rallypoint_1
Member
That garage is at your house??? Wow!! Beats working in the driveway. Your all set for the engine swap.
Overheated due to leaking radiator, getting misfires after installing new radiator
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
A fuel line. Thanks. I'll loosen it carefully. 
Yeah, I've been procrastinating on the tranny for sure. It kept going into limp mode which is why I took it apart to begin with. No obvious sign as to why it did so. I checked all the clutch packs, they are within norms. Plan to redo all the seals, but I'm unsure if that will take care of it. Might just get another tranny, although it needs to be for the 4.6is, which are hard to come by.
Yes, the shop/garage is at my house, well, 200 feet away that is.
Yeah, I've been procrastinating on the tranny for sure. It kept going into limp mode which is why I took it apart to begin with. No obvious sign as to why it did so. I checked all the clutch packs, they are within norms. Plan to redo all the seals, but I'm unsure if that will take care of it. Might just get another tranny, although it needs to be for the 4.6is, which are hard to come by.
Yes, the shop/garage is at my house, well, 200 feet away that is.
Hope you didn't forget to do the coolant crossover tube on that bimmer engine while it's out
Nope, I took care of that. Also rebuilt the VANOS units while I was at it. In case you're interested, here's my thread on that project:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums...-4-6-engine-trans-fix-oil-leaks-once-all.html
Thanks. The view from the house isn't too bad either. Got 20 acres with a river as my property line on the lower part.
I got a JDM engine on the way from Clifton, NJ. (JDM Engine Zone NOT Depot) It should be here tomorrow or Wednesday since I'm pretty close. $835 with shipping ($675 + $160). Spoke to them on the phone and got a pretty positive vibe, as I see others have here on the forum.
I checked a couple of local junk yards and they were all around $1,500 plus $800 core. The best one had 185k on in. Screw that, I'd rather go through the trouble of stripping down the JDM to the long block and move everything over from the current engine.
I have read some of the other engine swap threads and with the JDMs, it seems that in addition to the external accessories and brackets, you have to also swap the following:
Exhaust Manifolds
Oil Pan
Injectors
Sensors
And possibly relocate the oil filter. I'll probably also reuse my current TB.
Time to look around for a gasket kit, timing belt kit and water pump I suppose. Is going OEM worth the extra $$$ or would a "SealingTek" kit like this be ok?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-Toyot...ash=item2a4cb47456:g:xHwAAOSwBahU7Bf4&vxp=mtr
I got a JDM engine on the way from Clifton, NJ. (JDM Engine Zone NOT Depot) It should be here tomorrow or Wednesday since I'm pretty close. $835 with shipping ($675 + $160). Spoke to them on the phone and got a pretty positive vibe, as I see others have here on the forum.
I checked a couple of local junk yards and they were all around $1,500 plus $800 core. The best one had 185k on in. Screw that, I'd rather go through the trouble of stripping down the JDM to the long block and move everything over from the current engine.
I have read some of the other engine swap threads and with the JDMs, it seems that in addition to the external accessories and brackets, you have to also swap the following:
Exhaust Manifolds
Oil Pan
Injectors
Sensors
And possibly relocate the oil filter. I'll probably also reuse my current TB.
Time to look around for a gasket kit, timing belt kit and water pump I suppose. Is going OEM worth the extra $$$ or would a "SealingTek" kit like this be ok?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-04-Toyot...ash=item2a4cb47456:g:xHwAAOSwBahU7Bf4&vxp=mtr
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ltsr
New member
Go with OEM is my vote here. You're doing all of that work. It wouldn't risk it by going aftermarket unless someone in here chimes in and can testify for another superior product.
I see you have an interest in MR2s in the spyder flavor. I had a few MK1s a long time ago. Nice garage and view!
I see you have an interest in MR2s in the spyder flavor. I had a few MK1s a long time ago. Nice garage and view!
Thanks. Yeah, I'm definitely leaning OEM. Don't want to have to redo anything if I can help it.
My friend and neighbor is in the process of building a garage of his own, so I let him store his cars at my place while the construction mess is going on. Yep, he has a pair of MR2s. He also got this recently. Can you guess what it is? Hint, it has a Toyota 1.8 in it.
My friend and neighbor is in the process of building a garage of his own, so I let him store his cars at my place while the construction mess is going on. Yep, he has a pair of MR2s. He also got this recently. Can you guess what it is? Hint, it has a Toyota 1.8 in it.
Yep!
Sure thing. Being that I have it on a lift, I should be able to take some decent pics from below of the stuff I pull from there.
Spent this evening cleaning up the shop and clearing some bench space for things as I pull them off. Plan to swing by Harbor Freight tomorrow and pick up a 2nd engine stand so that I can have them side by side as I transfer stuff over.
I did the timing belt / water pump / pulleys at 120k back in 2012. Guess I should play it safe and redo those again on the JDM engine even if it supposed only has 50k on it? Not sure if I should pull the valve covers on the JDM? I guess it would not be a bad idea just to check things out and check valve clearances?
as a person at this stage in my life on limited budget, and one that cared about my wifes safety etc I checked fluid levels on nearly every tank of gas esp if she was driving/commuting with it. I suspect that the radiator had been leaking for some time and just never got the love it needed.
Its so much easier and cheaper to do preventive work, or work that is found early.popping the hood and a beer was just something to do in my man cave if I was not fishing, rafting or building houses, but that's my opinion.
but I'm sorry for the problem you are facing now. You have a nice shop and the tools and knowledge to fix this right. sure you can put in a low mile engine and be quick and easy
but if I had that kind of shop at home, the money and time, I think I would do a rebuilt of my own.
maybe your engine is toast ( cracks etc), if not, and again if it was me, Id play with the idea of rebuilding
but that's just me, ive rebuilt bmw, Volvo, mb, triumph, jags, where the others said just replace
I felt "pride ?" learning/rebuilding and most times felt better then just throwing in a used motor and often had a better product, more hp etc.
however if it was a chebby, ford, dodge, audi, vw, honda, corolla, mazda that I was flipping...used is where I went
Its so much easier and cheaper to do preventive work, or work that is found early.popping the hood and a beer was just something to do in my man cave if I was not fishing, rafting or building houses, but that's my opinion.
but I'm sorry for the problem you are facing now. You have a nice shop and the tools and knowledge to fix this right. sure you can put in a low mile engine and be quick and easy
but if I had that kind of shop at home, the money and time, I think I would do a rebuilt of my own.
maybe your engine is toast ( cracks etc), if not, and again if it was me, Id play with the idea of rebuilding
but that's just me, ive rebuilt bmw, Volvo, mb, triumph, jags, where the others said just replace
I felt "pride ?" learning/rebuilding and most times felt better then just throwing in a used motor and often had a better product, more hp etc.
however if it was a chebby, ford, dodge, audi, vw, honda, corolla, mazda that I was flipping...used is where I went
In hindsight, I totally agree that I should have done more preventive maintenance beyond just changing the oil and intake once a year... Next to my duramax truck (also a 2002 and I'm the original owner), the 4Runner has been the most bulletproof / reliable vehicle I have owned.
It just never had an issue and in 8 years of ownership, never left us stranded. The fact that it ran as well as it did at 196k miles on the original plugs, wires, coils, etc, is quite a testament to its toughness. 8 years ago when I got it, I did change all fluids bumper to bumper, but only engine oil since then and the timing belt / water pump / pulleys at 120k as I mentioned.
My wife actually checked the coolant level 3 weeks ago (was not low) and the upper radiator hose was changed about 6 months ago as it looked questionable.
It just never had an issue and in 8 years of ownership, never left us stranded. The fact that it ran as well as it did at 196k miles on the original plugs, wires, coils, etc, is quite a testament to its toughness. 8 years ago when I got it, I did change all fluids bumper to bumper, but only engine oil since then and the timing belt / water pump / pulleys at 120k as I mentioned.
My wife actually checked the coolant level 3 weeks ago (was not low) and the upper radiator hose was changed about 6 months ago as it looked questionable.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yeah seriously (about the guys). Either people know how to work on a car or they don't. I guess I'm more old-fashioned, I fix my own stuff, including computers.
I was going to comment about the JDM parts not fitting but looks like you already figured that out. Those engines are cheaper but more work, so it's a measure of what's more important, time vs money.
For a living I do something completely different than tinker with cars, I'm in the IT department of a telco/service provider, so I enjoy doing something completely different with my time off.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so by the time that JDM motor goes in, it will have been worked over thoroughly. Figured it will probably take a couple of weekends, at least, but it will be done right, I hope.
I have had many bad experiences over the years taking my vehicles to the dealer for work, even while under warranty when new, so I prefer to do all work myself.
I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so by the time that JDM motor goes in, it will have been worked over thoroughly. Figured it will probably take a couple of weekends, at least, but it will be done right, I hope.
I have had many bad experiences over the years taking my vehicles to the dealer for work, even while under warranty when new, so I prefer to do all work myself.
Did you pull any codes? What were the circumstances under which it would go into limp mode? Do you have access to GT1 or ISTA scan tools? I started to read your thread but its TL;DR
It was really strange about the tranny codes. Its been over 2 years, so I don't recall exactly. Don't have access to "real" scan tools unfortunately and the ODBC codes didn't really help me. I still need to measure several clutch packs to see if they are within spec (the ones I did measure so far were).
So I did pick up a Harbor Freight special 1000 lbs stand. Seems solid enough although not quite as stout as my 1250 one, but for $60, I'm not complaining.
Got the intake removed tonight. Took some pics to aid me when putting everything back together and figured I might as well share them as they may help others during the re-assembly process.
So far this has been very smooth sailing, but then I haven't really gotten to any of the "good stuff" yet.
Carrier called me this afternoon, the JDM engine should be arriving tomorrow afternoon.
So I did pick up a Harbor Freight special 1000 lbs stand. Seems solid enough although not quite as stout as my 1250 one, but for $60, I'm not complaining.
Got the intake removed tonight. Took some pics to aid me when putting everything back together and figured I might as well share them as they may help others during the re-assembly process.
So far this has been very smooth sailing, but then I haven't really gotten to any of the "good stuff" yet.
Carrier called me this afternoon, the JDM engine should be arriving tomorrow afternoon.
Inform your wife that Toyota didn't add the temp gauge because they were out of stickers to put there...
If it overheated to the point where it quit running, it's done. Your headgaskets, at the very least, are toast, your heads are likely warped, and the rings probably got hot enough to lose tension.
I'd shop for a used engine out of a wrecked truck. I would not trust rebuilds under $3000...they're not done right with quality parts for the most part.
If it overheated to the point where it quit running, it's done. Your headgaskets, at the very least, are toast, your heads are likely warped, and the rings probably got hot enough to lose tension.
I'd shop for a used engine out of a wrecked truck. I would not trust rebuilds under $3000...they're not done right with quality parts for the most part.
I got a used engine arriving today. Its a JDM, so I'll have to move everything over from the current engine.
I got a 720P USB one on order. I plan to use it on both the old and "new" engine.
