Options for replacing a/c tensioner pulley?

MillerPKA

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With the heat kicking up here in San Diego I'm reminded of me no having A/C. A few months back when I was installing the supercharger, the A/C belt tensioner bolt twisted and got lodged in the assembly. Instead of stopping installation to worry about it I just cut the belt and continued on.

I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to get the bolt out at all. Is it possible to remove and replace the tensioner assembly without removing the compressor? Thanks guys!
 
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Looks like you don't have to take the compressor off to change the bolt??
 

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From the pics posted above it doesn't look like the bracket can be removed without removing the compressor. PITA but it's doable. I had to pull mine to get to the timing belt tensioner bolts. Make sure to have a 14mm ratcheting wrench and a stubby 14mm ratcheting wrench.

I would check first and see if you can just replace the pulley as that would be the easiest for sure.
 
I'm still confused as to how your tensioner bolt is stuck and where? Can it be cut off? Is it the long adjusting bolt holding the pulley bolt? I had that happen to me so I just drilled out the old bolt and re-tapped the threads then got a new stainless bolt.

The pulley you can replace entirely ($30 on RockAuto), or if you have the older design, can just replace the bearing.
 
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The bolt (90099-04306) is stuck in the head of the bolt (part of 88440B pulley asy)..

Take the nut off the front of the pulley to free it up, then the (90099-04306) bolt will have to be taken out, (heat it up) or (try to break the bolt). You would have to buy a new bolt (90099-04306) and pulley asy (88440B).
 
You don't have to take the bracket out to get the bolt out if you can loosen the nut holding the pulley on. Dealer wanted something like $60 for the pulley! I bought a gates and it was about $10.

If you have to remove the bracket, time to get some swivel sockets. That saved me when I replaced my timing belt tensioner. I used a swivel socket and a couple of long extensions to get the bracket out. For the compressor, I just used gear wrenches.
 
Thanks for the diagram, confirmed I just need to wait for the penetrating oil to work. I am in the process of completing exactly what Nobb said; just trying to remove the part the bearing sits on.
 
The bearing is 6203. If you plan to replace just the bearing, stay AWAY form Chinese cheap bearings. NSK or KOYO is about $10 shipped. Easy to swap too.
 
Re-inserting the bolt?

Has anyone had an issue re-inserting the tensioner bolt the AC bracket? In my 1996 Tacoma, the bolt length is such that I can't put it in with the cross-beam thingy directly below it. There is no room. It's impossible to insert at a straight angle, therefore it won't go in.

It seems crazy to have to unbolt the whole bracket to accomodate this. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

PS - To be clear, this is NOT the bolt that the pulley sits on, but the bolt that provides tension (see 9009-0436 part in the VZN diagram above).
 
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Answering my own inquiry: I was able to solve this by using a different shorter bolt rather that the standard.


Has anyone had an issue re-inserting the tensioner bolt the AC bracket? In my 1996 Tacoma, the bolt length is such that I can't put it in with the cross-beam thingy directly below it. There is no room. It's impossible to insert at a straight angle, therefore it won't go in.

It seems crazy to have to unbolt the whole bracket to accomodate this. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

PS - To be clear, this is NOT the bolt that the pulley sits on, but the bolt that provides tension (see 9009-0436 part in the VZN diagram above).
 
ok...been a few years...I replaced it and about everything that moves when i did my last timing belt...well I did not change the compressor...but I sure dont remeber having to move it to change the idler pulley
 
It took me 2 weeks to ac pully idler out. I had to take the bolt out in pieces. Was seized for never being moved as all my belts were 20 years old including my timing belt. I did it without removing the ac compressor or the bracket. However I was doing the timing belt at the same time so my radiator was out if the way.

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Did you ever get this figured out? My AC has been squealing intermittently, but with increasing frequency and I think it's the tensioner bearing.
 
[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION], I had no problems changing idler with everything in it's place on a rust free assembly, if your dealing with rusty dirty threads on adjuster could change things, was easy job.
 
Took me a week to get the snapped tensor bolt out. My 97 5 speed belts were never adjusted and my bolt snapped off and come out in pieces. I had to soak and work the assembly for days. When I did get it apart I had to replace the bolt, the idler pulley nut. As the idler pully section was rusted too. So these can be a nightmare to get out if they were not kept under grease etc. :(
 
Let's revive an old thread. I broke the head off of the long adjuster bolt on the A/C tensioner today. I already ordered an OEM bolt and tension pulley assembly.

My question is are you able to get the bolt that goes through the bracket and hold the pulley on without pulling the compressor. There seems to be very little room behind it as there is what looks like a wiring harness the contours to the front of the oil pan. It looks like there may be room at the top of the slot though.

I may not need to replace this but it would make it easier to get the broken bolt out and it comes along with the new pulley anyway. Thanks
 
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