Overheated due to leaking radiator, getting misfires after installing new radiator

[pclausen]

Ended up picking up this Irwin extractor set to deal with the plug:

Put a 1/2" drive 12 point socket over the square end of the extractor, adapted up to 3/4" drive, and then used a 3/4" ratchet and it came right out.

With that out of the way, it was time to replace the main rear seal and move the oil pickup tube over from the old engine.

Bottom of both engines:

Remove the splash plate on the JDM just to get a quick peak. Looks ok. I like how the main caps are all one cast unit!

Rear seal carrier removed and everything cleaned up:

New seal installed in carrier. Looks to be an improved design over the original:

After applying a bead of FIPG sealer in the groove on the carrier, I re-installed it. 71 in-lb torque.

Next up was re-installing the flex-plate. I went with this thread sealer:

61 lb-ft on those bolts, which was a bit of a pain with the engine hanging from chains.

Next up was cleaning the oil pain from the old engine. This was a real pain since there's a V-groove for the FIPG sealer, so it was quite time consuming.

Ran my bead of FIPG sealer:

And torqued the oil pan bolts to 67 in-lb.

Next up will be the valve covers, accessory brackets, and the new water pump / timing belt.

 

[alumarine]

Looking good.
One thing though.

You know that Loctite PST 592 is more for sealing plumbing type fittings right?
Are there coolant passages on the other side?

 

[pclausen]

I believe there is just motor oil on the other side as far as I know. I had that thread sealant laying around (as you can see the tube looks rather old and dirty).

Perhaps I should just just blue Locktite instead, or?

 

[alumarine]

I believe there is just motor oil on the other side as far as I know. I had that thread sealant laying around (as you can see the tube looks rather old and dirty).

Perhaps I should just just blue Locktite instead, or?

When you say oil you're not trying to seal for oil are you?
They're blind holes right?

I'm thinking blue Loctite might be better.

 

[pclausen]

Those 8 holes are drilled all the way through, so I definitely want to use some sort of thread sealer on them. From what I can tell, if the oil level was high enough in the oil pan, the oil would drain out those holes.

 

[alumarine]

Those 8 holes are drilled all the way through, so I definitely want to use some sort of thread sealer on them. From what I can tell, if the oil level was high enough in the oil pan, the oil would drain out those holes.

If that's the case then a sealant like that is good.
Just checking!

On my boat motor I have a couple of bolts that go into coolant passages so I use a sealant there as well.

 

[4runz]

Was the JDM oil pan full of sludge to? Also, is your 4Runner an automatic? Not sure if this true or not but if you have an auto you need to do something with the torque converter?

 

[pclausen]

4runz, no the sludge was not really all that bad in the JDM oil pan. I was expecting it to be after seeing the top of the heads.

Finally had a chance to work on the JDM some yesterday, getting it ready to drop in.

New timing belt, water pump, tensioners, etc installed:

Front covers back on along with my original crank pulley:

Oil cooler and hoses back on:

Old exhaust manifolds and cross-pipe back on along with driver side mount:

Passenger side brackets and mount installed:

Pulled the JDM injectors off the fuel rails, cleaned them and their seats in the intake manifold, and re-inserted them to keep junk out. I plan to use my original injectors, but I'll now have a spare set. (both the JDM and my originals have 2 spray holes in them).

Show from the rear showing the cross-over pipe. Also, my 4Runner is an automatic, and so was the JDM vehicle that engine came out of. Both appear to be spotting identical flexplates/flywheels, so I don't anticipate any issues bolting the torque converter up to the JDM engine.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get a chance to drop it back in.

 

[reelamin]

This is great information and info well shared. Hope you keep it updated all the way and after its installed and used for a while.

My question is...are you keeping track of your time and costs? I for one don't have a parts store to "rent" tools from so for sure I would be buying a lot of one time use tools. I just bought a $65 wrench today to change out a water pump on my Suburban. I just think buying a rebuild...bolting your parts on it and using it would be much less expensive. Plus you get a warranty and a new motor. Factor in the time...wowzer!

 

[pclausen]

I'm not really keeping track of my time, but I know the cost. I'm probably right around $2000 right now between the engine, parts and tools. As for hours, I would guess I'm probably well past the 20 hour mark. But a lot of that time was cleaning up stuff that would not be done if a shop was doing it.

I discovered tonight that using the fan bracket from the JDM engine was a mistake. The off-set is all wrong:

Reason I used the JDM one is that it was much cleaner. So I cleaned up the old one and swapped them out. Much better:

Degreased and cleaned up engine compartment:

What is this pump/motor thing bolted on to my front diff?

JDM engine ready to drop in:

Done. 4 bell housing bolts and as well as the 4 motor mount bolts are all snugged up. It actually went a lot smoother than I anticipated. Took maybe 20 minutes to do by myself.

Now I definitely think I'll have it back on the road by the weekend, assuming I don't run into some unforeseen issues.

 

[alumarine]

Good job so far!

 

[pclausen]

I installed new o-rings and insulators on my original injectors and added just a dab of dielectric grease so that they would pop in easier.

The JDM injectors are the identical model number to what I have:

Another view. The dirty one is the JDM.

Fuel rails and wiring harness installed.

Intake and vacuum hoses done.

And after getting the belts on and filling with fluids:

https://youtu.be/sWM506NBS5k

It got a mean tick going. I'm hoping its something in the valve train that will free itself with a bit of running. It took about 5 seconds of cranking before it fired right up. No codes or anything like that, just hope that ticking/clacking will take care of itself, or this was a whole lot of work for nothing.

 

[pclausen]

So this morning I went for a quick drive and gradually the ticking noise changed and after about 2 minutes, it was completely gone!

Here's what it sounds like now:

https://youtu.be/eqzUAqK6jgs

So I put the front grille and hood back on and tidied up everything.

I'm running a mix of 10W30 synthetic Mobil 1 and 20W50 dino I had sitting around. I plan to change that out for 5W30 synthetic Mobil 1 after a 100 miles or so.

I still have the P1135 code since I ordered the rear O2 sensor by mistake (Denso 234-4261). This is the one that screws in. I ordered the correct one (Denso 234-9002), which should be here in a couple of days. This is the one with the flange on it. Figured I might as well change them both out and keep the old rear as a spare.

I'll report back if any issues develop, but keeping my fingers crossed I'm good to go for at least another 100k at this point. :bounce:

Time to do the LEDs in the dash next so that the gauges a visible at night.

 

[pclausen]

Dash LEDs done.

I went with white and really like the look. Since all 4 bulbs in the AC controls have been burned out for years as well, I figured I might as well do those while I was at it.

Did the key ring and shifter light as well.

Just waiting on the front Air Fuel Ratio Sensor and this project will be done. In the meantime, I think it is probably better not to drive it.

 

[Mutant]

Great post. Thanks

 

[pclausen]

Thanks!

Ok, so I wrapped up this project this afternoon.

New front and rear O2 sensors and fuel filter:

Sure wish there was as shut off valve or something to keep from getting soaked in gas when doing the fuel filter. The tank was full, which I'm sure didn't help.

Since my LBJ's were original with 195K on them, I figured I might as well do them while I was at it.

And with the new O2's, no more codes in the ECU!

Here's "Pearl" all rearing to go for another 200k!

 

[pclausen]

Quick update. Truck has been running great for the past couple of weeks and wife is reporting that mileage seems to have improved quite a bit. Did a 200 mile oil change this past weekend, and the oil coming out looked great.

So today wife reported the check engine light came back on. So I checked, and here's what I found:

I found this excellent thread about P0440. So as far as I can tell, this is completely unrelated to the engine swap.

I cleared the codes and will keep an eye on it to see if they return. Wasn't really planning on getting back up under the truck again anytime soon. But maybe dropping the fuel tank is in my future...

 

[rallypoint_1]

I had codes somewhat similar to yours come up on my 06 Lexus ES 330(Toyota). Ended up being a bad gas cap. You never know.