poopypants
New member
I have 8 wraps and my buddy has a forklift I'm gonna see if he'll lift me... But I'm doing my own phl, still gonna be 2" and curved top though. But using Keith's phd.
Panhard bar question
- Thread starter killzone90
- Start date
I have 8 wraps and my buddy has a forklift I'm gonna see if he'll lift me... But I'm doing my own phl, still gonna be 2" and curved top though. But using Keith's phd.
AssBurns
New member
You are referring to having both sides fully compressed at full bump, correct? If so, why would coils make any difference? Secondly how would you get a picture of both sides at full stuff with coils still on? I can't think of a way to get full bump without pulling the coils. Maybe I didn't quite get the question though.
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poopypants
New member
Gotta figure he means one then the other... But I could be wrong,
Never gonna have the same compression that pulling both coils presents either, so really, the only clearance test that matters is a fully set up suspension then flexed each side to recreate possible conditions.... Also that flex doesn't even present a straight up and down movement, it arcs. So in the case of the phl on the drivers side, it will shift slightly to the passenger side as it compresses, allowing even more clearance.
AssBurns
New member
I think your right. Still coils shouldn't make any difference unless your looking for droop, but this is still dependent on shocks not necessarily coils. I've actually fully bumped mine while off-roading quite a few times, which is why I was saying it. Granted, all those times I fully bottomed out I was way overloaded with people and camping gear for the speed I was hitting stuff. New taller, softer bumps helped tremendously on those hard hits though. I don't think most people will ever have that issue though.
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JayRolla
New member
I guess I should not worry about the coil. To get the test I'm looking for would be what clearance issues people have with and without lowered bump stops.
AssBurns
New member
If bump stops have been lowered at all, you shouldn't have any issues. Not sure exact measurement differences between Keith's and my PHL bracket but with stock bumps I would touch the bracket on the crossmember. If I had a PHD bracket I may not hit like mrpoopypants was saying, because the angle at full bump pulls your axle over a smidge. I doubt many people would hit both bumps at the same time to worry about that issue though.
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jkeith.w
Official Vendor
our corners should be the same height; mine then angles up to and around the bolt hole (which is at 2" C2C.) - pretty sure I put a 12mm radius around the hole, metal-wise. I figured at flex, the teepee shape would clear (in conjunction with the rise in the crossmember) - even without the stock cones, perhaps.
- or if you've left the stock cones in.
I couldn't find a good reason to pull those - particularly if you run extended bumps - since they don't limit flex. (they do seem to stop the compression/bottoming from being overloaded and hauling a$$ over rough terrain, however...)
poopypants
New member
here's what I'm working on for my lower mount.
Not as pretty as yours Keith, but wanted one that encompassed the stock mount and had a bolt for backup.
Need to drill the second hole and round off the top, but want to apply the drop first and make sure I'll need the full 2 inches I'm planning with this lift.
Mocked up on my rolled/parts runner
Not as pretty as yours Keith, but wanted one that encompassed the stock mount and had a bolt for backup.
Need to drill the second hole and round off the top, but want to apply the drop first and make sure I'll need the full 2 inches I'm planning with this lift.
Mocked up on my rolled/parts runner
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
I'll give ya that! [emoji6]
Wait- a bolt "for backup"? Does that mean it's strictly bolt-on? Or are you going to burn it in too? The bolt "for backup" seems silly if it's getting welded on, so I'm guessing it's just going to be bolt-on. When I read "backup", I was thinking like "if the weld fails" or something. I'm now convinced it meant if you decide you want to remove it.
Being bolt-on definitely has its advantage
I love Keith's design, and I know I'll always have at least a 2" lift on my 4Runner, so being welded on is something I consider a good thing.
Interested in seeing pics of yours all finished up and installed [emoji1360]
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
well, you can still use the factory holes if you want!
poopypants
New member
I meant in case the welds fail.... While unlikely, it's nice to know it's there and holds it into alignment while welding.
And Keith, stock holes are still usable with this design as well
just using the same longer bolt that will go into the top holes.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
That would be a hell of a place for the welds to fail- given the limited force on it.I meant in case the welds fail.... While unlikely, it's nice to know it's there and holds it into alignment while welding.
And Keith, stock holes are still usable with this design as well
well, you can still use the factory holes if you want!
Haha yeah, that's true! Really no downside at all. Can you feel me swingin yet? [emoji23]
AssBurns
New member
There is actually quite a bit of force on those welds. I did the same as what mrpoopypants is saying. Having the bracket encompass the stock bracket already gives more strength than just a butt weld. Plus if there is a bolt going through it all it's almost like having a rosette weld. I still check my bracket after a long run through the rough stuff. You'd be surprised how much stress the panhard actually takes when slamming into a corner.
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poopypants
New member
That's right. Pretty much all side to side forces are split between the sway bar and the panhard. Up and down forces also effect it considerably as it pulls on the drivers side mount. Don't think of it as what keeps the axle centered under the truck, but the truck centered over the axle, that's a lot of weight and forces it can exert.
No way a bolt alone could be enough on a mount like this. Enough surface area of welds should be enough, but a nice tight bolt run though as well will help and at least be a fail safe from losing the panhard action altogether.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Yep; hence the intense contouring of the bracket to the OEM mount. Good penetration on 3/16" plate following those contours should be just fine.
(likely to fold the ends of an aftermarket panhard first)
poopypants
New member
Got back at it tonight right after work finishing up my lift bracket. Still not as nice as the drop i got from Keith, but I'm really happy with the way it turned out. Not bad for two nights of work with an angle grinder and cordless drill.
Lava rocks
New member
Eimkeith , thank u for the lift bracket great product! Also my condolences on the passing of your mom!
SURF RUNNER
Senior Member
Both brackets were received... they look great.
Does anyone have the size/specs on the factory bolt/nut connecting the panhard bar with the original bracket on the passenger side? As mentioned previously (although it may not be necessary), I would like to keep that bolt in as well as have the bracket extension welded in place. Obviously I would need 2 bolts for that side.
Does anyone have the size/specs on the factory bolt/nut connecting the panhard bar with the original bracket on the passenger side? As mentioned previously (although it may not be necessary), I would like to keep that bolt in as well as have the bracket extension welded in place. Obviously I would need 2 bolts for that side.
