Oil Changes: 2006 vs 2014

[GGeezer]

My "new to me" 4R is a 2014 Trail, 4WD. My daughters is a 2006 Sport, 2WD.

They both have the same engine: 1GR-FE, 4L, V6.

BUT: Mine is spec'd for 0W-20 oil and hers is 5W-30. And I can change mine at 10k miles but hers is 5k miles.

Same engine. Different oil viscosity and change intervals.

What gives? :twitch:

 

[philsey]

My "new to me" 4R is a 2014 Trail, 4WD. My daughters is a 2006 Sport, 2WD.

They both have the same engine: 1GR-FE, 4L, V6.

BUT: Mine is spec'd for 0W-20 oil and hers is 5W-30. And I can change mine at 10k miles but hers is 5k miles.

Same engine. Different oil viscosity and change intervals.

What gives? :twitch:

No, they don't.

 

[Volley]

Not the same engine.

 

[GGeezer]

Not disagreeing. But not understanding either.

Both engines are 1GR-FE, 4L, V6.

What is different?

 

[<<<<]

SOHC vs DOHC totally different engines. Filter locations and types are different. There is a huge difference. I'll take 4th gen oil change over 5th any day though.

 

[philsey]

Google is your friend.

 

[1engineer]

My "new to me" 4R is a 2014 Trail, 4WD. My daughters is a 2006 Sport, 2WD.

They both have the same engine: 1GR-FE, 4L, V6.

BUT: Mine is spec'd for 0W-20 oil and hers is 5W-30. And I can change mine at 10k miles but hers is 5k miles.

Same engine. Different oil viscosity and change intervals.

What gives? :twitch:

You started a thread for this?
From Wiki:

"The 1GR-FE is the 4.0 L (3956 cc) version, designed for longitudinal mounting in RWD and 4WD pickup applications. It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's VVT-i, variable valve timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Service weight, including fluids, is 166 kg (366 lb).

An updated version of this engine features Dual VVT-i, increasing output to 270 hp (201 kW) and 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) on 87 octane and 285 hp (213 kW) and 289 lb·ft (392 N·m) on 91 octane.[citation needed] Inside, the 1GR uses a "taper-squish" combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc.), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are two such passages for each bank for a total of four. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform."

 

[GGeezer]

Sooooo..... What does "1GR-FE" stand for?

 

[philsey]

.......

.......
[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] And to think, he made all those one-liners this morning just to start this.

 

[philsey]

Sooooo..... What does "1GR-FE" stand for?

1 Geezer Refuses Free (search) Engine.

:flipoff:

 

[GGeezer]

So I guess you don't know. What an ass hole

 

[T5RUNNER]

Just to confuse the issue even more, my 2010 calls for 5w30 every 5k in the manual, but Toyota sent out a letter to owners saying we should change to 0w20 every 10k. Literally the exact same engine.

).

An updated version of this engine features Dual VVT-i, increasing output to 270 hp (201 kW) and 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) on 87 octane and 285 hp (213 kW) and 289 lb·ft (392 N·m) on 91 octane.[citation

Sorry to hijack but is this for real? We have enough compression to gain some power from high octane? I have never seen this mentioned before.

 

[philsey]

So I guess you don't know. What an ass hole

You are correct, I don't know. But if I really wanted to know something so easy, I'd find out on my own.
[MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] 's wiki post (which you could have easily gotten) answered your question fully and comprehensively. You did read it, right?

:redbrick:

 

[1engineer]

So I guess you don't know. What an ass hole

You are new here so you get this one warning: Do not call anyone names. Seriously. If you can't debate or discuss properly then just move on.
-mod-

Just to confuse the issue even more, my 2010 calls for 5w30 every 5k in the manual, but Toyota sent out a letter to owners saying we should change to 0w20 every 10k. Literally the exact same engine.


Sorry to hijack but is this for real? We have enough compression to gain some power from high octane? I have never seen this mentioned before.

The manual was wrong in the beginning. They fixed it.

Now for the second part: Theoretically yes, you can gain a few HP from running a higher octane. You need to think what happens and how long it will take. Once you start running a higher octane for awhile, like several tankfuls, your ECU will sense a knock and gradually retard timing to get rid of the knock. This timing change is what gives you a few extra HP, not the additional octane in the fuel. Gasoline, no matter what octane level, has the same potential energy per gallon. The fuel companies like to mislead consumers a bit there but hey, they are just trying to push a more expensive product.

Bottom line is you can eventually gain a few extra HP running the higher octane fuel but... and here's the kicker... as soon as you quit using the higher octane fuel your HP will decrease. So, is it worth it? Can you even feel 5 HP? The answer is no but whatever makes you feel good lol.

 

[sandcrawler]

Just to confuse the issue even more, my 2010 calls for 5w30 every 5k in the manual, but Toyota sent out a letter to owners saying we should change to 0w20 every 10k. Literally the exact same engine.




Sorry to hijack but is this for real? We have enough compression to gain some power from high octane? I have never seen this mentioned before.

that's doesn't sound right. the oil spec for the dual VVTi 1GR-FE has been 0W-20 from the start. the only change Toyota made was to extend the recommended service interval to 10K miles.

 

[1engineer]

that's doesn't sound right. the oil spec for the dual VVTi 1GR-FE has been 0W-20 from the start. the only change Toyota made was to extend the recommended service interval to 10K miles.

The first few thousand or so 5th gen 4Runners had the manual wrong. They sent out a supplemental. Several members here "discussed" this issue back in 2010-2011 lol.

 

[Jetboy]

I collect the drippings from my grill and use that. So far so good. Seems like a 30% pork 70% angus blend works better in cold weather. I do use synthetic (GMO beef) so I can run longer service intervals.

I stick with the oem recommendation, but I'd bet you could run either oil and never find any measurable difference.

 

[T5RUNNER]

Now for the second part: Theoretically yes, you can gain a few HP from running a higher octane. You need to think what happens and how long it will take. Once you start running a higher octane for awhile, like several tankfuls, your ECU will sense a knock and gradually retard timing to get rid of the knock. This timing change is what gives you a few extra HP, not the additional octane in the fuel. Gasoline, no matter what octane level, has the same potential energy per gallon. The fuel companies like to mislead consumers a bit there but hey, they are just trying to push a more expensive product.

Bottom line is you can eventually gain a few extra HP running the higher octane fuel but... and here's the kicker... as soon as you quit using the higher octane fuel your HP will decrease. So, is it worth it? Can you even feel 5 HP? The answer is no but whatever makes you feel good lol.

Yes I understand how it works (and you said it backwards btw, lower octane will retard timing). Every engine I know of that has high enough compression to benefit from higher octane specifically states that in the manual. Like my dads f150 states that it requires 89 to make full power and suggests using that when towing. This is the first I have ever seen that stated for a 4Runner, and it would mean that those who say they see a difference using 91 are not completely full of shit. So I'm just wondering why Toyota would never mention this.

 

[1engineer]

Yes I understand how it works (and you said it backwards btw, lower octane will retard timing). Every engine I know of that has high enough compression to benefit from higher octane specifically states that in the manual. Like my dads f150 states that it requires 89 to make full power and suggests using that when towing. This is the first I have ever seen that stated for a 4Runner, and it would mean that those who say they see a difference using 91 are not completely full of shit. So I'm just wondering why Toyota would never mention this.

It's as simple as "Show me the difference" lol. 11 lb ft is not much and only in certain situations. We have had one guy... one guy... dyno his 4runner. Also you have to run the higher octane for a while, not just a few tanks. Butt dynos never count.