Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

Subscribed. You all have a few years with your trucks on me. I'm just getting started. After looking through this thread, I may jump over 285's to 35's when I'm ready.

Thanks for sharing your pics. Love it!
 
Just remember that stepping up to 35's on a 3rd gen is a package deal..you'll destroy ur cv joints and spider gears unless u step up to stronger parts: Arb,quality gearset and "unbreakable" axles...I broke the splined part of the cv joints, the part with the c-clip that goes in ur differential three times. The only way to get it out is to drill thru the stub that's stuck in the diff,run a tap thru it,put a bolt in it and pull it out with a puller or a pickle-fork.not fun on the trail!!
 
Throwing this up for the guy that owns it now

51be5107.jpg~original
 
runner38 said:
Just remember that stepping up to 35's on a 3rd gen is a package deal..you'll destroy ur cv joints and spider gears unless u step up to stronger parts: Arb,quality gearset and "unbreakable" axles...I broke the splined part of the cv joints, the part with the c-clip that goes in ur differential three times. The only way to get it out is to drill thru the stub that's stuck in the diff,run a tap thru it,put a bolt in it and pull it out with a puller or a pickle-fork.not fun on the trail!!
Click to expand...

Yup exactly. The front diff is better off with a lockright than open once on 35's due to the spider gears being so weak. Or an arb if you can afford it. Nitro/yukon gears and good bearings. I put the solid pinion spacer in the back when i did the setup. Its a little more work but you can count on the pinion depth staying in spec after rock smashes on the yolk.

And 35's on a 3" lift is way doable. I doubt Im even at 3". I ran the 1" bl just to help clearances. Its was worth it IMO. But i wouldnt go over 1" with it. The 1" is nice because i was able to have the slider 1" higher. And the bumpers as well.

The best way to tell how high your suspension is is probably a frame height measurement from the ground to bottom of the frame. Im at 20" frame height exactly in the center of the truck on 35's when they are at 40 psi. Thats pretty low in the crawling world. I have heard of guys at 25" on 40's but thats about the absolute lowest you can go with descent up travel
 
J-money$$$ said:
Yup exactly. The front diff is better off with a lockright than open once on 35's due to the spider gears being so weak. Or an arb if you can afford it. Nitro/yukon gears and good bearings. I put the solid pinion spacer in the back when i did the setup. Its a little more work but you can count on the pinion depth staying in spec after rock smashes on the yolk.

And 35's on a 3" lift is way doable. I doubt Im even at 3". I ran the 1" bl just to help clearances. Its was worth it IMO. But i wouldnt go over 1" with it. The 1" is nice because i was able to have the slider 1" higher. And the bumpers as well.

The best way to tell how high your suspension is is probably a frame height measurement from the ground to bottom of the frame. Im at 20" frame height exactly in the center of the truck on 35's when they are at 40 psi. Thats pretty low in the crawling world. I have heard of guys at 25" on 40's but thats about the absolute lowest you can go with descent up travel
Click to expand...

I took a center hub to fender measurement and I got a full 3 inches up front running the 3" toytec lift coils and taco 5100's on the second perch. Anything less than a full 3 inches up front would require a 1"BL just so you aren't having to trim so much.

You mentioned installing a locker because the stock spider gears are weak. I've been thinking an aussie locker in the front and rear and yukon 5.29's for sure. Do you think the ausies will prevent the cv's from shearing off?
 
You can run 35's with no lift if you want to. That's how mine is clearanced. When I was mocking everything up I was getting full up travel to the stock bumps with no problems which means I could run them stock if I wanted.
 
ryankmasuda said:
I took a center hub to fender measurement and I got a full 3 inches up front running the 3" toytec lift coils and taco 5100's on the second perch. Anything less than a full 3 inches up front would require a 1"BL just so you aren't having to trim so much.

You mentioned installing a locker because the stock spider gears are weak. I've been thinking an aussie locker in the front and rear and yukon 5.29's for sure. Do you think the ausies will prevent the cv's from shearing off?
Click to expand...

the aussie/lockright will most likely snap more CV joints than an open setup, but as far as shearing the shafts (which i have done before too...), i dont think you will need to worry about that as much. i would carry and extra CV axle assembly with you when wheeling and the proper tools to switch on the trail. its pretty quick after alot of practice...
 
cordrayj1 said:
the aussie/lockright will most likely snap more CV joints than an open setup, but as far as shearing the shafts (which i have done before too...), i dont think you will need to worry about that as much. i would carry and extra CV axle assembly with you when wheeling and the proper tools to switch on the trail. its pretty quick after alot of practice...
Click to expand...

I've got two cv's in my garage that I need to reboot so I'm covered there. I really want a locker but ARB is just so damn expensive. If only money grew on trees!
 
fire931 said:
You can run 35's with no lift if you want to. That's how mine is clearanced. When I was mocking everything up I was getting full up travel to the stock bumps with no problems which means I could run them stock if I wanted.
Click to expand...

Only way to really run 35's or any size on the front of our 4runners. Exactly what I did. :thumb3:
 
Never heard of someone running anything bigger than 35's with IFS on a 4runner, except for Flexinc when he had the drop bracket lift. Thats nuts. Can you post pictures of the 38's? the pictures on the previous page just look like 35's to me... :shrug:
 
sn0wrunner said:
Never heard of someone running anything bigger than 35's with IFS on a 4runner, except for Flexinc when he had the drop bracket lift. Thats nuts. Can you post pictures of the 38's? the pictures on the previous page just look like 35's to me... :shrug:
Click to expand...
Look again, comparing pictures, those definately look like 38's to me. But that is crazy, I agree with you that thats just nuts to run that big of tires on a IFS system.
 
runner38 said:
Mine measures 21 1/2 to bottom of frame with 8psi in my 38 inch boggers.
Click to expand...

Thats pretty low. I need to measure mine at 10 psi and see where it measures up. I would guess 19" aired down. Center of the hub measurements work too, But frame height is easier. No eyeballing the center. Just hold it up and see what it is

Hey how true to size are those 38's. I only ask because my buddy has a set of 38 swampers on his cherocar and they measure exactly 35" at 10 psi. They are worn down some but not totally bald.
 
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