poopypants
New member
Correct.
Panhard bar question
- Thread starter killzone90
- Start date
Correct.
poopypants
New member
Got 8 wrap driver, 7.75 wrap passenger(was the set)
Then brand new LC rear Tokico shocks.
Front is Tundra bilstein 5100 with Wheelers 620# Eibach coils(identical to Toytec coils, but made in black for wheelers off-road) on the second perch from the bottom.
Then brand new LC rear Tokico shocks.
Front is Tundra bilstein 5100 with Wheelers 620# Eibach coils(identical to Toytec coils, but made in black for wheelers off-road) on the second perch from the bottom.
AssBurns
New member
Is your drivers side shock fully compressed? That isn't very much up travel considering it looks like you still have over 2" left till you hit bumps. I'm guessing most folks will have a tad more up travel than that, so they would probably rub the skid a bit also. What shocks are you running in the rear?
EDIT: I see you are running the LC Tokicos. Is that all the compression that those provide?
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EDIT: I see you are running the LC Tokicos. Is that all the compression that those provide?
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JayRolla
New member
I run his same setup and I know I have more up travel than his pics even with my lowered bump stops. Guessing he has sway bar connected without longer links and/or no relocation brackets. You really don't know if your maxed till you start to get a tire off the ground.
I'm guessing he can compress almost 2 more inches.
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poopypants
New member
It is a one off custom that I got from a guy who got it off a rolled runner he bought in Vegas....
It's nice, because it's completely bolt on and actually hugs the diff and yoke area pretty tightly and protects the e locker actuator. He provisioned a hole to drain fluid too.... Only problem with the design is the ebrake mounting bolt gets displaced, but works find not bolted in.... I'll soon give it a little spacer bracket to pull it back to the diff a little tighter.
Closest thing in design would be the budbuilt diff skid... But this is a little thicker with more coverage and doesn't bolt INTO the diff.
AssBurns
New member
If you can get another 2" of up travel, how much have you extended your bumps? It seems like you would be less than 1/2" away from stock bumps at that point, so only a 1" extension is all that is necessary.
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JayRolla
New member
3" lowered but my stops are a lot more soft and can compress maybe 2". Just looking at the tire being stuffed I can tell my tires stuff further but that could be just the picture.
I could touch my stock bump stops before lowering them also.
Stock sway bar setup?
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AssBurns
New member
Nice. I actually just looked at your build thread. The bumps look really good
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JayRolla
New member
Expensive. I should have made them. Lol
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Right. I wasn't questioning whether it was centered or not. With your bar in the stock locations, it puts it at a fairly steep angle. That angle makes it so that when you hit bumps- or have a load- it will push your axle over. What I am wondering is, how much? Sounds like that isn't something you care about though.
Yep. My Billy's are the same dimensions, and I'm really disappointed in the up-travel. I want to try the Tokicos(for highway ride), but would have to lower my lower mounts to allow more up-travel if I'm going to keep that long of a shock. It's so close to the tire, I don't think I would have any issues getting hung up on anything- even if I lowered the bottom mounts 2".
JayRolla
New member
Keeping the sway bar in place helps it not move so far. I barely contact the skid at full stuff but still do contact. I guess I can fully flex it out and see how far off the axle pushes. Now I want to know!
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
The sway bar isn't going to overpower the panhard, so that's out of the equation.
I'm also referring to EQUAL compression- not flex. For example- going 75 down the interstate, hit a dip that causes your suspension to compress- say 3". How much does that move your axle over? At 75mph, it could be sketchy. Having a load will show these changes. Having the axle off-center really isn't the concern- it's the fact that it's shifting while your driving. Having the panhard corrected(parallel) virtually eliminates the shifting of the axle.
JayRolla
New member
The sway bar does keep it in place on the trail and on the road. When I didnt have the sway bar I could hit a bump and hear the driveshaft slam the tank. Just going into my driveway.
I have driven it on a 1000 mile round trip hitting every known bump on the highway at 75-85mph and never once felt sketchy. My wife also drove half the trip with zero complaints. Only time I noticed it push over is if I hit a major bump like a speed bump. Good thing the highway does not have speed bumps.
Before my wife would not even drive my 4runner. It was a lot better once I installed the sway bar but still was sketchy hitting bumps. Not so much after the panhard has been adjusted.
But after seeing the clearance of the lift and drop bracket. I might have to buy these if he starts to sell them regularly. I just hate modifying my rig with anything that cant be taken off. I want my rig to go back to stock as easy as possible.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] glad to hear you don't feel the affects of the panhard being at an angle. Just to clarify- this is not my opinion; it's just simple geometry.
The reason the sway bar changed your driveway situation, is because it minimizes rear axle flex. It is there to minimize body roll. Going up a driveway apron- with no RSB- causes the rear to do much of the articulating.
With the RSB attached, it puts more pressure on the front suspension, causing it to absorb more of the articulation. That's why you were hitting the skid with no RSB- your rear axle was allowed to do much more articulation.
The reason the sway bar changed your driveway situation, is because it minimizes rear axle flex. It is there to minimize body roll. Going up a driveway apron- with no RSB- causes the rear to do much of the articulating.
With the RSB attached, it puts more pressure on the front suspension, causing it to absorb more of the articulation. That's why you were hitting the skid with no RSB- your rear axle was allowed to do much more articulation.
AssBurns
New member
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] When driving straight and hitting a bump or dip that compresses both sides equally should not made any difference whether you have a sway bar or not. Also this swaybar does not center the axle at all. It only works to keep the axle parallel with the body.
[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
Keith already drew this up for lift heights so flip the idea around and you'll get your compressed numbers. His drawing is assuming stock rise height with a flat panhard bar. The measurements are in millimeters.
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[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
Keith already drew this up for lift heights so flip the idea around and you'll get your compressed numbers. His drawing is assuming stock rise height with a flat panhard bar. The measurements are in millimeters.
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JayRolla
New member
[MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] When driving straight and hitting a bump or dip that compresses both sides equally should not made any difference whether you have a sway bar or not. Also this swaybar does not center the axle at all. It only works to keep the axle parallel with the body.
[MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION]
Keith already drew this up for lift heights so flip the idea around and you'll get your compressed numbers. His drawing is assuming stock rise height with a flat panhard bar. The measurements are in millimeters.
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Yeah Tyler explained that pretty good.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
Outboard the top mounts...
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Is there room to outboard them while retaining the stock lower mounts? Mostly referring to tire interference. I was assuming both- upper and lower- would have to be redone, but I haven't actually looked at it. I know [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] outboarded his, and I would like to do the same. That said, i think it would be a little silly looking to have stud-mounted shocks outboarded
AssBurns
New member
If your going to go through the trouble of making upper shock mounts, might as well make better lower shock mounts too. There are a few people that have used the 4th gen shocks that use a stud upper and stock lower. Remember a 8" shock mounted inboard will provide more travel than it would when outboarded. It's kinda tough to make the whole outboard thing worth the effort trying to package it all without running into issues. If you do it right it's worth it though.
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