OMG - Estimate for Repairs

OK, I think I have gone all the way from "WTF - Are you kidding me?" to "OK, I can handle this...calm down!"
I'm going to pay the diagnostic fee and pick it up later this afternoon.
I'm glad to know nothing is going to blow up on me...

Now, the service adviser did say that the front passenger caliper is 'completely seized.' If it was completely seized, wouldn't I have like really, really poor stopping power and a hard pull to the left when I apply the brakes because it's seized and not working at all?

I guess it's time to invest in the big floor jack and jack stands...I can do this.

Thank you all for your advice. I truly appreciate the help!
 
A ploy

Seems to me like they are trying to push you into trading it in for a new one. I've done all these repairs myself (except for the alignment and the cam seals) and I am no mechanic believe me.

Parts are cheap on rockauto.com - you should browse their site to see how much their parts are. I have saved hundreds over the years replacing my own exhaust pipes (including cats) and brakes.

Remember the timing belt breaking will not destroy your 5VZFE engine (since it is non-interference) so don't let them scare you.
 
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dmauldin said:
OK, I think I have gone all the way from "WTF - Are you kidding me?" to "OK, I can handle this...calm down!"
I'm going to pay the diagnostic fee and pick it up later this afternoon.
I'm glad to know nothing is going to blow up on me...

Now, the service adviser did say that the front passenger caliper is 'completely seized.' If it was completely seized, wouldn't I have like really, really poor stopping power and a hard pull to the left when I apply the brakes because it's seized and not working at all?

I guess it's time to invest in the big floor jack and jack stands...I can do this.

Thank you all for your advice. I truly appreciate the help!
Click to expand...

Yup, if your caliper stopped working your 4Runner would be all over the place when braking.

Home Depot had a great deal on a Husky floor jack and stands a while back, I picked a 3 ton set up for $55. It works great and was much better that the more expensive Harbor Freight jack and stands. Just a thought if you can't find anything cheap but decent quality.

Also, there's nothing wrong about having a shop work on your vehicle. We just don't want to see you get gouged by the dealer!
 
The prices are typical for a dealer; you'll save hundreds on the (OEM)parts by buying them yourself. Dealer labor is usually sky-high, no surprises here.
The main thing is to verify that all the stuff they listed really needs service. That thing with the "brake completely seized" is a red flag; business may be slow for this dealer, and they clearly have no moral qualms about encouraging the customer to pay for unnecessary repairs.
A good independent repair shop will probably save you thousands compared to this dealer.
 
Something that is important to note is that I live in the Government's Republic of California and I have had two 3.4 V-6 Toyotas pass our ultra-strict emissions testing without specified (Toyota OEM) cat's.

I had a 1996 Tacoma that someone stole the cat out of and I sourced a 49 state bolt-in cat, then passed with flying colors. I currently own a 1999 T4R (originally fitted with two cats) and it has had a single cat welded in--it also passed with flying colors.

Any stealership is going to be unreasonably proud of their parts, but not all good parts cost so much money.
 
Picked it up from the dealer. They said the cat was diagnosed strictly from the 0420 code. They said there is no way to test whether the cat is actually bad or if it's the sensor. So, based on a code, they want to do $4,200 cat jobs? Should I replace the front AF sensor first, or go straight to finding bolt-on cat parts?
 
dmauldin said:
That's what I'm worried about...At he same time, for 11k (my cost plus these repairs, I should have a truck that will be in great shape, no?)

I don't have to get this thing inspected until next April. Will driving around with bad cats cause any damage to other parts of the vehicle?
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When I bought my 4runner it had a p420 code. I didn't need to inspected to the following year. I just put a Lucas gas treatment every tabk fill and it clear the code after 10k miles
 
dmauldin said:
I've got the P0420 code - and I've replaced the rear O2 sensor already...

I tried bleeding the brakes with my wife pumping the brakes, but stopped getting flow after a few squirts and didn't want to mess anything up by continuing to try.

With valve covers leaking "badly" is anything bad going to happen in the next couple thousand miles? I don't have any oil on the floor yet...

I guess I can do this, just need to make the time to do it.
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My valve cover was leaking, all I did was tighten the bolts
 
dmauldin said:
Picked it up from the dealer. They said the cat was diagnosed strictly from the 0420 code. They said there is no way to test whether the cat is actually bad or if it's the sensor. So, based on a code, they want to do $4,200 cat jobs? Should I replace the front AF sensor first, or go straight to finding bolt-on cat parts?
Click to expand...
They can test the cat by running a live reading of the sensor and taking temp of cat..https://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0
 
Having worked at a motorcycle dealership for a time I can tell you that at least part of an enormous bill like this is to scare you away since the vehicle is nearly 15 years old (and many dealerships have just a 10 year cut-off) they really just didn't want to work on it.

Which is a shame [for them] because Toyota pickups and SUV's are IMHO some of the easiest (if not at least the most straight-forward and intuitive) vehicles there are to work on.
 
Dude ...... INDEPENDENT JAPANESE VEHICLE mechanic.

Say that out loud 10 times.

BTW when you do talk to a mechanic ask them to use OEM parts on anything engine related (Valve cover, anything spark or fuel related and for the timing belt stuff) except for the CATs and brakes.

My calipers are still fine at 230k miles. You can pick up used ones or buy them online from a reputable scrap yard. Then order the Brembo slotted rotors (factory size not Tundra) and performance pads. Have this independent mechanic install them or DIY.

The CATS ..... SEARCH this site. Use the link in my signature. You can buy after market CATS for ~ $150 each that are legit even in California.

Again, don't go back to the dealer. One option is for you to go to the local section of this site and post a thread asking if anyone knows a good mechanic. Or make a new thread and call it "3rd Gen Help - Does Anyone know a Decent Toyota Shop in the XXXXX area"?
 
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whereiswill said:
Having worked at a motorcycle dealership for a time I can tell you that at least part of an enormous bill like this is to scare you away since the vehicle is nearly 15 years old (and many dealerships have just a 10 year cut-off) they really just didn't want to work on it.

Which is a shame [for them] because Toyota pickups and SUV's are IMHO some of the easiest (if not at least the most straight-forward and intuitive) vehicles there are to work on.
Click to expand...

That's probably very true. Did they go on and on about the trade in value and how great the brand new 2015 model 4Runners are? I bet they would have bought your 4Runner on the cheap and then turn it around and sold at a profit! They would do that all the time when I ever pulled up in my wife's 2007 Corolla (R.I.P.) but NEVER when I pulled up in my 91 Pickup. It was kinda funny since it had no value to them.
 
gamefreakgc said:
That's probably very true. Did they go on and on about the trade in value and how great the brand new 2015 model 4Runners are? I bet they would have bought your 4Runner on the cheap and then turn it around and sold at a profit! They would do that all the time when I ever pulled up in my wife's 2007 Corolla (R.I.P.) but NEVER when I pulled up in my 91 Pickup. It was kinda funny since it had no value to them.
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Not at all... I have purchased 2010 & 2014 4Runners & a 2013 Highlander from them. I don't think they were trying anything funny. I just think they see P0420 codes and Toyota says to replace the cats.

Now, thanks to a great resource like this one, I'm saving almost $4k...

Is this a 100% bolt-on job?

What do those skinny, bent 'arms' do? Do they need to be tack-welded?
 
Bent arms go in to the rubber exhaust hangers. Should be a complete bolt on job. Otherwise an exhaust shop could knock this out for you for pretty cheap.
 
cashmoney said:
Bent arms go in to the rubber exhaust hangers. Should be a complete bolt on job. Otherwise an exhaust shop could knock this out for you for pretty cheap.
Click to expand...

Plus if you're concerned about cat theft (happens a lot over here) the exhaust shop can have the cats welded on so it's a lot harder to take off.
 
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