Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

I figured I should probably include mine now,

Although I find it ironic that this list doesn't include what lift setup us on the truck?

I believe stock coils all around, bilstein 5100's on top perch up front, and 2" spring spacer in the rear

What wheels are you running? American Outlaw, I forget the model exactly. 16x8 -0
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Yes, 1.25" front and rear
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? Yes, 2"
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, stock 4.10
 

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I figured I should probably include mine now,

Although I find it ironic that this list doesn't include what lift setup us on the truck?

I believe stock coils all around, bilstein 5100's on top perch up front, and 2" spring spacer in the rear

What wheels are you running? American Outlaw, I forget the model exactly. 16x8 -0
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Yes, 1.25" front and rear
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? Yes, 2"
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, stock 4.10

Another Oregonian. Welcome.
 
I figured I should probably include mine now,

Although I find it ironic that this list doesn't include what lift setup us on the truck?

Looks great! I think that the reason suspension isn't really a factor is that no matter what suspension lift you have, IFS still goes through the same travel and so tubbing and body lift make a difference, but not suspension, so for 35's to fit they have to fit on stock suspension through 4" of lift. But it makes a world of difference how it rides and drives.
 
New guy.

Just put these on and will update once I have more time with them.

What wheels are you running? SCS 16x8 F5's w/ 3.5 BS.
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? No.
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? No.
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No.
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 4.88 Nitro w/rear ARB locker
 

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What wheels are you running? SCS 16x8 F5's w/ 3.5 BS.
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? No.
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Cooper Discoverer STT Pro
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? No.
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No.
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, 4.88 Nitro w/rear ARB locker

Where you hiding that body lift son? Lol. Looks great!
 
Better get ready for some of this:


Here's my PitBull Rocker Radials 35x12.50r17. Pre-tub. I can't wait to get this tubbing over with so I can go wheel the damn thing. They rub everywhere. lol

That's a lot of cutting you got going on man. Hahaha. Well done. I have some work ahead of me. I am trying to come up with a plan that doesn't involve too much down time as this is my DD. But my to-do list is long and interrelated, so it might not be able to be avoided. I only want to do one new alignment. I have the tub job, but I also have new LCA bushings, TC cam tab gussets, and TC spindle gussets. The G setting on my SPC's seems to interfere with the shock tower at full droop. ( http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/263747-strut-tower-reinforcement.html )

The plan might be suck it up and pull wheels back towards firewall with a less-than-G setting on SPC, then proceed to work around that new reality. Still sorting it out.


Where you hiding that body lift son? Lol. Looks great!

Right?!? It has a bit more static height in the front than I want to end up with, but I am digging it for now. And at least I am not rubbing things to hell till I get it properly cleared. And thanks for the compliment.
 
I have been running 35's now for about 6 months, just now revisiting this thread.
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes (barely)
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Treadwright Guard Dogs
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Yes, 1.25" front and rear
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, stock 4.30

I have cut my fenders, front and a little in the rear, my rear flares are trimmed out a little bit underneath, I still rub in the rear pretty good but nothing that is of any significance. Firewall chop, removed wiper fluid reservoir, lots of hammering in the wheel wells. Was about a 9-hour initial job to clearance and I have since done a little more as it magically finds other places to rub.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/140899154@N02/45470184382/in/photostream/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1925/45470184382_210c74556f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

My front end sits at about .5" of lift at ride height so to those that say you can't fit a 35" tire without a suspension lift... you don't understand up travel works. Body lifts will clear them easier though. Most everyone probably understands this.

It's slow, its heavy, but it goes just about anywhere and I have not had any CV, Diff or drivetrain issues from wheeling 35's minus my front wheel bearings going bad.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/140899154@N02/44402991122/in/dateposted/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1898/44402991122_7b5db0a069_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Finally got a new build started a couple months ago. Hopefully I’ll keep this one in one piece. New boot goofin on 315/75/16 bfg km3s.
 

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Switching to 35” KM2S. I have a set of trail wheels but will need to run a 1” spacer or more to clear the upper arms and the wheels are only 7.5” wide. Looking at different wheels, ones I liked are 17x9 -12. Anyone running 9” wheels with -12 offset, 4.5” backspacing? Wondering how they fit the wheel wells and if they clear the upper arms. Have limited flares and trying to keep them tucked under. If I had to I could clearance the upper arms to make them fit but wanted to see if I’d run into any other issues before doing that. I also figured I could buy a cheap steel wheel to keep for a spare and see if it fits before dropping cash on wheels.
 
Switching to 35” KM2S. I have a set of trail wheels but will need to run a 1” spacer or more to clear the upper arms and the wheels are only 7.5” wide. Looking at different wheels, ones I liked are 17x9 -12. Anyone running 9” wheels with -12 offset, 4.5” backspacing? Wondering how they fit the wheel wells and if they clear the upper arms. Have limited flares and trying to keep them tucked under. If I had to I could clearance the upper arms to make them fit but wanted to see if I’d run into any other issues before doing that. I also figured I could buy a cheap steel wheel to keep for a spare and see if it fits before dropping cash on wheels.

Might be hard to keep them tucked under the flares and still clear everything. I have 1.25” spacers all around but even without them my tires were outside the flares.
 
I have been running 35's now for about 6 months, just now revisiting this thread.
- Do you rub the frame at full lock? Yes (barely)
- What specific tire size and brand are you running? 315 75 16 Treadwright Guard Dogs
- Do you rub the UCA at full drop? No
- Are you running wheel spacers, if so how big are they? Yes, 1.25" front and rear
- Are you running a body lift, if so how much? No
- Auto or manual, and what R&P gears are you running? Auto, stock 4.30

I have cut my fenders, front and a little in the rear, my rear flares are trimmed out a little bit underneath, I still rub in the rear pretty good but nothing that is of any significance. Firewall chop, removed wiper fluid reservoir, lots of hammering in the wheel wells. Was about a 9-hour initial job to clearance and I have since done a little more as it magically finds other places to rub.

My front end sits at about .5" of lift at ride height so to those that say you can't fit a 35" tire without a suspension lift... you don't understand up travel works. Body lifts will clear them easier though. Most everyone probably understands this.

It's slow, its heavy, but it goes just about anywhere and I have not had any CV, Diff or drivetrain issues from wheeling 35's minus my front wheel bearings going bad.

Are you running aftermarket or OEM uca? Will spacers still be needed to clear 35s if I have a Total Chaos UCA?
 
Are you running aftermarket or OEM uca? Will spacers still be needed to clear 35s if I have a Total Chaos UCA?

Not to versed on the uniball UCA's but I run SPC uppers and run them on the "F" setting. (I believe). Which pushes the tire forward in the wheel well.
 

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