jkeith.w
Official Vendor
shoot me a PM with your paypal email and shipping address and I'll get you in.
Panhard bar question
- Thread starter killzone90
- Start date
shoot me a PM with your paypal email and shipping address and I'll get you in.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
EK Lower Panhard Mount
Simple [emoji1360]
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Simple [emoji1360]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Snowden
New member
Happy Thanksgiving Keith. Are you waiting for the final 3 payments before you put the order in ?
runner4play
New member
No worries Keith I'm more than happy with the original, I'm running 651's extended bumps and 35s, so I would say I have more room than most back there. On the other side the 2" is safe and at least will get me closer to spec which I'm happy about.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
nah man, I wouldn't do that to the rest of you - I'm sure those guys will see the emails post-turkey.
I put in a few extra in case there are stragglers who come into the thread late.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
OK, I promised a few guys that I'd look at 3" after the holiday, so I came in to the shop today to noodle around with the lift brackets.
So; on my truck (OME) there is a 66mm difference between bolt heights at either end of the stock panhard bar.
The 2" bracket is 15mm short of true level, BUT is on the ragged edge of crossmember contact at full driver's rear compression with stock bumpstops, according to AssBurns 'field research'.
Currently there is 140mm from axle to outboard bumpstop, but only 120mm from panhard lift bracket to crossmember. HOWEVER: the factory coil spring bumpstops (for symmetrical compression) are 80mm from the lower coil spring mount.
So, there is probably no way that the 2" PLB will contact the crossmember on symmetrical (flat) compression with the factory coil bumpstops, and will only have a slight interference at full stuff on driver's rear with stock outboard bump stops. If we find we need extensions for the outboard bumpstops, I'll have some made up.
So, so far so good for OME lifts (2.5") and factory bumps with the 2" PLB.
Now, for the 3" variant that has been requested: we can extend the height of this design and add a reinforcement plate for notching the crossmember (notch the crossmember in conjunction with a taller PLB*), or we can look at a passenger side drop for that extra inch.
Preferences?
* - of course, if you run bump stop spacers on the outboard bump stops, a 3" PLB may not be an issue, but I'm wondering why limiting the up-travel with a bump stop spacer would be desirable...?
Please discuss.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So; on my truck (OME) there is a 66mm difference between bolt heights at either end of the stock panhard bar.
The 2" bracket is 15mm short of true level, BUT is on the ragged edge of crossmember contact at full driver's rear compression with stock bumpstops, according to AssBurns 'field research'.
Currently there is 140mm from axle to outboard bumpstop, but only 120mm from panhard lift bracket to crossmember. HOWEVER: the factory coil spring bumpstops (for symmetrical compression) are 80mm from the lower coil spring mount.
So, there is probably no way that the 2" PLB will contact the crossmember on symmetrical (flat) compression with the factory coil bumpstops, and will only have a slight interference at full stuff on driver's rear with stock outboard bump stops. If we find we need extensions for the outboard bumpstops, I'll have some made up.
So, so far so good for OME lifts (2.5") and factory bumps with the 2" PLB.
Now, for the 3" variant that has been requested: we can extend the height of this design and add a reinforcement plate for notching the crossmember (notch the crossmember in conjunction with a taller PLB*), or we can look at a passenger side drop for that extra inch.
Preferences?
* - of course, if you run bump stop spacers on the outboard bump stops, a 3" PLB may not be an issue, but I'm wondering why limiting the up-travel with a bump stop spacer would be desirable...?
Please discuss.
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Snowden
New member
You ARE the man Keith! Since I'm new to all this I will see and defer to what others have to say... I would think in conjunction with a drop bracket but this is most likely because I am having trouble invisioning this plate you describe.
But this is me for now...
opcorn:
But this is me for now...
opcorn:
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I don't have a clear understanding of why the bumpstops are spaced with several of the common kits - is it just for driveshaft/tank interference? Shock bottoming?
I'm inclined to NOT design to a reduced-travel setup (meaning go with a panhard mount drop on passenger side) but I may be missing something.
In any event, once we flesh this out, I'll draw up the appropriate part for our 3" comrades.
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I'm inclined to NOT design to a reduced-travel setup (meaning go with a panhard mount drop on passenger side) but I may be missing something.
In any event, once we flesh this out, I'll draw up the appropriate part for our 3" comrades.
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Rockdawg84
New member
I believe that the bump stops are used to limit the up travel and keep the tires out of the fender well. Personally I would rather clearance the finder than lose the up travel. I am running 8 wraps in the rear and have about 4.5" of lift. I am happy to have a 2" PLB and will balance with a 2" PDB. Should work really well. Thanks for a great looking and I'm sure working product.
Snowden
New member
Tank skid contact
On topic. So I finally got around to hanging my new longer sway bar end links this afternoon. Check out what I discovered at the rear inside corner directly next to the universal joint...
Yup that is torn pealed back metal..... What is strange is I could not find any trauma on the universal joint or the driveshaft. Any thoughts from the experts...?
On topic. So I finally got around to hanging my new longer sway bar end links this afternoon. Check out what I discovered at the rear inside corner directly next to the universal joint...
Yup that is torn pealed back metal..... What is strange is I could not find any trauma on the universal joint or the driveshaft. Any thoughts from the experts...?
Attachments
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mtbtim
Elite Member
That is bizarre. The driveshaft shouldn't come close to hitting the skid for the gas tank unless the rear end has got abnormal movement side to side which I imagine you would feel big time. My educated guess is a piece of road debris kicked up into the driveshaft and then the driveshaft smashed it into the gas tank skid.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
shoot me a PM with your email address for paypal and your shipping address!
hounddogman
New member
Pretty normal when you flex it off road with longer then stock shocks . Grind it off or beat it flat or it will continue to hit worse and worse . Bet you your grease zert is gone !
JayRolla
New member
This is completely normal running more that 3.5" rear coils. The rear will flex the driveshaft into the gas tank. It's more prominent when not running rear sway bar. If you don't cap the rear driveshaft zerk it will sheer off. Notching the gas tank skid works pretty well.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I never knew the rear end could move that much side to side. It can obviously articulate up and down and the amount is dependent on your suspension choice and whether the rear sway bar was connected but that much side to side movement is a surprise to me.
Recently, I was helping [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] pull his rear slip yoke to lubricate it better to get rid of the slip yoke binding clunk he was experiencing and I noticed his zerk fitting was broken off. I figured he dragged the driveshaft across some rocks but now I'm thinking he might have just flexed his rear end enough for the driveshaft to come in contact with the fuel tank skid.
This is why I love this forum. Always learning something.
