165 amp alternator and dual optimal batteries. Oasis air compressor. Triangulated 4 link in rear soon and lexan rear quarter windows I'm installing now. When I go wheeling I put my tube doors on and the hatchback comes off. I'm sure there's more. Been building it for a couple years. RCV axle shafts for the front.
 
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Here is some pictures from his picture album.
 

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