mtbtim
Elite Member
So there's a plug you can buy for the zerk fitting hole?
Panhard bar question
- Thread starter killzone90
- Start date
So there's a plug you can buy for the zerk fitting hole?
JayRolla
New member
I believe I have a 6mm Allen button bolt. You can get it at any hardware store.
Snowden
New member
Thanks guys. Well I'll be glad when I get the eimkeith PLB installed which will hopefully help contribute to a straighter running axle to get it away from the tank and back to near inline where it belongs. I am also planning to get the SS adjustable Panhard bar.
The basic facts at this moment. I'm running the OME 890 3" lift springs. With sway bar (now with extended end links as of today) connected. I'll crawl under Snowden tomorrow and check the status of the zerk. I neglected to check for that today as I was just sort of blown away with the skid discovery. One other curious thing is; when looking at the rear wheels they both seem to measure equal distance under the fender wells. I would have thought the driver rear would protrude out the left side slightly further.
:smow:
The basic facts at this moment. I'm running the OME 890 3" lift springs. With sway bar (now with extended end links as of today) connected. I'll crawl under Snowden tomorrow and check the status of the zerk. I neglected to check for that today as I was just sort of blown away with the skid discovery. One other curious thing is; when looking at the rear wheels they both seem to measure equal distance under the fender wells. I would have thought the driver rear would protrude out the left side slightly further.
:smow:
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Hey Ash,
With a lift in the rear, the rear axle will want to pull to the passenger side, not the driver side. As the panhard bar rises up, it will drag the rear end to the right side (passenger side).
When I helped [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] with his adjustable panhard bar install, we used a level resting against the fender flare going down to the tire and then used a tape measure to check the distance from the frame to the level.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Thanks, we'll need to get one for [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION].
Snowden
New member
Thanks [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] Tim. Okay I couldn't wait until morning. Fortunately she's a garage queen so I just crawled under there and confirmed. The DS is angling just as you state, to pax side. Don't know why my mind had that backwards. But definitely the gas tank and skid are positioned well toward the centerline of the tunnel. A bit weird Toyota did that if they expected these rigs to go off-roading.
:brick:
I also did not see or feel a zerk fitting...
:brick:
I also did not see or feel a zerk fitting...
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sunsetrunner
New member
I have an extra, just went through this same thing. I'll bring it Sunday.
JayRolla
New member
Like stated your axle pushes passenger. Adjusting the bar will move the axle closer to the gas tank not away. I'm very surprised there is that much contact with those coils. Did you have rear sway bar removed at any time?
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Just installed the trac bar drop.
Would you mind getting some dimensions for me when you get a second? Curious as to the bolt center-to-bottom edge of bracket length, since it clears everything during articulation?
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Still need to get your info, sir. (PM me)
MarkamisPrime
New member
Yeah I canso that
I clear everything under articulation
I still have sway bars connected and you can tell that my rear axle is slightly to the right (witch is probably why my driveline clears?)
I also didn't know that you guys remove the stock in coil bump stops, I left those in.
But when I did the flexing test I wasn't on the bump stops yet and nothing hit anywhere or was even close to hitting anything.
That's a two foot little wall/loading dock we built to load dozers onto our low boy trailer.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
I have extra zerk fittings as well. With Sean's truck, there was a little nub still left that I could get a small chisel onto and hit it counter clockwise to remove the broken off zerk. Hopefully you have a nub left too. If not, I think an easy out could get it out easy enough. Hey, I don't own any easy outs. Another excuse to buy more tools.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
I left mine in also; best I can tell they are there to avoid bottoming out when loaded (protect shocks and avoid crossmember contact) and do not interefere (again, from what I can tell) with articulation, so why pull them?
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Here's my first pass at a 3 & 4" PDB (to be used in conjunction with the 2" PLB):
The uppermost hole is for alignment on factory hole. The shape of the spine is such to work with the layered construction of the factory panhard mount.
Should be self-aligning and provide plenty of weld areas..
I'll print it up this evening and refine for fitment during the week as I get time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The uppermost hole is for alignment on factory hole. The shape of the spine is such to work with the layered construction of the factory panhard mount.
Should be self-aligning and provide plenty of weld areas..
I'll print it up this evening and refine for fitment during the week as I get time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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JayRolla
New member
You can remove them to lose some ride height or if adding air bags to the coils.
Snowden
New member
Flex and stuff
+1 my inside coil Stops stayed in. I seem to get great flex (see pic). And my Jeep friends are impressed, unless they just feel sorry for me lol... Yes sway bar was connected I've never run with it off. I do remember hearing something narly loud at Slick Rock last time. Trail maintance (a Stockton wheeling club) was there to move boulders and clean things up on "The Ladder" bcs the section had gotten 'too ugly for passing'. But I was the last guy (and only Toyota that day
) to go up (see pic) before they closed it and began their work. It wasn't a cake walk and my Snowden pulled for sure but I do recall hearing something. Could have been it.
(Flexing at Hollister Hills)
The Ladder at Slick Rock
+1 my inside coil Stops stayed in. I seem to get great flex (see pic). And my Jeep friends are impressed, unless they just feel sorry for me lol... Yes sway bar was connected I've never run with it off. I do remember hearing something narly loud at Slick Rock last time. Trail maintance (a Stockton wheeling club) was there to move boulders and clean things up on "The Ladder" bcs the section had gotten 'too ugly for passing'. But I was the last guy (and only Toyota that day
) to go up (see pic) before they closed it and began their work. It wasn't a cake walk and my Snowden pulled for sure but I do recall hearing something. Could have been it.(Flexing at Hollister Hills)
The Ladder at Slick Rock
Attachments
sunsetrunner
New member
Oops I meant I have an extra M6 allen bolt to replace the Zerk on Sean's truck if he needs it. I sheared my zerk fitting off on the gas tank skid and bought a few internal hex socket caps from home depot. I was able to use a screwdriver to the same effect as your chisel.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Better yet. Well, you can hand him a bolt and I can hand him a zerk fitting when he wants to lube the slip yoke.
But, It's my theory the zerk fitting for the slip yoke does a horrible job of getting grease everywhere it needs to go. It gets grease onto the lower splines of the yoke but doesn't do much in the way of lubricating the upper splines. The best way in my opinion is to pull the slip yoke off, lubricate the shit out of the male and female splines with Ford XG-8 grease (specially designed to diminish slip yoke binding) and put it back together. Just remember before you remove it to make match marks on the yoke and driveshaft and yoke and differential flange to get it back in the right position.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
First shot at the 3&4 PDB:
(goofed the hole position; already revised and reprinting.)
Curious if this is shorter than the commercially available part?
Also need to take a hard look at the flange on the forward side of the bracket to insure that it won't interfere with the parking brake cable or similar..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
(goofed the hole position; already revised and reprinting.)
Curious if this is shorter than the commercially available part?
Also need to take a hard look at the flange on the forward side of the bracket to insure that it won't interfere with the parking brake cable or similar..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MarkamisPrime
New member
First shot at the 3&4 PDB:
(goofed the hole position; already revised and reprinting.)
Curious if this is shorter than the commercially available part?
Also need to take a hard look at the flange on the forward side of the bracket to insure that it won't interfere with the parking brake cable or similar..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks good.
I'll get you that measurement as soon as it lets up raining for a bit.
3 1/2 if you takeout the 1/4 from the top of the bolt head to the middle of the hole.
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