Ol' Ruby build thread

Your rear upper link bolt missing is funny because I’m in the exact same scenario although it’s frame-side. Had a weird noise for months, noticed it Sunday afternoon haha


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I had those oem upper snap controls snap off. Not just one but 2 pasenfer side snapped. So I changed it and about 6 months later my driver side snapped. I went to aftermarket upper control arms because they are pipe tubes which are larger diameter and stronger then the oem ones.



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Looks like a tight fit...
Looking forward to your final welds


Almost there. Still needs the external welds smoothed out

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I had those oem upper snap controls snap off. Not just one but 2 pasenfer side snapped. So I changed it and about 6 months later my driver side snapped. I went to aftermarket upper control arms because they are pipe tubes which are larger diameter and stronger then the oem ones.



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The upper arms need to twist and flex, like torsion bars, which is why they have huge bushings and skinny, solid shafts...

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The upper arms need to twist and flex, like torsion bars, which is why they have huge bushings and skinny, solid shafts...

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The pipe ones still flex. They at least don't snap when I sm driving down the road. As that's not a fun experience. After 2 of them doing it. I really don't have much faith OEM ones. I am seeing if I snap anymore off before I get rid of them on other 4 runners. I only have one eith replaced upper control arms :)

Keep in mind, this is all on road driving too....:/

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OME 883s, SPC upper control arms, Cam eliminator tabs, 285/75/16s, and the front bumper powder coated and mounted up.

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Axle housing for the locker retrofit after getting PC’d as well…

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The bumper looks great!! I am setting up my order for the same version with a few small tweaks.

What are your thoughts on the main body plate bend radius matching up to the wing portions?
I've seen a few that people sand the welds too squared-off for my taste, and I really want to maintain the flow
from one end to the other. Do you think it's achievable without a massive amount of extra work?
 
The bumper looks great!! I am setting up my order for the same version with a few small tweaks.

What are your thoughts on the main body plate bend radius matching up to the wing portions?
I've seen a few that people sand the welds too squared-off for my taste, and I really want to maintain the flow
from one end to the other. Do you think it's achievable without a massive amount of extra work?

Thanks!

I’m not sure I fully understand the question. But a corner radius match would be very difficult I think. But I agree matching the contours and lines of the truck would look awesome.

For me, the grill bar helps smooth things out and visually reference some of the truck’s curves.

My corners were beveled before welding and then ground down to be slightly more rounded than some I’ve seen. But the corner angles are still pretty severe to my eye.

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Thanks for such a quick response and detailed pics!
That corner is one of the main spots I'm going to attempt to round off.
Either tweaking the existing plates, or adding a piece in between the two.
I'll be sure to post my results no matter what it comes out looking like...

My main question was in regards to the transition radius from the top horizontal surface to the vertical face(s).
The center section being bent as one piece, and the wings being welded, seems to lead to small difference in the unity of the 3 main sections.
I may just be horribly over-thinking it and actually need to see one in person - most likely mine when I done messing it up...

Either way, your looks very well crafted and certainly helps seal the deal for me.
 
Thanks for such a quick response and detailed pics!
That corner is one of the main spots I'm going to attempt to round off.
Either tweaking the existing plates, or adding a piece in between the two.
I'll be sure to post my results no matter what it comes out looking like...

My main question was in regards to the transition radius from the top horizontal surface to the vertical face(s).
The center section being bent as one piece, and the wings being welded, seems to lead to small difference in the unity of the 3 main sections.
I may just be horribly over-thinking it and actually need to see one in person - most likely mine when I done messing it up...

Either way, your looks very well crafted and certainly helps seal the deal for me.


I see. I’m happy with the way mine turned out, but yes there’s some potential to get it wrong and end up with mismatched angles. It’s not a very simple bumper to put together.

It’s why I was very close to going with 4xInnovations since it’s pre-welded and just bolts up to the unmodified frame rails.
 
OME 883s, SPC upper control arms, Cam eliminator tabs, 285/75/16s, and the front bumper power coated and mounted up.

b9d4237a71cebbf1a453ce64a2f0d778.jpg


Axle housing for the locker retrofit after getting PC’d as well…

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All I can say is WOW! That is one hell of a rig. That bumper looks killer! I wont lie, I'm a little jealous....
 
Nice work, man!

I think you did as well as you could have all around; looks great.

I too vacillated between Coastal and 4XI and ultimately chose to go 4XI, and also elected a grille hoop - it gives me ever so slight visual reference of where my front end is and matches the lines & curves of the truck.

Out of curiosity, what positions did you set your Cam Eliminators and SPCs ?



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Coolant flush. Got the weird mix of green and pink out, pushed 13 gallons of distilled water through the system, replaced with Toyota Red and 50/50 distilled water.

Started looking like this:

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Finally looked like this:
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Adding genuine Toyota Red mixed with 50/50 distilled water:

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Did you pick up the Toyota Red locally? Mind if ask what you paid?
Here, my local is selling for $31. They were $20 pre pandemic.
 
Yeah about $30/gallon of the concentrate
Evidently the price has increased since I last did mine (2018). I have the full strength red in mine as well but I'm contemplating on using the prediluted stuff next time.

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Photos from last week.

The truck did amazingly well. Was fun punching above my weight and hanging with some built Jeeps that were locked on 37s. The skid plates saw some action and my lower link decided to disconnect my rear sway bar for me lol. But no real issues and no real damage. But definitely pushed the truck (and my driving skills) to the limit.

Fins n Things, Hell’s Revenge (including Seatbelt Checker and The Staircase), Top of the World, Seven Mile Rim (including Wipeout Hill), Klondike Bluffs, Baby Steps, Copper Ridge, Tower Arch, Eye of the Whale, and various others, on 33s and open diffs (haven’t swapped in the locker yet..)

Campsite:
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Klondike Bluffs exit via Baby Steps:
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Hell’s Revenge at The Staircase:
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Sevenmile Rim at Wipeout Hill:
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Group shot:
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Campsite:
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Top of the World, Gatekeeper:
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Skids did their job:
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Top of the World:
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Campsite:
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Great Sand Dunes:
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Haven’t posted in a while.

A lot is planned for this winter. I’m just about ready to send the diffs out to ECGS for regearing, and about ready to do the rear axle seals, etc. After the rear is done, I’ll work on the front end.

The donor 4.30 diffs/housings cleaned up very nicely. When I’m done with the swap, I’ll have my complete 4.10 set up for sale.

Here’s everything thats happening:

- 5.29 gears
- rear factory e locker
- front Eaton e locker
- tundra brakes
- bearings and seals (front and rear)
- solo Motorsport LCAs
- new OEM LBJs and bolts
- spindle gussets
- strut tower reinforcements
- outboard shock relocation
- 80 series wheels (16x8)
- 315/75/16 BFG KM3s

Trimming/tubbing should be pretty minimal since I have a 1” body lift and the solo LCAs push the ball joint forward 1”. I’ll likely have to cut/trim a lot of the inner part of my fender flares, and possibly hammer back a little bit of the firewall.

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