P0441 code, and can’t pump fuel into tank

DWilliam

Member
Trying to combine my problems into one thread.

2002 threw a p0441 code “evaporative emission incorrect purge flow.” Then I tried to pump gas and it was shutting off every 2 seconds until the gas could drain down the neck.

How can I troubleshoot this before I buy a new charcoal canister? I’m assuming something is blocked somewhere, but I have no idea how the evap system works and where to start troubleshooting it without throwing parts at a problem.
 
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Try this: Type this into the google search

site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ P0441 code, and can not pump fuel into tank


"My isolated P0441 code was fixed with a second-hand purge valve. Resolved immediately and forever. "
 
FYI, if it is a purge valve and you replace it, keep an eye on it for a month or two. I replaced mine maybe a month ago with a brand new piece right from Toyota and just this morning I heard it started to act up and make some super annoying "thwip thwip thwip thwip" at idle that made an even more annoying ticking sound with throttle.
 
Can anyone comment on the process of replacing the purge valve on a 2002?

I have not replaced the purge valve but for a 2002, there also looks to be a VSV in the engine bay that could also be a culprit. I was not able to attach the complete procedure as it would not allow the file size so I added it to my personal drive and linked below. Be forewarned - it's a doozy.

EVAP P0441 procedure.pdf - Google Drive

If you already purchased the purge valve, I believe it sits just on the end of the charcoal canister and that sits right in front of the spare tire under the vehicle. The charcoal cannister is a real fight to get off. There are lots of hose clamps and wire connector that are covered in road grime that do not like to come off. Some needle nose pliers, angled needle nose pliers, and a set of sockets and extensions is a must.
 
I have not replaced the purge valve but for a 2002, there also looks to be a VSV in the engine bay that could also be a culprit. I was not able to attach the complete procedure as it would not allow the file size so I added it to my personal drive and linked below. Be forewarned - it's a doozy.

EVAP P0441 procedure.pdf - Google Drive

If you already purchased the purge valve, I believe it sits just on the end of the charcoal canister and that sits right in front of the spare tire under the vehicle. The charcoal cannister is a real fight to get off. There are lots of hose clamps and wire connector that are covered in road grime that do not like to come off. Some needle nose pliers, angled needle nose pliers, and a set of sockets and extensions is a must.

Thank you. Is the vacuum switching valve on the canister the same thing as the purge valve?
 
I found the VSV under the hood (not on the canister) and now I’m getting confused. It had part number 25860-75230 which I thought was the one on the canister by the spare. It seems like PN 90080-91233 is for the purge valve on the canister.

And then Rock Auto gives me a different OEM PN for the valve on the canister.

Can anyone confirm these PNs for a 2002?
 
I don't have a 02, so Im going on the document that gamefreak posted. Refer to that document for reference.

My search is from a 02 3.4L. I confirmed the numbers from two Toyota parts websites.

The VSV for CCV (vent valve), is part number 90910-12245. The plastic reciever color for the electical plug is colored grey. One of the vacuum hoses from the airbox to the VSV CCV.

The VSV for the Pressure Switching Valve, is part number 0910-12264. This is located on the charcoal canister. The plastic reciever color for the electrical plug should be colored off white.

The VSV for Evap (purge valve), is part number 25860-75230. This is located on the same bracket as the VSV for CCV. The plastic reciever color for the electrical plug should be colored black.
The hose from that valve should go to the metal tubing on top of the plenum and leads to the throttle body area.

The Vapor pressure sensor is part number is 89461-35010. It's located on top of the gas tank. I don't know if it's accessible from the access cover under the drivers side rear seat. You'll need to drop the tank to reach it.
 
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Thank you very much for that. I think I’m going to replace the pressure switching valve (purge solenoid) on the canister first. I did locate the one under the hood and it seemed to be in working order.

I’m not sure if the purge solenoid will solve my problem about the gas pump clicking off every 2 seconds though, but I could be wrong. I’m wondering if the charcoal canister itself is clogged from previous owners topping off. I think a new canister comes with the purge valve so I might be pot committed to just replacing the whole thing.

I could try the fuel overflow valve on the tank, but I have a feeling if I’m dropping the tank for that I should replace more parts. I just had to do a steering rack so I wasn’t planning on having to chase an evap problem.
 
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Thank you very much for that. I think I’m going to replace the pressure switching valve (purge solenoid) on the canister first. I did locate the one under the hood and it seemed to be in working order.

I’m not sure if the purge solenoid will solve my problem about the gas pump clicking off every 2 seconds though, but I could be wrong. I’m wondering if the charcoal canister itself is clogged from previous owners topping off. I think a new canister comes with the purge valve so I might be pot committed to just replacing the whole thing.

I could try the fuel overflow valve on the tank, but I have a feeling if I’m dropping the tank for that I should replace more parts. I just had to do a steering rack so I wasn’t planning on having to chase an evap problem.

I was thinking about that too, the fact that nothing has power when you are pumping the gas so I don't know that a VSV would be an issue - unless it's stuck the other way when it should not be. If the charcoal cannister is clogged up then you are correct, no amount of part swapping will fix the issue.

You could try a junkyard unit. You could also pull all the little VSV's and other doo-dads for cheap that way as well. The new OEM cannisters are pretty expensive. I've had great success with junkyard units over the years. I had a MAF from a Camry on my 4Runner for a long time.
 
I was thinking about that too, the fact that nothing has power when you are pumping the gas so I don't know that a VSV would be an issue - unless it's stuck the other way when it should not be. If the charcoal cannister is clogged up then you are correct, no amount of part swapping will fix the issue.

You could try a junkyard unit. You could also pull all the little VSV's and other doo-dads for cheap that way as well. The new OEM cannisters are pretty expensive. I've had great success with junkyard units over the years. I had a MAF from a Camry on my 4Runner for a long time.

I found a canister on Marketplace for 100 bucks, apparently the dealer replaced it thinking it would solve an evap code but it didn’t and tested normal.

Still open to other suggestions in the mean time if it could possibly be something else like an overflow check valve on the gas tank.
 
I found a canister on Marketplace for 100 bucks, apparently the dealer replaced it thinking it would solve an evap code but it didn’t and tested normal.

Still open to other suggestions in the mean time if it could possibly be something else like an overflow check valve on the gas tank.

That might be a viable option if it can be shown it is new and not someone trying to slip a fast one and sell the old broken part instead.
 
With a P0441 code and the gas filling problems, is it possible it could be the overflow check valve on the tank as well?
 
With a P0441 code and the gas filling problems, is it possible it could be the overflow check valve on the tank as well?

It's very likely that's the culprit if you've already changed the vapor canister.
After I changed the check valve and gasket my stop/start filling issues went away.
If you do the job I also recommend replacing the fuel sending unit gasket as those are prone to crack and leak fuel vapors. While you're at it, replace the fuel pump as well since you're taking the unit out and fuel hoses.
 
Unfortunately there are too many items that could be the issue that causing fill up problems. In your situation you could very well be dealing with 1, no flow from the purge valve. And 2, the block fuel tank venting.

I would crawl under your rig and take things apart to visually make sure nothing is blocked or kinked. Looking good from the outside sometimes doesn't pertain to the inside. You may need to take it apart to do a visual inspection.

The VSV valves seem to be an easy basic solenoid, either off or on. I think those are 12v powered. You could power them off and on and check for flow.

I remember reading another member as they went through this, after an thorough and exhausted troubleshooting with the evap system, is turned out to be that rubber hose going from the filler neck to the tank. It got de-laminated inside the hose causing a 1/3 blockage.
 
It's very likely that's the culprit if you've already changed the vapor canister.
After I changed the check valve and gasket my stop/start filling issues went away.
If you do the job I also recommend replacing the fuel sending unit gasket as those are prone to crack and leak fuel vapors. While you're at
it, replace the fuel pump as well since you're taking the unit out and fuel hoses.

I haven’t changed anything yet, I’m still in the planning and research phase before I dig into it. How was it changing your check valve and gasket? Pretty simple procedure?
 

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