Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

Metal tab missing from stock OEM filter housing

So I've been referring to this thread every year since I started changing my oil on my 2011 SR5. Today while pulling out the filter housing I noticed that the metal tab is gone. It must've rattled loose somewhere during the past 10k miles. There's nothing wrong with the cover, and I changed the filter and put it back together knowing where to line up the filter housing. But it's my understanding that the tab is meant to hold the housing from moving. Even though I doubt it'll ever move or loosen, does anyone know if just the tab can be purchased? I found the metal replacement housing and stock OEM cover part numbers. Hoping to pick up just the metal tab though.
 
This kit made changing oil a breeze, not a drop spilled and the filter drain tube is awesome!


What is the funnel with the tube for?

My new 4R oil change wasn't messy. Having an oily funnel and tube thing doesn't sound like any fun. I was happy when I got rid of the drill driven pump and hoses I used for my MB when I sold the car. Just a mess.
 
What is the funnel with the tube for?

My new 4R oil change wasn't messy. Having an oily funnel and tube thing doesn't sound like any fun. I was happy when I got rid of the drill driven pump and hoses I used for my MB when I sold the car. Just a mess.
The funnel screws into the oil filler so you can pour away and not spill a drop.
The tube goes into the oil filter so you can drain it and again, no mess that most get without
 
C'mon. Anyone know if the little metal tab on the filter housing is something that can be purchased? My is missing (not broken off). Must've fallen off since my last oil change. Thx
 
C'mon. Anyone know if the little metal tab on the filter housing is something that can be purchased? My is missing (not broken off). Must've fallen off since my last oil change. Thx

You don’t need that tab. You torque the oil filter housing to 18 ft-lbs no matter where the tab lines up. The oil filter drain plug gets torqued to 9 ft-lbs.
 
C'mon. Anyone know if the little metal tab on the filter housing is something that can be purchased? My is missing (not broken off). Must've fallen off since my last oil change. Thx

I do not torque that filter cap to 18 ft lbs ... also you have to oil the O ring on the cap ... install the filter cap to a point where the cap is binding then that is it.. if you torque that to 18 ft lbs if will be a problem to remove that cap on the next oil changes . I use the cap socket and I remove all the covers and inspect for all the leaks and drive train fluids ...

strap wrench will break off the metal tab... and crack the plastic fingers...
 
Right, it's that cap o-ring that causes most of the friction/resistance when removing once the cap is broke free, especially considering the amount of land that the o-ring needs to slide against when unscrewing -this is one o-ring you absolutely don't want to consider using twice- so it helps -a little- if it's well lubricated.
 
Good stuff. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see it before I did mine last week.

For some reason, one of the bolts under the drivers side front of the skid plate on mine came off fine, but putting it in I noticed it just spins. So I swamped the bolts and same thing. So either the nut is stripped or my bolt is stripped. I left it out for now.

Wonder if I can get a similar bolt from the Home/Lowes/Depot
 
Good stuff. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see it before I did mine last week.

For some reason, one of the bolts under the drivers side front of the skid plate on mine came off fine, but putting it in I noticed it just spins. So I swamped the bolts and same thing. So either the nut is stripped or my bolt is stripped. I left it out for now.

Wonder if I can get a similar bolt from the Home/Lowes/Depot

Did you try the suspect bolt in another skid plate location? You can also visually determine if the threads are damaged by comparing it to a good one. Most likely the bolt is OK but the nut in the frame was stripped by the dealer. You can probably tap it for a larger bolt diameter size. If you’ve never done this before a good buddy with the tools or mechanic could do it for a small fee.

BTW, Check out this thread for more info:
Front skid plate bolt size?
 
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Did you try the suspect bolt in another skid plate location? You can also visually determine if the threads are damaged by comparing it to a good one. Most likely the bolt is OK but the nut in the frame was stripped by the dealer. You can probably tap it for a larger bolt diameter size. If you’ve never done this before a good buddy with the tools or mechanic could do it for a small fee.

BTW, Check out this thread for more info:
Front skid plate bolt size?

Yah, I put the bolt on the passenger side front of skid late and it was fine. Actually both bolts were fine on that passenger side.

I'll check out that link thanks!
 
Thanks for the post. I just performed my first oil change at 920 miles using OE Toyota synthetic oil and filter. At this mileage, I knew it was overkill, but glad I did:
1. Found that the factory had not installed a drain plug gasket. Wasn’t leaking, but HOW does this happen?!?
2. Found tiny metal shavings in the filter and at bottom of housing. The filters job is to prevent these from circulating, but happy to get it cleaned out.
Wanted to pass along for anyone considering early oil change or for a reason to do it yourself.
 

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Did you try the suspect bolt in another skid plate location? You can also visually determine if the threads are damaged by comparing it to a good one. Most likely the bolt is OK but the nut in the frame was stripped by the dealer. You can probably tap it for a larger bolt diameter size. If you’ve never done this before a good buddy with the tools or mechanic could do it for a small fee.

BTW, Check out this thread for more info:
Front skid plate bolt size?

Just FYI, the "frame" that the skid plate bolts onto that has the nut is actually a replaceable part that is bolted onto the main vehicle frame. Driver side & passenger side each has one. So if they get stripped out and you want to keep it all OEM you can just those parts.
 
on our new vehicles and do the first oil change some metal particles will be in the engine ... then it goes into the oil filter. normal ..
On my new GM vehicles, I do the oil change at 1000 miles... then the Toyota engines have the same particles .
I did my Toyota oil change at 3,000 miles new .. then I inspected all the drive train fluids and greased the drive shafts and slip yokes...
I had to change the rear diff gear oil ... looked dark and had particles in it .. 3 yrs later last nov the gear oil looks like new..rear diff has a 1500mile breakin ..then change the rear diff gear oil ..many on the forums had to do it..
 
First Oil Change 5th gen

...just another voice in the crowd. Mine went smooth and clean. Put a 2' section of vinyl tubing on filter drain valve, straight to waste pan. Used the metal filter cup and taller filter pipe in lieu of OEM plastic cup. Didn't concern myself with metal tab on old cup. Replaced oil pan drain plug with, '
Votex - DP006 Stainless Steel Engine Oil Drain Plug with Neodymium Magnet (M12-1.25) - MADE IN USA' from RocketMan's Amazon site.
Also, as I have on all my oil changes of other vehicles, I pre-filled the filter/cup prior to install. I do this so this is little chance of dry sump first few seconds of re-start. Oil changes now at 5000miles. Synthetic oil- conventional oil, oil is oil and oil gets dirty. Dirty oil is a huge contributing factor to engine wear, so 5000miles is my comfort zone for oil changes. 3500 was my break point for conventional oil. One last item, I bought this 2018 4Runner from a dealership w/21,500miles on it. So who knows if they really did the scheduled maintenance on this prior to sale. I will tell you the oil was black as could be, every bolt I had to bump w/impact, including plastic filter cup.:gun4: The only easy off item was the filter drain plug. All in all, cleaner and easier than expected.
 
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Thanks for this guide! Changing the oil on my 2020 TRD is . Has anyone managed to do a oil filter relocation mod on their 5gen? I can’t seem to find much guidance on it.
 
I have my 2016 4runner .. I change the eng oil 7500 miles .. I do all the work. I change the oil in November 12 months . the Mobil synthetic dexos2 zinc plus 0-20wt .. does not loose oil .. oil looks like new. I drain the engine 45 min.. inspect the filter has no debris ...
I did not go to get free oil changes at Toyota .. many have issues...
I have 1984/1996/2000 GM vehicles still working and no major failures .oil looks great.. I use a pure one or a wix oil filter on my GM vehicles.
I sold my 1983 GM sedan at 375K miles no issues no eng/drive train issue..
 

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